490 
March  IS,  191G. 
C/)<?  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
head  more  comfortably  than  a  round 
crown. 
Spuing  Blouses. — It  is  noticeable 
that  the.  severe  military  styles  of  last 
Spring  have  given  way  to  soft  frilliuess 
— indeed,  we  are  promised  a  season  of 
frills.  The  collars  are  opened  wide  at 
the  neck,  and  the  long  sleeves  show  much 
novelty  in  shape.  Many  of  them  have 
flaring  cuffs,  coming  down  over  the 
hands.  One  pretty  model  of  Georgette 
crape  was  a  plain  blouse  hemstitched  at 
hems  and  seams,  the  long  sleeves  hav¬ 
ing  turn-back  cuffs  edged  with  ideated 
frills.  There  was  a  deep  cape  collar 
edged  with  pleated  frills,  and  a  rolling 
over-collar  of  white  washable  satin. 
There  •  are  many  attractive  styles  in 
blue  and  daffodil,  having  a  black  gros- 
grain  tie  laced  through  large  eyelets,  and 
printed  linen  waists  having  a  narrow 
colored  stripe,  with  here  and  there  a 
small  rosebud.  There  are  also  color 
combinations  in  voile  waists,  white  with 
colored  collar  and  cuffs ;  also  some  in 
both  voile  and  batiste  that  show  a  blue 
and  rose  combination — a  blue  waist  with 
a  rose  collar  and  vestee,  or  a  rose  waist 
with  blue  collar  embroidered  iu  white 
dots. 
Details  in  Making. — Many  of  the 
“little  dresses”  for  girls  and  young 
women  are  quite  short-waisted.  They  are 
all  in  one  piece,  but  in  many  cases  the 
high-waisted  skirt,  hanging  from  the 
shoulders,  pulls  down  the  little  bodice, 
so  that  it  fits  too  tightly  for  style.  It  is 
a  good  plan  to  attach  Ihe  skirt  to  a  band, 
with  suspenders,  a  sort  of  skeleton  under¬ 
bodice,  banging  the  skirt  carefully,  so  as 
to  give  an  accurate  and  comfortable  lit: 
then  fit  the  waist  over  this.  The  waist 
and  under-suspenders  are  not  attached 
together  at  shoulders,  so  during  ironing 
the  suspenders  are  dropped  so  that  they 
do  not  interfere  with  the  waist  on  Ihe 
ironing  board.  This  plan  is  often  useful 
with  girls’  dresses.  As  a  help  in  Sum¬ 
mer  dresses  the  handy  button- lode  braid 
may  be  used  as  a  finish  to  waists,  and 
it  saves  time  that  might  be  spent  in 
making  buttonholes.  In  making  up 
striped  linens,  percales,  madras,  etc,,  we 
see  some  pretty  effects  secured  by  run¬ 
ning  the  stripes  partly  vertical  and 
partly  horizontal.  Thus  the  upper  part 
of  the  skirt  will  have  up-and-down 
stripes,  while  for  a  depth  of  IS  inches  it 
the  font  the  stripes  will  run  around;  the 
upper  part  of  the  waist  will  have  up- 
and-down  stripes,  while  the  lower  part, 
to  the  waist  line,  has  horizontal  stripes. 
Very  pretty  effects  can  lie  secured  in  this 
way.  though  the  dress  may  be  plainly 
made.  In  making  wash  dresses  it  is  al¬ 
ways  worth  while  to  spend  a  few  cents 
more  on  the  buttons,  and  get  good  pearl. 
The  cheaper  readymade  garments  always 
use  the  less  expensive  buttons,  often 
imitation  pearl,  and  as.  in  home  dress¬ 
making.  buttons  may  be  transferred  from 
a  worn  garment  to  a  new  one,  it  pays 
to  get  good  oues. 
Spuing  Fabrics. — Checked  velours, 
a  soft  cloth  with  a  velvety  finish,  is  of¬ 
fered  for  suits  and  dresses  in  great  va¬ 
riety,  usually  black  checks  on  a  colored 
or  white  ground.  One  often  sees  mus¬ 
tard  color  with  black  checks,  also  a  dull 
shade  of  violet.  Black  and  white  woolen 
fabrics,  plaids,  ehorfes  -and  stripes  in 
serge,  worsted,  velours  and  coating  are 
very  popular.  Black  and  white  shep¬ 
herd’s  check,  trimmed  with  black  velvet, 
is  restored  to  popularity:  it  is  often  seen 
with  a  little  touch  of  color  added  in  a 
beaded  pocket,  or  bit  of  bright-colored 
piping.  Dress  linen  in  Cossack  weave  is 
to  be  very  popular  for  separate  skirts, 
and  for  women’s  and  children’s  dresses, 
in  white,  cream,  oyster,  tan.  pink,  blue, 
rose,  orange,  reseda,  etc.  Striped  taffetas 
are  to  be  in  high  favor;  many  of  them 
have  a  one  or  two-inch  group  of  narrow 
stripes  two  or  three  inches  apart.  They 
are  very  handsome  in  dark  blue,  green 
or  brown  with  groups  of  black  and  self- 
colored  stripes  with  a  narrow  line  of 
white  among  them.  Dark  blue  and 
biscuit-colored  striped  taffeta  was  very 
pretty,  made  up  in  a  simple  dress  that 
had  no  trimming  except  a  biscuit-colored 
vestee  and  cuffs.  The  Cossack  linens 
are  seen  in  broad  stripes  and  also  Shan¬ 
tung  pongees. 
NVcr  Trimmings. — Cape  collars  first 
of  all.  for  everyone  i.s  wearing  them  in 
„  .  .  „  ,  „  net.  taffeta,  organdie,  laeo.  and  every 
buggeslions  tor  opring  and  bummer  .  .  .  . 
other  material  that  may  be  pressed  into 
iny  under  the  collar  at  each  side  and  then  service.  Some  of  the  capes  are  slianed 
coming  together  half  way  down,  so  as  to  rise  high  around  the  throat,  while 
to  form  a  V.  a  single  frill  continuing  others  are  low  and  open;  they  are  made 
down  the  front  of  the  waist.  In  French  circular,  smoothly  fitting,  or  Sometimes 
batiste  blouses  we  see  pale  pastel  shades  rippling.  They  are  a  great  nuisance 
as  well  as  white;  shell  pink,  pale  laveu-  under  a  coat,  for  crumpling  is  inevitable, 
dor  and  sky  blue,  trimmed  with  hand-  but  they  will  be  wonderfully  desirable  on 
made  drawn  work,  tucks  and  frills.  Summer  dresses.  A  plain  last  year's 
Anyone  who  lias  time  and  ability  for  gown  can  be  restored  to  youth  by  a  deep 
fine  hand  sewing  can  use  it  to  advantage  on'-e  collar  of  snowy  organdie.  A  cape 
on  blouses  and  thin  dresses.  We  also  see  of  black  taffeta  noted  had  a  high  collar 
heavier  blouses  of  lustre  silk  tvith  a  finished  at  top  with  a  high  ruche  of 
vestee  front  and  yoke  back  outlined  with  black  net ;  the  net  ruche  was  continued 
heavy  cording.  the  fullness  being  all  around  the  edge,  and  there  was  a 
smocked.  Most  of  the  heavier  blouses,  black  velvet  tie  with  long  ends.  This 
and  many  of  the  lingerie  styles,  have  would  be  a  desirable  trimming  in  making 
convertible  collars  that  may  be  worn  over  a  plain  black  silk  dress,  but  it 
high  or  low.  There  are  beautiful  blouses  would  bo  more  becoming  if  the  ruche 
of  handkerchief  li.ueu,  in  shades  of  rose,  were  lined  tvith  white  uct. 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
feet.  Sometimes  wider  ruffles  are  used, 
about  soten  inches  deep,  so  that  they 
are  brought  up  higher.  The  skirt  is 
gored,  but  gathered  at  back  and  sides, 
so  as  to  be  quite  full.  The  waist  is  quite 
plain,  slightly  gathered  into  a  deep  yoke, 
with  a  ruffle  at  the  edge  of  the  yoke, 
go  as  to  give  .  dropped  shoulder  effect; 
the  full  sleeves  are  gathered  into  a  cuff, 
headed  by  a  ruffle.  There  i.s  a  crush  belt, 
and  most  novel  of  all  is  u  little  round 
beaded  pocket  coming  below  the  bolt  at 
the  right  side.  In  the  model  seen  this 
Frocks  for  the  Growing  Girl 
flat  pocket  was  very  gay  in  color,  being 
embroidered  in  bugle  beads  of  cerise, 
black,  green  and  gold.  A  good  many  of 
the  new  costumes  show  flat  or  shirred 
pockets  win"  in  this  way.  The  hat 
shown  is  a  high-crowned  military  style 
with  narrow  rolled  brim,  made  of  fine 
black  straw,  trimmed  with  a  narrow 
white  gros-grain  band  and  a  bight  white 
fancy  feather. 
A  Combination  in  Linen. — The  dress 
at  the  right  is  of  linen,  and  may  be 
utilized  in  making  over,  for  a  good  white 
linen  skirt  of  obsolete  cut  could  be  com¬ 
bined  with  new  material.  The  full  skirt 
lingerie  blouses  of  voile,  embroidered, 
hemstitched,  or  with  lace  inserts,  costing 
from  $2  to  $2.  A  majority  of  the  lin¬ 
gerie  blouses  arc  of  voile,  though  we  see 
many  fine  models  iu  batiste  or  organdie. 
Crepe  do  chine  and  Georgette  are  of 
course  very  popular,  and  the  former  is 
as  easily  washed  as  any  other  lingerie 
blouse.  There  are  some  very  pretty  crepe 
waist's  of  Tuxedo  model  having  a  bosom 
of  fine  tucks  finished  by  hemstitching 
across  the  bottom  ;  the  tucks  do  not  come 
down  to  the  waist.  The  long  sleeves  have 
flaring  cuffs  that  come  down  over  the 
hands.  A  favorite  sty’e  has  a  frill  start- 
lias  a  deep  band  of  white  linen  at  the 
foot,  and  two  graduated  bands  above  l.t 
that  extend  around  the  back  and  sides, 
but  do  not  extend  across  the  front,  leav¬ 
ing  this  in  panel  effect.  The  plain  long- 
sboiildered  waist  lias  a  rolling  collar 
and  vest  of  white  linen  cut  all  in  one, 
the  vest  extending  a  little  below  the 
waist  line  in  a  square  tab.  The  sleeves 
are  elbow  length  but  are  extended  by  a 
flaring  cuff  of  white  linen  that  is  slashed 
open  at  the  back,  and  trimmed  with  but¬ 
tons  and  buttonholes.  This  is  a  very 
simple  dress,  but  very  effective  in  its 
combination.  The  hat  shown  with  it  is 
another  plain  sailor  shape  trimmed  with 
blush  China  roses.  There  are  many  of 
these  .  broad-brimmed  bats,  the  crowns 
being  usually  oval,  which  .tits  on  the 
