( 
1895 'J' 
speed, warmth and having the milk sweet. All over 
the West, milk 24 hours old is being creamed with the 
separators. The machine would need to be cleaned, 
probably, twice during the day, and a kettle of hot 
water could be furnished by some patron, possibly 
where the dinner was eaten. If the plan will work, 
and we see only the two serious things to contend 
with, though others might come up on trial, it would 
solve a problem that has to do with a large number of 
farmers who cannot afford to rig up with newfangled 
apparatus, who do not have cream enough to attract 
the great cream buyer, and still too small a quantity 
to warrant a skimming station plant. 
Mr. N. G. Williams, Manager of the Vermont Farm 
Machine Co., has this to say about it : “ The subject 
of putting a separator in a wagon, and going from 
house to house, has been talked about considerably 
for the last two or three years, but so far as we know, 
has not been practiced much. This could be done, 
and if the farms were not too far apart, an active man 
could reach some 10 or 15 dairies, but there would be 
some objections to it. At every place it stopped, the 
separator would have to be tested to see if it was 
level and in good condition for running. Milk is 
separated by these machines 12 hours, or even 30 
hours after being drawn from the cows. It can be 
separated at any time before it sours, but the best 
time to separate it is immediately after it is drawn 
from the cows and before the heat has gotten out of 
it. If old milk is separated, it does better if warmed 
to about 80 to 85 degrees Falir. It does not look as 
though this method of putting a separator in a wagon, 
would be practical to any great extent. It is a great 
deal better for each dairy to have a dairy-size machine, 
and separate the milk as soon as it is drawn from the 
cows. Then, if the dairymen raise calves, as many 
do, they can feed the skim-milk to the calves while 
still warm. Then the cream could be gathered as it 
was in the old way of cream-gathering factories. The 
cream is tested in such cases by the Babcock test. In 
reply to the question as to the size of separators used 
for this purpose, we would recommend the No. 3, or 
GOO-pound size. The machine could be cleaned by 
running warm water through it after each run of 
milk, or, as our machine is so simple in construction, 
the bowl could be taken out and the head taken off 
and all rinsed out and cleaned up in two minutes. 
Disease and Insects on Apple Twigs. 
W. D. S., Clarksville, Va.—I mail some apple twigs infested with 
something that looks like a black rot, where the last year’s growth 
joins the old wood. What is it? In pruning my young orchard 
(nine years old), I found this black spot on only two trees; I cut 
it all off, and burned all except what I send. I also send some 
apple twigs, two with one kind of a cocoon light in color, and one 
twig with a brown cocoon, all from the same tree. 
ANSWERED BY M. V. SLINGERI.AND. 
I cannot diagnose the peculiar dried, cracked, and 
dead spots on the twigs sent. The injury extended 
through the bark and into the wood. Spots of the 
bark, of various sizes, seem to have died, and in dry¬ 
ing, a crack was formed around the edge of the spot. 
The severe pruning resorted to by W. D. S., is doubt¬ 
less the best thing that could be done. 
The three light colored cocoons sent were objects of 
great interest. At c in Fig. 104, is shown, natural 
size, one of these curious cocoons. They are usually 
found upon the smaller branches, or in a crotch of 
oak, apple, or orange trees in the South ; they rarely, 
if ever, occur north of Virginia. They are of peculiar 
shape, as the figure shows, and firmly fastened to the 
branch. The upper end is cut off abruptly, and is 
fitted with a hinged trapdoor which is readily pushed 
open from within, but does not yield to pressure from 
without, and is so accurately fitted that no telltale 
crack can be discerned. Upon the back of the cocoon 
is an elevation formed by the meeting of several folds 
and ridges, forming a marvelously exact imitation of 
a winter bud. The ends of a lock of hair from the 
body of the caterpillar which made the cocoon, coun¬ 
terfeit the down which, in nature, protects the dor¬ 
mant bud. The substance of the cocoon is a tough 
parchment composed of silken threads, glued together, 
in which is felted the long, hairy covering of the 
builder. The entire arrangement of the cocoon is a 
most successful representation of the stump of a small 
branch broken off near its junction with the main 
stem, and upon which is plainly shown the swelling 
of a bud. 
The caterpillars which make these curious cocoons, 
are no less picturesque looking objects than the 
cocoons. At l is shown a photograph of Dr. Riley’s 
figure of this queer larva or caterpillar. They, are 
covered with long, silky hair, underneath which are 
concealed shorter, stiff hairs, exceedingly sharp at 
the points, and powerfully nettling when they pene¬ 
trate the flesh. Upon some persons, the invisible 
wounds made by these hairs produce swellings, and 
an amount of irritation equivalent to a sting ; in con¬ 
sequence, the caterpillars are classed among the 
stinging larvaB, which are popularly supposed to be 
very poisonous. One man has said that when one of 
HE RURAL NEW-YORKE 
the larvae crawls over the skin on the back of his 
hand, it causes the place to smart for three hours or 
more, and moisture exudes from the skin. In 187G, 
Miss Murtfeldt was experimenting with the caterpil¬ 
lars, and allowed one to fall and strike one of her 
fingers. Irritation speedily followed, and later in the 
day the finger became swollen, and the pain was so 
severe as to prevent sleep during the entire night; 
but it subsided in the morning. Soda, ammonia, 
arnica, camphor and acids were resorted to, but none 
allayed the burning pain. When young, the larvm 
are white, and resemble a flock of cotton wool. They 
cast their skins six times during their caterpillar life, 
gradually becoming darker in color, until they vary 
from a red-brown to a light clay color. When full 
grown, they present the singular appearance of a 
lock of hair possessing sluggish life, and a gliding, 
SOME AFFECTED APPLE TWIGS. Fio. 104. 
snaiHike motion. The figure shows their peculiar 
shape ; the hair rises in a sharp ridge upon the back 
and forms several tufts of a rust-red color. 
I carefully opened one of the cocoons and found 
therein one of the caterpillars quietly taking its win¬ 
ter nap ; but it was nearly naked, its hairy suit 
having been used in the manufacture of its winter 
home. The creatm-es will remain in this condition 
until spring opens, and then will change to pupae 
within the cocoons. After a few days passed in this 
state, the pupa will push open the trapdoor, work 
its way about half out of the cocoon, and the peculiar 
brownish yellow woolly appearing moths shown at 
Fig. 104, will emerge ; at o in the figure is shown one 
of the cocoons with the trapdoor open. This moth 
belongs to a family to which Frof. Comstock has 
given the apt name of Flannel moths, from their 
KEROSENE ATTACHMENT FOR SPRAYER. Fio. 105. 
peculiar woolly appearance caused by their wings 
being clothed with long, curly hairs. Doubtless the 
species which made the cocoons sent in by W. D. S., is 
scientifically known as Megalopye opercularis, and 
has been popularly called the Rabbit moth. 
There are two broods of the caterpillars annually, 
the second brood spinning their cocoons in November 
or December. The larvoe feed only upon the foliage. 
The Paris-green spray, whenever the caterpillars are 
seen, will prove effectual against this curious insect. 
The brown cocoon mentioned by W. D. S., proved 
to be an egg-mass of the well-known Apple-tree Tent- 
caterpillar which makes the large, disgusting-looking 
nests in the crotches of the trees in early summer. 
It is shown in the lower part of Fig. 104. These egg- 
masses are quite conspicuous objects on the leafless 
trees during the winter, and offer a very practicable 
means of fighting this Tent-caterpillar. Gather and 
R. 329 
burn every egg-mass you see, and if this does not ex¬ 
terminate the pest, use the Paris-green spray on the 
foliage in the near vicinity of the nests wherever the 
caterpillars get to work. 
Something About Crimson Clover. 
C. //., Selin’s Grove , Pa .—We are in the latitude of New York 
City. Can Crimson clover be successfully grown by sowing it 
among the corn immediately after the last cultivation ? Would it 
be better to sow the clover immediately before the last cultivation? 
Ans. —You will learn something about this from 
reading the reports now being printed. Our own plan 
would be to cultivate the corn for the last time, then 
sow the clover seed, and follow with a light, narrow 
roller. Sow as early as possible, and thus get the 
heaviest growth before winter sets in. We think 
pasturing in the fall will help it if a large enough 
growth can be secured. Most failures are due to 
“heaving” in spring, rather than to winter’s cold. 
Manure for Peaches ; Grafting. 
E. L. li., No address. —1. What is the best manure for peach 
trees ? How can I keep them in a healthy state ? 2. How shall I 
graft a tree ? When ? 
Ans. —1. Of chemicals, we would use potash and 
bone—about four parts of bone to one of potash (muri¬ 
ate). The trees should have a dressing every spring 
—using, according to one’s means—from 500 to 1,000 
pounds to the acre. If we used farm manure, we 
would add a small amount of potash and phosphate 
in some form. 2. It is better to bud than to graft. 
It is easier and safer. Plant the pits in the fall in a 
well-drained place, having made a little bed of mel¬ 
low soil. Plant them just below the surface, and 
cover with any mulch. In the spring, most of them 
will have cracked open, and may be planted in nursery 
rows or where they are to remain. Budding may be 
done the following summer. 
Kerosene OH and Water. 
Several Subscribers .—We have heard that some of the knapsack 
sprayers are arranged with a device for mixing kerosene and 
water without making an emulsion of the former. How is it 
done ? 
Ans. —Prof. Weed of the Mississippi Experiment 
Station, has issued a bulletin describing this device. 
At Fig. 105 is shown a picture of this kerosene attach¬ 
ment. To the side of an ordinary knapsack sprayer, 
is fastened a square can to hold the kerosene. The 
kerosene runs through a small tube to the bottom of 
the pump in the larger tank, so that whenever the 
pump is worked a certain proportion of kerosene runs 
in with the water and is forced out through the 
nozzle. Under pressure the water and the oil form a 
mechanical mixture which answers every purpose for 
killing insects, and does away with the bother of pre¬ 
paring an emulsion. The great point is to regulate 
the flow of kerosene so as to get an exact proportion 
in the water. You will notice in the picture, a bent 
rod connecting with the tube under the kerosene can, 
and playing up and down on a notched gauge at the 
side of the larger tank By working this up or down, 
the drip from the kerosene can is regulated and the 
notches determine the exact proportion of oil to water. 
For example, in spraying for plant lice, we are advised 
to use one part of kerosene to 20 parts of water. For 
lice on hogs, we would use one part of kerosene to 
two parts of water, and so on. It seems to us that 
this is an excellent device, as kerosene will injure all 
insects that it reaches. 
How To Distinguish Different Potash Salts. 
A. M. A., Point Breeze, N. Y .—How may a farmer distinguish 
different potash salts? I bought one half ton of muriate of pot¬ 
ash of an agent, and when it came, there were two kinds. I 
thought one of them might be sulphate ; it all looks like salt, but 
one sack is finer and more mealy than the others. There was 
nothing on the sacks so that I could tell what was in them. One 
sack was marked with a figure (2) in a square witli “ Germany ” 
under it ; the other had (G. X.) with the word Germany. There 
were lead seals on all the sacks. As there is no analysis on the 
sacks, how do we know whether we are getting a high or low 
grade goods ? Does the per cent of potash vary in muriate ? 
Ans. —These potash salts are all brought from Ger- 
many. They are analyzed, sacked and marked over 
there. Our American dealers generally accept the 
German analysis, and often send the sacks out to 
customers just as they are received. That is evidently 
what was done in your case. This is not right, for the 
farmer has no definite means of knowing “ which is 
which.” The sacks should have been remarked as 
“ muriate ” or “ sulphate.” The figure (2) on the sack 
shows that it contains the “ Double manure salt” or 
double sulphate of potash and magnesia. On the 
average, this means 48 to 52 per cent of sulphate of 
potash, or 2G to 27 per cent of actual potash. Three 
weeks ago we explained the difference between this 
and what is called “ High Grade Sulphate.” The let¬ 
ters “ G. X.” represent muriate of potash. The lead 
seals indicate that the bags were filled in Germany 
and that they were imported under the guaranteed 
analysis. As we said, the dealers generally sell on 
what they call the “ German test,” that is, what they 
buy on. This test calls for 80 to 85 per cent of pure 
muriate, which means 51 to 52 per cent of actual pot¬ 
ash. That is about the extent of variation in the 
standard German goods. 
