1895 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
621 
a length of about three or four inches, and make a 
peck basketful from two or three square feet. The 
water should be six inches deep, and if rather quickly 
running, is preferable to stagnant water, on account 
of the freedom from slime which collects on the stems 
in still water. This necessitates washing of the 
bunches, which is more troublesome than all the other 
work together. The early winter crop is the most 
profitable, sometimes bringing 50 to 75 cents a basket 
of the size mentioned. Doubtless, it would sell still 
better if put in the square baskets used for straw¬ 
berries. The ordinary basket is deep, conical, about 
eight inches wide at the top, and 12 inches deep, but 
only three or four inches wide at the bottom. To 
grow this early crop to perfection and keep the bright 
green color, avoiding the browning of the leaves by 
the frost, the beds are covered with sashes, as those 
used for hotbeds ; indeed, the same sashes may be 
used for both purposes, as by the time they are wanted 
for the hotbeds, the first market for the cress is over. 
Thus protected, the leaves are not frozen, as the water 
being comparatively warm, the sash preserves an even 
temperature above the freezing point. The later cut¬ 
tings come in the spring or early summer, when the 
demand is not so active as it is earlier. H. s. 
An Ash Borer: the Rhinoceros Beetle. 
R. L. H., Millville, N. ./.—I have a Black ash Wee in my front 
yard, that is literally bored full of holes, extending about an 
inch into the solid wood. There are hundreds of them all over the 
tree from the base to the topmost branches. I send a small box 
of the borers I find in the holes. I also send a sample of some 
beetles which come up out of the earth all around the base of the 
tree by the hundred. They don’t seem to have any particular 
business in life beyond getting up into the air, as they die very 
soon after reaching the surface. Will Prof. Slingerland give us 
some light on them ? 
ANSWKKKD BY M. V. SLINGERLAND. 
From the large branch of the apple tree sent me by 
R. L. II., I learn that the insect which has bored large 
tuunels through and through the tree, is closely allied 
to the well-known pest, the Peach borer. As I found 
only fragments of one or two pupse in the burrows, I 
cannot determine the species with certainty. There 
are two different kinds of these wasp-like moths that 
infest ash, but I am inclined to think that the one in 
question is the one called Podosesia syringae. The eggs 
are probably laid in June on roughened places on the 
bark. The grubs, which hatch from these in about a 
week, at once burrow into the solid wood, extending 
their channels in all directions. Both large and 
small branches and the trunk are tunneled. The 
grub resembles very closely the Peach borer, and be¬ 
comes full grown in early spring. It then extends its 
burrow to the outer bark, where it pupates in a slight 
cocoon. The moths begin emerging in the early part 
of June. There is thus one brood each year. The 
insect attacks lilac and English ash, also. It will 
prove a very difficult insect to fight, as its presence is 
detected only after the mischief has been completed. 
Any wash that would prevent its injuries, would be 
impracticable, for the whole tree would have to be 
covered with it. As their burrows usually follow for 
some distance the center of the branch, it would be 
difficult to dig them out without destroying the whole 
branch. I can suggest but one thing ; cut down and 
burn the tree, root and branch, thus destroying all 
the young borers that have, doubtless, recently 
hatched, and are now at work. 
The large beetle is known as the Rhinoceros beetle 
(Xyloryctes satyrus;. Its larva or grub lives under¬ 
ground upon roots, and differs from the common 
White grubs only in being much larger, and by having 
a black head instead of a red one. The beetles are also 
closely allied to the May beetles. I do not find any 
account of their occurring in injurious numbers. The 
beetles were recorded as appearing from holes around 
ash trees in the nursery of Isaac Hicks of Long Island 
as long ago as 1868. 
A Grape Vine Leaf Eater. 
J. A. I., Piney Point, Md. —I have been busy for the past week 
in killing worms on my grape vines. I have raised grapes for 40 
years, but never saw anything like them before; they range in 
size from those so small that they can hardly be seen, to those 
five-eighths to three-quarters of an inch long. They feed 111 solid 
ranks head to head like cigars in a box, on either side of the leaf, 
and sometimes on both sides, one gang immediately underneath 
the other. The larger ones are yellow, marked with black dotted 
bands around their bodies, and look much like the parsley worm 
except in size. I wish to know what kind of moth or insect lays 
the eggs, and tbe best way to exterminate them. I think it would 
be impossible to kill the worms by spraying with Paris-green, for 
they could not be reached, and the fruit is in such an advanced 
stage, that I would be afraid to use it. Some of my grapes will 
soon be ripe. The worms have not troubled my apples, pears, 
plums or cherries, or, in fact, so far as I can see, anything else on 
the place. 
Ans. —This grape pest, whose habits and appearance 
J. A. I. well describes, is doubtless the American 
Procris (Procris (Harrisina) Americana). The adult 
insect is a small, narrow-winged moth of a blue-black 
color, with an orange-yellow collar ; the wings when 
expanded measure about an inch across. The females 
first appear in June and lay their eggs in clusters ot 
20 or more on the under sides of the leaves The cater¬ 
pillars hatching from these eggs, feed in the peculiar 
manner deseribedin the query, and become full grown 
in August, probably earlier as far South as Maryland. 
They then retire to some sheltered spot where they 
construct tough oval cocoons, within which they soon 
change to pupae. In about two weeks the moths, 
emerge, and soon deposit eggs for a second brood of 
caterpillars which become full grown, spin their co¬ 
coons, and change to pupae before winter. They 
hibernate as pupse, the moth appearing the next 
spring. I would think that Paris-green might be used 
with safety on the first brood, but when the fruit is 
as far along as J. A. I.’s, I would hand-pick the 
colonies of the caterpillars, or give them a good strong 
dose of hellebore ; this substance would not poison 
the fruit as the Paris-green would. m. v. s. 
Another Omnivorous Insect Pest. 
R. E. II., South Haven, Mich.—I have grown cauliflower for sev¬ 
eral years, and this season have noticed that a small, black bug 
eats the bark just below the surface of the ground. The plant 
turns yellow and wilts similar to those attacked by root maggots. 
They are affected only in the seed bed. I mail a few specimens. 
Can you give me any light ? 
Ans. —The beetle has been determined by a special¬ 
ist to be Otiorhynchus ovatus. It has received the 
common name of Graveyard beetle in Ohio. Its native 
home is in Siberia, but it has spread rapidly over the 
United States, having been recently found in New 
Mexico. In Ohio, the grubs breed freely on roots of 
Blue grass, and they are known to attack strawberry 
roots. Allied species are known to be destructive in 
both the adult and grub stages, and R. E. H.’s experi¬ 
ence shows that this species is no exception. The 
adults often swarm into houses. It will be difficult 
to fight them in the adult state. I can now only sug¬ 
gest that the bed be kept covered with a frame with 
a muslin or cheese cloth top, thus preventing the in¬ 
sects from entering. M. v. s. 
Quarter-Crack in Horse's Hoof. 
I. I. M.. Richmond County, N. Y. —My horse has a quarter-crack 
in the left front foot, it has been so since the past spring. It 
seemed to be growing together nicely, but has again cracked up 
to the coronet. Can it be cured ? If so, how should it be treated? 
Ans. —The quarter-crack can be cured, or, rather, 
grown out, if properly treated. First apply a bar- 
FOR CLOSING QUARTER-CRACK. Fio. 166. 
A shows how the heel should be rasped to avoid pressure and pre¬ 
vent movement. B. Nails in position to close the crack. C. The 
V-shaped notch at upper end of crack, sides three-fourths to 
one inch. 
shoe, rasping away the bearing surface of the detached 
portion of the heel, so as to bring no pressure upon it. 
Then secure immobility of the walls of the crack, 
either with quarter-crack clamps, or, in their absence, 
by driving two or three small horse-shoe nails through 
the edge of the crack and clinching so as to hold the 
edges firmly together. (See Fig. 166.) Apply an 
active blister to the coronet to favor a more rapid 
growth of horn. Allow the horse to rest with only 
walking exercise, until an unbroken hoof has grown 
down from the hair a distance of at least one-half to 
three-fourths of an inch. This will require four to 
five weeks. The horse can best be placed on pasture 
during this time if he can be kept from running; 
otherwise, in a box stall or small yard. When the 
hoof has grown down as directed above, a V-shaped 
notch is to be cut to the quick at the upper end of the 
crack to prevent the crack extending upward. (Fig. 
166.) The horse may now be used carefully at a mod¬ 
erate pace, if desirable. Continue the use of the bar- 
shoe, with the pressure removed from that heel until 
the crack has grown off, which will require several 
months. F. L. K. 
Nitrate of Soda for Strawberries. 
II. I., Hammonton, N. J. —In several numbers of Thk R. N.-Y., I 
have seen cautions as to the use of nitrate of soda, as a top-dress¬ 
ing in the spring for bearing strawberries. In southern New 
Jersey, we have been in the habit of top-dressing our beds, and 
usually with good results, using from 150 to 250 pounds of nitrate 
per acre, besides varying quantities of bone, dissolved bone, 
South Carolina rock, and muriate of potash. Would it not be 
equally good for the bed, and cheaper at present prices of each, 
to apply sufficient decorticated cotton-seed meal, raw bone flour, 
and potash, this fall, say, at the last hoeing, and get the benefit 
the following spring, using enough cotton-seed meal to give the 
same amount of nitrogen as we get from the soda ? Our soil is 
light sandy loam, and the strawberries are grown in matted rows. 
Ans.—W e think you will obtain good results from 
the cotton-seed meal and bone if applied early in the 
fall. Of course, much depends on the character of 
the soil as to whether nitrate is needed. The chief 
advantage of the nitrate, aside from its comparative 
cheapness, is that it gives the nitrogen in a very 
soluble form. It is a form that does not require the 
action of bacteria to render soluble. On good soil, 
well tilled, we obtain good results with ground bone 
and potash, but the bone should be applied early. 
Renovating Old Asparagus and Rhubarb Beds. 
G. O. R., Providence, R. /.—I. I have just bought a place which 
has a one-fourth-acre bed of asparagus, 20 years old, which has 
spread thickly all over the ground, and grows thin, spindling and 
very green, so that it does not 8e ^ readily. It has been very much 
neglected. How can the bed be Improved so as to be satisfactory 
for the market and table, next season ? 2. There is also a long 
row of rhubarb plants, grown together very thickly, and the 
stalks are very spindling. Would you advise thinning them, or 
resetting the old plants, or replacing with new roots ? I presume 
these old plants are fully 20 years old. 
Ans. — 1 . Our way to treat such a plot of asparagus, 
would be to set another. You might plow up the 
asparagus so as to leave the old roots three or four 
feet apart, and then manure heavily ; but we doubt 
whether you would get satisfactory shoots as soon as 
you would by setting another bed. 2. The rhubarb 
plants should be thinned out. When the roots are so 
intermingled, the leaf-stalks are necessarily small. 
Manure, of course, would further increase their size. 
Crimson Clover and Buckwheat Fertilizers for Timothy. 
C. A. L., Brookton, N. Y. —1. I have sown Crimson clover with 
my buckwheat this season. If it do well, and I cut a crop next 
season for hay, will it grow a second crop the same season to be 
turned under in the fall, or will it die after the first cutting ? 2. I 
did not sow any fertilizer with my buckwheat. Would it do to 
sow muriate of potash and bone now, or should they be harrowed 
in? 3. The dry weather has injured my Timothy meadows this 
season. Is there anything I can do this fall to help them? How 
would it do to sow nitrate of soda, muriate of potash and plaster 
this fall, or would it be better to wait until spring? What pro¬ 
portions should I use? 
Ans. —L. Crimson clover is an annual—after pro¬ 
ducing a crop of seed, the plant dies. Cut before the 
seed head forms, the plant will continue to grow. 
This was tried successfully at the Rural Grounds two 
years ago, but unless the plant made a very heavy 
growth, it would be too short to make profitable hay. 
2. You may sow the muriate and bone at once if you 
wish. 3. Never use nitrate of soda in the fall. It is 
too soluble, and most of it will be lost. Instead of 
plaster, use some form of phosphoric acid like bone 
or dissolved rock. You might, this fall, sow all you 
feel like affording of a mixture of three parts fine 
boue and one of muriate of potash. In the spring, 
add 150 pounds per acre of nitrate of soda. 
Crimson Clover for Corn and Potatoes. 
G. E. P., North East, Pa. —I have a moderately fertile Held on 
which I have just cut a very light crop of Medium clover, and I 
wish to grow corn on the field next year. Allowing that Crimson 
clover is moderately successful in this locality, would you advise 
plowing the field now, and sowing Crimson clover to be plowed 
under next spring? We cannot use barnyard manure. How 
would you advise treating a part of the same field on which I wish 
to grow potatoes ? I plant potatoes about June 10, and intend 
fertilizing with about 1,500 pounds of commercial fertilizer to the 
acre. 
Ans. —VVe would plow the ground at once, and sow 
at the rate of about 12 pounds per acre of Crimson 
clover. VVe would like to add 200 pounds each of bone 
and muriate of potash per acre. This will, without 
doubt, improve the clover, and will not be lost in any 
event. The chances are fair that the clover will sur¬ 
vive the winter. If not, it will make a strong growth 
this fall, and provide considerable vegetable matter. 
This advice will hold good for the potatoes as welt as 
the corn. If the clover live through the winter, we 
would plow it under when in full bloom, and, if the 
soil is light, roll it down. Then plant the potatoes in 
drills crosswise of the furrows—using half the fer¬ 
tilizer broadcast. 
Some Forms of Potash. 
W. C. J., Norwich, Canada.— What is muriate of potasli ? How 
do unleached ashes compare with it ? For how much per ton is 
it generally sold ? 
Ans. —As explained under Primer Science last 
spring, muriate of potash is a form of this substance 
dug out of the mines in Germany. A good way to 
understand what it is, is to say that “ common salt” 
is composed of a mixture of two chief substances— 
soda and chlorine. Put potash in the place of the 
soda, and you would have muriate of potash. The 
potash in wood ashes is in the form of a carbonate, 
and, pound for pound, such potash is worth more than 
that in the muriate. The latter is much cheaper, how¬ 
ever. The muriate contains about 50 per cent of pure 
potash, and sells at $45 per ton in New York. That 
means 4 cents a pound for the potash. Wood ashes 
containing live per cent, or 100 pounds of potash, may 
sell at $10 per ton, or 10 cents a pound. Our best 
farmers figure in this way, and buy the form that 
gives the cheapest potash. 
Growing Magnolia Soulangeana from Seed. 
M. M. W., West Newton, Mass. —Will the seeds of Magnolia 
Soulangeana grow without any special care ? If so, when should 
they be planted ? 
Ans. —The seeds of Magnolia Soulangeana do not 
require any special treatment. Plant them at once in 
drills an inch deep : keep the soil free from weeds, 
and many of the seeds will sprout next spring, unless 
you have permitted them to get too dry. 
