THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
76i 
cheapest and best power I can get. I have no trouble 
to hire an engine after the wheat thrashing is over, to 
come and stay till the next thrashing season com¬ 
mences, and consider it cheaper than owning one. 5. 
I can grind corn and cob as fine as wanted, and like it 
very much. I use it for cattle, hordes and sheep, and 
a great many like it for hogs. I grind corn and cob 
mostly. Since wheat has been so cheap, I have been 
grinding some wheat, and I mix a little of that with 
the corn. I can do a good job on oats, and grind them 
when we have any. G. I think it will pay the aver¬ 
age farmer to have some kind of a mill for grinding 
feed. I don’t think it costs me any more to grind my 
corn, than it would to break or chop it up fit to feed 
to cattle, as we can run it through the mill as fast as or 
faster than we could work it up in any other way and 
have it in much better shape. C. B. i). 
Summer Hill, Ill. 
Likes a Horse Tread Power. 
1. I can grind feed, either fine or coarse, conse¬ 
quently as well prepared for feeding as if ground by 
a regular miller. 3. I save the time going to mill, as 
well as something on toll, as quite often the grinding 
is done when the weather is unfavorable for working 
out-of-doors. 3. If a farmer or dairyman keeps (and 
feeds as he should) 10 head of stock, he can afford to 
have a mill. With this number and even a greater 
number, a good sweep mill, costing but a trifle as 
compared with the other outfits, may be used. If 
circumstances will permit the purchase and manage¬ 
ment of a mill having greater capacity, then this kind 
should be used. My mill grinds from eight to fifteen 
bufihels of shelled corn, oats, wheat, rye or any shelled 
grain, separated or mixed according to fineness and 
condition, in one hour. 4. In my business, I use a 
two-horse tread power, and consider it the cheapest, 
safest and most satisfactory where this amount of 
power is sufficient to run the mill in use satisfac¬ 
torily. 5. I can grind corn and cob at the same time, 
but my mill is rather small, and the power hardly 
sufficient where the corn is large and hard. Some¬ 
times I select small ears and grind without shelling. 
I grind and use corn, oats, rye and wheat. (>. I believe 
it is economy and a satisfaction to own and use a farm 
mill, depending, of course, upon the amount of feed 
to be prepared, upon the capacity of the mill, etc. I 
use a No. 3 Bowsher feed mill, run by a two-horse 
St. Albans tread power, which also runs my No. 3 
DeLaval separator, a churn and butter worker. I ex 
pect to run a corn sheller and feed cutter by it soon. 
Clinton, Mo. ii. t. b. 
[Every query must be accompanied by the name and address of 
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see whether it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask 
only a few questions at one time. Put questions on a .separate 
piece of paper.] 
Proposed Doses for the Borer. 
J. R. E., Industry, Pa. —1. How will a mixture of 
whale-oil soap and carbolic acid, alone, act as a wash 
for peach trees, for borers ? 3. Would it destroy the 
small ones? 3. Would a handful or more of salt, ap¬ 
plied to the roots of peach trees, when the soil is re¬ 
moved at the collar, be beneficial or not ? 
Ans.— 1'. It would not do the slightest good, except if 
applied just at the right time ; it might prevent the 
female from depositing eggs. 3. No ; the borers are 
in the tree and could not be reached by any wash. 3. 
We do not think the salt would have any effect one 
way or the other. 
To Make Plum Trees Bloom. 
R. E. B., Tidif/ute, Pa. —There are four nice plum 
trees on this place, but they have not borne for years; 
bore only one or two years and then ceased. They 
never put forth a blossom, but are perfect in shape 
and foliage ; no appearance of disease. 
Ans.—I f the trees do not bloom, we would cut them 
back somewhat and give them a rather severe root 
pruning. 
Propagating Rex Begonias. 
E. S. S. A., Northhoro, Mass. —How may I propa¬ 
gate Rex begonias ? 
Ans. —Rex begonias may be propagated either by 
means of cuttings of growing wood, or leaf cuttings. 
Propagation by seeds is only resorted to for the produc¬ 
tion of new varieties. Cuttings of the branches root 
readily in clean sand, kept moist, and maintained at 
an average temperature of 70 degrees. They should 
be taken with one or two joints. If the latter, the 
lower should be cut away, and the upper one trimmed 
down to one-fourth its natural dimensions. Rex 
begonias are so short jointed that if single-eye cut¬ 
tings are used, it is necessary to bind them to a tooth¬ 
pick or twig of wood before thrusting them into the 
sand, in order that they get sufficient hold to remain 
upright when watered. The greater part of the at¬ 
tached leaf should be cut away. By means of leaf 
cuttings, is the most certain and simple method of 
propagation, and is universally practiced. Each ma¬ 
ture leaf, or section of leaf, containing a portion of 
fleshy vein or midrib, will root if maintained in firm 
contact with moist .sand, at a temperature of G5 to 70 
degrees. If the leaves are divided, they may be cut 
in triangular sections, having a portion of the rib as 
the apex, and placed edgewise in the sand with the 
apex down. Or the whole leaf may be placed flat on 
the sand and pegged to it by thin splinters of wood 
thrust through the ribs. In the course of a few 
weeks, roots are generally emitted, and buds soon 
form at each of these splinters, making as many inde¬ 
pendent plants. The leaf may then be cut apart, and 
the plants potted separately. During the propaga¬ 
tion of begonias, keep the sand constantly moist, but 
avoid wetting the leaves as much as possible, as it is 
likely to cause decay. w. v. f. 
Small Potatoes; Three in a Hill. 
0. T. C., Lfyralnc, III. —I have a lot of small potatoes, 
and am not able to buy .seed ? How small will it be 
economy to plant ? Where shall I draw the line be¬ 
tween the seed and hog feed ? 
Ans. —We would, iinder such circumstances, plant 
all, no matter how small. Use two, three or four of 
the smallest in the hill. 
How to Winter Geraniums. 
L. E., Null, Ont. —What is the best way to winter 
geraniums for blooming next summer ? 
Ans. — A cellar that will winter potatoes safely, may 
usually be depended on to protect strong plants of 
geraniums. I^et tlie plants remain out and ripen as 
thoroughly as possible, protecting them from the 
earliest frosts by blankets or newspapers. When a 
hard freeze is imminent, take them up with good 
balls of earth ; trim off about half the foliage, and 
plant them about ()X(5 inches apart in old boxes, pro¬ 
vided with a few auger holes in the bottom for 
drainage. Pack the earth well around the roots, 
water moderately and place in a light, airy part of 
the cellar. They should be frequently inspected, and 
be gradually allowed to dry out as they become dor¬ 
mant. Maintain the earth as dry as po.ssible, but at 
any signs of shriveling, a little water should be given. 
Old i)lants frequently winter well if hung to the 
joists and allowed to dry out, but it is better to keep 
the roots in earth containing some moisture. ' 
w. VAN fl?:kt. 
Sea Weed as Humus. 
E., Say Harbor, N. Y. —My farm is located on .salt 
water, and every storm throws quantities of sea weed, 
or eel grass, on the shore. I want all the humus I can 
get for my light soil. Can I rot this sea weed cheaply? 
Is it worth while to do it? How can it be done most 
easily and cheaply ? 
Ans. —Send to the Rhode Lsland Experiment Sta¬ 
tion, King.ston, R. I., for a bulletin on sea weed. 
The sea weed proper—like kelp—will serve well for 
the purpose mentioned. The eel gra.ss is very hard to 
rot or break up. Probably the quickest way to make 
it available, would be to run it through a cutter and 
compost it with layers of lime. 
Killing Lice on Tree Roots. 
A. F. A., Clurernont, Va. —What shall 1 do for trees 
which I intend to set this fall, where the roots are 
infested with lice ? Can 1 dip them in tobacco water, 
or something of the kind, or would it do just to soak 
in water for a day or so ? They are good, thrifty 
trees, but I want to get rid of the lice before I plant 
on new land. 
Ans.—Y es, dipping them in tobacco water, in the 
kerosene emulsion, or in mild carbolic acid water 
would kill the insects. 
How to Lengthen a Shortage of Pasture. 
M. A. L., Palo, Mich. —I have a meadow where the 
clover has run out or has been killed by the Root- 
borer. It is now mostly Timothy and June grass. I 
had thought of plowing this fall and planting to corn 
in the spring, but seeding was all killed by the 
drought, so I don’t know what to do next year for 
pasture. How would it do to go over the meadow 
with a harrow and sow some fertilizer ? The soil is 
in good condition, a sandy loam with clay subsoil, and 
rolling enough to be well drained. We have never 
used any fertilizers here. 
Ans. —The pastures spoken of by M. A. L., are in 
the same condition as many others throughout this 
and other States, wherever the Clover Root-borer has 
made its appearance. Under the circumstances, about 
the only thing to do is to harrow the ground thor¬ 
oughly and sow to clover and Timothy as early in the 
spring as possible, rolling immediately after the seed¬ 
ing, as it is too late to sow this fall. If some good 
ashes could be spread over the land, the results would 
likely be better than if the ordinary fertilizers were 
used. In any case, no marked z*esults can be expected 
to follow the first year, as it will be impossible for 
the grass to get sufficient roots to make good pastur¬ 
age the coming season. The amount of seed to be 
sown will depend largely upon the condition of the 
land. Two pounds of clover to one of Timothy would 
probably be about the right proportion. If success 
do not follow, then about the middle of next Azi- 
gust, sow as indicated above, and on all weak spots 
spread some light manure thinly, in ortler to hold 
moisture and shade the young plants. Cattle should 
not tramp the ground to any extent, or the young 
plants will be injured. Hereafter, at least once a 
year, harrow the pasture, and if more clover is desired, 
sow early in the spring, one or two pounds of mixed 
Alsike and Medium clover per acre ; if more Timothy, 
then sow in the same manner and under like condi¬ 
tions in early fall. If some oats, and a quick matur¬ 
ing variety of corn were planted on warm soil early, 
and used as .soiling crops, the pastures would be re¬ 
lieved in midsummer and fall, when they are most 
likely to fail. They might be saved somewhat in the 
spring by keeping the cattle in the barns later than 
usual, and by feeding a little ground feed in the 
stables daily. All this will help to tide over the 
shortage of summer food until the regular rotation 
can be re-established. i. i*. kobkkts. 
Chronic Founder of a Horse. 
F. P. D., Enyllshtown, N. J. —My hor.se has been 
fozindered nearly a year, and has never had any treat¬ 
ment. Is the .so-called “ American method” efficient, 
and how is it applied ? Is the niti-ate of potash or 
saltpeter put in the water and applied to the feet, or 
is it given internally ? Is three or four ounces of .salt¬ 
peter in a pint of water every six hours not too large a 
dose ? Will it effect a cure ? 
Ans. —No one can advise satisfactory treatment for 
a long-standing case of founder without knowing the 
present condition of the patient. In general, we may 
expect deformed or overgrown hoofs, but the condi¬ 
tion varies greatly, and the proper treatment would 
vary accordingly. In the present case, 1 can only ad¬ 
vise careful shoeing by a competent farrier. Repeated 
fly blisters to the coronet might prove beneficial by 
stimulating a more active growth of horn. If the hoofs 
are dry or brittle, apply pine tar, or tar and vaseline 
occasionally. Nitrate of potasb, or saltpeter, is most 
frequently administered internally, usually in doses of 
one-fourth to one ounce, and may be repeated three or 
four times daily. Two-ounce doses may be safely given 
to advantage in cases of acute founder (i. e., the early 
stages), but it would be unwi.se to give repeated larger 
doses. It might also be used in a cooling lotion for 
the feet. But in a chronic case of the founder, nitrate 
of pota.sh would be of little or no use, either inter¬ 
nally or externally. The “American method” re¬ 
ferred to, with the nitrate of pota.sh treatment, is ap¬ 
plicable only in the acute stages of the disea.se. 
F. I.. KII.BOKNE. 
Brine Salting the Butter. 
F. W. A., Crystal Sirrlnys, Wash. —Will Tjik R. N.-Y. 
give full information about .salting butter with brine, 
showing its advantages and di.sadvantages ? We have 
always u.sed the dry .salt method, one ounce to a 
pound ; but it requires a great deal of working to 
incorporate the salt thoroughly, and we have been 
thinking that perhaps the brine method may be pref¬ 
erable. How is the degree of .saltiness in the butter 
regulated, and does the method not use much more 
salt than the other ? 
Ans. —In brine salting butter, care must be taken to 
stop the churn as soon as the butter granules are well 
formed. The buttermilk is drawn off, and the butter 
rinsed once with water or weak brine. A saturated 
brine (all the salt water will dissolve) is then added in 
amount at least three times the bulk of the butter, 
and allowed to stand 10 to 1.5 minutes with occasional 
gentle agitation ; it is then drawn off and a second 
portion, also saturated, added in like manner as the 
first. The butter is then taken from the churn and 
worked enough to solidify it, and remove the water, 
when it is ready for market. As .salt dissolves much 
more readily in warm than in cold water, it is better 
to make the saturated brine by dissolving as much 
salt as po.ssible in water at a temperature of 110 
to 130 degrees and then cooling the brine to 45 or 50 
degrees before putting it on the butter. By salting 
butter in this way, it is not possible to incorporate in 
the butter quite so much salt as when butter is salted, 
one ounce to the pound, in the usual way. The 
advantage of brine salting is that it gives a uniform 
light salting with a minimum amount of working. 
The disadvantages are that a large amount of salt is 
wa.sted and that it is a good deal of trouble to prepare 
the brine. Much of the advantage of brine salting 
may be secured by stirring the dry salt into the 
granular butter, taking care that the butter is kept in 
a granular condition, and then letting it stand for an 
hour or so, till the salt is well dissolved before the 
butter is pressed together and the water worked out. 
Where this is done, the salt may be added to the 
butter, either in the churn or on the worker—many 
prefer the former. Of course the butter must be kept 
in a cool place while the salt is dissolving, ii. n. wing. 
