374 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
June 16 
FLAVOR AND COLOR OF BUTTER. 
DO THEY ALWAYS GO TOGETHER ? 
It Is asserted by some authorities that the natural color of butter Is 
a sure Indication of Its flavor - that natural high color always accom¬ 
panies high flavor and that It Is not possible to make white butter 
that will rank high In flavor I 
We Know That Butter Will Bleach. 
It had never occurred to me that there was any 
relation between the natural color and the flavor of 
butter. A statement was recently made in the agri¬ 
cultural press, that the flavor of butter came from the 
curd or casein it contained ; if this be true, butter con¬ 
taining the most casein will have the highest flavor, 
and casein is a white solid. It is a well-known fact 
that butter will bleach or lose some of its color by 
exposure to the light for a few days, but I know of no 
record of observation on the relative amount of flavor 
in the same sample of butter before and after fading. 
Champaign, Ill. E. u. Farrington. 
No Connection Between Color and Flavor. 
The butter flavor and color are entirely distinct, and 
it is possible to produce high flavor without color. As 
a rule, however, this will not happen since the same 
factors which are commonly required to produce good 
flavor will at the same time give good color. The use 
of artificial cultures of bacteria in ripening, can give 
good flavor without affecting the color. Hence, in 
my opinion, while color and flavor usually go hand in 
hand, they are due to distinct causes and may be 
separated. [prof.] h. w. conn. 
Middletown, Conn. 
The Cow Makes Color ; Man Makes Flavor. 
As color in butter is largely an individual peculiar¬ 
ity of cows, and what the market calls flavor is a 
creation of the butter maker secured through the 
agency of ferments working on the sugar and casein 
of the milk and not the fats, it is hard to see how, 
conditions being similar, the natural color of milk 
has very much to do with the flavor of the butter. If 
it does have, it would be hard to explain how it was 
that the cows at Chicago that naturally gave the 
lowest colored milk and butter, scored the highest on 
flavor, at least until the opponents used an artificial 
starter to cause a more active ferment in the cream, 
and even then gained no superiority. It is urged by 
some that the flavor of May and June butter is far 
superior to that of the winter and fall and that the 
higher flavor is the result of the higher color of the 
butter at the periods named. I hardly think the 
position tenable, from the fact that the action of the 
bacteria of ferment that gives the heightened flavor, 
is, at this season, most perfectly active and in the 
least time completes its work ; while in the fall the 
cows have been longer in lactation, the action of the 
ferments is less pronounced, other bacteria than the 
true ones, have an influence as well, and the flavor is 
“off” to a greater or less extent. In the winter, cream 
that is left unassisted to develop acid as best it may, 
often becomes bitter and never properly ripens, what¬ 
ever its natural color, while that which has been care¬ 
fully handled, and assisted to ripen, continues to carry 
with it a fine, delicate flavor. If natural color carried 
the highest and best flavor, the market would long 
ago have paid its premium for natural color ; but it 
has done nothing of the kind, but kept right on pay¬ 
ing just as much for the artificially as for the naturally 
colored butter. What is more, owners of the finest 
herds in the United States, use butter color to a 
greater or less extent. Good cream may be left so 
long unchurned that the ripeness turns into acidity, 
and from that to the acetic stage. By the time that 
the never-get-there butter maker gets ready to churn, 
both color and flavor have been consumed by the 
destructive ferments of various kinds that have been 
generated and succeeded themselves, until at last the 
resulting butter is both white and of ill flavor ; the 
verdict is, “White butter has no flavor.” I am aware 
of no evidence that goes to show that, if cows are 
properly fed, any difference that might arise in the 
natural color of the milk would cause any difference 
in the flavor of the butter, and more, that the butter 
from a herd of well-fed “scrub” cows if made by an 
expert, is in any way inferior in flavor or quality to 
the butter of the best herd of thoroughbreds, 
JOHN GOULD. 
Largely Caused by Bacterial Action. 
It is now generally recognized that the flavor or 
aroma of butter is largely caused by bacterial action ; 
that by inoculation of cream with pure cultures of the 
aroma producing bacteria, a highly-flavored butter 
may be produced. I see no reason why a cream which 
would naturally make a white butter might not be 
thus inoculated and an aromatic white butter be ob¬ 
tained. I think, however, that as butter is usually 
made, color and flavor go, to some extent, hand in 
hand. I would not state the case as unqualifiedly, how¬ 
ever, as is done in the question. Joseph l. hills 
Vermont Experiment Station. 
From a Creameryman’s Standpoint. 
I cannot agree with the assertion of some authori¬ 
ties that “ the natural color of butter is a sure indica¬ 
tion of its flavor.” It sounds too much like the asser¬ 
tion some make in regard to certain breeds of cows. 
We have often heard people say that they could tell 
Jersey butter by its flavor ; in my opinion, this is all 
egotism. Although I am breeding Guernseys, which 
are acknowledged to excel all others in the high color 
of their product, yet I do not think that has any in¬ 
fluence on the flavor, which. I think, is determined by 
feed, and management in manufacturing the product. 
A L. WALES. 
Has Made Well-Flavored While Butter. 
As a matter of opinion only, as based on recollec¬ 
tion of the scoring of a good many thousand samples 
of butter that I knew were colored, I would say that 
there is absolutely no connection whatever between 
high color and high flavor. Flavor, according to our 
present theories, is largely due to the work of bac¬ 
teria. There is, however, admittedly an element of 
flavor, a certain characteristic quality, given to the 
butter by the individual cow that is appreciable. In 
how far this quality varies with the color, I do not 
know, and my guess may be no nearer right than that 
of any one else. It is rather a difficult matter to in¬ 
vestigate because so indefinite. The flavor is a pure 
matter of taste and cannot be measured. We will try 
to investigate the matter. As to making a highly- 
flavored article of white butter, I am more positive. I 
know that it can be done. During the past winter, 
out of a thousand experimental churnings, the major 
part would have yielded a white product if color had 
not been added; yet we have turned out butter with 
a quick, high, fresh, nutty flavor. Certainly between 
the color and flavor there is no relation of cause and 
effect. CLINTON D SMITH. 
Michigan Agricultural College. 
Some Effects of Food. 
I know of no experiments that have been made to 
determine whether there is a relation between the 
color and flavor of butter. Certainly in the mind of 
the consumer, flavor is associated with a bright golden 
color, or we would have no need for butter color. 
Further, we know that most delicate and desirable 
flavors of butter are usually better developed when 
the cattle are fed on fresh, succulent pasture grass 
and clover, at which time the butter is of the highest 
color. On the other hand, undesirable flavors are 
introduced, irrespective of color by the feeding of 
cabbage, turnips, onions and things of that sort We 
know, too, that highly flavored butter is often made 
when the cows are upon dry feed. h. h. wing. 
Cornell Ex. Station, Prof, of Dairy Husbandry. 
Good Points from Dr. Babcock. 
It is a well established fact that the butter from the 
Guernseys and Jerseys has a higher color than that 
from the Holsteins, Ayrshires and Short-horns. If 
the above question be true, I would expect that the 
Jersey and Guernsey butter would have a higher flavor 
than that from the other breeds mentioned. This, 
however, does not appear to be the case, if we can put 
any dependence upon the scorings which have been 
made at the numerous dairy shows in this country. 
At the American Dairy Show in Chicago in 1889, the 
score upon flavor of the butter from the Snort-horns, 
Ayrshires and Holsteins, was higher than that from 
the Jerseys. At the breed test in Chicago last year, 
the flavor of the Short-horn butter ranked fully as 
high as did that of the Guernsey or Jersey, although 
the butter was naturally of much lighter color. From 
this and other facts, I do not believe that color and 
flavor have any relation to each other, certainly if 
the food and the method of manufacture are the same. 
In most cases where the Jersey and Guernsey butters 
have had a higher score, it has been owing to the 
better texture and grain of the butter and not to 
flavor. S. M. BABCOCK. 
Wisconsin Agrl. Ex. Station. 
What Are Color and Flavor P 
I do not know that there has ever been any investi¬ 
gation throwing light on the subject of the relation 
between the flavor and natural color of butter. Until 
some systematic work is done to investigate the sub¬ 
ject, no one can speak with authority ; and any state¬ 
ment bearing on the subject must be more or less a 
matter of opinion, or guesswork. Undoubtedly, there 
is some ground for supposing that high color and 
flavor go together, but do they always and necessarily? 
When cows are turned out to grass, the butter becomes 
higher in color and flavor, but who can show that this 
is not a mere coincidence, or that the increase of color 
has anything to do with increase of flavor ? In order 
to give a definite answer to the question, we need to 
know, first, what natural butter color is and under 
what conditions it is produced; and, second, what but¬ 
ter flavor is and what conditions affect it. What do we 
know about the natural color of butter ? One chemist 
claims to have separated it and determined its com¬ 
position, but his work has never been confirmed, and 
we really know nothing about the composition of the 
natural coloring matter of butter. The compound or 
compounds that give butter its color, are intimately 
associated with the fat—probably mixed, rather than 
chemically united with, the fat So far as we know, 
none of the several compounds that are contained in 
milk fat or butter fat possesses color other than white, 
so that the color appears to be sonrething not a part of 
the fat itself ; but there is room for investigation 
here. We know that the natural color of butter varies 
with different breeds of cows and with individuals, and 
also with the kind of food eaten. It is claimed, also, 
that the influence of sunlight has something to do with 
the development of color. 
What do we know of butter flavor? I confine the ex¬ 
pression to desirable flavors in butter. No one has yet 
isolated the compound or compounds that give butter 
its flavor or, rather, flavors. Some claim, and with 
some show of reason, that flavor is wholly due to food. 
Others claim that the flavor is wholly due to the ripen¬ 
ing of cream, that is, the growth of certain kinds of 
bacteria. Still others attribute flavor largely to breed. 
The truth probably is that flavor is due to no one 
thing, for it certainly can be itflenced by a variety of 
conditions. The latest investigations incline us to be¬ 
lieve that the condition of ripening of cream is the 
most important and influential condition in determin¬ 
ing flavor. What relation has butter flavor to fat? 
Pure milk fat or butter fat has no flavor. It is highly 
probable that the flavor comes in no way from the 
fat, but more likely from the breaking up of other 
compounds contained in cream or milk. It will thus 
be seen that, while we have some definite knowledge 
about butter color and butter flavor, it is very far 
from being complete upon any single point; and until 
our knowledge covers more ground, we cannot say 
definitely whether there is any intimate and necessary 
connection between natural butter color and flavor. 
New York Ex. Station. L. l. van slyke. 
“Natural White Butter of Good Flavor.” 
Generally speaking, white butter lacks flavor, al¬ 
though I think it possible to make natural white but¬ 
ter of good flavor by ripening the cream properly and 
paying attention to cleanliness and methods of feed¬ 
ing and manufacture. On the other hand, I have seen 
butter of high color that was not of good flavor. It 
is quite possible to take milk from cows that give a 
high-colored product and spoil the flavor of the butter. 
For instance, Jer-ey and Guernsey cows, as a rule, 
have high color in milk, cream and butter, but if 
these cows were fed on turnips, or leeks or any bad 
smelling food, or drank impure water, or the milk or 
cream were left in an impure atmosphere, or the cream 
not properly ripened, or anything else of this nature 
should happen, the color might be all right, but the 
flavor sadly lacking. h. h. dean. 
Ontario Agricultural College. 
HOW THE CREAMERY SHARKS WORK. 
WHAT SHOULD A BUTTER FACTORY COST? 
The R. N.-Y.’s comment on the business of a certain 
Chicago firm which is engaged in promoting (?) the 
dairy interest, brings to mind an experience at States¬ 
ville, N. C. At this place, some Chicago promoters 
established a plant for a butter and cheese factory 
two years ago. A $5,000 plant in a farming com¬ 
munity which has previously not been engaged in 
dairying to any extent, might be expected to receive 
discouragingly small supplies of milk. This has been 
the case. The company made a failure, and turned 
the whole plant over to one of the largest stockhold¬ 
ers, who is operating it with milk from his own and a 
few other herds. In the meantime he is increasing 
his cows as rapidly as possible by raising Jersey 
heifers from a very fine foundation stock. There are 
quite a number of daughters of Prince of Melrose 3d, 
a grandson of Stoke Pegis 3d, in the herd, and these 
are very promising cows. 
Here is an abridged circular issued by the North 
Carolina Station showing what might be done under 
certain conditions: 
For Investigation. 
“Dear Sir.— Below we give you facts and figures 
in regard to the manufacturing of butter and cheese 
by the system we wish to put into operation at your 
town. The following table shows what there is in 
selling milk to this kind of factory. The first column 
gives the number of cows, the second the number of 
gallons per day ; the figures at the top indicate the 
price paid for 100 pounds, and opposite the number of 
gallons, the amount received per month—a gallon of 
milk weight 83^ to 9 pounds. (The table is calcu¬ 
lated from 1 to 10 cows at 23^ gallons of nine pounds, 
as pounds per day and per month, and the values per 
month at $1,25, $1, $.90 and $.80 per 100 pounds of 
milk.) 
“You can readily see by the above what your cow 
