1343 
October  21,  101G. 
RURAL  N  E  W  -  YORKER 
Coat  Dresses. — The  one-piece  dress 
leads  for  Fall  wear,  and  many  of  those 
seen  on  New  York  streets  are  wlmt  are 
called  coat  dresses — a  sort  of  redingoto 
cut  on  plain  lines,  sometimes  belted,  and 
sometimes  having  the  waistline  defined  by  # 
a  girdle  at  the  sides,  while  there  is  a 
straight  panel  in  front,  from  neck  to 
hem.  Others  are  pleated  from  a  yoke, 
and  confined  by  a  narrow  girdle,  while 
some  have  a  bolero  or  little  jacket.  In 
all  cases  the  outline  is  plain,  though  some 
are  quite  elaborately  trimmed  with  em¬ 
broidery,  metal  and  woolen  effects  being 
favored  in  such  trimming.  The  figure  at 
left  in  first  illustration  shows  one  of 
these  coat  dresses,  the  model  being  mid¬ 
night  blue  serge.  It  was  absolutely 
plain,  with  a  full-length  panel  at  back 
and  front,  the  wide  coat  rovers  being 
faced  with  silk  of  the  same  color.  The 
only  trimming  was  cavalier  pocket  flaps 
at  each  side,  which  were  of  the  serge, 
heavily  embroidered  in  bright-colored 
crewels,  several  shades  of  green  and 
coral.  These  flaps  were  piped  around  the 
edge  with  black  silk,  and  at  the  bottom 
there  were  four  fiat  loops  and  ends  of 
black  gr os-graiil  ribbon  extending  below 
the  flap,  like  a  separated  fringe.  At  the 
back  of  the  neck  was  a  little  collar  of 
seal-dyed  coney  fur,  and  bands  of  the 
same  fur  defined  the  cuffs.  '1  lie  hat- 
worn  by  this  figure  is  one  of  the  high 
military  toques  having  a  blue  corded 
silk  crown  and  close  brim  of  velvet,  the 
trimming  being  a  wreath  of  black  and 
gold  leaves.  A  dress  of  the  type  shown 
is  so  simple  that  it  presents  few  difficul¬ 
ties  to  the  home  dressmaker,  and  it  is 
not  difficult  to  select  a  style  that  will 
be  becoming  to  any  figure. 
urious  beyond  description — glowing  col¬ 
ors  in  Velvet,  lined  with  rich  brocade,  and 
trimmed  with  costly  fur,  but  more  modest 
fabrics  may  be  made  up  very  prettily,  and 
sueh  a  garment  is  very  useful. 
Two  Dresses  ix  One. — The  central 
figure,  and  the  one  at  the  right  in  the 
group  of  three,  shows  how  one  “best” 
dress  may  be  made  useful  both  for  after¬ 
noon  and  evening  wear,  by  the  use  of  two 
a  cord,  and  the  seams  should  be  bon  d 
to  hold  it  in  shape.  It  is  put  on  over 
the  skirt,  and  fits  as  closely  as  though 
the  two  were  joined  together :  the  silk 
belt  prevents  any  gap  from  showing  if 
the  bodice  rides  up.  The  model  soon  was 
a  soft  blue  taffeta:  the  surplice  fichu 
forming  the  trimming  of  the  bodice  was 
cream-colored  lace,  crossed  in  front,  and 
fastened  at  the  left  side  with  a  large 
pink  satin  rose.  The  sleeves  were  frills 
of  the  same  lace.  Many  evening  dresses 
of  this  type  have  draperies  of  gold  or 
silver  lace,  or  spangled  net,  these  me¬ 
tallic  trimmings  being  very  fashionable. 
One  evening  dress  seen  was  black  bro¬ 
caded  taffeta  having  panier  draperies  and 
surplice  liehit  of  black  net  covered  with 
A  Suggestion  For  The  Smaij,  Girl. 
— The  child’s  dress  figured  was,  in  the 
original,  a  party  frock  of  silk  and  chif¬ 
fon,  but  it.  was  so  pretty  that  it  sug¬ 
gested  possibilities  for  combining  two 
materials,  such  as  plain  and  flowered 
challie.  In  the  original,  the  full  shirred 
waist,  which  was  quite  short-waistod, 
was  of  pink  chiffon,  the  skirt  of  pink 
silk,  opening  over  two  gathered  panels 
of  the  chiffon,  one  at  each  side  of  the 
front.  At  the  bottom  of  the  panels  were 
five  little  shirred  tucks,  and  the  skirt 
was  tied  together  over  each  panel  with 
a  butterfly  bow.  Instead  of  a  hem.  the 
skirt  was  finished  around  the  bottom  and 
at  the  edges  of  the  panels  with  a  cord¬ 
ing.  The  round  neck  and  sleeves  are  fin¬ 
ished  with  a  little  ruffle  and  the  girdle 
has  little  bows  at  the  top  of  the  panels. 
This  dress  would  be  pretty  with  waist 
and  panels  of  flowered  challie,  with  a 
plain  challie  skirt,  or  a  combination  of 
plain  silk  with  woolen  goods. 
The  New  Manti.es. — Fall  and  Winter 
fashions  show  cloaks  or  mantles  (for  we 
have  gone  back  to  the  old-fashioned 
term)  large,  enough  to  envelope  the  wear¬ 
er  completely.  Some  are  shirred  from  a 
deep  round  yoke,  and  trimmed  with 
bands  of  shirring,  others  have  a  yoke 
edged  with  flounces,  and  many  have  deep 
cape  collars  of  fur.  The  mantle  figured 
was  a  full  circular  cape  of  old  gold 
broadcloth  with  a  satin  lining;  it  had  a 
large  collar  of  musquash  and  was  fast¬ 
ened  by  six  large  buttons  covered  with 
the  cloth,  spaced  in  two  groups.  There 
was  an  armhole  at  each  side  formed  by 
leaving  a  slit  in  a  seam,  and  edging  it 
was  a  fold  of  the  cloth  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  deep,  which  turned  inward, 
and  closed  the  slut  when  the  hands  were 
not  put  through  it.  A  mantle  of  this  sort 
is  a  very  useful  extra  wrap,  if  made  of 
serviceable  material,  as  it  may  be  put 
right  over  a  jacket  suit  when  driving  or 
maturing  in  severe  weather  or  in  the 
evening.  For  a  girl  living  iu  the  coun¬ 
try,  such  a  mantle  may  be  made  like  an 
army  cloak,  of  blue  cloth  lined  with  red 
flannel;  it  is  very  jaunty  in  appearance, 
and  extremely  warm  and  comfortable, 
young  girls  of  the  ‘'flapper”  age  will  en¬ 
joy  the  military  cloak  all  the  more  if 
provided  with  brass  buttons.  If  a  light¬ 
weight  cloth  is  used,  there  should  be  a 
flannel  interlining,  whether  the  visible 
lining  is  flannel  or  a  lighter  material.  A 
flowered  lining  is  very  pretty.  There  is 
often  for  enough  in  some  old  set  to  make 
a  collar,  or  trimming  for  one.  Some  of 
the  new  mantles  are  gorgeous  and  lux¬ 
Coat  Dress  for  Street  Wear, 
different  waists.  Many  a  girl  to  whom  a 
real  evening  dress  is  a  luxury  feels,  OUCtl 
or  twice  a  year,  oil  some  special  occa¬ 
sion,  that  she  is  “somehow  different”  be¬ 
cause  she  does  not  possess  one.  A  dress 
of  chiffon  taffeta  of  becoming  color,  quite 
suitable  for  “best”  when  evening  dress 
is  not  desired,  can  be  transformed  by 
the  separate  waist  shown.  Any  becom¬ 
ing  color  may  be  chosen,  such  as  a  soft 
blue,  old  rose,  champagne  or  almond,  wil¬ 
low  green  or  wistaria,  but  we  would  se¬ 
lect  any  heliotrope  or  lavender  shade 
with  care,  as  many  of  them,  other  than 
the  pinkish  or  orchid  tones,  take  a  gray¬ 
ish  or  brownish  cast  under  artificial  light. 
The  full  skirt  is  straight  breadths,  gath¬ 
ered  at  the  waist;  the  trimming  two 
2i4-inch  ruffles,  put  on  so  that  they  slope 
up  in  a  curve  at  each  side.  These  ruf¬ 
fles  are  gathered  on  cords,  and  arc  fin¬ 
ished  at  the  edge  with  a  cord  instead  of 
a  hem.  The  skirt  is  attached  to  a  plain 
straight  waistband  of  the  silk,  six  inches 
deep,  which  is  fastened  snugly  with  hooks, 
close  together,  so  that:  it  will  not  slip  and 
permit  the  skirt  to  sag. 
Afternoon  a  n i>  Evening  Waists. — 
The  evening  waist  is  a  snug-fitting  little 
bodice  booked  closely  down  the  middle 
of  the  back.  The  lower  edge,  which 
points  a  little  below  the  waist  line,  in 
the  center  of  the  front,  is  finished  with 
and  Child’s  Simple  Frock 
iridescent  spangles;  there  was  a  girdle 
of  peacock  blue  fastened  by  a  large  cop¬ 
per-colored  rose.  The  other  waist  shown 
for  the  same  dress  is  a  loose  over-blouse 
of  panne  velvet  of  the  same  color,  having 
tucks  in  the  elbow  sleeves  and  on  the 
shoulder.  It  is  put  on  over  the  head, 
and  hooked  invisibly  under  one  arm.  The 
sleeved  guimpe  is  of  chiffon  or  Georgette 
crape  of  the  same  color,  but  xvhite  net 
may  also  be  used,  thus  providing  a  third 
variation  of  the  one  dress. 
Colors  and  Fabrics. — “Triumphant 
colors,"  the  French  dressmakers  call  the 
brilliant  greens,  glowing  reds,  warm 
blues  and  golden  tones  now  appearing. 
There  is  an  amazing  gorgeousness  about 
many  new  fabrics  and  trimmings,  and 
we  are  promised  a  bright-colored  Winter. 
The  plurn  and  burgundy  shades  will  be 
especially  becoming  to  gray  haired  wom¬ 
en,  also  warm  shades  of  taupe  and  prune. 
The  browns  range  from  the  dark  negro 
head  to  a  clear  amber.  Beaver,  asphalt, 
catawba,  laurel  and  bottle  green,  seagull 
gray  and  rose  du  Barry,  a  shade  richer 
and  softer  than  American  Beauty,  are 
among  the  new  colors.  In  addition  to 
the  plain  wool  velours  there  is  eordonne 
velours,  with  a  slightly  ribbed  effect. 
Velveteen  has  returned  to  its  old-time 
favor,  a  new  fabric  being  corded  velve¬ 
teen,  which  has  a  very  fine  rib  iu  it;  it 
is  soft  and  fine,  and  we  saw  it  recently, 
32  inches  wide,  for  80  cents  a  yard. 
Many  velveteens  are  only  21  to  23  inches 
wide,  which  must  be  considered  in  plan¬ 
ning  a  pattern.  Very  silky  velveteens 
23  inches  wide,  were  seen  for  $1.25  a 
A  Winter  Mantle,  and  Two  Gowns  in  One 
yard;  45-inch  velveteen  at  $1.50  a  yard 
was  desirable  for  suits  and  coats.  Cor¬ 
duroy  remains  in  fiiVor:  we  see  a  nice 
quality,  wide  wale,  for  84  cents  a  yard, 
prices  ranging  up  to  $2  or  more.  Cloak¬ 
ing  corduroys  are  double  width.  Tri- 
cotine,  known  also  as  wool  jersey,  stock¬ 
inet  or  Tyrolean  cloth,  is  a  new  and 
fashionable  fabric  for  coats,  suits  and 
dresses.  All  sorts  of  colors  are  seen,  in¬ 
cluding  mustard  and  amber.  Unfin¬ 
ished  worsteds  chocked  with  self  color. 
54  inches  wide,  are  $2.50  a  yard;  soft 
finished  worsteds  with  self-colored  stripes, 
30-ineh.  are  $2.25  a  yard,  and  there  is 
much  variety  in  mannish  striped  suitings, 
54-iuch,  at  $2.50  and  $3.50  a  yard. 
Fall  Millinery. — Generally  speaking, 
hats  are  trimmed  very  simply  this  Fall, 
sometimes  no  more  than  a  single  orna¬ 
ment,  deftly  poised  at  the  stylish  angle. 
The  metallic  effects  so  popular^  in  dress 
goods  and  trimmings  are  seen  in  millin¬ 
ery  also.  There  are  many  jaunty  tri¬ 
cornes,  with  one  point  standing  out  far 
beyond  the  others,  modified  sailors,  \x  ide 
brimmed  models,  many  with  Tam  O’Slm li¬ 
ter  crowns  and  Henry  the  Eighth  or  beef¬ 
eater  shapes  with  shirred  crown  and 
graceful  brim.  Fur  is  often  seen  among 
millinery  trimmings.  Close-fitting  tur¬ 
bans  retain  their  popularity,  many  be¬ 
ing  trimmed  with  a  wing  or  fancy  feath¬ 
er  standing  up  at  the  back.  Conven¬ 
tional  leaves  or  flowers  sketchily  em¬ 
broidered  in  gold  thread  form  the  trim¬ 
ming  on  some  black  velvet  turbans;  the 
combination  of  gold  or  silver  “stencil  em¬ 
broidery”  on  black  is  popular  for  both 
dresses  and  millinery.  Among  the  larger 
toques  are  many  with  a  large  crown  ris¬ 
ing  high  in  the  front,  and  a  close  brim 
or  hand  below;  these  owe  their  inspira¬ 
tion  to  the  military  cap  worn  by  the 
Russian  soldiers.  Some  of  them  are 
pleated  into  the  brim  at  the  front,  so  that 
they  form  a  veritable  halo;  others  are 
more  like  a  French  chef’s  cap.  Some 
shops  have  made  a  feature  of  red  velvet 
hats,  a  deep  glowing  red.  the  shapes  in¬ 
cluding  some  with  mushroom  brims  and  a 
high  shirred  crown,  with  a  little  motif 
of  dark  fur  coining  doxvu  on  the  brim  at 
each  side.  Very  pretty  and  picturesque 
are  Napoleon  hats,  having  the  brim 
slouched  on  one  side,  and  brought  up, 
oocked-lnit  Style,  on  the  other  side  in 
curves,  fastened  with  a  rosette  or  co- 
carde.  While  black  velvet  leads  in  the 
ready-to-wear  hats  it  is  possible  to  buy 
tanne.  burgundy  and  the  violet  or  purple 
shades  in  great  variety.  There  are  many 
millinery  ornaments  of  sequins,  heads, 
or  metal  thread,  little  rosettes  or  plaques, 
that  often  form  the  only  trimming  upon  a 
hat.  Small  close  feather  turbans  are 
now  very  popular,  many  being  made  of 
the  iridescent  feathers  from  the  duck's 
breast*  also  peacock  breast,  which  makes 
a  beautiful  bat,  and  we  see  some  demure 
little  toques  of  guinea-fowl  feathers.  The 
only  trimming  on  these  toques  is  a  small 
feather  ornament.  Fancy  feathers  are 
quite  expensive,  even  when  they  owe 
their  origin  to  domestic  poultry.  There 
arc  many  pretty  ornaments  of  natural 
ostrich. 
Costume  Blouses. — The  new  waists 
sound  much  more  imposing,  described  as 
costume  blouses:  they  are  often  quite 
elaborate,  and  unless  white  or  of  pastel 
tint  must  matdh  the  suit.  Soutache 
braiding  <>r  chenille  embroidery  are  fa¬ 
vorite  decorations  on  blouses  as  well  as 
dresses.  Some  waists  of  Georgette  erepo 
were  seen  trimmed  with  rows  of  narrow 
gros-graiu  ribbon  along  the  frills  form¬ 
ing  collar  and  jabot,  while  crepe  trimmed 
with  French  blue,  and  flesh  color  trim¬ 
med  with  orchid — a  charming  combina¬ 
tion,  A  pretty  blouse  of  dark  blue  com¬ 
bined  with  beige  was  embroidered  with 
twisted  silver  circles.  The  sailor  collar 
of  beige  had  long  tabs  from  which  hung 
blue  silk  tassels.  The  basque  blouses 
have  a  narrow  belt  and  a  frilly  penlum 
about  114  or  five  inches  deep,  the  blouse 
itself  being  a  plain  tailored  style  with 
soft  rolled  collar.  Elaborate  net  blouses 
in  cream  color,  with  wide  sailor  collar 
and  jabot  edged  with  silk  lace  are  dressy, 
and  less  expensive  than  Georgette  crepe. 
A  net  waist  is  nice  to  wear  xvith  a 
bretelle  .skirt;  that  is.  with  a  skirt,  hav¬ 
ing  bretelle  or  suspender  top,  that  gives 
a  costume  effect  to  the  separate  blouse. 
Fur  Trimmings _ Coats,  street  dress¬ 
es  and  jacket  suits  all  show  fur  trim¬ 
mings.  It  is  quite  noticeable  that  the 
good  shops  now  advertise  furs  under  their 
true,  as  well  as  their  trade  name.  A 
dress  trimmed  with  Hudson  seal  is  frank¬ 
ly  described  as  dyed  muskrat;  dyed 
coney,  dyed  rabbit,  etc.,  are  called  by 
their  proper  name.  There  are  also  many 
plush-like  fabrics  used  for  trimming  that 
closely  imitate  mole,  otter,  broadtail, 
Persian  lamb,  leopard,  etc.,  and  these 
are  used  on  hats,  dresses  and  coats.  Nor 
does  the  use  of  such  imitations  mean 
that  the  garment  is  cheap;  a  handsome 
coat  of  woo!  jersey  cloth,  costing  $37.50, 
had  one  of  the  noxv  deep  round  collars 
banded  with  imitation  mole.  One  often 
sees  banding  of  fur  or  fur  fabric  about 
eight  inches  above  the  hem  of  a  skirt,  the 
coat  being  edged  with  it  also.  The  long 
coats  are  also  freely  trimmed  with  fur. 
Small  Accessories.  -  -  Old-fashioned 
people  will  think  that  the  modern  girl 
is  becoming  surprisingly  sensible  1.0  de¬ 
mand  wide-ribbed  hand-knitted  woolen 
stockings,  in  place  of  gauzy  silk,  but.  this 
warm  footwear  is  meant  for  outdoor 
sports.  These  stockings,  made  in  Scot¬ 
land,  come  in  earth  browns,  dull  givens 
and  heather  mixtures,  and  cost  $3  a 
pair.  In  gloves,  heavy  kid  of  black  with 
