1894 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
537 
Advantag'es of the Practice. 
The practice of dishorninf!;' cattle is quite general ex¬ 
cept when Western range cattle are brought here to 
feed for only a short time. Most of the cattle are dis¬ 
horned with the saw. The horn killer does not give 
good satisfaction. The method I like best is to let 
them keep their horns until they begin to use them, 
and then saw them off. Some of the advantages 
gained are that it takes less stable room. During a 
storm the cattle will all crowd in the shed like so 
many sheep, while if they have their horns, a few of 
the stronger ones would occupy the whole shed and 
the weaker ones be compelled to take the storm. An¬ 
other advantage is that they have an equal chance; 
they grow and fatten more evenly. e. n. c. 
Holdrege, Neb. 
The “ Wonderful” Cow Pea. 
J. H., Tacoma, Wash. —An article in The R. N.-Y. 
soine time ago called attention to whati it termed the 
“ Wonderful pea” and its prolific growth in the South. 
Would it be suited to this country ? 
Ans.—T he Wonderful pea has been long grown in 
the South as the “ Unknown.” It is well that some 
one has at last given it a name. It is one of the large 
class known as field or cow peas. It is a rampant 
grower, making vines 15 to 20 feet long, matting 
over the land in a wonderful mass. Its chief drawback 
is that it is very late, and requires a long season to 
mature its crop. It is, therefore, not adapted to ele¬ 
vated sections or Northern latitudes. On our Southern 
coast plain, it does well, but on the uplands, even in 
this latitude, it is too late. w. f. massey. 
What Are “ The Lieg-uminous Plants” P 
O. Q. O., Vail, N. J. —1. The agricultural papers of 
to-day frequently contain articles about the value of 
leguminous plants as soil enrichers. I would like to 
have a more extended list of their names than I have 
yet seen. Many of the writers start a list and give 
clover, beans, peas, and then usually end with etc. 
Now I would like to know what the etc. is composed 
of. I have seen the names of lentils and lupins also 
added to the above, but I do not know what either of 
these plants is. 2. I am under the impression that all 
plants that bear seed in a pod, may be classed as 
leguminous. Is this correct ? 3. If so, mullein, devil’s 
fiax, turnip, radish, and a great many other common 
plants must be nitrogen traps. Please explain to a 
dumb farmer. 
Ans. —1. The ” etc.” is composed of a very long list. 
Lentil is a species of vetch or tare (Vicia-Ervum). 
Lupine (Lupinus) is a common perennial plant of the 
pea family, found in sandy soils of several Eastern 
States. It will thrive where few other plants will 
grow. 2. A legume, being the usual fruit of the Pea 
or Pulse family, gives us the botanical name Legum- 
inotse. The legume presents many different forms. 
The fiowers of all this family have certain resem¬ 
blances that may easily be recognized. For instance, 
the single pistil which is free and simple is surrounded 
often by 10 stamens which are rarely distinct. The 
pistil, of course, becomes the legume or loment in 
fruit. The fiowers are generally of a butterfiy shape, 
having corollas of five dissimilar petals, as the edible 
pea or bean. Now as the Pulse family contains as 
many as 7,000 species, our friend will not require us to 
name the entire “ etc.” A few of the more important 
are all of the so-called cow peas, of which there are 50 
or more varieties, all of the cultivated beans and peas, 
all of the clovers—Trifolium ; Bush clover, Lespedeza ; 
Vetch—Vicia . sativa ; Peanut, Araehis ; Esparsette 
(Sainfoin) ; Seradella, Melilotus or Sweet clover, Medi- 
cago (Medick). Besides such plants there are many 
trees, shrubs and vines belonging to the Pea family like 
False Indigo, locusts, wistarias, desmodiums, Yellow 
wood, Judas tree and Kentucky coffee tree. 3. It is 
not known that the nodules form on the roots of such 
plants. The nodules are caused by minute forms of 
life which, it is believed, have the power of fixing the 
free nitrogen of the air and thus rendering the roots 
richer in this costly fertilizer. Write to the Depart¬ 
ment of Agriculture at Washington, D. C., for a pam¬ 
phlet entitled. Leguminous Plants for Green Manuring 
and For Feeding. It is sent free. Another good 
pamphlet is Bulletin 98 from the North Carolina 
Station, Raleigh, N. C. Send four cents for postage. 
How May Potato Slight Se Known P 
J. H. R., Smock, Pa.—Can The R. N.-Y. describe 
potato blight so that I may know it from premature 
ripening of the vines ? I have six acres in potatoes. 
The leaves have turned a dark brown around the 
edges, and curled over on top ; part of the field which 
was fertilized in the drill and broadcast, is much the 
worst. We had an unusual rainfall in May, which 
gave the potatoes a grand start. Then, towards the 
middle of June, it became excessively hot with occa¬ 
sional light showers followed by scorching hot sun. 
Toward the later part of June, I noticed that the 
under leaves were turning a yellow color, and there 
was a very rank potato smell as though there was a 
pile of green vines heating near me. At a farmers’ 
institute three years ago, I heard Prof. Hieges say 
that he could detect potato blight by the smell if he 
were to go into a field blindfolded. Nearly all the potato 
fields and patches about here, are affected as described 
above. Occasionally, there is a piece having a green, 
growing look. Is it blight or premature ripening ? 
Ans. —Yes, this is potato blight and no mistake. 
That is a good enough description of it. See answer 
in relation to potato blight on page 473, R. N.-Y. of 
July 28. 
An Artificial Stone Cover for Cistern. 
A. P. A.., Claremont, Va —Can a stone to cover a 
cistern four or five feet across, be made of cement by 
bedding 1-inch or IJ^-inch iron in it, leaving a manhole 
of 18 inches in the middle ? How thick should it be, 
and what proportion of Rosendale cement and sand 
should be used ? I purpose to use four irons, crossing 
each other 18 inches apart. 
Ans. —There will be no difficulty in making a stone 
of this kind to cover a cistern, but as the size is large 
and the weight of the ends would all come on the 
center, it will be advisable to increase the thickness 
to two inches. The best quality of American Rosen¬ 
dale cement has been found to have a tensile strength 
of from 50 to 86 pounds to the square inch at the end 
of seven days after setting, and this strength increased 
gradually up to 250 pounds at the end of nine months. 
The stone might be strengthened by the iron bars 
mentioned, but as the center where the opening will 
be will be the weakest part, it will be advisable to 
strengthen that the most. A ring of half-inch iron 
made with arms extending to the edges of the stone, 
would afford the strength where it is most needed, 
that is, in the part where the tension will be the most. 
But it may be an easy matter to put some support 
under the stone to sustain, not it so much, as any jar 
or weight that might come on it while it was new and 
not fully hardened. The best quality of cement is to 
be used, and twice the quantity of the sharpest and 
cleanest sand to be procured. The stone should be 
made in a mold of smoothly dressed wood, oiled before 
the cement is put in. It should stay in the mold two 
or three weeks, by which time its strength will be 
nearly twice that at the end of seven days. In mixing 
the cement for such a special purpose, it will be neces¬ 
sary to use the greatest care that every particle of it 
is evenly wetted with water, which is used only in 
such quantity as will wet the whole of the cement. It 
will be necessary to mix the whole quantity at once 
and spread it in the mold without making joints, h. s. 
Removing’ Suckers from Corn. 
W. C. N., Amsterdam, N. F—What estimated in¬ 
crease in yield would be obtained by removing suckers 
from corn ? At what time can it safely and profitably 
be done ? 
Ans. —Careful comparative tests have been made, 
with the result that removing suckers did not increase 
the yield at all. If done, the earlier the better. 
Currants, Qooseberries and Plums in Maine. 
M. B. W., East Northport, Me —1. A year ago, I set 
out, to test the variety, 100 plants of Prince Albert 
currant. It is said to be three weeks later than Fay 
or Cherry. My plants fruited this season, and ripened 
several days in advance of both Cherry and Fay. The 
berry and bush agree with the common description of 
it except in this respect; and as its chief value would 
be in its lateness in ripening, and as that character¬ 
istic of it has always been emphasized by growers, 
both of fruit and plants, I do not understand why, 
with me, it should ripen so early. Can The R. N.-Y. 
explain the anomaly ? It was not the earliness of 
soil, for my plants are set in heavy clay soil, remaining 
wet until late in the spring. 2. Can The R. N.-Y. 
speak from experience of the Victoria currant ? How 
does it compare with Prince Albert in productiveness 
and earliness ? 3. Can it recommend any other va¬ 
riety in place of them ? 4. What varieties of goose¬ 
berries would it recommend for market ? I have 
Downing and Industry, about 500 of each, but the mid- 
seasou of the first and liability to mildew of the second, 
lead me to wish for a kind that I can put into the 
market earlier than I can the Downing, and one that 
I may depend upon as not being subject co mildew. 
Would The R. N.-Y. advise planting largely of Colum¬ 
bus and Red Jacket ? What has become of the Car¬ 
man gooseberry ? 5. It is said that from one-half to 
two-thirds of the previous season’s growth of plum 
trees should be cut back each year. Should this cut¬ 
ting back be done in spring or in the fall ? 
Ans. —1. Prince Albert is valued for its lateness and 
extreme productiveness. It is of inferior quality, be¬ 
ing more acid than other kinds. The berry is large, 
light red, occasionally splashed with darker red. We 
cannot say just how much later it is than Fay or 
Cherry ; but it is later. 2. Yes, we have had it for 20 
years in our collection. It is nearly as large as White 
Grape, of a bright red color. The bunches are notably 
long. The bush is an upright grower and as prolific 
as Prince Albert. The Currants ripen just about with 
Prince Albert. 3. We would advise you to try the 
North Star, though not from experience, as our bushes 
have not fruited yet. This is said to be a strong 
grower ; the racemes are long and heavy, though the 
size of the currant is not so large as that of the Cherry. 
It is exceedingly productive and nearly as good as the 
old Red Dutch. 4. We do not know of any very early 
gQoseberry to recommend except the Orange. Indus¬ 
try mildews with us, too. It is worthless. Columbus 
is fine—perfect, indeed ; but it is rather late. Carman 
is 10 days earlier, but that will not be for sale until next 
year. We have fruited Red Jacket, but it does not 
agree with Mr. Josselyn’s description. Keepsake is a 
new, English sort which we are trying. It is said to 
be fine and very early. 5. Fall or February. 
Qrass and Trees in Poultry Yards. 
K. J. M., Stoughton, Mass. —1. What is the best grass 
to sow in poultry yards on a high elevation, sloping to 
the south ? The soil is a light, sandy loam, with 
gravelly subsoil, and the location is naturally very dry. 
I wish the grass to furnish permanent green food for 
the poultry, each hen having not less than 100 square 
feet of yard room. The yards are 18x140 feet. 2. I have 
planted young fruit trees in the poultry yard. The 
hens scratch and burrow at the base of trees exposing 
the roots. I placed brush about the base of the trees, 
but the hens got under that. Would a layer of stones, 
say, three feet in diameter around the base of the 
trees have any injurious effect on the growth of the 
trees ? 
Ans. —1. Mixed grasses are best, of which White 
clover should predominate. Timothy, Kentucky Blue 
grass, and Orchard grass are excellent. The hens can¬ 
not be allowed upon it until sufficient time has elapsed 
to form a sod. The yards should be divided so as to 
permit the grass to grow on one side while the hens 
occupy the other. 2. Stones will not answer at the 
base of the trees, as they form harborirug places for 
vermin. Increase the amount of brush, and lift it 
oecasionally and clean around the trees, p. h. Jacobs. 
Spreading: Q.uack Grass. 
K., Albion, N. F.—Is there danger of carrying Quack 
grass from one farm to another if both are worked by 
the same man ? If so, where is the danger, in the 
plows, drags or cultivators, or in quack hay brought 
on the farm ? 
Ans. — Quack (Agropyrum or Triticum repens) 
spreads by the roots. It also is spread by seed, but it 
seqds sparingly. If hay, of which Quack is a part, is 
eaten by animals and their manure spread upon land, 
no doubt the uninjured Quack seeds would germinate. 
Pieces of the roots might be carried from one farm to 
another in cultivator teeth or plows, and in that way 
start a new growth. 
Cheap Fertilizers for a Western Garden. 
C. L. M., Milwaukee, Wis .—I notice with interest the 
account of J. H. Hale’s heavy fertilizing. I have a 
small piece of orchard, and, being restricted in room, 
want to use the land to best advantage. I grow gladio¬ 
lus and lilies, alternating with corn fodder, and have 
been able to get cow.manure (brewers’ grains used 
for feeding) very cheap. I think it will pay me to 
supplement this with potash in some form, and on 
small plots prefer to use no stable manure. Potash 
salts so far West, are higher by the freight than in 
the East. Tobacco stems are about the same price as 
in the East, but I find that pure hardwood ashes cost 
me only about 82 a ton. Will they not take the place 
of all other forms of potash ? How large a quantity 
would be safe per acre, and how applied on plowed 
land and on sod ? Tankage is produced here, and is 
cheaper than further East. Would bone meal be de¬ 
cidedly preferable to the tankage ? Would the latter 
have any tendency to cause decay of bulbs or tubers ? 
I have never tried it on such crops, but have found it 
a wonderful stimulus in the fiower garden, even on 
highly manured soils. I have a small plot of pota¬ 
toes, only enough to raise a supply for my own family. 
Looking at the loss in labor of carrying water and of 
Paris-green as between a good knapsack sprayer and 
a watering can, and especially the loss due to blight 
which I had not thought of attacking with my poor 
outfit, I conclude that a sprayer would have paid for 
its cost on my small place this season. 
Ans. —The wood ashes will certainly take the place 
of the potash salts, and, at the price named, are much 
cheaper. You can safely use any quantity of wood 
ashes—three tons per acre would give you more potash 
than Mr. Hale uses. Our choice would be to plow the 
ground thoroughly, then broadcast the ashes and har¬ 
row and caltivate them well into the soil. We would 
use a mixture of one-third tjinkage and two-thirds 
bone. The tankage alone will give too much nitro¬ 
gen, and will be likely to force the fiowers too much. 
With tankage, bone meal and wood ashes, you will have 
a complete fertilizer. Of course, you will not attempt 
to mix the wood ashes and tankage or bone. No doubt 
about the profit in using a good sprayer—the chances 
are that a Paris-green gun with the dry Bordeaux 
Mixture would have paid still better. 
