1455 
tuck  around  the  hips,  the  fold  pointing 
downwards,  and  then  stitching  flat,  and 
pressing  well.  If  desired  a  piping  may 
be  put  under  the  fold.  Raising  the  skirt 
in  this  way  gives  a  little  more  width,  if 
the  skirt  is  scant.  A  short  plump  wom¬ 
an  will  often  find,  when  buying  a  tail¬ 
ored  suit,  that  while  the  coat  fits,  the 
skirt  is  too  long,  and  also  tight  at  the 
waist  line.  Instead  of  shortening  the 
skirt  at.  the  bottom,  this  should  be  lifted 
at  the  top,  which  will  give  width  enough 
to  enlarge  waist  measure  without  alter¬ 
ing  the  lines  of  the  skirt.  At  the  pres¬ 
ent  time,  however,  readymade  skirts  rare¬ 
ly  need  shortening.  Some  of  the  loose- 
fitting  waists  of  one-piece  dresses  have  a 
habit  of  pulling  down  at  the  hack  and 
thus  wrinkling  above  the  waist  line,  a 
result,  of  the  open  neck  and  long  shoulder, 
which  prevent  snug  fitting.  This  eau  be 
obviated  by  a  sort  of  skeleton  or  sus¬ 
pender  lining  in  the  front,  which,  at¬ 
tached  to  shoulder  seams  and  belt,  pre¬ 
vents  the  waist  from  sliding  back.  Also, 
be  sure  there  is  an  inside  belt  of  webbing 
that  hooks  snugly ;  while  such  dresses 
look  very  loose  outside,  they  must  be 
fitted  srnjgly  underneath.  There  is  an 
excellent  boned  belting  with  a  curve  that 
fits  much  better  than  the  straight  band  ; 
the  bones  are  woven  in  at  intervals,  and 
the  curve  gives  a  good  fit,  without  wrink¬ 
ling.  This  belting  costs  13  cents  a  yard. 
Those  commercially  interested  in  the  silk 
trade  are  now  conducting  an  advertising 
campaign  urging  women  to  demand  silk- 
sewed  seams  in  the  readymade  silk  and 
woolen  clothing  they  buy.  Most  women 
who  do  home  dressmaking  use  sew'ing 
silk  for  such  garments,  often  because  it 
is  impossible  to  match  all  shades  in  cot¬ 
ton.  Sometimes,  with  a  mistaken  idea 
of  economy,  cotton  is  used  in  stitching 
black  goods,  and  disappointment  results 
as  the  cotton  turns  rusty  before  the  ma¬ 
terial  does,  and  “looks  cheap”  wherever 
visible.  Another  poor  economy  is  to 
skimp  in  hooks  or  snap  fasteners;  a  gar¬ 
ment  never  sets  well  if  they  are  too  far 
apnrt.  Always  finish  the  raw  edges  of 
woolen  seams,  and  the  edges  of  woolen 
hems,  with  bias  binding  tape;  if  the  col¬ 
or  cannot  be  matched  in  the  readymade 
binding  it  is  well  to  buy  soft-finished  per¬ 
cale  to  cut  into  bias  strips  of  the  right 
width,  pressing  the  raw  edges  into  a  fold 
with  a  hot  iron.  Silk  taffeta  binding  is 
used  for  more  expensive  garments,  or 
for  seams  in  an  unlined  eoat 
Trimmings  and  Accessories.  -Odd 
bits  of  fur  saved  from  old  fur  pieces  will 
be  very  useful  this  season  for  trimming 
dresses,  coats  and  hats.  Fur  buttons  are 
frequently  used  as  trimming,  and  can  be 
made  from  rather  small  pieces.  Narrow 
strips  may  be  used  for  a  Toll  edging  on 
collars  and  cuffs.  A  small  child’s  coat  of 
white  or  flesh  pink  can  be  finished  at¬ 
tractively  with  large  buttons  of  brown 
fur ;  then  if  there  is  enough  to  put  a  roll 
of  fur  around  the  collar  alone,  and  the 
edge  of  the  bonnet,  a  pretty  effect  is  se¬ 
cured.  Odd  bits  of  fur  will  be  found  use¬ 
ful  in  millinery,  in  making  cocardes  or 
plaques,  and  other  fancy  trimmings. 
Muffs  take  a  variety  of  shapes — canteen, 
barrel,  ball  and  flat,  which  gives  one 
latitude  in  making  over  old  furs.  In 
separate  blouses,  skirts  and  dresses  there 
is  an  extensive  use  of  beading  and  em¬ 
broidery,  and  much  of  it  is  not  at  all 
difficult,  and  very  effective.  Bold  pat¬ 
terns  in  chain  stitch,  silk  or  wool,  in 
brilliant  colors,  trim  many  dresses;  of 
course  this  is  machine  work.  Kensington 
embroidery  in  colored  crewels  is  very  ef¬ 
fective,  also  colored  beading.  One  dress 
of  fiuc  dark  blue  serge  had  a  loose  bodice 
fastening  under  the  arm ;  across  the  front 
were  three  two-ineb  bands  of  colored 
crewel  embroidery,  in  poiuts,  and  there 
was  a  four-inch  band  of  such  embroidery 
on  the  upper  part  of  each  sleeve,  like  a 
soldier’s  chevron.  Some  dresses  show 
isolated  embroidery  motifs:  in  others  the 
belt  only  is  embroidered,  wnile  still  others 
have  elaborately  embroidered  peplums  or 
tunic  draperies.  In  all  these  the  em¬ 
broidery  is  worked  directly  on  the  fabric 
of  the  dress;  it  is  not  made  separately 
and  applied  like  a  passementerie.  Little 
baskets  or  other  conventional  designs  are 
often  used  to  decorate  blouses.  Beading 
appears  in  outline  figures  of  the  stencil 
type,  solid  patterns,  and  also  little  tas¬ 
sels  and  ornaments,  often  quite  distinct 
in  color  and  pattern  from  the  rest  of 
the  trimming. 
Separate  Skirts. — The  shops  say 
there  is  an  unusual  demand  for  separate 
skirts,  which  are  always  needed  when  a 
long  coat  is  worn.  For  a  “dress”  skirt 
black  broadcloth  leads,  and  a  woman  of 
conservative  taste  will  find  it,  with  a  blouse 
of  black  chiffon  made  over  white  silk,  or 
some  pretty  style  in  Georgette  crepe,  very 
attractive.  The  skirt  may  be  draped  or 
plain,  but  while  reasonably  full  should 
give  a  slim  outline.  Many  of  the  nice 
broadcloth  skirts  are  trimmed  with  fur, 
sometimes  as  banding,  sometimes  as  edg¬ 
ing  to  panels,  and  sometimes  only  on 
pockets.  A  plain  black  broadcloth  skirt 
may  be  made  more  ornate  by  using  full 
triangular  pockets  embroidered  in  steel 
beads  and  edged  at  the  top  with  fur.  The 
waist  worn  with  it,  if  plain  black,  might 
be  trimmed  to  match,  with  fur  and  steel 
beads. 
Winter  Coats. — A  new  fabric  is  knit¬ 
ted  wool  velours,  which  is  very  warm, 
but  light;  it  is  made  into  handsome  coats 
with  large  fur  collar  and  cuffs.  These 
coats  are  usually  very  full  and  roomy, 
some  with  belts  all  around,  some  merely 
belted  at  the  back,  and  others  with  no 
belt  at  all.  Poilu  military  coats  are 
made  of  a  thick  material  something  like 
Bolivia  cloth.  The  'Bobby”  coat  is  mod- 
Xbhe  RURAL 
eled  after  the  overcoat  worn  by  London 
policemen,  made  of  Bolivia  cloth.  Ker¬ 
sey  doth  with  velvet  trimmings  gives 
satisfaction,  and  we  have  seen  good- 
looking  long  Coats  of  this  material  for 
$10.50.  Suede  cloth  is  shown  in  attrac¬ 
tive  models  for  $25.  The  handsome  new 
models  in  Bolivia  cloth  go  up  to  the 
neighborhood  of  $50.  and  velours  <-oaN 
higher  than  this,  beginning  at  $25. 
Tweed  coats  start  at  $17.50.  These  are 
women's  models  shown  by  a  high-class 
shop  that  guarantees  its  merchandise. 
Many  women  still  like  plush  coats,  which 
are  very  comfortable  in  a  severe  climate; 
we  noticed  one  excellent  model  in  black 
seal  plush,  trimmed  ou  collar  and  cuffs 
with  natural  opossum,  for  $33.50.  Some 
very  handsome  rug-collar  coats  for  girls 
of  16  to  20  are  wool  velours,  brown,  bur¬ 
gundy  and  green,  with  a  huge  collar  and 
cuffs  of  natural  raccoon. 
“  Mrs.  Pastoral  Parson  ” 
(Continued  from  page  1452) 
they  can  earn  money  at  home  by  selling 
their  canned  stuff.  I  think  that  will  be 
a  great  thing.  It  will  tend  to  keep  the 
young  people,  in  the  eountry  and  make 
them  more  contented.  They  have  clubs 
for  the  boys  as  well.  I  think  the  boys 
have  their  owu  gardens.  You  see  some¬ 
thing  must  be  done  to  make  the  young 
people  contented  to  stay  in  the  country, 
and  the  city  people  must  help  to  make 
things  pleasant  for  them. 
Tea  and  Coffee. — It  is  very  important 
that  we  all  should  know  the  harm  tea  and 
coffee  does  to  our  children.  It  acts  chiefly 
upon  the  nerves.  We  hud  a  boy  of  12 
visiting  us  a  few  days  and  he  thought  b<1 
could  not  live  without  his  tea  or  coffee 
three  times  a  day.  lie  did,  however, 
while  with  US-  By  the  time  that  fellow 
is  grown  he  will  have  all  sorts  of  trouble 
with  his  nerves  and  stomach,  and  think 
he  has  inhrited  them.  The  agent  told  of 
a  boy  of  10  whose  mother  came  to  her  to 
find  out  the  trouble  with  the  child,  lie 
was  listless,  restless  and  simply  could  not 
learn  in  school.  She  asked  the  mother 
what  she  gave  him  for  breakfast.  "He 
has  plenty  to  eat,”  said  the  mother.  “But 
what  does  he  eat?”  asked  the  agent. 
Doughnuts,  fried  potatoes  and  coffee. 
Now  you  see,  what  he  ate  used  up  all  his 
energy  and  made  him  terribly  nervous. 
All  the  energy  that  should  have  been  put 
in  study,  was  instead  trying  to  digest  that 
breakfast,  therefore  the  teacher  and 
everyone  else  thought  him  a  stupid  boy. 
A  Good  Breakfast. — Give  the  chil¬ 
dren  plenty  of  good  cereals  and  milk.  If 
they  want  potatoes  either  bake  them  or 
cream  the  cold  cues  that  have  been  left 
over  from  the  day  before.  Now  I  know 
from  my  own  experience  the  effect  of 
fried  potatoes.  Ouee  in  a  great  while,  we 
step  over  the  bounds  and  fry  them.  It 
results  in  every  member  of  the  family 
being  “off  color”  all  day,  and  the  children 
come  home  from  school  with  lessons  half 
learned.  Soft-boil  the  eggs,  too. 
Warm  Drinks. — If  it.  is  going  to  be 
hard  to  break  off  from  tea  and  coffee  with 
the  children  give  them  cocoa  or  hot-water 
tea.  The  hot-water  tea  is  simply  hot 
water  with  a  little  cream  and  sugar  in  it. 
My  children  are  very  fond  of  this,  and 
there  is  nothing  injurious  about  it.  You 
know  children  like  to  imitate  the  grown¬ 
ups.  That  really  is  the  secret  of  their 
NEW-YORKER 
wanting  to  drink  tea  and  coffee  They 
like  to  have  the  hot  drink.  It  looks  big 
and  as  I  said  cocoa  or  hot-water  tea 
would  please  them  just  as  much  and  cer¬ 
tainly  keep  them  in  better  condition.  Be 
careful  of  cocoa,  too,  for  too  much  of  that 
will  make  them  bilious. 
Cranks. — We  have  bcou  called  cranks 
so  many  times  because  wo  talk  so  much 
on  the  subject  of  feeding  children.  I 
wish  there  were  more  cranks  of  the  same 
kind.  I  am  quite  sure  if  there  wore  fam¬ 
ilies  would  be  more  united  and  happy.  I 
think  if  you  will  put  into  practice  all  I 
have  told  .von  about  the  right  way  to  feed 
the  little  ones,  Thanksgiving  Day  will 
mean  more  to  you  this  year  than  ever 
before. 
Farmer’s  Wife  on  “Milk  Strike” 
(Continued  from  page  1450) 
farmers  did  eat  cream!  During  the  past 
few  years  with  the  ever  present  fear  of 
the  “test”  before  us  we  have  looked  upon 
cream  as  a  forbidden  luxury.  But  for  a 
few  days  at  least.  w<-  used  it  with  a  clear 
conscience  on  everything  that  custom  has 
decreed  cream  may  he  eaten  upon,  and 
some  things  that  it  has  not.  We  had 
“really”  cream,  not  top  milk,  on  oatmeal 
and  on  lmt  apple  pie,  in  rice  pudding  and 
creamed  potatoes,  and  whipped  cream  on 
everything  else.  We  searched  out  long 
disused  recipes  for  cream  pie  and  sour 
cream  sponge  cake.  And  the  cottage 
cheese!  Ami  the  buttermilk.  Assured¬ 
ly  these  fat  days  will  not  soon  be  for¬ 
gotten  on  the  farm. 
Farm  Stock  Interested. — One  fann¬ 
er’s  wife  told  graphically  how  her  hens 
gazed  at  her  in  consternation  and  ex¬ 
claimed  “What  has  happened”  when  she 
carried  them  a  pail  of  sour  milk.  The 
pigs  enjoyed  the  unusual  luxury  of  sour 
milk.  A  rural  mail  carrier  declares  that 
on  many  farms  the  pigs  were  waiting  at 
the  mail  boxes  for  a  chance  to  read  the 
daily  paper  and  get  news  of  the  all-im¬ 
portant,  to  them,  milk  situation.  The 
milk  fight  may  be  practically  won, 
as  some  think  or  it  may  be.  only  begun  as 
others  reason,  but  whatever  happens  we 
have  had  some  good  tilings  to  eat  and 
some  wholesome  fun  on  the  farm. 
MRS,  E.  c.  Y. 
Advertising  and  Its  Results 
“The  State,”  a  paper  published  at 
Columbia,  S.  O.,  tells  of  a  farmer  (J.  II. 
Price)  who  advertised  rye  for  seed.  Mr. 
Price  had  50  bushels  of  seed  and  did  not 
know  whether  advertising  would  pay  or 
not.  There  is  a  great  demand  for  rye 
to  be  used  as  a  cover  or  green  manuring 
crop  and  first  he  knew,  Mr.  Price,  “had 
more  money  than  ever  before  in  his  life.’* 
He  said : 
I  have  never  had  so  many  letters  and 
so  much  money  in  all  my  life.  I  have 
over  $5,000  worth  of  cheeks,  money  or¬ 
ders  and  cash  right  here  now,  all  coming 
from  that  little  ad  in  The  State.  I  want 
you  to  write  a  piece  and  tell  everybody 
that  I  have  sold  out  a  hundred  times  and 
that  I  am  going  to  burn  up  this  batch  of 
cheeks ;  I  don't  know  what  else  to  do 
with  them. 
This  idea  of  burning  up  checks  and 
money  orders  to  get  rid  of  them  is  a  new 
one — more  honest  at  least  than  the  way 
some  advertisers  do.  When  this  was  ex¬ 
plained  to  Mr.  Price  and  he  was  told  that 
they  must  all  be  returned  he  become  dis¬ 
couraged. 
“Well,  sir,  I  can’t  do  that.  Why  it 
would  take  me  a  week  to  address  the  en¬ 
velopes  and  put  those  checks  and  things 
back  in  them,  to  say  nothing  about  the 
cost  of  stamps. 
pf  course  this  is  an  exceptional  cas« 
and  not  many  of  us  are  likely  to  have 
$5,000  thrust  upon  us  as  the  result  of 
one  advertisement.  At  the  same  time 
there  are  good  opportunities  for  disposing 
of  goods  if  we  can  supply  what  people 
want.  Some  people  try  one  small  adver¬ 
tisement  and  because  it  fails  to  bring 
large  returns  they  stop  and  abandon  their 
plan.  It  is  usually  necessary  to  stay  by 
the  business  patiently  until  people  be¬ 
come  acquainted  with  you  and  your 
goods. 
Another  thing — do  not  burn  checks  or 
ignore  letters  as  Mr.  Price  was  tempted 
to  do.  See  that  each  customer  has  a 
prompt  and  good-natured  reply.  This 
sometimes  becomes  a  nuisance.  In  one 
case  a  woman  who  recently  advertised  in 
The  TL  N.-Y,  received  over  250  replies. 
She  hud  only  one  thing  to  sell  or  buy, 
and  it  was  impossible  to  write  219  let¬ 
ters  or  cards  explaining  why  she  could 
not  do  business.  In  such  eases  it  would 
be  well  to  have  post  cards  printed  and 
mailed  to  each  inquirer. 
i 
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Make  Your  Stream*  Do  Your  Pumping 
Use  water  now  wasted.  If  you  nave  .1 
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A 
MERRY 
XMAS 
DINNER? 
We  are  hut  you 
agents — you  are 
the  host. 
3''0,000  poor  peo¬ 
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Xmas  in  the 
U.  S.  hy  The 
Salvation 
Army. 
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way  to  get  close 
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day  in  the  year. 
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