1894 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
279 
the fruit being larger and less highly colored, and the 
flavor not markedly similar, though equally good. The 
tree is very vigorous and productive. This apple can 
hardly be surpassed in beauty. The tree is as yet free 
from the defects of its supposed parent. In keeping 
and shipping qualities, these seedlings of the Fameuse 
are thought fully to equal their original. 
McIntosh Red is a fourth variety bearing decided 
marks of being a seedling of Fameuse. It originated 
on the Upper St. Lawrence River, and was very little 
distributed or known until within the last 10 or 12 
years. The tree is a vigorous and thrifty grower, and 
the fruit, being larger, and richer in color, would 
amply take the place of its decadent parent, were it 
not for the fact that in many localities it is also sub¬ 
ject to spotting and cracking. The beauty and excel¬ 
lence of this apple will, however, cause it to repay any 
reasonable amount of labor in keeping the fruit fair 
by spraying. 
Dyek, or Pomme Royal, is an excellent dessert 
apple of good size and fair productiveness. It is above 
medium in quality, though somewhat too acid for 
some tastes. Roundish, pale yellow, with some 
russet in veins. With care, it keeps into winter, in the 
North. 
Maiden’s Blush.— A widely known market apple, 
with almost every merit as an orchard fruit except 
high dessert quality, in which it ranks with Red 
Astrachan. It is a popular market apple, especially 
in the middle West. 
Fall Harvey is an apple classed as unproductive in 
many places, but grown far North, it is not only 
almost or quite ironclad, but produces large crops semi¬ 
annually. The fruit is full-medium in size, on a 
dwarfish, slow-growing tree. Mild, sub-acid, with 
tender flesh and always fair. Color, greenish-yellow. 
Porter is the great fall market apple of eastern 
Massachusetts, but seems somewhat local, as it is 
rarely found in such perfection elsewhere. It is 
tender and of fine flavor, fine yellow color, fair and 
productive and above medium in size. Though very 
salable, the market is often over-supplied with them 
as their season is short. 
Switzer is an apple imported from Russia by the 
United States De¬ 
partment of Agri¬ 
culture some 20 
years since. The 
tree is a rapid, 
symmetrical 
grower; the fruit 
is large, red and 
round, with the 
fault of dropping 
as soon as ripe. 
It is one of the 
few “Russian” ap¬ 
ples which is not 
quite free from spot and scab, and it seems probable, 
aside from its name, that it is not really of Russian 
origin. It is, however, “ironclad” against cold; and 
the symmetry of the tree, and the beauty and good¬ 
ness of its fruit, make it worth planting for market in 
the cold North, even at the cost of spraying in un¬ 
favorable seasons. 
Red Bietioheimer is a large and handsome striped 
apple, recently imported from Germany, and already 
widely distributed. It is a handsome, upright grower, 
and an early and free bearer of large, handsome and 
good apples, of a season somewhat later than Olden¬ 
burg. I see no fault in it, save its extreme popu¬ 
larity with the codling moth, making it almost im¬ 
possible to find any fruit free from severe damage 
from worms. 
Antonovka. —This seems to be, on the whole, the 
most desirable of the later fall Russian apples for 
culinary use. There is said to be a winter form of it; 
but the variety, which has been widely distributed, 
does not keep much beyond the middle of October. In 
season, it follows the Duchess of Oldenburg; and 
though without high color (being much like Porter in 
this respect), it makes a good succession to Oldenburg 
in market. It is a medium to large conical apple; 
always fair, and of even size ; and as free from the 
ravages of the codling moth as Oldenburg itself. It 
is well worth planting where there is a good market 
for cooking fruit of its season, before winter apples 
are ready for use. t. h. hoskins. 
Grape Grafting —I have had good success in taking 
up grape vines, grafting and replanting. Even when 
two-year vines had started to grow in the spring, I 
have had them make a growth of three to eight feet 
the same season. Grafting on vines where they grow 
should be done very early, before they will bleed, or 
be left until the vines have made shoots a foot long. 
I have been most successful with the latter, but the 
grafts will not make so good a growth as those started 
early, and should have their tips pinched in the fall 
in time to ripen tne wood properly. s. miller. 
WHAT WILL CURE THIS HORSE ? 
TREATMENT FOR A CAPPED HOCK. 
I have a grade French Coach mare, four jears old, that has both of 
her hocks capped. One of them began to swell nearly a year since, 
and in the late summer the other one. I used at once a bottle of a 
spavin cure, and two bottles of another without any abatement of 
the swelling. I am now using tincture of Iodine, but see no material 
change except that the excrescence Is a little softer. A. J. S. 
New Millport, Pa. 
A Box Stall and a Blister. 
We have had considerable experience in reducing 
capped hocks. It is a difficult task, but in nearly 
every case we have finally succeeded. The best results 
have been attained by first putting the animal in a 
box stall, where it cannot possibly injure the hocks by 
kicking against the partition, or by lying on a hard 
floor. Sawdust is the best for the floor, and to keep 
the animal from bruising the hocks against the sides 
of the stall, it should be made sloping so that it can- 
Skction of Zulu Bean. Fig. 81 . 
not get against it. Clip the hair from the enlarged 
portion, and blister with the Star Remedy blister, by 
the use of which we have been able in all instances to 
reduce the enlargement, and in many cases entirely 
remove it. We have also, by the use of this blister, 
been able to cure almost every case of puffed hocks 
that we have had for a long time in our stables. After 
using this blister once, let the inflammation entirely 
subside, rubbing the parts well with the hand, and 
then after a few days, repeat the blister. After the 
effect of the blister has disappeared, continue rub¬ 
bing thoroughly with the hand, and bathe with witch 
hazel to remove all inflammation. If the stall be so 
arranged as to prevent bruising or injury, and the 
case is not one of long standing, we think the 
bunch can be removed, but it is slow, and will re¬ 
quire time. After blistering, if the animal can be 
turned to pasture, the effect will be the better. 
Syracuse, N. Y. smiths & powell co. 
Not Always Curable. 
With some horses, there is a pre-disposition to 
enlargement, in which case a cure would be doubtful. 
When caused by a bruise, which is often done by a 
horse kicking in the stall, a mild blister to act as an 
absorbent will, if applied in time, generally prove 
efficacious. If necessary, repeat and rub well after 
the blister has healed. In cases of long standing 
where there is a formation of bony substance caused 
by repeated bruises, the enlargement on the hock feel¬ 
ing hard to the touch, the above remedy is in some 
cases beneficial; but a complete cure cannot be effected. 
Auburn, N. Y. frank howell. 
Generally Yield to a Blister. 
We have had a considerable number of capped hocks 
among our horses, mostly caused by the animal kick¬ 
ing against a solid partition while en route from the 
old countries or while shipping them to the fairs. We 
have had very good success in taking them off with 
gooi, strong fly blister. Also have succeeded with 
Caustic Balsam blister applied after the soreness gets 
out of the bruise. We have also used successfully 
soft soap and turpentine rubbed in well once a day. 
The only failures we have had were on animals that 
bruised their hocks the second time, or kept bruising 
them before the first enlargement was entirely cured. 
The case referred to is undoubtedly one of this kind, 
and I do not believe can be cured. e. s. akin. 
Manager Elmwood Stock Farm. 
Not XJnsoundness, But an Eye-sore. 
I would continue the use of the tincture of iodine, 
and give it a thorough rubbing with this tincture once 
a day, and give it a hand rubbing twice a day for the 
purpose of reducing the swelling and increasing the 
circulation. The fact that the excrescence is becom¬ 
ing softer under this treatment is a good indication, 
and continuing this treatment will do all for it that 
can be done. These blemishes are not an unsound¬ 
ness, but an eye-sore, and are very hard to get rid of. 
It is almost impossible entirely to remove them. 
Plenty of exercise, good sanitary conditions, and 
thorough treatment, are essential. geo. e. breck. 
Van Buren County, Mich. 
The Cause Must Be Removed. 
The ordinary treatment in a case of capped hocks is 
to use cooling lotions to reduce the fever. Then ap¬ 
ply some stimulant or mild absorbent. Camphor, 
alcohol or iodine are very good. In the case referred 
to, the animal may be constantly hurting the hock, 
either by lying down on the floor or by kicking the 
sides of the stall. If care be taken that the cause or 
aggravation of the trouble is removed, it will un¬ 
doubtedly yield to the above treatment. Should it 
chance to be caused by the system being out of con¬ 
dition, we would give a few doses of Marvin’s Stock 
Food, in accordance with directions. 
Venango County, Pa. miller & sibley. 
A CELLAR FULL OF CELERY. 
I advise planting the red varieties of celery. To 
my notion, it is the best for family use, keeps the 
best, tastes the best, grows the best, and is the best. 
I use the New Rose. Here, at the end of Api;il, we 
are still eating it from our cellar, and find it in ex¬ 
cellent condition, while very little can be found in 
the markets. The great ado about keeping celery 
through the winter, I am sure, has deterred many 
from raising it in the family garden. All I do is to 
pack it away in a box in my cellar, setting the 
bunches in an upright position, the roots resting upon 
the bottom of the box. I have a box of 18 or 20 inches 
in depth, and some two or three feet square. I dig 
the celery as late in the season as I can, leaving it in 
the ground until pretty cold weather ensues, even 
after the frosts of early fall have arrived, and handle 
it very carefully, as the New Rose is very brittle, and 
breaks apart of its own weight, often. This should 
be done only on a dry day when the celery is dry, in 
order to avoid any tendency to rot. Then I carry it 
to the cellar, where I have four or five inches of 
garden soil on the bottom of the box. I pack the 
bunches in a ver¬ 
tical position as 
closely together as 
possible, and leave 
it there until 
wanted for use. 
My cellar is dark 
or p a r t i a 11 y so, 
and it does not 
freeze. When we 
want celery for 
table use, we sim¬ 
ply go down cellar, 
and don’t have to 
wade through any snow banks or worry through any 
frozen soil to get at it. I lose a small portion from 
rot, a few of the outside leaves, but the most of it keeps 
hard and crisp, and that which was not well blanched 
when put in soon gets all right like the rest. This va¬ 
riety is, I think, a little slow and hard to blanch in the 
trench any way, but it more than makes up for all 
this and any other defects it may have, by its superio;’ 
flavor and quality in general. My experience with 
the self-blanching and more easily blanching celeries, 
shows that they are more liable to rust, poorer grow¬ 
ers, and are tougher and more stringy in texture than 
the sorts which blanch slower. This is conspicuously 
true of the White Plume at least. 
This is the time to sow the seed, and hence it is a 
good time to talk over the varieties. The simplicity 
of this plan of packing has, I think, led many to 
place little faith in its efficiency, but, unless the cellar 
is not well adapted to it, or the packing is carelessly 
done, success is certain. Another improvement with 
me the past year, was the use of so-called commercial 
fertilizer. By its use I got a much better growth and 
better texture as well, which is quite as important in 
my judgment. As to starting the plants I find the 
best plan is to sow the seed early in the open ground 
in finely prepared soil, cover the drills with a board 
or some protecting material to prevent the drying or 
baking of the soil until the young plants begin to ap¬ 
pear, when they may be thinned and transplanted into 
other drills. One difficulty from which I have suffered 
materially in buying plants in the past, has been the 
uncertainty of varieties obtained, even when I pur¬ 
chased from the houses considered most reliable. 
This led me to adopt the plan of raising my own 
plants, and, so far, I have not been misled as to the 
seed. Another advantage of the plan is that the 
plants get no check in transplanting as they fre¬ 
quently do with the purchased plants. Then, too, one 
may easily raise plants superior to the average run of 
those in the market, if one really sets out to do it, 
and this will always be found to pay well. This 
vegetable is so wholesome and healthful, that any¬ 
thing we can do to simplify its culture and manage¬ 
ment, or to obtain better results, should be done.- h. h. 
