296 
Z ~he  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
A  Jacket  Dress. — The  figuro  display- 
oil  at  tin1  left  of  the  seen  ml  picture  shows 
a  jacket  dress,  of  which  there  are  many 
models  for  Spring  wear,  combining  cloth 
with  lalTetn.  In  this  ease  the  skirt  is  of 
gabardine,  with  no  trimming  except  a 
simulated  hern.  The  waist  is  of  tail  el  a 
of  the  game  color,  placed  in  rather  shal¬ 
low  inverted  pleats,  with  a  gabardine 
yoke;  the  full  sleeves  are  of  taffeta,  with 
dt-ep  cuffs  of  gabardine,  and  the  Having 
pleated  peplum  is  bordered  with  a  hand 
of  gabardine,  put  on  Hat  over  the  pleats. 
The  little  high -collared  chemisette  is  but¬ 
toned  in  front,  but  we  find  among  new 
neckwear  many  chemisettes  fastening  at 
the  back,  having  a  high  collar  and  pleated 
nr  embroidered  front,  such  as  were  worn 
several  years  ago.  The  hat  pictured  is  a 
very  smart  Spring  model  of  fine  straw 
aiul  silk,  having  a  black  fancy  feather 
standing  up  tit  the  back.  The  belt,  of  the 
dress  is  of  gabardine  with  an  inset  of  col¬ 
ored  embroidery.  One  dress  of  (his  style 
seen  recently  reversed  the  use  of  the  ma¬ 
terial  here  pictured,  having  a  plain  gab¬ 
ardine  jacket  with  silk  sleeves  and  a  cir¬ 
cular  peplum,  the  .skirt  being  ol  taffeta, 
very  full,  trimmed  with  two  three-inch 
bands  of  gabardine,  cut  with  waved  edge, 
and  laid  on  quite  flat.  This  dress  was 
dark  bottle,  green.  Another  color  that 
will  enjoy  Spring  favor  is  the  d'-ep  shade 
known  its  midnight  blue,  which  is  pop¬ 
ular  for  these  walking  dresses,  and  also 
for  tailored  suits  of  fine  serge. 
Cotton  Yoii.k.- — The  figure  at  the  right 
is  wearing  a  very  plain  dress  of  striped 
voile,  which  suggests  a  useful  model  for 
Summer  wash  d refines.  As  shown  it  is  a 
plain  two-tier  skirt  and  surplice  waist, 
wilt  no  trimming  whatever  except  a  black 
satin  necktie  with  long  ends.  The  model 
selected  was  pale  green  and  white,  very 
cool  looking.  The  elbow  sleeves  merely 
have  a  ruffle  of  the  goods,  with  Ihe 
stripes  running  round  it,  and  there  is  a 
detachable  organdie  collar  and  chemi¬ 
sette.  In  making  up  a  satin-striped  voile 
it  is  very  pretty  to  pleat  the  top  tier  so 
that  only  the  satin  stripe  shows  at  the 
top.  flaring  out  below.  We  also  see  the 
striped  voile,  and  other  striped  materials, 
made  up  in  two-tiered  skirts  with  the 
stripes  running  around,  instead  of  up  and 
down :  this  is  very  smart,  and  becom¬ 
ing  to  a  tall  thin  wearer,  but  short,  plump 
women  must  never  venture  on  this.  It  is 
not  desirable,  either,  where  there  is  a 
satin  stripe,  as  the  effect  of  the  light 
brings  out  the  satin  stripe  to  the  detri¬ 
ment  of  the  background.  One  handsome 
dress  seen  in  a  Fifth  Avenue  shop  was  of 
midnight  blue  and  white  striped  Courgette 
crape;  the  model  was  the  same  as  the 
one  pictured,  hut  had  the  stripes  running 
around  the  flounces.  The  waist  was  as 
pictured,  the  little  tie  being  of  the  same 
material,  with  ball  ends.  At  the  waist 
line  the  bodice  is  laid  over  the  skirt  with 
a  small  piping  at  the  seam  as  some  of  the 
old-fashioned  dresses  were  made,  and  this 
disguises  the  closing,  its  the  surplice  fold 
comes  over  to  a  placket  at  the  side,  which 
does  not  show.  The  hat  shown  with  this 
dress  is  one  of  the  tricorne  toques,  higher 
at  the  hack,  having  the  brim  facet  1  with 
fine  black  straw,  the  crown  and  upp-r 
side  of  the  brim  being  smoothly  covered 
with  silk.  There  is  no  trimming.  This 
is  a  useful  hat  for  Spring  wear.  For 
later  wear  there  arc  attractive  stiles  with 
drooping  brims  of  Leghorn,  horsehair  and 
Tuscan  straw.  A  girl  who  has  to  wear 
the  same  hat  with  several  different 
dresses  will  do  well  to  get  one  of  black 
chip  or  horsehair  trimmed,  perhaps,  with 
black  ribbon  velvet  and  bunches  of  small 
flowers  which  show  no  one  color  predom¬ 
inating;  there  are  pretty  arrangements  in 
so-called  field  flowers  that  fit  in  with 
more  than  one  color.  A  nice  black  straw 
looks  well  with  white  and  colored  Sum¬ 
mer  dresses,  and  is  more  becoming  to  a 
girl  who  gets  very  tanned  or  sunburnt 
than  a  light-colored  lnit.  However,  Tus¬ 
can  straw,  which  is  returning  to  favor 
once  more,  is  becoming  to  most  wearers. 
We  saw  a  Tuscan  hat  with  drooping  brim 
trimmed  with  black  velvet  and  four  sum II 
bunches  of  little  peaches,  placed  at  in¬ 
tervals  around  the  crown,  that  was  espe¬ 
cially  pretty  ;  another  had  small  hunches 
of  red  clover  and  cornflowers. 
A  Boy's  Sr  it.  -The  suit  for  n  little 
hoy  shown  at  the  left,  in  the  first  pic¬ 
ture,  is  of  brown  linen.  The  trousers 
are  -straight  and  plain  ;  few  of  the  new 
suits  have  knickerbockers,  as  the  general 
style  is  quite  snug-fitting,  like  the  fash¬ 
ionable  suits  of  their  elders.  The  blouse, 
long  enough  to  come  almost  to  the  knee, 
is  very  plain,  but  1ms  the  effect  of  a  panel 
in  front,  with  a  pleat  at  each  side  It  is 
fastened  invisibly  with  snap  fasteners  at 
the  left  side,  the  three  buttons  on  the 
pleat  at  each  side  being  merely  a  trim¬ 
ming.  As  shown,  the  suit  was  of  brown 
linen,  with  brown  bone  buttons.  An  in¬ 
teresting  feature  is  the  )  ockot  on  each 
side,  which  is  extended  at  the  top  to  form 
two  straps,  under  which  the  belt  is 
slipped.  The  belt  may  he  of  leather  if 
preferred,  but  in  the  picture 'it  is  heavy 
white  or  natural  linen,  like  the  collar  and 
cuffs.  The  belt  is  made  double,  and  the 
collar  and  cuffs  hemmed,  then  finished 
with  a  coarse  buttonhole  stitch  of  mercer¬ 
ized  floss  of  any  desired  color;  yellow, 
delft  blue  or  deep  rose  will  look  well  with 
a  brown  or  blue  suit.  This  is  an  attrac¬ 
tive  finish,  is  very  inexpensive,  and  the 
little  suit  is  in  excellent  taste,  for  the 
children's  clothes  sold  by  expensive  spe¬ 
cially  shops  are  always  marked  by  sim¬ 
plicity  and  careful  finish,  rather  than 
elaboration. 
A  CllALLIE  Fbock. — The  little  girl  in 
the  center  is  dressed  in  flowered  challie, 
which  is  seen  in  many  attractive  pat- 
terns  for  about  50  cents  a  yard.  The 
frock  seen  was  of  material  having  a  white 
ground,  with  a  pattern  of  blue  and  old 
rose  (lowers.  The  plain  gathered  skirt 
was  shirred  on  two  cords  at  the  waist, 
with  a  one-inch  frill  standing  up  above 
the  shirring.  There  was  an  under-blouse 
or  gm m pc  of  white  Brussels  net.  gath¬ 
ered  at  waist  and  neck,  and  trimmed 
across  the  front  with  two  little  frills  of 
Valenciennes  lace;  the  round  neck  was 
also  finished  with  a  lace  frill.  Buffed 
sleeves  of  elbow  length  had  two  lace 
frills  about  the  middle,  and  were  finished 
with  another  frill  at  the  edge.  Over  this 
guimpe  was  it  little  bolero  jacket  of  the 
challie,  sleeveless  ami  rounded  in  front; 
this  was  finished  all  around  with  a  pip¬ 
ing  of  rose-colored  silk,  the  same  shade 
as  the  pink  flower  in  the  challie.  This  is 
a  very -simple  dress,  hut  extremely  pretty, 
and  will  be  found  becoming  to  girls  of 
from  six  to  12  years.  We  saw  recently  a 
challie  with  twim-colored  ground  with  a 
little  garnet  and  black  sprig  that  would 
make  up  very  prettily,  while  dark  blue 
with  a  colored  sprig  would  be  excellent, 
the  white  guimpe  relieving  the  serviceable 
dark  color. 
A  Carter's  Smock. — The  little  dress 
at  the  right  was  an  imported  one  modeled 
February  3  9,  1916. 
on  tlm  carter's  smock  worn  by  old-time 
Lnglisb  farm  laborers.  Mottling  could  be 
plainer;  it  is  merely  a  yoke,  broad  enough 
to  drop  on  the  shoulders,  with  full  sleeves 
and  full  skirt,  flic  fullness  being  smocked 
iu  contrasting  colors.  The  model  was 
dark  blue,  with  smocking  of  yellow,  rose 
and  dull  blue,  done  with  mercerized  floss, 
and  there  were  little  collar  and  cuffs  of 
white  linen.  The  smock  is  fastened  in 
front,  and  it  will  he  noticed  that  there  is 
even  a  little  nick  at  the  bottom  of  the  side 
seam,  like  the  qriginal  smock.  As  shown 
it  is  a  little  girl’s  dress,  but  it  is  also 
made  for  small  boys  not  yet  promoted  to 
more  masculine  garments,  and  is  very  pic- 
turcsqiie  and  becoming. 
• 
Smocks  a.xii  Blouses. — The  peasant 
smocks  of  white  and  colored  linen  so 
popular  last  year  are  again  offered  for 
garden  and  country  wear,  and  are  both 
prottv  and  comfortable.  The  best  models 
follow  tin*  lines  of  the  real  peasant’s 
smock.  Bnssian,  French  or  Knglish,  tin* 
fullness  gauged  or  smocked,  the  sleeves 
long  and  gathered  into  a  cuff.  Russian 
blouses  of  efiiffon.  (Jeorgette  crape,  or 
crepe  do  chine,  to  wear  with  separate 
skirts,  are  new  and  dressy;  they  usually 
have  the  fullness  gathered  into  a  yoke, 
and  a  close-titling  hell  to  which  the  pep- 
lttm  is  attached.  Sometimes  the  yoke  or 
collar  and  cuffs  are  of  taffeta,  a  taffeta 
hem  finishing  the  peplum,  while  some  sort 
of  gimp  heads  the  hem.  Bcplmus  appear 
on  many  skirts,  and  a  plain  silk  skirt 
that  can  lie  made  wide  enough  for  present 
requirements  can  be  used  very  attrac¬ 
tively  with  a  blouse  of  this  type,  form¬ 
ing  an  attractive  dress.  There  are  very 
pretty  blouses  for  wear  with  separate 
skirts  of  satin-striped  marquisette  lined 
with  while  chiffon,  combinations  of  white 
with  black  or  colors. 
Trim  mi  nos  axd  Decorations. — Bicot 
edged  ribbon  is  seen  among  trimmings, 
put  on  like  a  braid,  or  in  little  pleadings. 
Basseuient cries  showing  metal  effects  are* 
used  as  insets  in  the  belts  that  accom¬ 
pany  the  Russian  blouses.  Some  vivid 
shades  of  cerise,  blue,  green  and  yellow 
are  seen  in  trimmings  suggested  by  the 
Bakst  costumes  of  the  Russian  dancers. 
Some  of  these  vivid  shades  are  seen  in 
collars,  cuffs  and  vestees.  Much  more 
becoming  are  some  of  the  Spanish  styles 
in  neckwear,  which  include  attractive 
wide  pleated  collars  of  creamy  net  and 
batiste.  The  Spanish  idea  extends  to 
some  very  pretty  mantillas  for  evening 
wear.  Some  of  these  mantillas  of  inessa- 
1  i in*  or  other  soft  silk  tire  in  shape  like  an 
old-time  pelerine,  finished  all  around  tic? 
edge  with  a  gathered  bouillon  of  the  mate¬ 
rial  about  two  inches  wide.  Bouillons  are 
a  frequent  trimming  on  skirts,  sometimes 
put  on  straight,  and  sometimes  with  a 
slight  curve  or  ripple.  One  full  gathered 
skirt  of  crepe  de  chine  was  trimmed  with 
two  of  these  rippled  bouillons  four  inches 
wide,  one  about  eight  inches  from  the 
hem.  the  other  about  20  inches'  above  the 
first.  Between  the  two  bouillons,  mid¬ 
way,  was  a  trimming  formed  of  heavy 
cable  cord  covered  with  the  crepe  do 
chine,  (wo  cords  close  together,  put  on 
quite  straight;  at  intervals  of  about  15 
inches  the  cord  was  loosely  knotted,  and 
midway  between  the  knots  were  flat  little 
gathered  rosettes  of  the  goods  laid  on  the 
cord.  Such  a  trimming  increases  the  cost 
of  dressmakers’  work,  as  all  hand-made 
trimmings  do.  hut  n  clever  home  dress¬ 
maker  can  do  it.  if  she  has  the  time,  and 
the  money  cost  is  very  small.  In  many 
cases  there  is  much  more  trimming  on  the 
skirt  than  on  the  waist,  which  is  usually 
very  plain. 
A  Touch  of  Yellow. — Bright  lemon 
yellow — that  light  yellow  with  a  tinge  of 
green  appears  in  many  Spring  goods  un¬ 
der  the  mime  of  citron,  and  yet  it  is  often 
ugly,  and  almost  invariably  unbecoming. 
It  is  especially  trying  in  millinery,  hut 
we  have  seen  many  chip  hats  of  this  shade 
among  the  new  straws.  One  wide  sailor 
shape  with  curving  brim  was  of  citron 
faced  with  bronze,  and  trimmed  with  a 
drooping  wreath  of  bronze  velvet  leaves 
and  flowers.  A  citron  toque  trimmed 
with  magenta  flowers,  extremely  ugly, 
was  suggestive  of  the  barbaric  Bakst  de¬ 
signs.  We  see  some  crepe  de  chine  waists 
of  this  citron  color,  as  well  as  magenta 
pink  and  a  vivid  light  blue,  none  of  them 
so  pretty  as  the  soft  maize  and  flesh 
shades. 
Simple  Models  for  Spring  and  Summer 
