1014 
7?/>e  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
July  22,  1010. 
the  cheek,  separated  in  front;  this  cheek  Since  we  have  returned  to  frills  once 
portion,  and  the  yoke  on  skirt,  are  tin-  more,  such  a  skirt  may  be  made  with  one 
ished  with  crochet  buttons.  The  waist  deep  bias  flounce  on  which  two  or  three 
is  trimmpd  with  collar  and  long  revers  of  narrow  ruffles  are  set.  Modern  petti- 
white  voile,  edged  with  Irish  crochet;  coats  are  usually  made  now  without 
the  full  sleeves  are  gathered  into  bands  drawstrings;  the  top  should  fit  nicely, 
of  check,  having  a  frill  of  white  edged  saving  elastic  run  in  a  casing,  and  be 
with  crochet  below.  The  hat.  shown  is  fastened  with  stout  snap  fasteners.  In 
a  smooth  chip  violet,  in  color,  trimmed  t,m>  materials  some  of  the  nice  ready- 
with  a  hand  of  white  and  two  prim  little  made  petticoats  are  double,  attached  to 
cabbage  roses  of  purplish  pink  set  one  «  volV‘  at.  the  toP-  As  a  rule  the 
above  the  other.  This  dress  would  give  under  section  is  gored,  the  outer  part 
a  good  idea  for  making  over  a  plain  circular,  and  there  are  thus  two  petti- 
voile  of  last  season  bv  combining  a  >n  r*no,  with  _  no  added  bulk  at 
check  with  it.  and  it  would  also  be  very  b'P,8  or„  rhis  ,s  lin  especially  good 
pretty  for  plain  and  cheek  taffeta.  In  *t.'h>  for  a  plump  woman.  A  smart- 
such  '  combinations  wherever  the  check  looking  Summer  petticoat  to  wear  under 
_  light-weight  dark  dresses  may  be  made 
A  i  of  black  lawn  figured  with  colored 
J  flowers,  iu  a  nice  mercerized  quality. 
X  This  may  be  made  double,  as  suggested, 
£  With  a  yoke,  the  outer  circular  skirt  bav- 
v - T‘L L ing  three  or  five  narrow  ruffles,  either  put 
\  ^  \\  close  togellier  or  spaced.  Such  a  skirt 
^  \  is  not  intended  for  hard  wear,  but  it  is 
\  pretty  and  inexpensive, 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
Ohildeen’S  Dresses.  —  The  dress  being  the  collar  of  v 
shown  at  the  left  iu  the  group  of  chil-  ing  down  on  each  sid 
dren  is  colored  linen,  cut  after  any  plain  collar  being  bordered 
pattern  that  will  allow  for  plenty  of  The  vestee  of  white  o 
flare.  The  collar  is  of  fine  white  batiste,  in  surplice  style.  Loi 
hemstitched  or  finished  with  colored  edged  with  two  little 
fuithersti tolling.  The  belt  is  of  the  ha-  they  might  be  gathe 
tiste  also,  folded  to  a  suitable  width,  and  baud,  with  a  finish  o 
fastened  invisibly.  We  see  girdles  of  the  lower  one  extern 
fine  white  muslin  used  with  some  of  the 
women’s  dresses  of  colored  voile,  this  be¬ 
ing  one  of  the  newer  fancies.  The  baby’s 
dress  is  of  pale  pink  washing  organdie. 
It  is  a  simple  little  slip  having  a  yoke 
front  on  which  there  is  an  embroidered 
spray,  the  fullness  being  gauged  or 
smocked  below.  The  full  bishop  sleeves 
are  gathered  into  a  narrow  hand.  We  see 
these  dresses  made  for  tiny  children  in 
pink,  pale  blue  or  pale  green  organdie, 
and  they  are  extremely  dainty.  The  U 
baby's  bonnet  is  the  ordinary  close  cap 
of  fine  white  muslin,  but  it  has  a  pink  _ _ 
ribbon,  picot-edged,  brought  around  the  - 
front,  passing  through  a  little  pearl  slide  /  I 
or  buckle  at  each  side  with  pretty  effect.  /  ife 
A  Girl’s  Scouts  Dress. — “Sports  /  ->jf 
dresses”  seem  to  mean  anything  for  out-  p4y/  I 
door  wear  now;  the  style  pictured  is  a  L-  \  1 
plain  linen  suit  that  may  also  he  used  i 
as  model  for  a  separate  sports  coat.  The  ^5- j.  y;| 
skirt  is  a  plain  four-gored  model,  having 
kilt  pleatings  forming  panels  at  back  and 
front,  but  a  gored  three-piece  skirt  would  I 
also  be  desirable,  with  set-on  pockets.  j 
The  belted  coat  has  its  fullness  laid  in  J* 
inverted  pleats  that  are  stitched  down  ^ 
yoke  length  at  the  top  and  then  merely 
confined  by  the  belt  below.  If  one  has 
a  pattern  for  a  plain  coat,  it  is  quite 
possible  to  cut  the  pleated  coat  from  it, 
by  folding  pleats  in  the  material  before 
laying  the  pattern  on  it,  pinning  them  in  back  than  the  front, 
place.  A  straight  panel  in  front  gives  a  finished  with  a  deep  1 
double-breasted  effect,  the  belt  ending  voile,  edged  at  the  tc 
under  this  panel.  White  linen  collar  a  narrow  upstanding 
and  cuffs  finish  this  coat.  The  wide-  ial,  the  girdle  beiug  1 
brimmed  hat  is  a  sports  model  of  fine  or,  basque  fashion,  in 
French  felt  iu  champagne  color,  with  a  suggests  a  pretty  mo 
band  of  brown  grosgrain  ribbon.  These  woman,  although  pic-ti 
wide  felt  hats  are  offered  for  Summer  wearer;  the  surplice 
wear  iu  all  t/he  pastel  shades.  For  a  coming  to  a  matron, 
sports  coat  of  the  cotton,  linen  or  silk-  aged  figure  would  be 
mixed  materials  now  popular,  this  same  girdle.  A  stout  won) 
style  may  be  used  with  a  sash  girdle  in-  narrower  girdle,  but  i 
stead  of  the  plain  belt.  Such  a  sports  ing  frill,  and  it  might 
suit  may  be  made  with  a  plain  skirt  bor-  upper  group  of  ruffles 
dcred  with  a  six-inch  band  of  striped  the  skirt.  It  would  b 
material,  the  stripes  up  and  down,  not 
horizontal ;  the  coat  of  striped  material. 
A  smart  and  sensible  sports  coat  to  take 
the  place  of  a  sweater  is  made  of  flan¬ 
nel  in  some  attractive  color — willow 
green,  pastel  or  Belgian  blue,  old  rose, 
gray  or  heliotrope,  either  solid  or  with  a 
contrasting  hair-line  stripe.  Such  a  coat 
pretty  and  inexpensive,  and  very  desir¬ 
able  under  a  dark  dress  of  thin  woolen 
or  silk.  In  muslin  underwear  we  find 
more  women  wearing  the  envelope  chem¬ 
ise  in  place  of  Combinations,  hut  it  should 
he  avoided  by  stout  women,  who  must 
wear  snug-fit  ting  undergarments.  Some 
of  the  new  Chemises  have  the  bottom  cut 
iu  points,  either  edged  with  lace,  or 
bound  with  a  colored  piping,  or  are  fin¬ 
ished  with  n  six-inch  pleating.  A  good 
deal  of  the  finest  underwear  has  very  lit¬ 
tle  lace  trimming,  but  is  enriched  with 
hand  embroidery  and  hemstitching. 
IbEAS  in  Neckwear. — Collars  of  wash¬ 
ing  organdie,  either  separate  or  attached 
to  a  vestee,  are  very  pretty  with  au 
edge  of  fine  tatting.  The  collar  should 
not  be  hemmed,  but  carefully  rolled,  and 
the  tatting  whipped  on.  This  is  easily 
done  by  a  careful  worker,  and  the 
collar  does  not  have  the  homemade 
look  of  a  plain  hem.  Hand  hemstitching 
<am  rarely  be  done  on  this  sort  of  col¬ 
lar,  because  the  edges  are  not  out  on  a 
straight  thread.  A  plain  hem  carefully 
made  by  hand,  and  then  finished  on  the 
right  side  with  some  sort  of  embroidery, 
either  fine  feather-stitch  or  cable  stitch 
with  an  occasional  dot  or  daisy,  is  not 
difficult,  and  if  carefully  done  suggests 
the  fine  handmade  lingerie  of  the  shops. 
A  yard  of  washing  organdie  at  45  to  90 
cents,  two  yards  wide,  is  a  useful  in¬ 
vestment  for  cuffs  and  neckwear.  The 
vestees  may  be  made  with  hand-run 
tucks,  iand  finished  with  tiny  crochet 
buttons.  One  sees  many  women  wear¬ 
ing  mourning  who  show  no  white  at  all 
— merely  the  dead  unrelieved  black — and 
it  is  especially  unbecoming  in  Summer, 
when  the  wearer  is  tired  and  overheated. 
It  is  entirely  proper  to  wear  plain  white 
organdie  collars  and  cuff's  with  the  deep¬ 
est  of  mourning,  but  lace  or  embroidery, 
other  than  plaiu  hemstitching  or  feather- 
stitching  is  not  permissible.  One  often 
sees  a  woman  in  deep  mourning  wearing 
a  china  silk  blouse  with  black  lace  in¬ 
sertion,  but  although  no  white  is  used, 
this  is  not  properly  “mourning” — it 
should  have  hemstitching  instead  of  lace. 
The  plain  silk  waist  with  white  organ¬ 
die  collar  would  he  proper  mourning.  If 
a  plain  high  stock  is  worn,  ordinary  or¬ 
gandie  may  be  cut  the  proper  width,  and 
then  merely  folded  to  a  broad  hem  on 
each  side,  the  raw  edge  turned  in,  and 
ironed  flat.  It  is  then  cut  into  required 
lengths,  the  ends  turned  iu  to  form  a 
liem  with  mitered  corners,  and  a  few 
stitches  at  the  end  will  hold  it  fiat  and 
in  place.  Such  bands  are  adjusted  with 
flat  pins;  they  are  not  intended  to  be 
laundered.  They  are  very  cheap,  look 
well,  and  are  a  time-saver,  for  a  busy 
woman  often  feels  it  a  burden  to  adjust 
cuffs  and  collars  that  must  be  fitted  and 
basted  into  place.  If  washing  organdie 
of  nice  quality  is  used,  such  bands  may 
be  hemstitched.  With  colored  linen 
dresses,  collars,  cuffs  and  vestees  of 
white  pique  are  always  desirable.  Se¬ 
lect  a  good  quality  with  a  narrow  wale; 
hem  collar  and  cuffs  very  neatly  by 
hand,  and  either  leave  plain,  or  finish 
with  a  narrow  picot  edge  of  crochet. 
The  vestee  should  button  down  the  front 
with  real  buttonholes  and  round  pearl, 
ivory  or  crochet  buttons.  Such  a  vestee. 
with  well-shaped  turn-down  collar,  will 
he  found  both  comfortable  and  becoming 
by  a  plump  middle-aged  woman,  as  well 
as  by  her  daughters,  and  a  dark  dress 
always  looks  fresh  with  these  accessor¬ 
ies.  The  vestee  should  have,  at  the  back, 
a  muslin  strip  about  three  inches  broad, 
fitted  to  the  curve  of  the  collar  band, 
where  it  is  attached,  and  long  enough  to 
reach  the  waist  line.  A  piece  of  stout 
white  elastic  is  attached  at  each  side, 
long  enough  to  pass  around  the  waist  to 
White  he  attached  to  each  side  of  the  vestee  in 
a  pan-  front.  This  keeps  tile  collar  and  vestee 
-proof,  }*>  phuiOf  without  risk  of  riding  up.  It 
thin  i-s  convenient  to  fit  a  similar  extension 
•  more  at  the  hack  of  a  stiff  turndown  collar, 
u  pet-  such  as  pique,  when  it  is  not  attached  to 
ibrnid-  a  vestee,  as  pinning  it  to  the  dress  iu  the 
<\  but  hack  often  causes  it  to  crease  in  a  point, 
\V  see  and  one  usually  finds  that,  it  docs  not  fit 
x-inch  alike  on  different  dresses.  Some  of  the 
bound  large  separate  collars  have  a  vestee  <>f 
petti-  plain  muslin  iu  front,  as  Avell  as  the  ex- 
dc  and  tension  at  the  back,  to  be  worn  under  the 
lilupod  dress  like  a  guimpe,  thus  keeping  it  al- 
1  suoh  ways  iu  place,  and  this  is  especially  need- 
i  thin  with  the  loose-fitting  waists  now  worn, 
■olored  Dress  Accessories. —  Scarfs  of  cliif- 
am  in  fon  taffeta,  about  15  inches  wide  and 
ateen ;  two  and  a  half  yards  long,  are 
wash-  trimmed  all  around  with  a  pinked 
ready-  ruclie  of  the  silk,  pleated  down  the 
uality.  Center.  They  are  to  be  worn  w»th 
Fashions  (or  Small  Children  and  Young  Girl 
voile  is  used  the  plain  is  cut  away  under 
it,  so  that  there  is  only  the  one 
thickness.  Cue  very  pretty  dress  seen  in 
a  Fifth  Avenue  shop  was  of  pale  green 
check  voile  combined  with  white  organ¬ 
die.  The  skirt  was  formed  of  the  two 
materials  joined  in  eight-inch  stripes 
running  lengthwise;  in  the  center  front 
the  organdie  formed  a  flat  panel,  while 
a  round  the  remainder  of  the  skirt  both 
materials  were  arranged  in  box  pleats, 
alternately  a  pleat  of  voile  and  a  pleat  of 
organdie.  The  waist  was  of  the  voile 
with  a  vestee  of  organdie ;  the  full  sleeves 
were  of  organdie  gathered  into  cuffs  of 
the  voile.  It  was  a  very  cool  and  dainty 
gown,  but.  quite  inexpensive  to  make. 
Summer  Underwear. — White  petti¬ 
coats  of  pique,  having  a  deep  flouuee 
with  embroidered  scallops,  are  shadow- 
