Ehe  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
March  IS,  1916. 
466 
I  fully  appreciate  the  value  of  praeti- 
cal  experience.  A  doctor  must  spend 
three  or  four  years  in  a  hospital  petting 
it  after  his  graduation  before  lie  can 
practice  for  himself.  But  who  would 
advise  a  young  man  to  spend  the  seven 
years  that  his  college  training  requires 
in  getting  additional  practical  experience 
in  place  of  his  college  training?  The 
same  thing  applies  to  agriculture  in  a 
less  degree.  If  in  the  end  a  man  start¬ 
ing  without  practical  experience  hut 
with  a  scientific  training  will  make  a 
greater  success  than  a  man  with  practical 
experience  hut  without  the  scientific 
training  then  the  practical  experience  Is 
perhaps  less  important  to  a  prospective 
farmer  than  the  scientific  training. 
w.  S.  C. 
Dust  Spray  ;  Apples  for  Horses 
On  page  183  I  find  under  head  of 
“Fruit  Notes  From  the  Hudson  valley 
two  very  interesting  statements:  first, 
that  the  dust  spray  can  be  used  for  t  oil- 
ling  moth  with  excellent  results  m 
qnnlity  of  fruit  and  “in  one-tenth  of  the 
time  it  took  to  spray  the  dormant  trees 
second,  the  writer  says.  "As  usual  we 
fed  tin*  horses  almost  entirely  on  apples 
for  nearly  three  months,  and  kept  the 
horses  in'  the  pink  of  condition.  Cider 
apples  make  good  horse  feed.”  Can  we 
take  these  statements  as  true,  and  of 
gene?*:!!  application?  What  is  the  salt 
needed  to  be  taken  with  them,  if  any? 
What  were  the  full  details  of  this  apple- 
feeding?  E.  E-  D. 
Mass. 
1.  Dusting  versus  Spraying: — To  ap¬ 
ply  the  dormant  spray  of  lime-sulphur 
one  to  eight  on  a  10-acre  Baldwin 
orchard  took  two  men,  a  team  and  a 
good  power  rig  three  days  of  10  hours 
each.  No  other  spray  was  applied  to 
that  block  that  season.  I  dusted  the 
same  block  once  just  after  the  petals 
had  fallen  and  dusted  both  sides  of  each 
row.  It  took  one  man,  with  a  boy  to 
drive  the  team,  exactly  three  hours  from 
the  time  they  left  the  barn  till  they 
got  hack  and  unhooked  the  team.  Figure 
it  out  on  the  time  and  labor  basis.  The 
fruit  from  this  block  was  freer  from 
Codling  moth  injury  than  any  other 
block  of  trees  I  saw  during  the  season 
as  far  as  I  could  tell  from  inspecting  and 
packing  the  apples.  I  am  going  to  rely 
on  dusting  to  control  Codling  moth  and 
scab  this  year. 
2.  Feeding  Horses  on  Apples: — Dur¬ 
ing  apple  season  the  horses  do  not  have 
very  hard  work.  We  begin  with  early 
varieties  and  feed  ripe  windfalls  and 
cider  apples  from  about  Sept.  1st  to 
Doc.  1st.  At  first  we  give  about  four 
quarts  once  a  day,  and  gradually  substi¬ 
tute  two  or  even  three  feedings  of  apples 
for  the  grain  and  only  add  a  little  grain 
when  work  is  heavy.  Ilorses  differ  in 
their  ability  to  digest  and  do  well  on 
apples  and  like  any  other  ration  it  must 
be  fed  with  care  and  good  judgment.  I 
have  talked  with  men  who  have 
fed  apples,  cider  pomace  and  dried 
apple  chops  to  horses,  cows  and  swine, 
and  all  spoke  well  of  it  when  used  with 
proper  care.  1  have  used  apples  for 
hor.se  feed  as  above  noted  for  six  years 
with  good  results.  e.  w.  mxtchell. 
Improving  Lawn  ;  Pruning  Clematis 
1.  1  have  a  lawn  that  seems  poor  and  in 
a  rundown  condition.  Last  rail  I  ap¬ 
plied  100  pounds  bone  meal,  and  this 
■\Viutei  it  is  mulched  with  fresh  horse  ma¬ 
nure.  We  coaxed  this  lawn  all  through 
the  Summer,  feeding  it  with  one  and  an¬ 
other  fertiliser,  rolling  it  every  two  weeks 
and  taking  all  the  weeds  out.  The  top 
soil  is  black  loam  filled  in  depth  about 
three  inches  with  a  yellow  sand  below  to 
the  depth  of  foul  or  five  feet,  then  a  yellow 
gravelly  subsoil.  The  grass  seems  to 
burn  or  turn  brown  in  spots  during  the 
Summer,  as  it  drought  had  burned  it.  It 
is  not  that,  as  wo  had  abundance  of  rain 
and  moisture  all  through  the  past  season, 
not  needing  the  hose  more  than  twice. 
One  side  of  the  lawn  is  getting  full  of 
chick  weed  and  one  or  two  other  noxious 
uncanny  weeds.  I  cannot  dig  it  up  as  my 
top  soil  is  not  deep  enough  without  tinn¬ 
ing  up  the  yellow  sand.  Would  a  heavy 
finding  of  White  clover  force  out  the 
duckweed?  2.  Is  it;  best  to  cut  back 
every  year  the  Clematis  paniculata  to 
one-half  or  more?  I  see  it  is  advocated 
bv  some  practical  men.  ii.  ti.  B. 
Detroit,  Mich. 
1.  The  soil,  or  rather  the  lack  of  it,  is 
the  primary  cause  of  poor  condition  of 
your  lawn.  There  is  very  little  encour¬ 
agement  in  trying  to  get  a  good  growth  of 
law’ll  grass,  with  only  three  inches  of  top 
soil  covering  a  bed  of  sand  and  gravel. 
All  the  best  authorities  agree  that  for  the 
production  of  a  good  lawn,  not  loss  than 
seven  inches  of  good  fertile  top  soil  is  re¬ 
quired.  and  this  should  he  underlaid  with 
a  stratum  of  heavier  subsoil  of  moder¬ 
ately  porous  nature,  to  insure  good  drain¬ 
age.  and  yet  be  sufficiently  retentive  of 
moisture  to  prevent  the  lawn  from  burn¬ 
ing  during  a  hot  dry  spell.  By  wfay  of 
comparison  there  is  just  about  as  much 
difference  between  a  clay  and  sand  sub¬ 
soil  as  retainer  of  moisture,  as  there  is 
between  a  heavy  burlap  bag  and  a  sieve. 
No  matter  how  well  this  lawn  is  fertil¬ 
ized  it  will  never  be  satisfactory.  This 
is  a  discouraging  proposition,  and  there 
are  hut  two  ways  it  can  he  remedied,  both 
of  which  are  quite  expensive.  That  which 
would  give  best  results  would  be  to  re¬ 
move  the  top  soil,  take  out  one  foot,  of  sand 
all  over  the  plat,  and  fill  in  with  about 
eight  inches  of  clay,  and  cover  it  with  at 
least  seven  inches  of  good  loam.  .The 
other  and  cheaper  way  would  be  to  add 
at  least  eight  inches  of  good  loam  to  that 
now  there ;  this  would  make  11  inches  or 
more  of  top  soil,  which  on  account  of  the 
greater  depth,  would  not  drain  nor  dry 
out  so  quickly,  which  would  give  the  grass 
some  chance  of  success.  I  have  for  years 
fought  chickwmed  iu  the  lawn,  blit  i:i 
every  battle  came  out  second  best.  I  know 
of  no  way  to  eradicate  it  completely.  IV hen 
this  weed  once  becomes  well  established 
in  the  lawn,  it  seems  to  be  complete 
master  of  the  situation,  and  it  is  doubtful 
if  it  can  ever  he  gotten  rid  of  entirely. 
2.  Clematis  paniculata  should  he  cut 
hack  every  year  severely.  If  it  is  allowed 
to  go  uutrimmed  it  will  in  a  few  years  ac- 
eumulate  a  mass  of  dead  branches  and  be¬ 
come  very  unsightly.  This  vine  is  a 
strong  and  rapid  grower,  and  as  it  pro¬ 
duces  its  bloom  on  the  current  year's 
growth,  it  will  be  all  the  better,  if  prac¬ 
tically  all  the  side  shoots  are  cut  away 
annually.  K. 
Sweet  Peas  in  Maryland 
In  one  of  the  Fall  numbers  of  The  R. 
N.-Y.,  I  read  a  letter  on  sweet  pea  rais¬ 
ing  as  far  south  as  Maryland.  The 
writer  was  evidently  discouraged  over 
her  results  and  consequently  had  decided 
that  Maryland  was  too  far  south  to  pro¬ 
duce  this  flower.  To  all  who  are  inter¬ 
ested  in  sweet  pea  culture  I  will  say  that 
they  can  be  raised  and  with  wonderful 
success  in  Maryland.  I  have  now  been 
raising  them  for  six  years,  and  find  them 
more  than  worth  the  time,  energy  and 
money  Spent  upon  them. 
Iu  the  first  place  they  are  not  an  ex¬ 
pensive  flower  to  raise,  An  initial  ex¬ 
penditure  from  $1  to  $1.50  for  seed,  de¬ 
pending  upon  variety  wanted,  is  about 
all  there  is  to  it.  With  this  amount  of 
seed  I  usually  plant  a  row  85  to  40  feet 
long.  It  is  best  when  possible  to  pre¬ 
pare  the  ground  in  the  Fall,  so  as  to  be 
ready  for  an  early  planting  but  that  is 
not  absolutely  necessary  this  far  south, 
in  fact  I  have  never  done  this.  Some  of 
the  best  peas  I  have  ever  raised  1  planted 
about  the  middle  of  March,  opening  a 
narrow  trench  about  two  inches  deep 
after  a  heavy  fall  of  snow,  and  when  I 
Covered  them,  snow,  dirt  and  sweet  peas 
were  well  mixed.  When  the  ground  be¬ 
gan  to  dry  out  I  worked  it  well  all 
around  the  trench  and  pulverized  the  dirt 
over  the  sweet  peas.  But  I  would  not 
advise  this  method  as  a  usual  tiling,  hut 
simply  tell  it  to  show  that  they  can  lie 
raised  with  success  even  working  against 
difficulties  and  seemingly  unfavorable 
conditions. 
We  often  hear  that  sweet  peas  should 
not  he  planted  in  the  same  place  two  suc¬ 
ceeding  years,  hilt.  I  have  planted  mine 
in  the  same  place  for  four  years  and  each 
time  they  grow  more  perfect.  When  first 
planting  1  covered  the  ground  with  barn¬ 
yard  manure,  lightly,  more  to  keep  the 
ground  moist  than  anything  else.  When 
the  peas  bad  reached  the  height  of  three 
to  four  inches  high  I  began  pulling  the 
dirt  up  close  to  the  vines,  keeping  this 
up,  as  the  plants  grow  until  the  roots 
were  fully  six  inches  below  the  surface. 
After  the  peas  began  to  send  out  their 
little  dingers  I  opened  a  shallow  trench 
along  both  sides  of  the  row  and  scattered 
hone  meal,  afterwards  covering  it  over. 
I  have  really  found  that  this  is  the  most 
effectual  way  of  applying  this  fertilizer, 
as  bone  meal  is  slowly  available  and  acts 
as  a  tonic  until  the  close  of  the  season. 
A.  B. 
“For  the  Land’s  Sake,  use  Bowker’s 
Fertilizers ;  they  enrich  the  earth  and 
those  who  till  it.” — Adv. 
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