1108 
T>'hc  RURAL.  NEW-YORKER 
The  Home 
For  The  Elder  Woman. — Most  fash¬ 
ion  models  seem  designed  for  slim  and 
girlish  figures  and  it  is  not  always  easy 
to  find  dignified  styles  for  middle  age. 
The  design  shown  in  the  lower  picture 
gives  the  long  flowing  lines  that  dimin¬ 
ish  breadth,  while  harmonizing  with  pre¬ 
vailing  styles.  The  dress  figured  was  of 
black  marquisette  made  up  over  black 
taffeta,  hut  the  same  style  is  suitable  for 
silk  or  wool,  and  would  make  up  ad- 
Dressmaker 
young  women  also.  The  dress  at  the  left 
was  seen  in  dark  blue  and  corn  color 
Georgette  crape,  but  the  idea  is  suited 
to  any  soft  fabric  in  wool  or  silk.  The 
plain  gathered  skirt  was  made  in  two 
sections,  jonied  together  in  Vandykes; 
the  lower  part  of  the  blue,  the  upper 
part  corn  color.  The  waist  was  quite 
plain,  gathered  at  the  waist  line,  having 
a  yoke  of  the  dark  color  coining  down 
in  points  to  meet  the  corn -colored  lower 
part.  The  two  sections  were  joined 
plainly.  Without  any  gathers  where  the 
sleeves,  however,  were  a  combination  of 
the  two  fabrics,  the  upper  part  being  the 
material  of  the  waist,  while  the  lower 
her  arms  often  look  awkwardly  long,  and 
the  combination  of  materiel  breaks  this 
length.  The  broad  girdle  of  the  plain 
pongee  was  fastened  invisibly,  but  had 
simulated  fastenings  at  each  side;  at  one 
side  four  ball  buttons,  and  at  the  other 
side  two  torpedo-shaped  buttons  about 
'lYi  inches  long,  covered  with  the  pongee, 
and  fastened  through  loops.  The  hat 
worn  is  one  of  the  sports  shapes  of 
woven  cane,  the  brim  faced  with  rasp¬ 
berry  chiffon.  The  trimming  around  the 
crown  is  a  wreath  of  large  flat  daisies 
of  embroidered  crewel,  raspberry  color 
with  black  velvet  centers. 
A  Simple  Blue  Taffeta. — The  dress 
mirably  in  fine  French  serge  for  Fall 
wear.  The  plain  waist  is  opened  for  a 
vestee.  and  the  trimming  at  the  edges 
of  vestee  is  continued  on  each  side  of  the 
center  panel  of  the  skirt  thus  giving 
long  continuity  of  line.  The  black  mar-, 
quisette  dress  described  was  trimmed 
with  loops  of  black  satin  ribbon  stitched 
perfectly  flat,  and  finished  at  the  loop 
end  with  small  black  satin  buttons.  The 
other  end  of  the  loops  was  stitched  into 
the  seam  of  the  skirt,  while  on  the 
bodice  the  finish  was  the  same,  the  end 
of  the  loop  being  turned  under  facing  at 
the  edge.  The  opening  for  the  vestee 
was  narrowed  at  each  side  by  a  piece  of 
embroidered  chiffon  which  came  in  a 
point  below  the  belt,  coming  closer  to¬ 
ward  the  bottom,  so  as  to  narrow  the 
waist  line.  This  embroidery  was  a  com¬ 
bination  of  black,  silver  and  old  blue, 
but  plain  black  may  be  used  if  desired. 
Beaded  trimming  is  also  in  favor  for  such 
use.  and  is  often  used  with  serge  or  other 
woolen  goods.  The  sleeves  are  plain, 
but  not  absolutely  tight  at  the  upper 
part,  where  two  narrow  stitched  tucks 
Three  Models  for  the  Young  Girl 
form  a  trimming.  At  the  lower  part 
three  hands  of  ribbon,  finished  with  but-  lower 
tons,  form  a  cuff,  and  there  should  be  ^0et^ 
a  little  pleating  of  white  net  or  lisse  as  dykes, 
a  final  finish,  as  the  trimming  does  not  colore 
admit  of  a  white  cuff.  A  black  sleeve 
without  any  white  finish  always  looks  mp(jel 
uncomfortably  warm  against  the  hand,  with  i 
and  is  doubly  unbecoming  to  a  stout  pretty 
woman.  The  back  of  the  waist  has  a 
narrow  panel,  sloping  narrower  at  the  t;ve. 
waist  line,  trimmed  with  ribbon  and  but-  for  c> 
tons  like  the  front ;  this  again  reduces  girl  h 
apparent  width.  The  girdle,  with  stole 
ends,  is  trimmed  with  lines  of  ribbon  j,iain 
with  buttons  at  the  sloping  ends.  The 
vestee,  with  rolling  collar,  is  made  of 
washing  organdie,  and  is  not  stitched 
into  the  waist,  for  it  must  be  changed 
before  it  looks  soiled;  it  is  the  fresh¬ 
ness  of  such  accessories  that  marks  the 
well-dressed  woman.  These  vestees  are 
inexpensive,  and  simple  to  make.  If  de¬ 
sired  snap  fasteners  on  the  under  side 
of  the  waist  opening  may  meet  others  on 
the  organdie  vestee  but  most  of  us  find 
that  small  safety-pins  may  be  used  invisi¬ 
bly  to  hold  the  vestee  in  place.  The  hat 
shown  is  a  simple  black  straw  with  curv¬ 
ing  brim  trimmed  with  au  upstanding 
ruche  of  black  maline,  higher  at  one 
side  than  the  other.  This  style  of  hat 
trimming  always  seems  becoming  to  a 
full  face.  The  wearer  also  has  a  neat 
veil,  brought  carefully  around  the  hat. 
Nothing  is  more  unbecoming  to  a  mid¬ 
dle-aged  woman  than  straggling  locks  of 
untidy  hair,  and  a  well-chosen  veil 
should  be  put  on  neatly,  with  no  loose 
ends.  A  veil  of  black  and  white  or  black 
and  gray  will  he  found  especially  becom¬ 
ing. 
A  Dainty  Little  Frock. — The  little 
girl  figured  is  dressed  in  white  dotted 
Swiss,  trimmed  with  a  binding  of  pale 
blue  lawn.  The  skirt  is  double;  there 
is  an  underskirt  trimmed  with  two  nar¬ 
row  ruffles,  edged  with  the  blue  lawn, 
and  an  upper  skirt  also  bound  with  the 
blue  lawn,  that  just  comes  to  the  top  of 
the  ruffles.  This  makes  a  very  pretty 
frilly  skirt,  and  when  Little  Sister  out¬ 
grows  it,  the  underskirt,  may  be  let  down 
A  Becoming  Gown  for  the  Matron,  and  a  Little  Girl’s  Frock 
and  another  ruffle  added.  The  girdle  is 
a  narrow  blue  ribbon,  looped  over  with 
long  ends,  without  any  bow.  Round 
neck  and  short  full  sleeves  are  finished 
with  blue  lawn  bands,  and  a  dainty  fin¬ 
ish  is  given  by  three  rosebuds  of  pink 
ribbon,  each  with  its  touch  of  ribbon  foli¬ 
age,  one  being  at  the  side  of  the  neck, 
and  one  on  each  sleeve.  The  dress  is 
plain  and  easily  made  hut  very  dainty. 
For  The  Young  Girl. — The  three 
models  shown  in  the  upper  illustration 
are  meant  for  the  “flapper”  or  “fillette” ; 
that  is,  they  are  what  we  call  misses’ 
dresses,  though  entirely  suitable  for 
using  plaid  in  place  of  the  dark  blue. 
The  hat  worn  by  this  figure  is  one  of  the 
small  narrow-brimmed  sailor  shapes, 
trimmed  with  small  wings  put  on  each 
side  of  the  top.  In  this  case  it  was  dark 
blue  straw  trimmed  with  blue  and  white 
wings. 
Another  Combination  Dress. — The 
central  figure  shows  a  skirt  and  blouse 
combination  in  plain  and  coin-spotted 
pongee.  The  model  seen  had  a  plain 
gathered  skirt  of  raspberry  pongee,  while 
the  waist  was  cream-white  pongee  with  a 
raspberry  spot  the  size  of  a  silver  quar¬ 
ter.  The  blouse  was  u  plain  shirt-waist 
model  with  a  round  collar  of  the  mate¬ 
rial,  and  a  tie  of  the  plain  pongee.  The 
straight  panel.  On  either  side  a  shirred 
panel  was  laid  over  it,  not  extending 
right  up  to  the  waist,  and  united  with 
the  gathered  back,  forming  two  pockets. 
The  pockets  were  continuous  with  the 
panel,  which  was  shirred  at  the  top,  the 
upstanding  frill  showing  a  rose-colored 
lining,  while  another  shirring  at  the  bot¬ 
tom  of  the  pocket,  again  narrowed  the 
panel,  and  allowed  it  to  stand  out,  show¬ 
ing  a  rose-colored  facing.  There  was  a 
narrow  folded  girdle;  the  waist  was  fas¬ 
tened  invisibly  in  front.  The  hat  worn 
was  a  wide  Tuscan  straw,  the  brim  faced 
with  pink  chiffon,  the  only  trimming  be¬ 
ing  a  pink  gros-grain  hand.  Variations 
of  the  shirred  pockets  are  seen  on  many 
August  19,  1910. 
of  the  new  gowns,  but  there  was  novelty 
in  this  plan  of  continuing  the  pockets  in 
panel  form.  Sometimes  the  shirred  poc¬ 
ket  is  attached  to  the  girdle,  and  some¬ 
times  there  is  a  folded  pocket  that  gives 
the  effect  of  paniers. 
Dress  Accessories. — “ITse  a  shoe¬ 
string  for  a  belt,  and  you’ll  be  in  style,” 
remarked  a  girl  who  was  studying '  late 
Summer  dresses.  Separate  blouses  and 
skirts  have  been  greatly  worn  all  Sum¬ 
mer  but  earlier  models  were  chiefly  seen 
with  attached  belts,  either  forming  part 
of  the  yoke,  or  an  applied  trimming.  Now 
we  see  Separate  leather  belts  used  in 
narrow  widths,  and  narrow  ribbon  belts 
are  used  with  thin  materials.  A  black 
patent  leather  belt  piped  with  white  or 
a  color,  and  with  plain  harness  buckle, 
is  always  in  good  taste  with  a  plain 
linen  dress,  either  for  the  little  girl  or 
her  big  sister.  In  addition  to  the  short 
neck  ruffs,  long  fluffy  feather  boas  are 
appearing  in  Fall  styles,  as  foreign  fash¬ 
ion  demands  them;  some  very  handsome 
ones  are  in  combinations  of  two  colors, 
such  as  mauve  and  violet,  French  blue 
and  pule  blue,  etc.  In  ruehings  there 
are  broad  pleatings  of  crone  de  chine  in 
cream  color,  having  a  half-inch  hem¬ 
stitched  hem  of  a  color,  old  rose,  coral, 
Gopenhagcu  or  lavender.  Such  a  pleat¬ 
ing  makes  au  attractive  trimming  for  the 
neck  of  a  one-piece  dress  or  crepe  de 
chine  blouse.  An  attractive  now  ruch- 
ing  used  to  make  fichus  is  a  band  of  net 
about  10  inches  broad,  trimmed  with  two 
two-inch  ruffles,  one  along  the  edge,  and 
one  about  three  inches  above  it.  This  is 
very  pretty  when  arranged  in  fichu  form. 
J  he  plain  band  of  net  edged  with  one 
ruffle,  at  50  cents  a  yard,  also  makes  an 
attractive  simple  fichu.  Some  of  the  Fall 
walking  dresses  of  dark  cloth  hove  deep 
gauntlet  cuffs  and  rolled  collar  of  fine 
white  organdie  or  net  edged  with  ruffles. 
These  dresses  are  often  rather  loose  fit¬ 
ting,  of  the  coat  style.  Beading  and 
woolen  embroidery  are  still  seen  among 
the  dress  trimmings.  A  novel  use  of  the 
woolen  embroidery  was  on  a  black  satin 
bathing  suit.  Around  nock  and  short 
sleeves  was  a  bold  design  of  sprays  and 
disks  in  heavy  orange  wool,  while  a  row 
of  blanket  stitch  in  wool  finished  the 
top  of  hem,  the  girdle  being  tipped  with 
orange  tassels.  The  bathing  suit  was 
one  of  the  simple  slip-on  models,  rather 
like  a  little  girl's  dress,  to  be  worn  over 
a  knitted  combination.  The  same  style 
of  woolen  embroidery  would  finish  a  lit¬ 
tle  girl’s  dress  of  serge  or  challie  very  at¬ 
tractively.  A  simple  trimming  that  gives  a 
good  effect  is  made  by  covering  ball  but¬ 
ton-molds  with  a  fabric,  and  attaching 
them  with  loops  of  embroidery  silk  three- 
fourths  or  one  inch  long.  They  are  put 
on  as  ornaments  like  ordinary  buttons, 
or  used  to  edge  bands  or  sash  ends. 
For  Young  Wearers. — For  everyday 
wear,  the  little  girl,  up  to  12  years, 
should  have  bloomers  to  match  her  ging¬ 
ham.  linen  or  chambray  dresses,  in  place 
of  petticoats.  She  is  then  free  to  exer¬ 
cise  after  the  modern  fashion,  and  cer¬ 
tainly  the  bloomers  save  laundry  work. 
In  many  cases  the  waist  and  bloomers 
are  fastened  together,  and  the  skirt  is 
then  buttoned  on  at  the  waist,  the  but¬ 
tons  put  in  groups,  if  small  ones,  to 
give  an  ornamental  effect,  or  large  pearl 
buttons  being  spaced  at.  intervals.  With 
a  pleated  skirt  this  is  especially  desir¬ 
able.  as  it.  is  a  convenience  in  ironing. 
With  dark  Winter  drosses  serge  bloomers, 
dark  blue,  green  or  brown,  according  to 
the  prevailing  color  of  the  dress,  are  de¬ 
sirable.  Fine  white  or  thin  muslin  dress¬ 
es  call  for  white  petticoats,  but  a  .sen¬ 
sible  mother  will  see  that,  the  trimming 
does  not  include  flimsy  laces,  that  are 
sure  to  be  torn  in  washing.  The  nicest 
underwear  for  children  is  very  simple, 
and  where  it  is  made  at  home  crocheted 
lace  is  often  used,  for  it.  is  serviceable 
and  pretty,  A  surprising  amount  of  cro¬ 
cheted  lace  made  by  Syrian  and  Armen¬ 
ian  women  is  sold  very  cheaply  by  spe¬ 
cialty  shops,  Irish,  filet,  and  plain  cro¬ 
chet.  Muslin  drawers  for  girls  up  to  12 
or  1-i  years  are  now  usually  gathered 
into  a  band  at  the  knee,  knickerbocker 
fashion  :  the  band  is  not  tight,  bat  loose 
enough  to  slip  over  the  knee  without 
binding.  The  band  is  edged  with  lace 
or  sometimes  made  of  embroidered  inser¬ 
tion.  The  same  knickerbocker  style  is 
used  for  women’s  combinations  of  crepe 
de  chine  or  glove  silk.  We  have  seen 
some  elastic  girdles  offered  as  a  substi¬ 
tute  for  corsets  for  young  girls  who  have 
got  beyoud  the  age  of  boneless  waists; 
they  arc  broad  enough  to  come  down  over 
the  abdomen  and  just  above  the  waist 
line,  where  they  are  re-enforced  with  cot¬ 
ton  material ;  stocking  supporters  are 
attached.  Women  wear  these  girdles  for 
swimming  and  other  athletic  sports,  and 
they  are  also  advised  for  patients  con¬ 
valescing  from  a  surgical  operation,  who 
could  not  wear  an  ordinary  boned  corset. 
We  saw  them  recently  offered  for  00 
cents  and  $1,89. 
Autumn  Blouses.  —  Among  new 
blouses  are  severely  tailored  styles  in 
crepe  de  chine,  black,  navy  blue,  coral, 
flesh  or  white.  They  are  for  wear  with 
plaiu  tailored  suits,  and  as  the  light 
colors  wash  well  they  nre  both  pretty  and 
practical.  More  dressy  are  pretty  models 
in  radium  silk  combined  with  embroid¬ 
ered  Georgette  crepe.  Colored  linen 
blouses  with  white  collars  are  made  in 
plain  tailored  styles.  Most  beautiful  of 
all  blouses  are  some  made  from  French 
handkerchief  linen  trimmed  with  real 
Valenciennes  lace.  One  large  shop  says 
that  there  will  be  no  more  of  this  linen 
at  present,  and  the  lace  is  equally  rar-> ; 
