788 
7 ~he  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
Awning  Stripes. — The  boy’s  suit  shown 
at  left  in  the  group  of  children  pictured 
is  given  a  novel  touch  by  the  use  of  awn¬ 
ing  stripes  for  the  coat,  with  trousers  of 
plain  color.  Any  preferred  pattern  inay 
be  used  in  this  way.  but  this  season  we 
rarely  see  a  boy's  washable  suit  with 
knickerbockers:  the  little  straight  trous¬ 
ers  are  much  more  the  mode.  The  coat 
has  an  applied  pleat  cut  on  the  bias:  the 
little  patch  pockets  have  buttoned  flaps. 
The  suit  seen  was  of  gala  tea.  the  coat 
of.  blue  and  white  awning  stripes,  the 
trousers  of  solid  blue,  the  coat  buttons 
being  pearl.  We  see  them  in  several 
colors,  but  the  blue  aud  white  is  always 
reliable  for  laundering.  White  trousers 
also  look  nice  with  the  striped  coat,  and 
it  is  well  to  have  an  extra  pair  of  white 
linen  for  special  wear.  A  jolly  little  boy 
in  blue  aud  white  striped  coat,  white 
trousers  and  a  white  linen  hat  with  a 
blue  band,  is  sufficiently  well  dressed  for 
any  Summer  occasion. 
Rifplettk  Rompers, — The  rompers 
figured  were  especially  attractive  because 
of  the  material  used.  This  was  crin¬ 
kled  crape  or  ripplotte  of  white  flowered 
with  little  pink  roses.  The  rompers 
and  suspenders  were  made  of  this  flow- 
end  material,  while  the  suspenders  were 
finished  along  the  edges  with  a  little  half¬ 
inch  frill  of  plain  white*  crinkled  crape. 
The  little  guirnpe  was  made  of  plain 
white  crinkled  crape,  buttoned  down  the 
front,  with  a  round  turn-down  collar 
edged  with  a  narrow  frill.  A  narrow 
crocheted  edging  of  the  “mile-a-minute” 
variety  would  lie  desirable  for  finishing 
this  collar.  The  guirnpe  and  rompers 
made  h  pretty  little  scut,  and  one  that 
would  give  relief  from  too  careful  iron¬ 
ing.  A  good  mauy  of  the  rompers  are 
now  made  envelope  style,  buttoning  all 
around  the  inside  of  tin*  leg.  so  that  there 
are  no  side  plackets  at  the  top.  the  gar¬ 
ment  opening  like  a  skirt.  Some  have 
the  envelope  closing  coming  right  up  to 
the  top  at  front,  so  that  the  romper 
opens  out  perfectly  flat  for  laundering. 
The  one  disadvantage  to  this  style  is  the 
array  of  buttons  and  buttonholes,  w  hich 
take  too  much  time  in  home  sewing. 
Simplicity  fob  Growing  Girls. — The 
dress  shown  at  right  in  the  children’s 
group  was  of  willow  green  taffeta,  a  12- 
year  model,  but  it  would  make  up  very 
attractively  in  challie.  with  a  silk  sash, 
or  in  wash  goods,  such  as  liueti,  poplin 
or  gabardine.  The  dress  is  made  in 
two  pieces,  a  full  gored  skirt  and  a  loose 
blouse.  The  blouse  flares  in  the  skirt  so 
that  it  looks  like  two  tiers.  Any  plain 
pattern  will  do  for  this:  either  a 
straight  blouse  of  the  Russian  type,  or 
one  with  a  peplmn  joiued  on  with  cord¬ 
ing.  The  blouse  fastens  down  the  front 
with  buttons  in  groups  of  threes,  and 
cord  loops.  We  sec*  some  such  blouses 
fastened  invisibly,  aud  trimmed  with  but¬ 
tons  with  simulated  buttonholes  of  cord 
covered  with  the  material.  The  dress  is 
trimmed  with  a  crossed  sash,  starting  at 
each  side  near  the  sleeve,  crossed  at  the 
waist  line,  and  then  brought  down  below 
the  waist  at  the  back,  where  it  is  again 
crossed.  This  sash,  as  seen  in  the  or¬ 
iginal,  was  of  the  silk,  creased  in  flat 
folds,  so  as  to  be  about  five  inches  wide. 
In  wash  goods  it  could  be  made  as  a 
stitc-lied  strap  of  double  material,  either 
the  same  as  the  dress,  or  of  contrasting 
color.  It  could  then  be  held  in  place  by 
snap  fasteners,  the  buttons  and  simu¬ 
lated  buttonholes  forming  a  trimming,  the 
sash  being  easily  removed  for  launder¬ 
ing.  A  dress  of  natural  colored  linen 
would  be  pretty  with  the  sash  piped  with 
delft  blue  or  old  rose,  having  covered 
buttons  aud  corded  buttonholes  of  the 
contrasting  color. 
Stripf.d  Voile. — The  women’s  drosses 
figured  show  two  atraetive  models  for 
Summer  materials.  At  the  left  is  a  cot¬ 
ton  voile  in  narrow  black  and  white 
stripes,  combined  with  plain  white  voile. 
This  is  a  very  inexpensive  dress,  but  the 
style  of  making  gives  a  drossy  effect.  The 
skirt  is  a  plain  gathered  model,  the  low¬ 
er  part  being  one  breadth  of  36-inch 
voile  with  the  stripes  running  horizon¬ 
tally.  while  plain  white  voile  is  joined 
to  make  the  length  at  top.  At  front  and 
back  of  skirt  are  two  10-inch  panels, 
formed  into  narrow  box  pleats  at  the  top, 
of  the  striped  voile  with  stripes  running 
up  and  down.  These  vertical  stripes 
run  right  up  to  the  waist-line,  the  placket 
being  concealed  under  the  pleat.  The 
waist  carries  out  the  same  effect,  the  tip¬ 
per  part  being  of  white  voile,  the  lower 
part  horizontal  stripes,  while  sections  of 
vertical  stripes  come  down  from  the 
shoulder  to  the  waist,  meeting  the  ver¬ 
tical  pleats  of  the  skirt.  The  sleeves 
have  a  dropped  shoulder  portion  of 
stripes,  the  lower  part  being  of  white 
much  simpler  than  many  old-time  lingerie 
styles,  it  is  very  effective,  and  its  flouuci- 
ness  is  a  favored  style  thi~  season.  The 
ruffles  on  waist  and  sleeves  may  he  edged 
with  some  little  crocheted  trimming. 
The  hat  worn  with  it  is  a  high-crowned 
wide-brimmed  Leghorn  or  Tuscan, 
trimmed  around  the  top  of  crown  and 
edge  of  brim  with  ruffles  of  narrow  old 
blue  ribbon.  A  fold  of  wide  ribbon  of 
the  same  color  is  laid  on  the  brim 
around  the  crown,  held  in  place  by  a 
large  pink  rose.  The  hat  worn  with  the 
striped  dress  is  a  small  shape  of  black 
straw,  its  only  trimming  being  a  cluster 
of  pink  roses  aud  foliage  laid  flat  upon 
tlu*  top  of  the  crown. 
Variations  in  Children’s  Models 
voile,  with  striped  cuff.  Ball  buttons  of 
black  and  white,  with  white  cord  loops, 
fastened  the  waist.  The  original  model 
had  a  black  satin  girdle,  but  if  a  touch 
of  color  is  desired  a  girdle  of  willow 
green,  old  rose  or  delft  blue  looks  very 
smart  on  a  black  and  white  dress.  The 
same  model  is  beautifully  cool-looking  in 
green  and  white  or  lavender  and  white 
voile, 
A  Lingerie  Model.— The  little  dress 
at  the  right  is  intended  for  batiste,  or¬ 
gandie,  dimity,  or  other  thin  wash  goods. 
It  may  be  made  either  in  one  piece,  or  a 
Linings, — Linings  do  not  count  very 
much  in  modern  dressmaking  as  far  as 
blouses  and  skirts  are  concerned,  but  we 
have  seen  lately  readymade  facings  for 
the  skirt  hem.  intended  to  give  the  fash¬ 
ionable  flare.  These  facings  are  of  crin¬ 
oline,  from  three  to  five  inches  wide, 
bound  on  the*  edges  with  binding  tape, 
aud  pressed  to  a  flare  on  one  edge,  which 
is  to  be  the  lower  side.  This  facing  is 
inserted  in  the  hem.  aud  is  warranted 
not  to  ’’corkscrew”  oi;  curl.  These  fac¬ 
ings,  in  black  aud  white,  cost  18  and  25 
cents  a  yard.  Coat  interlinings  of  can¬ 
vas.  carefully  basted  and  fitted  to  stock 
four-flounced  skirt  having  the  fifth 
flounce  attached  to  the  waist  as  a  pep- 
lum.  This  is  perhaps  the  easier  method, 
as  the  placket  is  more  manageable.  The 
skirt  is  attached  to  a  belt,  and  fastened 
in  the  back.  The  waist  is  also  fastened 
in  the  back,  and  the  attached  peplmn 
flounce  conceals  the  placket  beneath.  The 
waist  is  a  perfectly  plain  blouse  with 
dropped  shoulder.  the  old-fashioned 
sleeves  very  full  below,  finished  with  a 
ruffle  at  the  wrist,  and  two  narrow  ruf¬ 
fles  on  the  full  part  of  the  sleeve  just 
above  the  wrist.  The  round  neck,  cut 
out  to  the  same  depth  all  around,  is  an¬ 
other  old-fashioned  feature  now  very 
much  in  vogue,  with  ils  turn-down  ruffle. 
A  velvet  ribbon  girdle  with  long  ends  fin¬ 
ishes  the  waist.  While  this  dress  is 
figures,  may  be  purchased  ready  pre¬ 
pared.  and  are  a  great  help  to  home 
dressmakers,  who  often  find  it  difficult  to 
cut  the  tailored  interlining,  ou  which  tile 
fit  of  the  garment  depends.  Waist  lin¬ 
ings,  except  for  tight  basques,  are  usu¬ 
ally  a  finished  slip  bodice  of  lace,  net 
or  other  thin  materials,  basted  into  place. 
Twenty-five  years  ago  a  waist  lining, 
boned  and  padded,  formed  the  figure  over 
which  the  dress  was  fitted.  but  this  is  no 
longer  the  ease.  With  the  low-cut  cor¬ 
set' a  stout  woman  should  always  wear  a 
brassiere:  then  with  the  soft  lining  of 
tin*  bodice  there  is  no  evidence  of  re¬ 
straint.  aud  she  does  not  have  the  pain¬ 
ful  trussed  pigeon  effect  of  a  tight  waist. 
The  brassiere  is  also  desirable  under  a 
very  thin  dress,  as  it  prevents  a  r'ulge 
from  showing  at  the  top  of  the  corset. 
Many  of  the  new  corsets  have  an  in¬ 
set  of  heavy  elastic  at  the  top  under  the 
arms;  this  prevents  the  corset  from 
binding,  while  keeping  it  close  at  the  top. 
Mar  20,  1916. 
As  warm  weather  approaches,  any  wom¬ 
an  who  perspires  freely  will  do  well  to 
buy  the  large  dress  shields  that  are 
mounted  on  a  sort  of  brassiere  of  heavy 
net.  This  sort  of  shield  is  not  fastened 
to  the  waist,  but  put  on  separately; 
hence  it  can  be  kept  clean,  and  there  is 
ample  protection  for  the  waist. 
Model  Blouses. — Some  pretty  styles 
are  seen  in  voile  of  solid  colors,  flesh, 
bisque,  blue,  coral  or  orchid  tints.  They 
have  deep  sailor  collar  edged  with  fine 
embroidery  and  tucked  cuffs.  Another 
style  is  white  voile  with  collar,  fichu  or 
revers  edged  with  triple  folds  of  blue  or 
rose.  A  very  good  plain  model  for  wear 
with  pique  or  linen  skirts  is  of  white 
linen  lawn,  with  elbow  sleeves  having  a 
tabbed  cuff  of  colored  linen  aud  a  sailor 
collar  edged  aloug  back  and  front,  but 
not  over  shoulders,  with  colored  bauds. 
The  blouse  is  fastened  with  one  large 
button  a  little  to  one  side,  having  a 
large  up-and-down  buttonhole  bound 
with  the  colored  material.  There  are 
some  pretty  blouses  of  white  batiste  hav¬ 
ing  collars,  cuffs  and  long  rovers  finished 
with  hands  of  blue,  rose  or  heliotrope 
put  on  in  battlements,  a  very  effective 
style  that  launders  more  easily  than 
pleated  frills.  A  blouse  of  pale  French 
gray  Georgette  crape  uoted  in  a  good 
shop  showed  "something  different"  in  its 
trimming,  which  was  buttonholing  of 
white  worsted.  The  waist  had  four-inch 
clusters  of  pin  tucks  on  each  side  of  the 
front,  and  a  single  rover,  edged  with  the 
buttonholing.  There  was  a  deep  round 
collar  of  the  material,  with  a  smaller 
over-collar  of  pale  oyster  gray,  both  but- 
tonholcd  in  the  white  wool,  and  the  full 
sleeves  were  gathered  into  deep  pointed 
cuffs,  buttonholed  at  both  top  and  bot¬ 
tom.  The  buttonholing  was  really 
blanket  stitch,  the  threads  being  just  the 
depth  and  distance  apart  of  the  finish  ou 
blankets. 
Remodeling  The  Old  Gown. — The 
use’  of  two  materials  now  in  vogue  is  a 
great  help  iu  maltiug  over.  For  example, 
a  blue  serge  dress  with  a  skirt  too  nar¬ 
row  for  present  modes  could  copy  a  very 
up-to-date  French  model.  A  new  skirt 
may  he  made  of  blue  foulard  with  white 
polka  riots  or  of  striped  taffeta,  aud  the 
serge  skirt  arranged  over  this  in  an 
apron  effect  in  boll)  front  aud  hack.  The 
apron  overdress  should  reach  nearly  to 
the  liem,  and  merely  show  a  very  nar¬ 
row  panel  of  the  underskirt  at  the  sides. 
The  waist,  entirely  of  serge,  may  be 
trimmed  with  the  silk  iu  any  preferred 
model;  such  as  a  cape  collar  and  deep 
cuffs,  with  full  serge  sleeves,  or  a  vest 
if  more  becoming.  If  the  serge  waist  is 
worn  or  not  practical  for  making  over, 
the  waist  may  be  of  silk  with  bands, 
cuffs,  aud  other  trimmings  of  serge.  A 
separate  skirt,  too.  may  be  made  to  look 
like  a  one-piece  gown  by  making  a  blouse 
of  Georgette  crape  or  silk  voile  of  the 
same  color,  aud  trimming  this  with  ma¬ 
terial  like  the  skirt,  which  may  form 
bands  or  bretelles,  or  be  used  in  com¬ 
bination  iu  the  sleeves.  This  gives  two 
dresses  in  one.  as  the  skirt  may  be  worn 
with  this  waist  to  look  like  one  gown, 
or  with  separate  wash  waists  if  desired. 
Materials, — Alpac-a,  mohair  and  Sicil¬ 
ian.  costing  from  75  cents  to  $2  a  yard, 
both  plain  and  in  stripes  and  checks,  are 
offered  in  shades  of  blue,  brown,  black 
and  gray.  As  they  are  cool,  shed  dust, 
and  do  not  rumple,  they  are  excellent  for 
driving,  motoring  and  general  wear  in 
coats,  skirts  and  suits.  Grenadine  and 
silk  etamine  are  seen  as  rivals  of  voile 
and  chiffon.  Grenadine  wears  better  than 
any  other  thin  material,  and  is  very  ser¬ 
viceable.  White  materials  of  all  kinds 
are  much  iu  favor;  white  mohair,  serge 
and  gabardine  are  seen  iu  tailored  suits, 
coats  and  separate  skirts,  and  white 
wash  goods  are  likely  to  be  very  popular. 
Roman  stripes  are  newer  than  the  plain 
awning  stripes,  in  the  heavy  cottons 
(sports  stripes  as  they  are  called  l  used 
for  making  separate  skirts  and  blazer 
coats.  Readymade  skirts  of  these  mate¬ 
rials  are  often  a  plain  full  model  but¬ 
toned  all  down  the  front,  but  a  newer 
style  is  to  have  the  skirt  kill  pleated  all 
the  way  around.  Sometimes  there  is  a 
yoke  to  which  the  pleats  are  attached, 
sometimes  the  pleats  arc  full  length,  but 
stitched  flat  at  top  to  form  a  yoke.  No 
color  combination  seems  too  gorgeous  for 
these  stripes :  however,  such  a  skirt  is 
more  serviceable  than  a  white  one.  and 
is  very  desirable  for  country  wear.  Com¬ 
bined  with  a  white  middy  blouse  or  smock, 
or  for  we  r  with  a  sweater,  both  the 
young  girl  and  her  elder  sister  will  like 
a  Roman  striped  -ports  skirt. 
Dress  Accessories. — "Summer  furs” 
are  displayed  everywhere,  usually  taking 
the  form  of  scarfs  trimmed  with  animal 
heads,  fox  leading,  both  white  aud  red. 
However,  ruffs  of  nut  line  and  feathers  are 
quite  as  fashionable  as  the  furs,  and  ex¬ 
ceeding  varied  in  style.  Many  women 
find  these  ruffs  becoming  when  they  leave 
off  an  outside  wrap.  A  ruff  of  black  and 
white  nr  silvery  gray  is  often  more  be¬ 
coming  than  one  that  is  all  black.  The 
ostrich  feather  boas  arc  usually  finished 
with  long  chenille  tassels,  the  nutliut*  ruffs 
with  ribbon  loops,  often  ornamented  with 
artificial  flowers.  .V  color  combination 
often  seen  this  Spring  is  pale  pink  with 
dark  blue.  Crape  waists  for  wear  with 
dark  blue  suits,  are  pale  pink,  trimmed 
with  dark  blue  chiffon,  and  some  of  the 
dark  blue  serge  dresses  show  a  lingerie 
vest  of  pale  pink  batiste.  Pale  pink  un¬ 
derwear  seems  more  prevalent  than  white, 
in  lisle  and  knit  cotton  as  well  as  silk  and 
batiste. 
