894 
Z>he  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
Quilted  Tktmmixg. — The  little  pina¬ 
fore,  hat.  and  basket  shown  at  the  left  in 
the  group  of  children  illustrated  is  an  ex¬ 
ample  of  quilting  used  as  trimming — a 
new  use  of  old-fashioned  handiwork.  The 
pinafore,  perfectly  plain  in  Cllt,  was  made 
of  heavy  unbleached  cotton,  trimmed  in 
pink  or  blue.  The  band  at  the  bottom, 
and  the  patch  pockets,  were  of  unbleached 
having  a  piping  of  the  same  color  in  per¬ 
cale  or  cambric.  The  neck  and  arm-hole 
are  also  piped  with  the  color,  and  the 
pinafore  buttoned  in  the  back.  The  little 
garment  was  quaint  and  pretty,  and  very 
simple  to  make.  The  little  hat.  made 
after  the  ordinary  pattern  for  children's 
washing  hats,  had  a  brim  quilted  to  match 
the  pinafore,  with  an  ordinary  full  crown 
buttoned  in  place,  or  attached  with  snap 
fasteners.  There  wore  also  little  sun- 
bonnets,  quilted  in  the  same  way.  with  a 
full  crown  buttoned  on.  The  Tittle  bas¬ 
ket  carried  was  also  made  of  the  un¬ 
bleached  material,  quilted  to  match,  and 
would  delight  the  heart  of  a  child.  The 
whole  outfit  was  so  pretty,  and  so  easily 
made  and  laundered,  that  it  recommended 
itself  for  practical  wear,  and  it  is  not  at 
all  difficult  to  quilt  these  trimmings  on 
the  sewing  machine. 
Scalloped  Flounces. — The  little  dress 
shown  in  the  center  is  suitable  for  fl&xon, 
dimity,  nainsook  or  lawn;  it  is  a  very 
plaiu  pattern  of  gathered  skirt  and  waist, 
buttoning  down  the  hack.  The  scalloped 
trimming,  with  no  lace  edges  to  tear  in 
the  washing,  is  effective,  and  in  the  pres¬ 
ent  mode.  The  scallops  may  he  bound  or 
hemmed :  they  are  pretty  bound  with  a 
color,  but  as  some,  conscientious  dealers 
refuse  to  guarantee  any  color  now  one 
must  be  sure  that  it  will  wash  well.  While 
the  dress  as  figured  is  of  thin  washing 
material,  it  is  a  pretty  model  for  challie 
or  other  soft  woolen  goods,  having  the 
scallops  bound  with  silk. 
A  Panel  With  Pockets. — The  little 
dress  at  tlie  right  is  a  plain  smock  model, 
cut  with  a  pauel  down  the  front  that  is 
extended  to  the  under-arm  seam  at  each 
side  to  form  pockets,  the  bottom  of  the 
pocket  being  stitched  as  outlined.  The 
fullness  at  the  shoulders  is  smocked  at 
each  side  at  both  back  and  front ;  the 
dress  buttons  down  the  back,  and  is  much 
easier  1o  iron  if  instead  of  a  short  placket, 
it  is  buttoned  all  the  way  down.  A  little 
design  in  cross-stitch  is  worked  at  the  top 
of  the  panel,  near  the  neck,  which  is  sim¬ 
ply  hound.  The  full  sleeves  are  gathered 
into  bands.  The  little  hat  is  of  soft 
straw,  leghorn  or  one  of  its  imitations, 
trimmed  with  a  wreath  of  embroidered 
flowers.  Such  a  hat,  if  not  real  leghorn, 
is  inexpensive,  and  it  is  not  difficult  to 
embroider  the  flowers,  either  crewel  or 
heavy  silk  being  used.  Such  a  trimming 
is  very  ranch  in  vogue  this  season,  and  is 
especially  for  children’s  hats. 
A  Skirt  and  Blouse. — In  the  second 
picture,  one.  of  the  popular  sports  skirts 
is  worn  by  the  figure  at  the  left ,  it  is  a 
full  gored  model  having  a  set-011  belt  but¬ 
toning  with  strap  ends,  and  under-set 
pockets  with  a  narrow  buttoned  flap 
standing  up  diagonally.  Such  Skirts 
should  always  have  a  belt  of  the  same 
material,  set.  on  or  adjustable:  in  many 
cases  the  belt  is  part  of  the  skirt.  A 
separate  belt  is  rarely  seen  with  a  sports 
skirt.  The  blouse  figured  is  a  plain  model 
of  white  voile,  the  large  shawl  collar, 
ruffles  at  wrist  and  down  the  front  hav¬ 
ing  a  narrow  edge  of  crochet  or  tatting. 
It  will  be  noticed  that  the  armholes  are 
large,  though  the  waist  does  not  have  a 
dropped  shoulder.  Although  so  plain  this 
blouse  is  an  excellent  model  for  thin 
fabrics.  The  parasol  carried  is  merely 
Japanese  paper,  but  it  has  been  rendered 
more  ornate  by  the  addition  of  a  bangle 
of  imitation  jade,  attached  by  a  tinsel 
cord  on  which  are  stung  some  odd-look¬ 
ing  colored  heads.  When  the  parasol  is 
closed  the  bracelet  is  slipped  over  it  to 
keep  it  shut.  This  gives  a  quaint  touch 
suggestive  of  an  Oriental  curio  shop,  and 
adds  dignity  to  the  inexpensive  parasol. 
These  Japanese  parasols  are  again  in 
vogue  for  country,  seashore  and  moun¬ 
tains. 
A  Taffeta  Coat. — The  silk  coat 
shown  is  a  useful  model,  here  developed 
very  simply.  There  is  a  band  of  velvet 
around  the  shawl  collar  and  at  the  lower 
edge;  the  fullness  at  the  waist  is  shirred 
under  a  chain  of  silk-covered  cord.  As 
is  stated  elsewhere,  these  silk  separate 
Coats  are  very  fashionable  this  Summer, 
in  loose  and  semi-fitting  models.  All  sorts 
is  to  be  worn  with  white  or  light-colored 
afternoon  and  evening  dresses.  1  m c  one 
who  considers  economy  will  select  a  color 
that  harmonizes  with  her  general  ward¬ 
robe.  The  hat  figured  is  a  style  suitable 
to  wear  with  thin  wash  dresses  of  the 
lingerie  type;  it  is  leghorn  trimmed  with 
pastel  blue  ribbon  folded  over  the  crown 
and  formed  into  an  up-standing  how  at 
the  back,  with  a  little  wreath  of  pink 
moss  rose-buds  across  the  front.  The 
hag  carried  is  one  of  the  popular  fancy 
shapes  gathered  into  a  small  round  bot¬ 
tom,  which  is  decorated  with  fancy  tassels, 
while  near  the  top  it  is  shirred  out  on  an 
embroidery  hoop,  with  a  little  attached 
flounce,  and  then  closed  with  draw- 
strings.  These  fancy  bags  are  extremely 
varied  in  shape,  and  fanciful  in  decora¬ 
tion.  many  being  trimmed  with  beads  put 
on  in  Homan  stripes. 
The  Shout  Skirt. — The  present  pros¬ 
pect  is  that  the  short  skirt  will  continue 
in  vogue  for  some  time  yet.  Foreign  de¬ 
signers  favor  it,  and  the  large  whole¬ 
sale  manufacturers  of  this  country  en¬ 
dorsed  it.  at  their  recent  convention,  011 
the  ground  that  its  smart  and  youthful 
effect  gives  it  universal  popularity.  The 
critics  of  women’s  clothes  who  formerly 
complained  that  long  skirts  were  unsani- 
tary  filth-catchers,  are  now  complaining 
that  short  skirts  are  immodest.  It  is  true 
that  we  see  some  exaggerated  styles  with 
skirt  well  above  the  high  shoe-top.  but 
these  are  exceptions.  The  fullness  of 
some  shirred  and  flounced  skirts  makes 
them  look  shorter  than  they  really  are; 
they  would  be  most  uncomfortable  if 
longer. 
Sports  Dresses. — What  are  called 
sports  dresses  are  a  separate  skirt  worn 
with  a  smock  or  coat  blouse.  The 
fashion  is  pretty,  youthful,  and  eminent¬ 
ly  suitable  for  country  wear,  hut  the  sim¬ 
ple  styles  originally  made  for  real  use 
are  now  reproduced  in  delicate  materials 
— for  example,  a  full  skirt  of  flowered 
wash  silk  with  a  blouse  of  crepe  do  chine. 
On  the  other  hand,  there  are  pretty 
smocks  of  plain  linen,  to  wear  with 
striped  skirts,  or  striped  coat  blouses  to 
wear  with  the  plain  skirt.  Where  one 
1ms  a  linen  dress  that  has  lost,  its  fresh¬ 
ness,  it  is  quite  possible  to  make  over  the 
skirt  to  give  more  width,  if  necessary, 
shortening  it  to  fashionable  brevity,  and 
then  wear  it.  with  smocks  or  coat;  blouses. 
A  natural-colored  linen  skirt  looks  well 
with  a  delft  blue  linen  smock,  tlio  smock¬ 
ing  stitched  in  twine  color  and  old  rose, 
or  with  a  striped  blouse,  which  need  not 
necessarily  show  linen  color  in  its  stripes, 
though  we  have  seen  some  pretty  mate¬ 
rials  showing  a  combination  of  twine, 
rose  and  blue  or  black.  In  one  case,  an 
entirely  obsolete  gray  linen  dress  was 
taken  apart,  the  waist  being  too  badly 
worn  for  further  service.  The  skirt,  how¬ 
ever,  gave  enough  unworn  material  to 
make  a  smock,  its  gathers  being  embroid¬ 
ered  in  green,  rose  ami  black.  This  was 
worn  with  a  skirt  of  jade  green  kinder¬ 
garten  cloth  or  gal  a  tea,  which  was  of 
course  much  less  expensive  than  linen, 
but  made  a  cool  and  pretty  combination. 
We  have  seen  some  plain  linen  smocks 
trimmed  with  cretonne  flowers  cut  out 
and  appliqued  on,  which  is  easy  and  effec¬ 
tive.  One  dull  gray-blue  smock  had  large 
pink  roses  applied  at  intervals  around  the 
hem ;  another  had  a  sprawly  SplAy  of 
flowers  going  up  one  side.  Some  hand¬ 
some  sports  dresses  are  made  of  plain  and 
striped  pongee.  French  ratine  and  va¬ 
rious  textures  of  cotton  ctuinine,  under  a 
variety  of  names,  are  also  used  for  such 
skirts. 
Coats  and  Blouses. — The  separate 
taffeta  coats,  as  pictured,  are  not  only 
useful  garments  of  modest  colors,  but  are 
also  shown  in  more  gorgeous  models.  We 
saw  one  recently  that  was  trimmed  with 
June  17,  191G. 
quilting,  a  loose  sacque  shape  of  corn-col¬ 
ored  silk  pongee.  Tbe  lower  part  was 
quilted  all  around  in  the  ordinary  dia¬ 
mond  pattern  for  the  depth  of  about  18 
inches,  and  above  this  was  a  border,  about 
five  inches  deep,  of  most  elaborate  quilting 
in  a  pattern  of  roses  and  foliage.  Another 
coat  of  canary  yellow  silk  was  lined  with 
malachite  green  and  trimmed  with  yellow 
silk  fringe,  the  general  style  being  that  of 
the  loose  silk  coats  worn  over  the  crino¬ 
lines  of  18(10.  A  most  gorgeous  coat  was 
of  blue  and  ruby  changeable  taffeta,  lined 
with  oerise,  with  an  embroidered  collar 
and  shirred  cuffs.  Changeable  gray  and 
black,  blue  and  black  or  golden  brown  and 
black  taffeta  make  up  handsomely;  plain 
black  taffeta  is  likely  to  look  like  mourn¬ 
ing.  but  we  see  very  attractive  coats  of 
black  satin  or  messaline.  Among  new 
blouses  we  see  very  pretty  ones  of  peri¬ 
winkle  blue — pervpnchp,  the  French  call  it 
— the  litlle  trailing  plant  known  to  Ameri¬ 
cans  as  myrtle.  A  very  attractive  model 
was  periwinkle  blue  batiste,  having  a 
double  tucked  frill  edged  with  pointer! 
petalling  of  white.  Others  had  wide  col¬ 
lars  and  revers  edged  with  folds  of  white. 
The  new  waists  of  thin  materials  are  all 
very  frilly;  frilled  collars,  frilled  cuffs,  or 
frills  down  the  front,  and  we  see  a  good 
many  in  delicate  colors — idle  or  jade 
green,  pastel  blue,  primrose  or  coral  pink. 
Many  wearers  find  these  colors  more  be¬ 
coming  with  a  white  collar  or  frill. 
Blouses  of  solid-colored  batiste,  having 
wide  collar  and  cuff's  of  white  with  large 
coin  spots  of  tbe  color,  are  very  attrac¬ 
tive.  Another  attractive  idea  was  a  tlosn 
pink  batiste  waist  having  frills  stitched  in 
black. 
Altering  and  Makhno  Over. — There 
is  one  embarrassment  to  be  looked  for  in 
buying  ready-made  dresses  this  season ; 
the  skirt  is  likely  to  be  very  short,  and 
often  there  is  not  enough  depth  of  hem  to 
lengthen  it  sufficiently  for  a  tall  woman,  if 
she  is^  conservative  in  her  tastes.  If  ihe 
material  can  he  matched  a  plain  skirt 
may  be  lengthened  by  adding  a  broad  hem 
that  is  stitched  up  on  the  right  side, 
either  with  nr  without  a  piping  at  the 
top.  Many  skirts  are  trimmed  this  year 
with  a  false  hem  put  on  the  right  side  in 
this  way.  Another  method  for  silks  and 
other  thin  materials  is  to  add  a  piece  of 
the  proper  depth,  and  then  cover  the  join 
with  a  little  frill  or  quilling,  or  with  a 
silk-covered  cord  put  on  in  waves  or 
loops.  Home  idea  oftbis  kind  is  often 
useful  in  altering  nu  old  dress.  In  mak¬ 
ing  over  a  waist  it  is  often  found  that  a 
little  fancy  stitching  in  embroidery  floss, 
if  one  has  time,  will  turn  a  simple  gar¬ 
ment  into  what  is  sold  as  a  French  blouse. 
A  blouse  of  twine-colored  voile,  worn  with 
a  brown  jacket  suit,  was  made  attrac¬ 
tive  by  simple  embroidery  in  golden 
brown  and  corn  color,  It  was  a  plain 
tailored  model  trimmed  with  straps,  which 
were  embroidered  with  little  disks  of  tlv 
two  colors,  each  strap  bordered  with  very 
fine  feather-stitching  in  brown.  This 
idea  could  he  carried  out  in  any  color 
harmonizing'  with  a  suit.  This  Mouse  had 
a  high  stock  of  brown  satin,  with  a  flar¬ 
ing  top  collar  of  the  embroidered  voile. 
Millinery. — With  .Tune  we  began  to 
see  many  white  satin  hats — small  tur¬ 
bans.  sailors,  and  curving  shapes  with 
tarn  crowns.  Most  of  them  ate  trimmed 
entirely  in  white,  though  some  show  color. 
There  are  also  new  shapes  with  straw 
brims  and  black  velvet  tain  crowns  that 
seem  to  be  quite  popular.  As  tbe  season 
Is  late,  and  Fall  hats  are  usually  with  us 
an  July  and  August,  hats  of  the  comfort¬ 
able  sports  shapes  are  already  much  re¬ 
duced  in  the  large  shops.  There  are  some 
pretty  styles  in  woven  fiber  of  twino 
color  faced  under  tbe  brim  with  color  in 
the  same  material,  the  only  trimming  be¬ 
ing  a  band  of  ribbon.  These  are  especial¬ 
ly  pretty  where  old  blue  or  rose  are  com¬ 
bined  with  the  twine  color,  or  a  soft 
shade  of  green.  Home  of  the  straw  sports 
hats  are  in  cross  stripes  and  circles  of 
color  combined  with  the  natural  straw — 
rather  too  obvious  for  good  taste.  Felt 
bats,  large  shapes  in  such  colors  as  citron, 
gold,  chartreuse,  rose,  white,  tan  and  dove 
gray  are  intended  for  seashore  and  moun¬ 
tain  wear.  Among  dress  hats  we  see  many 
handsome  large  shapes  trimmed  with  fruit 
in  garlands. 
Materials. — Cream  white  serge  and 
other  white  woolen  goods  are  popular  for 
separate  skirts,  suits  and  coats.  V  coat 
of  cream  white  cloth  is  a  useful  extra  gar¬ 
ment,  but  soils  too  easily  for  general 
wear.  We  note  white  serge  skirts  with 
dark  blue  serge  coats  offered  for  yacht¬ 
ing  and  seashore  wear.  Alpaca  is  not  yet 
stylish  here,  and  yet  it  has  become  fash¬ 
ionable  abroad,  and  is  shown  in  the  best 
shops  for  skirts,  coats  and  suits.  It  is 
now  woven  in  a  combination  of  silk  and 
wool,  that  is  soft  in  texture.  It  is  the 
best  material  made  for  wear  nu  dusty 
roads.  The  shortage  in  linens  has  on  lie  1 
out  a  great  variety  of  heavy  cotton  fab¬ 
rics,  such  as  cotton  covert  cloth,  cotton 
gabardine,  cotton  homespun,  and  various 
corded  and  twilled  fabrics.  Cotton  cor¬ 
duroy,  both  white  and  colored,  retains 
popularity  in  separate  skirts;  one  sees 
many  vivid  green  and  co-al  shades  among 
them.  While  voile  lends  in  the  thin  fig¬ 
ured  materials,  there  are  beautiful  dimi¬ 
ties.  In  fine  while  dresses  we  see  beau¬ 
tiful  models  in  washing  organdie,  trimmed 
with  eordings  and  plentings.  Home  have 
the  skirt  trimmed  with  rippled  insertions 
of  heavy  lace  set  in  with  cording.  It  is 
generally  predicted  that  lace  of  all  sorts 
is  coming  back  into  favor,  including  the 
hand-made  crochet  for  washing  blouses. 
cotton  quilted  with  colored  thread,  and  of  bright  colors  arc  used  where  the  coat 
Summer  Models  for  Little  Girls 
