1895 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
473 
never want to eat anything we raise. Don’t you want 
to buy one, really ? ” 
“ No, we don’t care to have a goat now.” 
“ They are awful healthy to have around. They 
keep away sickness from everything.” 
“ That so ? ” 
“ Yes ; since we have had goats, we have not had a 
sick hog or cow or horse. Well, we had one sick 
horse, but she was not around where the goats were 
kept.” 
Next time she said, “ Ma is going to raising sheep ; 
she is raising a lamb for Mr. Henry now.” 
“ What is the matter with the lamb’s mother, that 
Mr. Henry had to get somebody to raise it ? ” 
“Oh, she died. He paid $35 for her last fall. She 
was a fine one. He told ma tha^ if she would raise 
the lamb, he would give her a lamb or a ewe in the 
fall. She is going to take the ewe.” 
So the chatter went on, the child, as children do, 
giving a true picture of the atmosphere in which she 
lives. Children are not hypocritical or crafty, and 
their minds are easily read. How suggestive the red 
string on the pig’s tail, the goats, kept because they 
were health-bringers, the belief in luck ! 
Now the question is, What is the practical paper for 
these people ? As the man is industrious, a good 
citizen and, in his way, a good farmer ; but still unedu¬ 
cated, what he wants is a good, practical farm paper, 
as he could not understand anything scientific ; neither 
is his mind able to follow fine-spun theories. The 
paper to help him, must come down to his compre¬ 
hension. Then shall we get Matthew Crawford to 
tell just how to raise strawberries ; get some old 
breeder to tell just how to manage always to get large 
litters of pigs and save them all ; have some veterin¬ 
arian make fun of the red string, so thatliis wife will 
be ashamed to use it again, put all these in a paper, 
and give it to him ? That would be the practical 
paper of some men, but it would be very ixnpi’actical 
for all the good it would do him. Every student of 
human nature knows that such advice to him would 
be like the Dutchman’s advice to the di-owning man, 
which was that he come out of the water—quite prac¬ 
tical and to the point, but impossible of application. 
What that man needs is a new sky over his head, a 
new atmosphere in his house, and the rest will take 
care of itself. The paper which will do that, even 
though it says nothing about raising strawberries, is 
the pi’actical paper. But how give this man a new 
sky ? Aye, there’s the rub ! and I do not claim to 
possess the secret, but the plan adopted by The Rural 
New-Yorker of giving interviews with successful 
men, thereby hoping to stir up the dull ones, and con¬ 
vincing them that success depends on effort, and not 
on luck, would seem to be the most pi-actical way, if 
we could only get these men to read the message. 
Jasper County, Iowa. k. b. watson. 
r][Every query must be accompanied by the name and address of 
the writer to insure attention. Before asking [a question please 
see whether it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask 
only a few questions at one time. Put questions on a separate 
piece of paper.1 
A Prize Wheat Crop for North Carolina. 
S. A. A., Mooresville , J¥. C .—I have four acres well seeded to 
Red clover, which has been cut once, and it is nearly ready to 
cut again. The land is principally sandy loam with some clay, 
and it is all underlaid with clay. It is in good condition, and 
would probably make 15 bushels of wheat per acre without any 
manure or fertilizer. I wish to sow to wheat, and wish to know 
how it should be treated to make the most wheat possible regard¬ 
less of expense. I have had a good deal of experience in wheat 
raising, and 37*4 bushels per acre from eight acres, is the largest 
yield I ever made. This was Fultz wheat. Can I do better than 
to sow this variety on the four acres? My experience has been 
that when I force it, it is liable to lodge. What can I do to stiffen 
the straw ? How would this plan do : After the next crop of 
clover is cut, turn well about five or six inches deep, and keep 
clean with harrow, and the Morgan spading harrow until about 
October 1; then top-dress with 500 pounds of lime and 250 of salt 
per acre, and sow l'A bushel of wheat, and 300 or 400 pounds of 
guano per acre? I don’t know what guano I would better use. 
The land is naturally well drained. 
ANSWERED BY W. F. MASSEY. 
You have a good start for a crop of wheat in hav¬ 
ing a clover sod. You would have a much better 
chance had you given the clover a good dressing of 
mineral fertilizer. I am a firm believer in the economy 
of fertilizing the clover for a wheat crop, rather than 
in putting all the fertilizer on the wheat direct. You 
would have had a greater crop of clover, and hence 
more feed, and the greater crop of clover would have 
done more in the way of nitrification for the wheat 
crop. But you will find, I think, that to get the best 
crop of wheat on that land, it will be unwise to add 
any more nitrogen, in a readily available shape, as it 
will have a tendency to cause too great a growth of 
straw and hence lodging. I would break as soon as 
possible, and break it deeply with a good plow and 
three lioi’ses. Do not replow, but keep the land clean 
until seeding time, by harrowing and cultivating 
shallow. Bear in mind that you cannot get the sur¬ 
face in too good order, and that every time you go 
over it with a harrow or cultivator, you are adding to 
the prospective crop. As to the time for sowing: 
While it will not do to sow here as early as is the 
practice in the Middle wheat States, it is true that 
neai’ly all of our farmers sow too late. The wheat 
should go in the ground by or befoi’e the middle of 
October. I would rather run some risk from the fly, 
than to defer as late as some do here. As to the use 
of fertilizers, I would not advise adding any more 
nitrogen, for I feel sure that the clover has given all 
that will be advisable to use. But I would use phos¬ 
phoric acid and potash freely, not only for the pur¬ 
pose of helping the wheat crop, but for the benefit of 
the clover, for I assume that you will sui’ely seed it 
again. I would use a mixture of acid phosphate and 
muriate of potash, at the rate of 700 pounds of the 
acid phosphate, to 100 pounds of the mux’iate, and put 
on fully 500 pounds per acre. I would prefer to spread 
this and harrow it in just before drilling the wheat, 
rather than attempt to drill it in with the wheat. If 
in the spring, there should be any signs of a lack of 
nitrogen from a pale color in the plant, you can add 
a top-dressing of about 50 pounds of nitrate of soda ; 
but I do not anticipate that there will be any such 
need. With plenty of the mineral fertilizers, and 
what niti’Ogen you get from the clover, there will be 
little danger from lodging. Should the growth seem 
to be getting so lai’ge as to threaten lodging, a dress¬ 
ing of salt will have a tendency to check the nitrifi¬ 
cation, and prevent too rank a growoh ; but it will 
not help the cx’op otherwise. The lime will be all 
right, but leave out the salt this fall at any rate. 
A Talk about Squash Bugs. 
A. M. 8., (treenbush, Wis .—I send some bugs that infest the 
squash and cucumber vines. They made their appearance here 
last summer for the first time. Poison doesn’t have any effect on 
them. They will eat the vines off after they are set for squashes. 
What are they, and what can be done to get rid of them ? 
ANSWERED BY M. V. SLINOERLAND. 
This squash pest is the well-known and very com¬ 
mon Squash bug (Anasa tristis). It is a narrow black- 
ish-brown insect about three-fourths of an inch long. 
It seems to occur throughout the country wherever 
squashes or pumpkins are grown, and has pi-obably 
been an inhabitant of Wisconsin for yeai’S. The 
insect winters in the adult state in sheltered nooks of 
all sorts. It appeal’s on the vines dui’ing the latter 
half of June in this latitude. Egg laying soon begins 
and the clusters of from 10 to 30 comparatively large, 
light brown eggs ai’e conspicuous objects on the under¬ 
sides of the leaves. These eggs hatch in from 10 days 
to two weeks, and the nymphs feed upon the vines. 
Their feeding is done by means of a long, slender 
sucking beak with which they puncture the outer skin 
of the leaf, and then suck out the inner tissues ; most 
writers say that the insect at the same time injects a 
minute drop of a poisonous liquid into the wound, 
thus causing the death of a considerable area of the 
leaf ai’ound the puncture. I am inclined to doubt this 
statement, but it may be supported by indisputable 
evidence which I have not seen. The adult insects 
also feed on the plant in a similar manner, often 
seriously damaging it before the nymphs appear. 
There are said to be several broods of the insect 
each season, eggs having been seen as late as Sep¬ 
tember. This is proving a very hard pest to combat. 
Ordinary insecticides that will not injure the plant, 
will not kill the adults. There is some hope that the 
volatile liquid, carbon bisulphide, can be used success¬ 
fully against this insect, but experiments have not yet 
progressed far enough to warrant its general recom¬ 
mendation to the gardener. In some cases, especially 
with later varieties, I would think that the vines might 
be protected with cloth covered screens of a similar 
nature to those used in protecting cucumbers and 
melons from the Striped Cucumber beetle. However, 
in many cases the insect would not appear until the 
vines got too large for such protectors. On small areas, 
the insect may be effectually and px-ofitably held in 
check by hand-picking the adult bugs and any egg 
clusters that may be found in the latter part of June. 
This spring I started about 10 pumpkin vines in my 
garden, and by June 15, I found that the pest had 
discovered them. During the past two weeks I have 
picked off over 100 adults, and several egg clusters 
from those 10 vines ! I go over the vines about twice 
a week, and now have the insect effectually checked 
for the season. This means some labor, but evei’y 
adult killed now means destruction of the pest for the 
whole season. 
The young bugs—the nymphs—are more susceptible 
to insecticides and may be quite readily killed by 
thorough work with kerosene emulsion diluted with 
about nine parts of water. Great pains must be 
taken, however, to hit each bug with the liquid. 
None of the poisonous insecticides will have any effect 
on the insects in any stage, for they do not obtain 
their food by biting off and swallowing it as does the 
Potato Beetle and the caterpillai’s ; the Squash-bug 
must be combated with the insecticides that kill by 
contact, or a gas that suffocates them. Mixch may be 
done to check the pest in large fields by pulling up 
or plowing under the plants and other rubbish in the 
fields in the fall, eai’ly in September if possible. Do 
not leave any brush heaps or other sheltering places 
for the insects to winter in near the fields. There is 
probably no substance with a smell disagreeable 
enough to repel the bugs, for “ their own odor is so 
vile that if they can endure themselves, they can 
surely endure anything else,” says Prof. Smith of 
New Jei’sey. 
A College Course in Dairy Husbandry. 
ft. 8., Birchton, N. Y. —Does the dairy husbandry course at Cor¬ 
nell fully equip a student for the management of a creamery, or 
would he be required to take some other course? Do you think 
that I could get steady employment in a creamery after taking a 
course of study in that line ? 
Ans. —The Winter Dairy Course at Coi’nell Univer¬ 
sity among other things, aims to fit students for the 
positions of managers of creameries and cheese fac¬ 
tories, without taking any other course than dairy 
husbandry. Whether or not they are fitted, depends 
lax-gely on themselves, and their natural and acquired 
ability. Nearly every student who has been with us 
and who wished a position, has secui-ed one ; so far as 
I know, they are all successful. Those who have 
had some experience with butter and cheese before 
they join the school, are likely to secui’e the best 
positions. i. p. Roberts. 
When to Move a Rose Bed. 
M. E. P., Charleston, W. II. —I have a rose bed whose location 
wish to change. Is It best to move the plants in spring or fall ? 
If the latter, how early may it be done with safety ? 
Ans. —Large rose plants suffer least by a removal 
in eai’ly spring, while still dormant. If it be more con¬ 
venient to transplant them in the fall, it is best done 
early in October. They should be carefully taken up, 
preserving the roots as far as possible, and two-thirds 
of the branches cut away. If they are then l’eplanted 
solidly and well mulched after the ground freezes, 
they will probably come through the winter in safety, 
and soon establish themselves the following spring. 
w. Y. F. 
“ Shingle Hair ” for Mulching Trees. 
W. I)., 8abbathduy Lake, Me. —I am wetting from 100 to 200 apple 
trees every spring, but cannot afford to keep all the ground 
plowed. I have an abundance of what we call “ shingle hair,” 
the refuse from a shingle mill, much like excelsior, but coarser, 
and from pine wood. Could I use this safely for a mulch around 
my trees ? 
Ans. —I have no doubt that this waste would be 
good for mulching apple and other ti’ees. It would 
soon begin to decay, would hold moistui’e, and as it 
rotted, would make some fertilizer ; I have no doubt 
that it would pay well for hauling. The only objec¬ 
tion I can see to it, is as a place for insects to harbor, 
but this same objection could as easily be raised 
against straw or other mulch. A light sprinkling over 
the top of air-slaked lime, would assist decomposition 
and be some annoyance to the insects that might har¬ 
bor in the waste. If not easy of access, however, this 
is not necessary. kdwin hoyt. 
Seeds of Suqar Maples. 
J. J. B., Pocatello, Ida .— I planted some Sugar maple seeds this 
spring after freezing them, but they do not grow. I planted some 
a few years ago, in the fall, and they did not grow. I have planted 
a large number of Box elders, both in the fall and spring, and 
they all came up. The seed is very similar. 
Ans. —Seeds of the maples would better be sown 
just as soon as ripe. Sugar maple seeds ripen in Sep¬ 
tember. Sow them, or scatter them through moist 
(not wet) sand and bury the box until spring. If not 
treated in this way, they will seldom spx-out until 
the second year. 
English Violets in Cold Frames. 
E. 8. 8. A., Northboro, Mass .— Can English violets be made to 
bloom during winter in cold frames ? If so, will Tun R. N.-Y. give 
full instructions for planting and caring for them ? Are the 
plants good for more than one winter ? When should they be 
started ? In short, I wish to know all about the matter. 
Ans. —Violets cannot be relied upon to bloom dur- 
ing winter in your latitude, without more heat and 
pi’otection than is afforded by a cold frame. It is 
true, that if well managed, the season of bloom may 
be much prolonged as compared with similar plants 
in the open ground; but they will cease at once 
when the temperature appi’oaches the fi’eezing point. 
Florists try to keep the air of their violet houses at 
an average of 45 degrees F. Any considei-able varia¬ 
tion either way, quickly injures the bloom. Violets 
resent bottom heat in any degree, and are usually 
grown in solid benches filled up from the gi-ound, or 
in low frames with a steam or hot water pipe running 
through the highest part. Old plants do not bloom 
well, and may be either thrown away, or kept for 
propagating, which they do by means of short run¬ 
ners. The ycung plants are potted off at any time 
from January to May ; grown in well-shaded frames 
dui’ing summer, and planted out in the benches or 
blooming-beds during October. w. v. f. 
