632 
C*/>e  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
For  Growing  Girls. — The  girl  of  14 
to  17  years  lias  an  immense  capacity  for 
growing  out  of  her  clothes,  aud  many  a 
mother  is  perplexed  over  the  problem  of 
adjusting  last  Summer's  frock  to  this 
Summer’s  needs.  In  the  first  illustra¬ 
tion  the  figure  at  the  left  will  be  found 
quite  suggestive,  since  it  provides  for  a 
general  lengthening  of  an  outgrown  frock. 
The  original  seen  in  a  Fifth  Avenue  shop, 
was  a  combination  of  foulard  and  voile, 
the  silk  being  a  coral  pink  pattern  on  a 
white  ground,  the  voile  plain  coral  color. 
The  full  plain  skirt  of  the  silk  was  gath¬ 
ered  at  the  top  by  five  corded  shirrings. 
At  the  bottom  of  the  skirt  was  a  four- 
inch  liem,  and  above  this  a  band  of  voile 
seven  inches  deep  was  put  in  like  an  in¬ 
sertion.  Three  little  ruffles  graduated  in 
width — the  widest  about  -J/j  inches — 
were  put  on  this  voile  hand,  these  ruffles 
being  of  the  silk.  The  plain  waist  was 
of  the  silk  to  about  six  inches  above  the 
waist  line,  where  it  was  continued  in 
voile,  two  plain  milliner’s  folds  of  the  silk 
being  laid  on  this  voile  section  all  the  way 
around.  The  long  bell  sleeves  of  voile 
were  entirely  plain,  except  for  two  mil¬ 
liner's  folds  of  silk  at  the  bottom.’  Clos¬ 
ing  was  invisible,  and  the  neck  was  fin¬ 
ished  with  a  shawl  collar  of  white  voile. 
The  shirred  skirt  and  sectional  trimming 
of  the  waist  take  off  the  lankiness  of  an 
unformed  girlish  figure,  and  the  use  of 
the  voile  in  combination  suggests  a  good 
idea  in  “making  over.”  A  figured  ehallie 
would  be  pretty  made  up  in  this  way 
with  plain  taffeta.  While  this  was  a 
misses  or  junior  dress,  it  is  entirely  suit¬ 
able  for  a  small  woman. 
The  Flapper. — American  shops  have 
adopted  the  English  nickname  of  “flap¬ 
per"  as  descriptive  of  a  half-grown  and 
unformed  girl,  and  fashions  intended  for 
this  “hefwixt  and  between”  age  are  shown 
and  advertised  as  “flapper  styles."  The 
girl  at  the  right,  in  the  first  illustration, 
wears  a  typical  “flapper"  combination  of 
kilt-pleated  skirt  and  smock.  As  seen, 
(lie  skirt  was  of  heavy  cotton  in  1%-iuch 
awning  stripes,  dark  blue  and  white;  the 
smock  was  of  dark  blue  gala  ten.  just 
a]jout  the  color  of  old-fashioned  blue 
denim;  The  smock  was  made  with  a  yoke 
into  which  the  fullness  was  gathered  :  the 
opening  came  a  little  below  the  yoke,  so 
the  smock  was  easily  drawn  over  the 
head.  There  was  a  patch  pocket  at  one 
side,  and  full  sleeves  with  turn-back 
cuffs ;  the  neck  was  finished  with  a  roll¬ 
ing  collar.  The  edge  of  yoke,  cuffs,  col¬ 
lar.  pocket  and  placket  were  finished  with 
a  featherstitcliing  of  mercerized  cotton, 
white  or  colored.  The  back  was  gathered 
into  the  yoke,  the  smock  being  loose  and 
flaring  in  fit,  and  altogether  rather  sug¬ 
gestive  of  a  French  workman’s  blouse. 
The  skirt  was  straight,  pleated  into  the 
belt,  tlie  kilting  being  just  the  width  of 
the  stripes,  with  the  blue  stripe  upper¬ 
most.  The  material,  in  heavy  cotton 
sometimes  called  “sports  stripes,”  gala- 
tea  or  similar  goods,  costs  from  ”4  to  ”>0 
cents  a  yard.  This  style  makes  a  desir¬ 
able  school  or  outing  dress  for  both  big 
and  little  girls,  and  is  developed  in  many 
different  ways. 
A  Summer  Sr  it. — Tn  the  second  group 
the  figure  at  the  left  shows  a  simple  suit 
that  will  lie  found  desirable  in  silk,  such 
as  taffeta,  pongee  or  poplin,  nr  in  linen. 
It  is  very  plain,  but  not  what  is  called 
"strictly  tailored."  A  plain  tailored  suit 
is  much  more  difficult  to  finish  in  a  pro¬ 
fessional  manner  than  one  with  more  fem¬ 
inine  touches,  and  it  is  wise  for  the  home 
dressmaker  to  bear  this  in  mind.  In  this 
model  there  is  a  plain  four-gored  skirt  of 
good  width,  having  two  of  the  triangular 
pockets  that  are  really  rather  suggestive 
of  an  old-fashioned  slipper  case,  being  a 
narrow  triangle  about  10  inches  long  with 
a  curved  opening  in  the  center,  brought 
closer  together  when  basted  in  place,  so 
that  the  pocket  swells  out  like  the  toe  of 
a  slipper.  There  js  a  deep  fitted  belt 
The  plain  little  coat  has  two  corded  sliir- 
riugs  starting  at  each  side  and  running 
across  the  back;  two  heavy  silk  cords  run¬ 
ning  through  draw  in  the  fullness,  and 
are  looped  together  iu  front.  In  the 
model,  which  was  Belgian  blue  taffeta, 
the  ends  of  the  cords  were  finished  with 
pipestem  beads  of  white  porcelain.  The 
fullness  of  the  sleeves  is  gathered  in  in 
the  same  way  the  cords  finished  with  the 
beads.  There  were  no  buttonholes,  the 
coat  fastening  with  cord  loops  covered 
with  silk,  the  buttons  being  white  porce¬ 
lain  edged  with  blue.  There  is  a  high  col¬ 
lar  flaring  away  from  the  front,  and  also 
a  shawl  cape  pointing  out  lo  the  shoul¬ 
der  line,  and  rounded  at  (he  hack.  The 
hat  worn  is  a  little  toque  of  black  lisere 
with  a  blue  silk  crown;  around  the  crown 
arc  small  pink  roses  with  some  loops  of 
blue  picot  ribbon  at  the  hack. 
A  Useful  Coat. — The  coat  worn  by 
the  central  figure  is  one  of  the  military 
styles  now  so  popular,  and  is  useful  for 
driving,  motoring  or  general  wear  when 
an  extra  wrap  is  required.  Such  a  coat 
may  be  made  in  linen,  especially  the  heavy 
Cossack  weaves,  khaki  doth,  pongee  or 
woolens,  shepherd’s  check  or  dark  blue 
breadth  to  the  shoulder  line.  Such  a  coat, 
in  sand-colored  pongee,  had  round  horn 
buttons,  and  was  lined  to  the  waist  with 
(lowered  silk.  The  hat  worn  is  a  mili¬ 
tary  beret  of  dark  blue  straw  with  a 
sand-colored  silk  crown  suggesting  a  sol¬ 
dier's  cap.  the  only  trimming  a  little 
cluster  of  fruit. 
Two-colored  Linen. — The  figure  at 
right  was  one  of  the  “double"  skirts  that 
are  really  paneled,  and  as  seen  it  at  once 
suggested  the  idea  of  altering  a  last  year’s 
skirt  that  was  too  narrow  for  this  year’s 
TO  ode.  The  model  was  or  raspberry  linen, 
the  center  panel  of  while,  with  three  deep 
tucks.  The  plain  bolted  over-blouse  of 
colored  linen  is  cut  out  so  as  to  form 
square  shoulder  caps;  the  white  linen  un¬ 
der-blouse  is  tucked  in  front,  the  full 
sleeves  finished  with  deep  pointed  cuffs  of 
colored  linen.  The  flare  collar  is  attach¬ 
ed  to  the  under-blouse,  and  there  is  a 
plain  Mark  satin  tie  passing  through  a 
pearl  slide.  The  hat  worn  is  a  very  pop- 
ular  close,  round  “cloche’’  or  bell  shape, 
of  black  straw,  the  only  trimming  being 
an  upstanding  wired  how  of  six  loops 
Dresses  for  the  Growing  Girls 
Three  Practical  Styles  for  Spring  and  Summer 
serge  being  popular.  The  back  is  plain, 
with  a  deep,  inverted  pleat  down  the  cen¬ 
ter,  just  like  the  real  service  overcoat; 
the  pleat  is  not  stitched  down,  but  is 
pressed  carefully,  aud  confined  by  the 
belt.  The  coat  is  very  flaring,  but  plain 
in  front,  and  double-breasted;  the  belt  is 
cut  into  two  straps  at  the  ends,  the  but¬ 
tons  aud  buttonholes  being  on  these  nar¬ 
row  straps.  The  sleeves  have  large  gaunt¬ 
let  cuffs  trimmed  with  buttons.  There  is 
a  cape  collar  that  is  cut  square  across  in 
front  and  forms  a  capote  at  the  back,  and 
a  turn-over  upper  collar.  The  cape  is 
more  becoming  in  this  form  than  when 
brought  all  around,  as  it  gives  more 
and  two  ends,  made  of  raspberry  colored 
gros-grain  ribbon  with  black  picot  edging. 
Picot  ribbon  is  much  in  vogue,  both  for 
millinery  and  dress  trimming.  We  see 
gome  skirts  made  with  this  front  panel 
with  the  skirt  draped  in  paniers  at  the 
side,  especially  in  sheer  materials. 
Outlines  and  Details. — One  reads, 
each  season,  of  the  “new”  silhouette  or 
outline,  which  shows  the  prevailing  style. 
This  Spring  the  new  silhouette  is  flat  at 
hack  and  front,  and  very  full  at  the  sides  ; 
thus  we  see  skirts  with  paniers  or  full 
draperies  over  the  hips,  but  with  the 
back  falling  as  straight  as  the  front,  giv¬ 
ing  the  effect  of  long  lines,  without  a  hint 
April  15,  191G. 
of  (he  dreadful  “bustle"  that  was  threat¬ 
ened.  As  the  waists  are  quite  plain  and 
the  sleeves  often  full  .these  trimmed  skirts 
give  a  look  of  slenderness  to  the  figure. 
f  >n  the  other  hand,  there  are  some  serge 
one-piece  dresses  that  are  plain  and 
straight  front  neck  to  ankles,  except  for 
tlie  fullness  over  the  hips.  One  such 
dross  of  dark  blue  serge  had  a  white  frill 
all  the  way  down  the  front,  from  high 
collar  to  hem.  A  touch  of  bright-colored 
Oriental  embroidery  or  beading  is  often 
used  on  a  plain  gown  of  dark  blue  or 
gray  serge.  Sleeves  show  some  remark- 
aide  vagaries  iu  puffed  and  leg-of-mutton 
shapes.  Some  are  put  together  in  pieces 
or  sections,  tight  from  wrist  to  elbow, 
then  springing  out  iu  a  puff.  Some  are 
closely  gauged  at-  the  dropped  shoulder, 
forming  a  puff  below,  that  is  gathered 
into  a  deep  cuff.  There  are  bell  sleeves 
over  net  or  chiffon  underslceves.  and  other 
styles  that  suggest  the  period  of  daguer¬ 
reotypes  and  hoopskirts.  The  same  idea 
is  carried  nut  in  tlie  little  close-fitting 
basques,  pointed  or  rounded  below  the 
waist  line  in  front,  set  over  tlie  full  skirt. 
Some  of  these  basques  hare  a  fine  cording 
dowu  the  seams.  Flaring  over-sleeves 
with  full  gathered  under-sleeves  of  net. 
organdie  or  chiffon  are  quite  popular;  also 
loug  sleeves  of  transparent  material 
sometimes  plain,  flaring  over  the  baud, 
sometimes  gathered  into  a  cuff,  with  a 
gathered  or  circular  frill  falling  over  the 
hand.  The  dropped  shoulder  is  still  in 
vogue,  and  these  full  sleeves,  gathered  be¬ 
low  the  shoulder,  puff  out  widely  below, 
the  apparent  width  of  the  shoulder  being 
sometimes  increased  by  a  cape  collar.  Tlie 
general  outline  of  wide  sleeve,  tight  waist 
and  short  full  skirt  is  quite  suggestive  of 
Ts."0.  Although  the  flat  front  and  hack 
line  prevails,  some  of  the  skirts  of  thin 
material  show  a  hoop  tendency  all  around, 
and  we  have  seen  some  crinolines  in  the 
stores.  They  are  quite  modest,  three  reeds 
in  a  short  skirt  of  white  net.  suspended 
by  silk  tapes  from  an  elastic  belt,  the 
reeds  trimmed  with  little  lace  frills;  the 
net  does  not  come  up  to  the  top. 
Separate  Waists. — Recently  we  have 
seen  many  attractive  waists  in  striped 
cotton  voile,  sometimes  evenly  spaced 
stripes  of  white  and  color  from  one-half 
to  one  inch  apart,  sometimes  the  colored 
stripes  at  wider  intervals,  and  some¬ 
times  massed  groups  of  narrow  colored 
stripes  at  wide  intervals,  thus  following 
out  tlie  awning  stripe  design  in  all  cases; 
we  have  not  noticed  any  with  narrow 
stripes  dose  together.  Such  waists  are 
pretty,  inexpensive  and  easily  made;  the 
Colored  stripes  include  blue,  pink,  green, 
heliotrope,  fawn,  brown,  yellow,  gray  and 
black.  Purchased  with  an  idea  of  har¬ 
mony  with  the  tailored  suit,  such  a  waist 
will  he  found  very  desirable  for  Spring 
wear.  They  are  quite  simple  in  make, 
with  long  sleeves.  One  model  has  raglan 
sleeves,  the  upper  part  of  the  sleeve  going 
across  the  shoulder  to  form  a  yoke  of  hor¬ 
izontal  stripes,  the  front  of  the  waist  hav¬ 
ing  its  fullness  gathered  into  this  yoke. 
Another  style  has  set-in  sleeves,  slightly 
gathered  at  shoulder,  the  fullness  at  wrist 
gathered  into  a  live-inch  cuff  of  the  mate¬ 
rial  with  a  shallow  turn-hack  over-cuff 
of  white  organdie  or  handkerchief  linen. 
Some  button  plainly  iu  shirt  style  with 
large  Hat  pearl  buttons,  while  others  have 
a  little  vestee  in  front.  The  vestee.  fast¬ 
ening  iu  center,  is  about  four  inches  wide; 
sometimes  it  is  made  of  the  same  mate¬ 
rial.  with  tlie  stripes  running  across,  in¬ 
stead-  of  vertically ;  sometimes  of  white 
voile.  A  pretty  bine  and  white  striped 
waist  had  a  vest  of  white  voile  with 
groups  of  embroidered  dots  on  each  side 
of  the  hem ;  the  dots  were  blue  with  a 
line  of  coral  pink  around  them.  Turn¬ 
down  collar  and  cuffs  of  white  were  fin¬ 
ished  with  the  same  dots.  A  waist 
striped  with  steel  gray,  just  the  thing  to 
wear  with  a  gray  suit,  had  tlie  white 
vestee  embroidered  with  little  squares  of 
black,  edged  with  a  line  of  emerald 
green,  which  were  grouped  in  threes.  A 
very  plain  voile  blouse  may  he  made  quite 
dressy  by  a  well-selected  collar,  which 
may  be  high  or  low.  as  is  most  becoming. 
There  are  some  deep  cape  collars  of  or¬ 
gandie  or  voile,  that  come  high  around  the 
neck,  but  as  a  rule  the  V-neck  is  more  be¬ 
coming. 
-Fabrics  and  Trimmings.  —  Striped 
pongees  are  to  see  great  popularity  for 
Spring  gowns,  the  stripes  being  blue  or 
