1894 
56'; 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
inflammable. A thorough airing will remove all traces 
of the odor of this substance. m. v. s. 
Potato Stalk Insects. 
O. M. W., Johnstown, Pa. —Well-grown, strong potato 
plants get hollow near the ground ; the leaves wither 
and the plant dies. What is probably the cause ? I 
have found the inclosed insects within the hollow 
stem. What are they, and is one of them probably the 
cause ? 
Ans.—T he insects found in the hollow stem are two 
beetles belonging to widely different families, but 
both of them classed among the scavengers, or those 
that feed on decaying animal or vegetable matter. 
Doubtless neither caused the injury to the stalk, but 
both were later visitants attracted by the decaying 
matter. There is a Stalk-borer (Gortyna nitela) whose 
caterpillar often bores out potato stalks ; the larva, 
however, is quite large and ought to be easily found. 
There is also a Potato-Stalk weevil (Trichobaris trino- 
tata), a small snout beetle not quite so large as the 
Plum curculio and similarly built. Judging from the 
brief account given by G. M. W. of the injury, I would 
guess that it was the work of this weevil. Briefly 
told, its life history is this : The eggs are laid by the 
beetle in the tender portions of the stems, and as soon 
as the grub hatches, it mines downward in the tender 
pith, and when nearly full-grown, reaches the main 
stem; here it mines out the whole pith down to the 
root, then mines back up the stem nearly to the sur¬ 
face of the ground or a little above, where it gnaws a 
hole in the woody portion out to the bark. Here the 
grub changes to a pupa, and later to the adult weevil. 
The injury is usually noticed in the latter part of July, 
and the adult beetles begin emerging early in August. 
The pest breeds also in the stems of Horse nettle and 
several species of ground cherry. The only remedy 
that has been recommended is to pull the vines as 
soon as they show signs of wilting, and burn them, 
roots and all. Do not wait until it is time to dig the 
potatoes, for then many of the beetles will have 
emerged. Probably about July 15 will be the proper 
time. M. V. 8. 
Leaf-Feeding- Beetle ; a Disgusting- Insect. 
H. S. P., Sherburne, N. Y, —What are the inclosed 
bugs? The slugs were of a black or dark-brown 
color, with one end curled up over their backs and 
covered with sharp looking bristles; they were very 
repulsive looking. After a time they assumed the 
shape they now are, only they were covered with a 
soft fuzz, and were striped black and white. Now 
they resemble a potato bug. They seem to like 
creeper vines much better than the peas, as they were 
on them in much larger quantities. 
Ans. —The insect is one of the chrysomelid or leaf¬ 
feeding beetles, closely allied to, and of nearly the 
same shape and size, as the common potato beetle. 
Its name is Chelymorpha argus. The beetles are 
commonly known as Tortoise beetles, from their re¬ 
semblance in figure to those reptiles. The sides of 
the thorax are flattened and project so as to hide the 
head, while the large wing covers also entirely hide 
the body. The under surface of the body and the 
legs are black, but the upper surface is of a light-yel¬ 
low color, marked with 17 conspicuous black spots. 
The beetles feed upon various plants, usually favor¬ 
ing the morning-gloiy or milkweed, but sometimes 
damaging peas or corn. As the insect has never be¬ 
come a serious pest, but little has been recorded re¬ 
garding its habits. The larva or grub resembles in 
shape that of the potato beetle ; it is of a dark-yellow 
color, and armed with spines or bristles. The larvae 
present an unpleasant appearance from their curious 
habit of carrying about with them their old cast-off 
“clothes,” or larval skin, which remains attached to 
the spines at the tail end, and is thrown up on the 
back of the grub by an upward curve of its tail end ; 
sometimes the excrement adheres to this cast skin, 
and thus increases the disgusting appearance. There 
is probably but one brood of the insect each year. To 
change to the pupa state, the grub fastens itself by 
its tail end to a leaf. The pupa is of a dark color 
spotted with yellow, and covered with a whitish pow¬ 
der ; stout spines project from its sides, and the spiny 
cast-off larval skin is crowded into a spiny bundle at 
the attached end. This insect can be easily kept in 
check by spraying the infested plants with the arsen- 
ites ; both the grubs and beetles will succumb to this 
treatment. m. v. slingekland. 
Making- a Water Meadew. 
C. H., Bristol, III .—I have a flat about 100 rods long 
by 40 wide, along one side of which runs a good-sized 
creek, with the bed about three feet below the level 
of the flat. This flat is practically level, gently slop¬ 
ing toward the lower end in conformity with the 
fall of the stream which flows at the rate of about 
three miles per hour. Of the strata composing this 
flat, the first foot is soil, a mixture of sand and peat, 
then come two feet of blue clay, and below this gravel 
containing water. As will be noticed, the water is only 
three feet below the surface or on a level with the 
creek. How can I irrigate this flat to the best advan¬ 
tage ? 
Ans. —This is an excellent opportunity for making 
a water meadow, the most valuable use to which land 
may be put. This is so because the flooding with 
water brings down the stream a vast quantity of fer¬ 
tile matter, the richest spoil of the lands above, that 
has been washed from the lands by the rain and car¬ 
ried off by the high water. This matter brought on 
the meadow by the high water, is deposited and left to 
add to the soil, which thus increases by constant addi¬ 
tions, year after year, that far more than replaces the 
loss of the land by the removal of the grass. To pre¬ 
pare the land, it must first be drained, so that the sur¬ 
plus water, when filtered of its burden, may pass off 
again at low water. If the land is not sufficiently near 
level to be covered with the water, it should be made 
so, by plowing and cross plowing, scraping, and har¬ 
rowing. Then it is sown with the grass seed most suit¬ 
able for this kind of culture. These varieties are Rye 
grass, Red Top, Timothy, Orchard grass. Yellow Oat 
grass, and fescue. Six pounds of Timothy, and 12 
pounds of each of the others may be sown per acre. A 
light harrowing will cover the seed sufficiently to in¬ 
sure a close growth of grass. This done, the field is 
at once inclosed by a bank high enough to retain 
water enough to cover the whole ground. An inlet 
gate is made at the upper end and an outlet at the 
lower one. If it is necessary to facilitate the rapid 
escape of the water, a ditch on the lower side should 
be made into which the drains will discharge. 
Then comes the dam to raise the water high enough 
to flood the land at any time it may be desired. This 
is early in the fall to give a good start to the grass 
cut or pastured close and afterwards mowed to re¬ 
move all coarse tufts left. Early in the spring, another 
flow may be given, and it will do no harm to keep the 
water on during the whole winter if it will not freeze 
down to the grass ; but the fleld may be flooded to get 
ice to cut anyhow, and in some places this will be the 
most profltable crop to take. One acre would supply 
250 tons if the ice is but six inches thick. The water 
may be let on at every freshet, while the grass is low, 
and whenever in a dry time it is wanted to keep the 
grass in vigorous growth. It is easily seen that the 
owner of such a meadow need not fear any drought as 
long as the stream runs, because the water may be 
turned on to the fleld at any time by merely opening 
the head gate. Similar fields are numerous in every 
country in Europe, and it will not be long before the 
same kind of water culture will be adopted here to 
make those farms most productive that have this ex¬ 
ceedingly valuable privilege pertaining to them. h. s. 
A Talk About Hedsre Plants. 
H. M., Lower Saucon, Pa .—I wish to plant a hedge 
around the lawn. A part of it will be along the top of 
a retaining wall, five or six feet high; the rest on 
level ground. I do not want the hedge more than 
three or four feet high. 1. What is the best plant for 
the purpose ? 2. Is it advisable to use evergreens ? 
3. Can the plants be set out in autumn to advantage ? 
4, How shall I plant and care for a hedge ? There are 
very few hedges within a day’s journey of my place 
which may and may not account for my ignorance of 
the matter. 
Ans. —It is rather hard to confine any plant suitable 
for hedges to so low a height, after the hedge reaches 
some age. We recall an interesting experiment made 
at the Rural Grounds many years ago. A small Ameri¬ 
can Arbor vitae was set alone upon the lawn and 
severely cut back every year. At the end of about 10 
years (as we remember) the plant was only two or 
three feet high with a circumference of not less than 
30 feet. The experiment convinced us that arbor vit® 
plants should not be set so closely together as they 
usually are for hedges. 1. The best plant for hedges? 
That is a hard question. If we were placed as we are 
guessing our friend is placed, we would think twice 
of the Japan ornamental quince in variety, before we 
thought once of any other. It may be restrained for 
10 years or more to the height named. The foliage is 
as pretty and fresh as that of any other hedge plant. 
In spring, the flowers are charming, varying in color 
from pure white to dark red. This quince (Cydonia) 
is very hardy, a rampant grower, thriving in almost 
any situation or soil. The Osage orange is classed by 
many as the best hedge plant. We do not care for it. 
There is nothing whatever to commend it above the 
Japan quince, so beautiful either in bloom or in fruit. 
Next we would choose the Purple barberry, which is 
perfectly hardy. Its foliage is fine ; its flowers are 
pretty and its racemed fruit is held for a long time, 
even during the entire winter. This, though, might 
easily be restrained to four feet by annual pruning. 
It has the further advantage of never making very 
large main stems. The Common privet (Ligustrum 
vulgare) is very good. As a hedge plant, it will never 
bloom, because it is necessary to cut off all the bloom¬ 
ing wood in order to keep it within bounds. Again, 
the main stem in the course of 15 years grows to be 
objectionably large. It has the advantage of holding 
its leaves fresh and green (in our friend’s climate) 
until after New Years. Of all evergreen hedges, we 
would select the Hemlock spruce (Abies or Tsuga 
Canadensis) for grace and beauty, being very careful 
not to place the little plants too close. 2. Yes, if one 
prefers green during the winter. 3. No, not as to 
evergreens. 4. Give them good soil, since they are to 
start vigorously. After that they will care for them¬ 
selves, if the weeds are kept down and the soil culti¬ 
vated about them for a space of a foot or more on 
either side. 
Brood Sow with Weak Hind €luarters. 
H. B., Union, N. Y. —I have a breeding sow which 
had a litter of pigs June 1. For the past 15 or 18 days, 
she has been weak in her hind parts, staggers about 
and does not seem to have any command of the legs. 
She falls down and then draws herself about the pen 
or yard. What can I do for her ? Is it contagious ? 
I have separated her from the other hogs and put her 
in a pen with a dry earth floor and plenty of straw. I 
feed milk, rye and wheat bran, 100 pounds of rye and 
200 pounds of bran mixed, and then mixed with milk 
and let stand one day before feeding. I give plenty 
of charcoal and a tablespoonful of sulphur once in two 
weeks. 
Ans. —Bathe the loins every other day, with a lini¬ 
ment of equal parts of sweet oil, strong aqua ammonia 
and oil of turpentine well shaken together. Give 
twice daily in the feed 20 grains of powdered nux. 
After a week increase the dose of nux to 30 grains ; 
and if necessary to continue the third week, to 40 
grains. It is not contagious. Discontinue the use of 
the sulphur. If the sow is very fat, reduce the feed. 
P. li. K. 
A Horse With Brittle Hoofs. 
P. S., Bamesvllle, 0. —I have a valuable horse with 
tender or brittle feet, so much so that it is with dif- 
flculty he can get to the shop if a shoe is lost. What 
should be the treatment for them ? 
Ans. —Stimulate a more active growth of horn by 
applying a fly-blister around the coronet at the top of 
the hoof. Repeat two or three times if found desira¬ 
ble, at intervals of three to four weeks. An occasional 
application of pine tar to the hoofs will also prove 
beneflcial. Bat do not apply any “ greasy ” ointments. 
They all favor brittleness of the hoof. Standing in a 
wet or fllthy stable, and especially in the manure or 
urine, is very injurious to such feet, or to any feet in 
fact, and is to be avoided. In shoeing, allow no un¬ 
necessary rasping or paring of either wall or sole. 
P. I.. K. 
Pear Blig-ht; Setting an Asparagus Bed. 
W. K. R., Franhtown, Va. —1. My pear trees are 
affected with a disease which I fear is fire blight. I 
send a small twig, taken from a Clapp’s Favorite. I 
have lost some fine trees. The Seckels, so far, are 
exempt. Is it blight ? If so, can anything be done to 
check it ? I have cut off the diseased limbs, but the 
trees continue to die. 2. In setting a new plantation 
of asparagus, would it be advisable to select male 
plants only. 
Ans —1. Yes, this seems to be fire blight. The only 
remedy is to spray with the Bordeaux Mixture. We 
would spray just before the buds unfold, just before 
the tree blossoms and after the fruit is set. Spray 
now, also. 2. Yes, we would prefer to set males so as 
to get rid of seedling asparagus, not because the stacks 
grow larger. A few years ago we marked a certain 
number of the largest shoots in our bed. We found 
when they bloomed that there were as many females 
as males. 
Transplanting Ornamental Trees. 
R. S. L., Washington, D. C. —I have a Norway spruce 
about four feet high and vigorous, in an undesirable 
place, and wish to remove it. When and how can I 
best accomplish removal to a point a few yards dis¬ 
tant? I have tried to a limited extent, to remove 
field cedars, and fall planting in September when the 
ground is dry has given me the best results. I wish 
to remove, also, a small native poplar to my yard. 
When ? It is only a few inches high, and I am in 
doubt whether to transplant this fall or next spring. 
Ans. —We would choose spring transplanting for the 
spruce. Secure all the roots intact, and it will surely 
stand the change. The poplar may be transplanted 
this fall. 
Some Orchard Questions. 
P. S., Bamesvllle, Ohio. —1. I have a peach orchard, 
planted three years; the only cultivation this summer 
has been digging around the trees for five or six feet. 
They have grown very well, but the drought is tell¬ 
ing on them. Would it be a detriment to plow among 
them now to prepare the land to sow Crimson clo/er ? 
2. I planted a cutting from a prolific wild grape vine. 
The vine grown is three years old, is fairly well grown 
and bloomed profusely this spring, but did not set a 
grape. What is the matter ? Will it continue to 
bloom and not bear if left alone ? I layered it for 
some plants. Will they behave the same ? 
Ans. —1. We would take the chances and try the Crim¬ 
son clover. 2. Probably the vine bears male blos¬ 
soms. If so, of course, it will never bear grapes. 
