io4 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
February 16 
t xtent. The easiest draft is due to the line of trac¬ 
tion being perpendicular to the line of the shoulder of 
the horse, by which the pressure on the shoulder is 
made the most direct. Neglect of this is the cause of the 
galling of the shoulders of horses, so frequently occur¬ 
ring, mostly by reason of the formation of the limb, 
by which the line of draft is thrown out of easiest 
direction as regards the slope of the shoulders. This 
principle applied to the draft of a wagon, would make 
it necessary for the easiest draft, that the axle of the 
wheels should be so fixed that the» traction should be 
exerted in a direct line with the middle of the slope 
of the shoulder of the horse, and perpendicular to it. 
Thus this line would come somewhat below the usual 
height of a high wheel, and about even with the line 
of the wheel in common use. H. s. 
Cotton-Seed Meal and Bran for Fertilizer. 
8. I)., Oak Hill , N. T.— Will it answer to use cotton-seed meal 
and wheat bran in the hill with corn as a manure ? At present 
prices of cotton-seed meal, it is far below the experiment station 
valuation for manure in cost. 
Ans. —Cotton seed meal is a good fertilizer—it is 
much used by tobacco growers and by farmers and 
gardeners in the South. Bran is out of the question 
as a fertilizer—it is too costly. A ton of average cot¬ 
ton-seed meal should contain 130 pounds of nitrogen, 
55 of phosphoric acid and 35 of potash, with a value of 
about .$27, as prices vary for other fertilizing ingredi¬ 
ents. Cotton-seed meal is now low in price, and large 
quantities of it will be used as a fertilizer. You will 
notice that the nitrogen is largely in excess of the 
other two substances. This does not give a good 
balance. You should use more potash and phosphoric 
acid with it. This could be done by broadcasting over 
the field a mixture of two parts of fine bone to one of 
muriate of potash, and then putting the cotton-seed 
meal in the hill or drill. 
Cheap Fertilizer in Nova Scotia. 
H. T., Milltown, N. B.— What is the best manure to use on 
meadows both to reseed after planting and as top-dressing ? I 
can buy fish pomace here for $10 per ton, pressed into barrels 
green after the oil is taken out. Other fertilizers would be bought 
in Boston. What is the proper amount per acre ? 
Ans —The cheapest thing for you to do is to use the 
fish pomace, and add potash in some form. The fish 
contains nitrogen and phosphoric acid. The potash 
can be used in the form of wood ashes or muriate of 
potash. The ashes will average about 100 pounds of 
potash to the ton, and the muriate 1,000. You can 
figure from this the relative value of potash at prices 
in your market. We would use 300 pounds of muriate 
or 1% ton of good ashes to the ton of pomace—broad¬ 
cast them over the meadows. 
Sawdust and Ashes for Manure. 
A. E. B., Artie, Ind .—What do you think of putting old rotten 
sawdust and wood ashes on dry land deficient in vegetable mat¬ 
ter ? Can any one tell from actual experience, what the effect 
would be on the land, and whether it would be likely to pay ex¬ 
penses ? The sawdust must be hauled about half a mile, and the 
ashes purchased at reasonable prices. How much of each would 
you recommend ? 
Ans. —We have no doubt that well-rotted sawdust 
and wood ashes would benefit clay land. The saw¬ 
dust would provide humus to lighten the soil, while 
the ashes would provide potash and phosphoric acid 
and also lime, to “sweeten” the soil and loosen and 
break it up to some extent. That is all true, but we 
doubt whether it' would pay to haul the sawdust, ex¬ 
cept for garden crops. We would rather use the 
ashes, and thus secure a catch of clover or grass, and 
plow under the sod. We would not care to use saw¬ 
dust on land until it had been used as bedding or ab¬ 
sorbent, or worked through a compost. We have 
heard of gardeners using sawdust in connection with 
chemicals, and shall be glad to have them give us 
their experience. 
Value of Kainit: A “ Home Mixture.” 
G. P., Townsend Harbor, Mass. —1. In comparing kainit with 
muriate of potash, the latter is considered the cheaper source of 
potash; but in estimating the value of kainit, ought we not to in¬ 
clude its percentage of sulphate of magnesia ? Sulphate of mag¬ 
nesia, valuable in fertilization of grass land and fruit trees, costs 
$12, or more, per ton, with about 17 per cent of magnesia. Why 
should not a ton of kainit, containing nine per cent of magnesia, 
be worth fully one-half as much, considered simply as a source of 
magnesia? 2. I think of using the following formula for a fertilizer 
for top-dressing grass land this spring. What do you think of it ? 
Pounds. Nitrogen. Potash. Phos. acid. 
150 cotton-seed meal. 
9 
2.5 
2.5 
100 ground tankage. 
4 
20.0 
60 nitrate of soda. 
9 
200 kainit. 
0 
24.6 
25 muriate of potash. 
25 dissolved boneblack. 
12.0 
4.6 
40 ground bone. 
i 
20.0 
600 for one acre. 
23 
38.5 
36.5 
My soil tends to excessive dryness, and I 
have thought 
that the 
saline property of the kainit might be 
an 
advantage in 
retaining 
moisture. 
Ans. —1 . While there may be soils that require 
special applications of magnesia, as a general rule, 
this substance, like soda, is sufficient^ abundant in 
the soil to supply the amount required by crops. It 
is probably less necessary than lime, and in deter¬ 
mining the cost of actual potash, we would not give 
value to the magnesia. As between a ton each of 
kainit or muriate, we would consider that the price of 
the former represented about 250 pounds of potash, 
and the latter 1,000 pounds. The salt in the kainit 
might benefit asparagus, grass or grain on some soils, 
yet it would be likely to injure potatoes or beets. 
With these facts in mind, we would buy these potash 
salts on the sole basis of the potash they contain. 2 . 
We consider your formula too complicated for a home 
mixture. To mix seven substances in this way, would 
be an almost endless task. There is no reason for 
using two forms of potash in such a mixture, or of 
using two forms of organic nitrogen like cotton-seed 
meal and tankage. Neither do we think it economy 
to use much dissolved rock or boneblack on grass, 
particularly in home mixtures. The great object of 
these mixtures is to save money. This can best be 
done by buying a few staple chemicals in large lots— 
not by paying retail prices for small lots of many 
different things. For grass, we think a mixture made 
of fine ground bone and either muriate or kainit with 
the addition of a little nitrate of soda or cotton-seed 
meal, will answer for a home mixture. Market prices 
should determine whether cotton-seed meal or nitrate 
were used. 
A Few Potato Questions. 
R. B. F., New Kent, Va .— 1. Would the Crown Jewel be a good 
potato to plant for the early Northern market ? 2. Should it be 
cut lengthwise, so as to have a seed end and stem end on each 
piece ? 3. Are two eyes to a piece enough ? 4. How would Bliss’s 
Triumph answer ? Would it take on the market ? 
Ans. —1. The Crown Jewel was tried at the Rural 
Grounds in 1887. It was introduced by Johnson & 
Stokes, of Philadelphia. It yielded heavily, and was 
found to be somewhat earlier than Beauty of Hebron 
—not so early as Early Ohio. 2. We are in favor of 
cutting seed tubers lengthwise when half pieces are 
used. 3. Yes. for those kinds that have few eyes, like 
It. N.-Y. No 2, givinga good deal of flesh to the eyes. 
But if the eyes are many, we do not favor such small 
pieces. 4. Bliss’s Triumph (Stray Beauty) is among 
the earliest of potatoes. It is used a good deal in the 
South for second crop seed, and is liked because of its 
good quality and color. It never yields heavily, and 
we would not advise you to plant it. 
No “ Abundance " About This Plum. 
M. E. C., Greenwich, Mich. —What is the matter with my Abund¬ 
ance plum tree ? The past two years, it has been loaded with 
blossoms, and they all set plums, but not more than one per cent 
of them grew larger thau pin heads, while a Saratoga tree next to 
it, fruited all right. 
Ans. —We cannot answer this question. We are glad 
to receive such questions, however, as showing the 
shortcomings of favorite novelties in certain parts of 
the country. 
A “ Blight” on Grape Vines. 
N. M. B., St. Catharine's, Can .— I have some Moore’s Diamond 
grape vines that were struck with blight last spring, immediately 
after a season of heavy rain. They are on high ground. The 
leaves turned yellow, and then a heavy coating of mildew covered 
them. What was the cause and what is the remedy ? 
Ans. —This “ blight ” was doubtless a severe attack 
of either the Powdery or Downy mildew fungus. 
Three sprayings with the Bordeaux Mixture are 
recommended ; first, when the leaves are about one 
inch in diameter ; second, when the flowers are open ; 
third, from 10 to 14 days later. M. v. s. 
Various Horticultural Notes. 
J. W. B., Salem, Mass .— 1. What is the advantage of planting 
sweet corn in drills instead of hills? 2. How far apart should it 
be planted ? 3. I understand that most varieties of pears are not 
self-fertilizing. Will a row containing both Bartlett and Bose be 
fruitful ? 4. Am I right in thinking that Abundance plum is self¬ 
fertilizing ? Also the Crosbey peach ? 5. Is the Bose pear early in 
beginning to bear and a good yielder ? The Bose sells the best of 
any variety. 
Ans. —1. There is the advantage that it will yield 
more grain to the given area. There is the disadvant¬ 
age that the field cannot be horse-cultivated both 
ways. We have used the Macomber corn planter made 
by D. H. Nash, Millington, N. J. 2. This depends 
upon the variety—tall growing kinds—like Evergreen, 
may be planted one foot apart in the drills, the drills 
3>£ feet apart. 3. Yes. 4. Yes. 5. Yes, very early 
and a heavy yielder, but the tree is a moderate 
grower. 
Soaking Sprouted Seed for Scab. 
W. F. W., Rindge, N. H .— Will the solution used to prevent the 
scab on potatoes, injure the sprout if it has started before the 
potatoes are soaked ; that is, will it kill that sprout? 
Ans. —No, if they are not kept in too long. With 
the usual strength for the solution, 45 minutes would 
be enough soaking for such tubers. 
Artichokes and Corn Fodder. 
M. M., Breckinridge, Mo .— 1. What is the value of artichokes for 
hog feeding compared with corn ? 2. Which is the best variety, 
common, Jerusalem, or White French ? 3. I wish to try some kind 
of corn after rye or wheat, for fodder. Which variety will be most 
likely to mature a crop if planted about July 1 ? 4. Which will 
mature quicker, corn planted in hills, or that planted in drills, 
four to eight inches apart ? 
Ans. —1. By chemical analysis, the artichokes are 
worth about 15 per cent as much as the corn for feed¬ 
ing. It is never fair, however, to compare a root with 
a dry grain in this way. Read what was said about 
them last week. 2. The Jerusalem is usually grown, 
we think. 3. We have used Ne Plus Ultra sweet 
corn for this purpose successfully. There may be 
some local field corn that would suit better. 4. The 
hills, if kept clean and well cultivated. You will 
probably obtain a heavier growth in drills, but more 
mature stalks in the bill, because of a better chance to 
admit sun and air. 
What Part of the Wood for Grafts ? 
J. A. IT., Lampeter, Pa .— I wish to do some grafting this spring 
on apple, pear, chestnut, cherry, etc. The scions are always 
taken from the growth of last season. Does it make any differ- 
ance from what part the scions are cut ? I have been told that the 
buds formed first are not full and vigorous, and those at the tips 
not ripened sufficiently to grow well, but that those in the center 
of the scions are the best, and are the only ones that should be 
used for grafting. Is there much difference, if the huds are well 
developed ? 
Ans. —The scions are always taken from the last 
season’s growth. They should be cut on some warm 
day in December, January or February, and kept in a 
dark cellar, with the butt ends standing on damp 
ground, or buried in sawdust until wanted for graft¬ 
ing. The first two inches of the limb or twig are 
thrown away, then the twig may be used all the way 
to the end if not too light or weak. We usually leave 
three buds on each graft. The wood at the top end of 
the limb usually has a little larger pith or softer 
center, is not quite so hard as that lower down, and is 
more easily broken off when set. We usually throw 
away the top end, yet if we were short of scions, we 
would use it in the smallest limbs to be grafted. 
EDWIN IIOYT. 
Currants Not Satisfactory. 
P. )V. J., Pontiac, Mich. —My currant bushes set last spring, did 
not behave according to my notion. I set them out without cutting 
back, and they made growth on the extreme ends instead of 
spreading or thickening ? My young Fays grow- two to three feet 
high, and then break or fall over. Should I cut them off at the 
ground to thicken up something like a hedge ? 
Ans. —The currant borer is the cause of the branches 
breaking. We fancy that a little cutting back, and 
plenty of fertilizer or manure, would give the desired 
growth. To destroy the borer, cut and burn all 
infested stems early in spring, or at any other time 
when they are seen to be infested. 
Celery in a Greenhouse. 
F. V. B., Blair Station, Pa .— I have a greenhouse 100x26 feet. I 
raise lettuce in winter, and for a summer crop, tomatoes have 
been raised heretofore. The plan is to have the plants as large as 
possible by the time frosts are over, so that we can take the glass 
all off for the rest of the summer. The tomatoes rot too easily. 
Could celery be grown in place of tomatoes, that is, for a summer 
crop ? Of course it would have to be all off in time to plant lettuce 
in the fall, say, October 1. What condition of ground is best, what 
kind of seed, and when should it be sowed ? 
Ans. —It is not at all likely that celery could be suc¬ 
cessfully grown in a greenhouse in summer. In my 
personal experience, a few plants of Crawford's Half¬ 
dwarf, were selected from a seed test, made in Janu¬ 
ary, potted first in 2>£-inch pots and later shifted into 
five-inch pots. They were kept in a house whera the 
average temperature did not rise much above 60 
degrees, until late in May, when they were turned out 
n the garden and given good care. They made large 
clumps by fall, and showed no tendency to run to 
seed. During the last few weeks in the greenhouse, 
growth became checked and the leaves burned, 
though the glass was well whitewashed. Ordinary 
potting soil (rotted sods and one-quarter manure, with 
a little sand) was used. As every one knows, celery 
grows best in a moist and rather low temperature, 
which is exceedingly difficult to maintain under glass 
in summer. In my estimation, the early celery, which 
the enterprising Western growers furnish in such 
abundance, is pretty poor stuff as regards flavor. 
This delicious esculent like many other good things, 
seems to have its appointed season, out of which it 
loses all savor. w. v. f. 
Sore on a Colt. 
W. A., Balm, Pa .— My filly has a discharging sore on her side, 
like a large wart. How can I remove it ? 
Ans. —It should be laid freely open, or dissected out 
with the knife, after which dress dailj' with a two per 
cent solution of carbolic acid, or dust with iodoform. 
f. L. K. 
Skin Disease tn Horse. 
G. H. S., Peru, N. Y .— What is the matter with my colt, and how 
shall I treat him ? He is two years old, and seems to be troubled 
with some skin disease. It first made its appearance on the inside 
of the hind legs above the hocks, and extended to the body. It’s a 
sort of dry scurf or scale. The hair has partially fallen off the 
tail. I noticed it on the inside of the fore legs, and now there are 
scabby patches in several places over the body. The colt seems 
to itch, and bites and rubs itself a good deal. A year ago, the 
mother of this colt seemed to be affected in a similar manner, but 
after giving her a drench and a prescription for the blood, she 
came out all right. Is this contagious ? They seem healthy and 
well otherwise ? 
Ans. —Give the colt one pint of raw linseed oil to 
move the bowels. Then give one tablespoonful of the 
following powder on the feed twice daily : Powdered 
gentian, eight ounces; sulphate of soda, eight ounces; 
bicarbonate of soda, two ounces ; powdered nux 
vomica, two ounces. Mix. Wash the scaly patches 
at least once a week with warm Castile soap suds, 
breaking up and removing as much of the scurf as 
possible, then rub dry and anoint with iodine ointment 
