245 
Advice  About  a  Greenhouse 
1.  Can  you  tell  me  where  I  can  get  any 
information  about  greenhouse  manage¬ 
ment,  the  best  crops  to  raise  and  the 
time  to  sow,  etc. V  1  wont  to  keep  it  go¬ 
ing  late  in  the  Fall  for  my  own  use.  2. 
How  much  salt  should  he  used  on  an 
asparagus  bed ?  Some  say  it  should  be 
white  with  salt.  Does  it  need  it  as  a 
fertilizer  or  to  kill  the  weeds? 
Oswego,  N.  Y.  F.  H.  c. 
1,  From  the  above  question  one  would 
infer  that  the  object  is  to  use  the  green¬ 
house  during  the  Fall  and  possibly  in 
the  Spring,  and  allow  it  to  stand  idle 
during  the  Winter.  There  are  many  va¬ 
ried  uses  to  which  a  greenhouse  can  be 
put,  depending  chiefly  upon  the  desire 
of  the  operator  and  the  market  that  is 
to  be  depended  upon  for  the  disposal  of 
the  product.  Vegetables  are  probably 
more  easily  grown  by  an  inexperienced 
amateur  than  flowers,  and  the  varieties 
most  easily  handled  would  be  radishes, 
lettuce  and  tomatoes.  Cucumbers  also 
are  grown  very  extensively,  and  pay  well, 
though  if  grown  in  the  Fall,  and  dark 
foggy  weather  prevails  for  any  length  of 
time,  mildew  is  sure  to  cause  serious  loss. 
Radishes  can  be  sown  any  time, 
and  Cardinal  Globe  sown  in  rich  soil, 
and  watered  freely,  will  mature  in 
five  to  six  weeks.  Try  sifting  the  seed 
of  radishes  and  sow  the  largest  seed,  and 
you  will  have  your  crop  mature  a  week 
earlier  than  unsifted  seed.  Grand  Rap¬ 
ids  lettuce  is  easily  grown  and  should 
be  planted  6x0  to  0x8  inches  apart,  in 
soil  that  has  a  heavy  application  of  rotted 
manure  thoroughly  incorporated  with  it. 
Mulch  this  crop  with  tobacco  stems,  or 
fumigate  with  tobacco  every  week  to  keep 
aphis  in  check,  or  your  crop  will  not  be 
very  salable.  This  insect  is  the  same 
Color  as  the  lettuce  and  is  a  persistent 
breeder  if  not  controlled. 
Tomatoes  can  be  grown  as  a  Fall  or 
Spring  crop.  Plant  good  strong  plants 
in  the  house  about  August  15  and  keep 
them  growing  vigorously.  Plant  18x18 
inches  apart,  train  to  single  stem  and 
support  either  with  cane  stakes  or  by 
fastening  a  string  overhead,  and  to  base 
of  plant  and  twisting  the  string  around 
the  plant  as  it  grows.  Spray  either  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  or  fungine,  preferably 
the  latter  for  mildew.  Jar  the  plant 
each  day  so  as  to  cause  the  pollen  to  fer¬ 
tilize  the  blossoms.  Keep  night  temper¬ 
ature  55  deg.  to  00  deg.  and  day  TO  deg. 
to  75  deg.  Water  several  times  each 
week  and  mulch  with  rotted  manure 
when  a  large  lot  of  the  fruit  is  half 
grown.  The  best  variety  for  Full  use 
is  Lorillard.  for  Spring  planting  Comet, 
John  Baer  and  Bonny  Best  are  as  good 
as  any  you  can  plant. 
Vegetable  plants  are  a  money-making 
crop  with  some  men  who  have  a  small 
greenhouse  and  some  sash  to  use  on  a 
cold  frame.  I  kuow  of  one  man  having 
a  small  greenhouse  who  grows  Chrysan¬ 
themums  in  the  Fall,  followed  by  let¬ 
tuce,  and  in  Spring  grows  vegetable 
plants.  Last  season  he  sold  over  100.000 
cabbage  plants  at  an  average  of  $4.50 
per  1,000.  These  plants  were  trans¬ 
planted  to  flats  and  hardened  off  in  cold 
frames.  Seed  was  sown  end  of  January. 
Tomato  seed  cau  he  sown  end  of  Febru¬ 
ary  or  March  and  during  March  egg- 
plaut,  pepper,  etc.,  cau  be  sown.  Do  not 
carry  too  high  a  temperature  for  these 
plants,  or  you  will  have  soft  stock  that 
will  be  undesirable  for  sale.  Try  to  have 
the  plants  a  dark  rich  green,  short  and 
stocky.  Transplant  into  boxes  -V2  inch¬ 
es  deep  and  any  convenient  size  you  cau 
make  by  sawing  old  boxes  in  halves. 
The  plants  should  be  1  to  two  inches 
each  way  in  the  flat.  Do  not  use  much 
manure  in  the  soil  and  do  not  over- 
water. 
Chrysanthemum  plants  should  be  plant¬ 
ed  during  May  and  .lime,  and  if  you  de¬ 
sire  to  plant  this  crop  it  will  pay  to 
procure  a  copy  of  Smith’s  Manual  on  the 
Chrysanthemum,  price  50  cents.  There 
are  so  many  features  essential  to  suc¬ 
cess  in  growing  this  Autumn  crop  that 
it  would  take  a  very  long  article  to  de¬ 
tail  them  all. 
2.  I  have  spoken  to  an  asparagus  grow¬ 
er  who  uses  salt,  in  his  beds,  and  has  used 
it  at  same  rate  of  application  each  sea¬ 
son  for  the  past  10  years.  lie  says  he 
does  imt  know  if  it  is  a  benefit,  but  be 
does  know  it  is  not  an  injury,  aud  there 
Z57><?  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
are  no  weeds  to  contend  with.  He  uses 
eight  tons  per  acre  each  year,  arid  I  do 
know  he  has  the  finest  asparagus  offered 
for  sale  on  the  Lancaster,  Pa.,  markets. 
Not  one  season,  but  each  and  every  sea¬ 
son.  E.  J.  W. 
Threadless 
ball  valves 
Can  be  opened  up  entirely, 
every  part  removed,  in  less 
than  two  minutes.  Without 
lowering  the  pressure,  without  stop  ¬ 
ping  the  engine,  without  drawing 
the  liquid  from  the  pump. 
Any  valve  can  be  flushed  in  a  few 
seconds,  and  while  the  engine  is 
running. 
The  valve  seats  have  no  thread  what¬ 
ever.  Set  screw  (A),  and  Yoke  (B) 
hold  cover  in  place.  Seats  are  re¬ 
versible — a  new  valve  without  cost 
in  a  moment! 
Grafting  Large  Grapevines 
I  would  like  to  tell  F.  A.  D.,  page  75, 
what  to  do  with  that  wild  grapevine,  for 
it  is  as  easy  to  graft  the  grape  as  it  is 
to  “roll  off  a  log."  If  he  will  remove 
the  soil  six  or  eight  inches  deep,  more 
than  likely  he  will  find  two  roots  on 
opposite  sides  of  stalk,  one-half  to  one 
inch  in  diameter.  Detach  these  from  the 
trunk  and  place  a  block  under  them  a 
few  inches  from  end.  Now  split  the 
roots  through  center,  make  your  graft 
with  a  two-inch  tailoring  slope,  and  if 
not  an  expert  grafter,  place  diagonally 
through  root,  tying  in  place  with  cotton 
string.  By  placing  diagonally  you  get  two 
cambium  connections;  replace  ground 
and  pack  firmly,  leaving  one  eye  of  -graft 
above  ground.  You  need  not  bother  them 
any  more  this  year.  I  have  changed 
many  wild  vines,  Vitis  cordifolia,  into 
cultivated  varieties  in  this  way  and  have 
had  them  make  as  much  as  15  feet  of 
growth  the  first  season. 
Now  as  for  laying  vines  under  ground 
for  some  distance;  the  year  before  last  I 
dug  a  trench  10  feet  long,  six  inches  deep, 
from  a  Woodruff  Red  vine,  laid  a  vine 
in  it  to  a  post,  tied  in  place,  filled  in 
trench  and  gathered  almost  a  bushel  of 
grapes  last  season,  so  it  is  immaterial 
how  far  you  lay  the  vine.  I  have  seen 
them  laid  20  feet.  I  have  a  cedar  tree 
10  feet  across,  00  foot  high,  that  is  cov¬ 
ered  with  a  grapevine,  and  I  cannot  see 
that  the  vine  has  hurt  the  tree  any,  so 
I  would  cut  the  trunk  of  that  vine  off 
about  four  or  five  inches  below  ground, 
take  a  keyhole  saw  or  a  large  chisel,  and 
quarter  the  stalk,  then  place  a  graft  of 
Diamond  in  one  cleft,  Moore’s  Early  in 
another,  Woodruff  in  one  and  whatever 
was  my  favorite  in  the  fourth  one;  wrap 
cotton  cord  around  and  tie,  fill  in  the 
earth  firmly,  and  when  they  grow  suffi¬ 
ciently  twist  them  into  one  stem  to  a 
convenient  height,  and  then  train  branches 
from  it  over  the  tree,  thus  having  some¬ 
thing  novel  as  well  as  useful.  You  can 
place  the  grafts  any  time  before  the  buds 
swell,  but.  look  out  and  remove  the  many 
sprouts  that  start  below  the  grafts. 
Last  year  some  almost  unbelievable 
annual  growths  were  commented  on,  and 
to  the  uninitiated,  no  doubt,  were  past  be¬ 
lief:  but  a  few  years  ago  I  received  some 
cuttings  of  V.  vinifera  variety  (Aramon 
of  France)  crossed  with  V.  rupestris, 
that  I  grafted  in  three-year-old  Concord 
stock,  the  fifteenth  of  April,  and  by  Fall 
it  was  as  large  ns  a  hoe  handle  to  the 
height  of  six  feet — top  of  trellis — where 
it  branched,  one  arm  reaching  23  feet  and 
the  other  151  feet,  and  each  arm  had  sev¬ 
eral  side  branches  that  bore  clusters  of 
fruit  the  next  year.  but.  that  Winter  10 
below  zero  killed  it  back  to  where  grafted, 
so  under  favorable  conditions  there  is  no 
tolling  what  nature  will  do. 
Kentucky.  0.  ii.  wood. 
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