FRUIT GROWERS’ SOCIETY OF WESTERN NEW YORK. 
TENTH ANNUAL MEETING. 
[Continued from page 71, last Dumber.] 
SOIL FOR PF.ARR. 
What soil is best suited to the Pear? 
Mr. Smith—G ood, strong loam with a strong 
admixture of clay, is best. If you have not got 
that put it on the best soil you have got. 
G. JSllwangbR—T here is nothing further 
need be said on that subject. 
Sharpe—P uiU’S grow well with me. My 
subsoil is rock; and the surface soil is stone mix¬ 
ed with a little rook and less dirt, 1 don’t want 
to see orchards put out on good land — not on 
land that is too good to appropriate for the pur¬ 
pose. Good milk cannot be got unless you put 
it into the mouth of the cow; and you must feed 
the tree as you would feed the cow to get good 
milk. 
Bkadlk—D oes the last speaker pulverize his 
soil deep? (Laughter, j ' 
, J. J. Thomas—I think the best rule is to ex¬ 
periment and see where they grow best. I have 
planted on sand, loam, and clay in one location, 
and succeeded; and on soil with the same gene¬ 
ral characteristics, in another locality, and 
failed. 
G. Ellwanger — Pears have always suc¬ 
ceeded with us, planted on a good, strong, heavy 
loam, with a good, strong clay subsoil. 
PRUNING PEARS. 
What is the best mode of trimming the Standard and 
the Dwarf Pear? 
HookeRt- 1 have, changed ray mind so often 
on this subject that 1 really do uot know which 
is best, it depends upon the habit of the. tree. 
I could not recommend any particular method. 
I have seen all sorts of trees trimmed in all 
sorts of ways. 
MOODY—There is one plan of trimming wlHh 
I think should be urged. The tree should be 
thiuued out so as to let in the suu on the fruit. 
AVe must not shorten-iu, simply; the tree should 
he thinned. 
SHARPE— I have cut my orchard back pretty 
thoroughly. 1 plant thick and have never thin¬ 
ned out at all, and have satisfactory results. 1 
doubt the propriety of thinning out a great deal. 
My trees are very low. I would thin the fruit, 
but I question if there is more foliage than is 
needed to protect and ripen the fruit. 
Moody—I do not know of an orchard which 
needs thinning more than that of the gentleman 
who has just taken his seat. And I wish to call 
attention to the fact, In this connection, that the 
rock on which his orchard is planted is porous. 
Sharpe— The gentleman is right as regards 
the Character of the rock. It is porous, and a 
very good substitute for soil. But 1 do not agree 
with him about the thitining. My Crop of 80 
barrels averaged over $11 per barrel. A por¬ 
tion of my crop was injured. If it had not 
been, it would have averaged me $13 per barrel. 
Had all of my bearing trees stood in an orchard 
together, at the distance apart at which I have 
plauted, ray crop would have netted me $400 
per acre, 
Moody—T he fruit on Mr. Sde trees all grow 
on the lower limbs, He has a neighbor who 
thinned his orchard, whose trees bore more 
fruit, I think. 
Siiarpr— Doubtful. At any rate, I got from 
my orchard all I cared about getting from it. 
PROFIT OF DWARF PEAR CULTURE. 
Has the success attending the culture of Dwarf Pears 
iu Western New York boeu such ns to promise 
profit if planted largely in orchards? 
Sharpe—A neighbor of mine planted 104 
dwarf pears. The third year after planting he 
sold IfiO worth of fruit. Another neighbor put 
out 400 bearing trees. The second year his crop 
brought him $09.50; tire third year he got but 
little from it; thu 4th year, #175; this last year 
he received $600 for his crop. Another neigh¬ 
bor planted an due and ouo-eighth with dwarf 
pears. 8ome of these trees did not bear the past 
year, yet be sold his crop of fifty barrels at $10 
per bat rel iu the orchard—the orchardist to pick 
the Iruit, ami the purchaser furnish the barrels. 
. 1 think nurserymen buve injured community 
by selling trees so low that they are never cared 
for. A man l know of bought trees for lit¬ 
tle or nothing, and paid for them with what ho 
did not think of any value, and lhey are good 
for nothing now—worse than nothing. If I can 
make a good hole in a gentleman’s purse when 
lie comes to purchase trees, 1 am sure he will 
thank me for It. 1 tell mo when they come to 
me and want to buy trees low, that they had 
better not buy at all. 
J. J. I hum as— Years ago, I was led to adopt 
the erroneous opinion that tiees should only bo 
planted iu gardens. Now 1 am fully convinced 
they ought only to be planted in orchards, lu 
guldens they are often neglected—the vegetables 
are cultivated, but the trees are not. Hand hoe¬ 
ing and spade culture does not answer. The 
quince roots extend, and the soil needs stirring. 
A dwari pear orchard ought to be as large as a 
corn field, and cultivated as often oroftener 
especially when they will yield the figures given 
here. Horse cultivation will produce better 
trees. 1 would plaut them 12 feet apart iu the 
field would grow them iu large fields and give 
them horse culture, 
Sharpe—I cultivated beans for two or three 
1 years in my orchard; but would uot recommend 
it as a practice. 
| Fxshkr—T heso pear orchards that we have 
board from are, 1 suppose, the best pear orchards 
, 1111 ho ooiintry. It 1s not safe to base our recom¬ 
mendations upon their success. With me, with 
good culture, dwarf pears would not pay $10 per 
acre. I do not believe that we are warranted 
in believing that 10 acres can bo cultivated and 
net the orchardist. $200 per acre. I selected, un¬ 
der P. Barry’s advice, 10 varieties for a family 
and market orchard. Nearly all of them were 
dwarfs. They are line healthy trees. I have n 
gravelly loam soil with a clay subsoil. These 
trees have been transplanted 5 years; and three- 
fourths of them have not borne a pear.' 
G. ElLWANGER—A different selection of va¬ 
rieties is made when one plants for market, than 
is made for an orchard for family use. 
Siiarpk —If the gentleman will plant Duehesse 
d’AngouU-me and Louise Bonne de Jersey, 430 
trees to the acre, they will produce for him a 
crop that will bring iho figures I have named. 
Judge La Hue—H as any gentleman grown 
such crops five or ten years successively; or in 
other words, have dwarf pear orchards averaged 
such results that length of lime? 
Fisiieu —I can report only on half an acre. 
They have borne more or less for years. Trees 
all good and healthy. I have 26 or 30 varieties 
— the Duchesne in considerable numbers, a few 
Sockets, and all dwarfs. But 1 have bad no such 
result in figures as have been given here. 
Olmsted —In 1868 I planted 800 standard 
trees; in 1859, GOO dwarfs. From the standards, 
the past year, I gathered 47 barrel.-.; from the 
dwarfs, 7 barrels. 1 sold the whole at $10 per 
barrel. The standard trees cost me $35 per 
100; the dwarfs, $30 per 100. The crops of 
beans taken from the ground have paid for cul¬ 
tivation. The crop of fruit the past year has 
paid the cost of trees and planting. 
SMITH—I planted, about four years-ago, 4,000 
pear trees; three-fourths of them avere dwarfs. 
The latter were planted 10 feet apart: the for¬ 
mer 20 feet apart- Crops grown on the ground 
between the trees paid for the culture. Duriug 
the four years these trees have not produced 
five bushels. They did bear some fruit in spite 
of all I could do. They should never be allowed 
to bear fruit when only three or four years old. 
Fisher—I do not wish to be understood as 
being dissatisfied Avith my pear plautlng, nor 
with what the trees have done for me; but I 
am not disposed to let the figures given here go 
out as being vvliat every man may expect who 
plants dwarf pears. 
J. J. Thomas—T here are such orchards as 10 
year old dwarf pear orchards. I may name Mr. 
Yeoman’s orchard of one-third of an acre, that 
has borne at different times $400 and $500 worth 
of pears—all from one-third of an acre. One 
year he sold his crop at $85 per barrel. 
Fish— The gentleman named by J. J. Thomas 
sold $500 worth of pears from one-third of an 
acre one year. 
ShaRFK —He sold in two years over $1,000 
worth of pears from the third of an acre. They 
were Duehesse d’Angouleme. The two varie¬ 
ties I named will give the orchardist in five or 
six years from planting $400 to $600 per acre. I 
would plant 8 by 12 feet apart. 
At this point a gentleman read a letter he had 
recently received from Mr. Yeomans, above 
named, in which he stated that his crop t^e 
post year was 70 barrels, which sold at from $8 
to $20 per barrel. 
Ainsworth — I sold the crop from one acre 
of Virgalieus and Seekels for over $400; they 
averaged $15 per barrel. 
Frost— 1 think it will be found to be the 
experience of most persons who have cultivated 
pears several—say eight or ten—years, that they 
have proved a total failure. 
Ellwanger—I have cultivated pears twenty 
years, and cannot agree with Mr. Frost. There 
is profit in pear culture. 
A HOT-BED FOR FLOWERS. 
Tiik Rural’s readers are scattered over a 
large arqa of territory, embracing many degrees 
of latitude. Deuce, information, in order to be 
timely to the greatest number of readers, must 
anticipate the season considerably in some locali¬ 
ties. Rand, in his admirable work entitled, 
“ Flowers for the Parlor and Garden,” gives 
the mode of preparing a hot-bed lor flowers, 
furnished him by one of his friends, ” who,” 
Rand says, ** with his hot-beds accomplishes 
wonders; and whose flower garden pre.seuts a 
gayer appearance than many who have unlim¬ 
ited green-house facilities at command.” We 
copy the mode given, condensing it somewhat. 
1. The Frame .—A good size is 5 by 10 feet 
square, 10 inches high in front, 18 in the rear; 
wit h thu ends shaped, of course, to match. Let 
these (the ends) be cloated so as to prevent 
warping, and fasten together at the corners with 
hasps. Let in flush with the edge, narrow 
strips, at proper distances, for sashes to slide ou, 
with a narrower one in the middle for a guide. 
I heso will receive four Rashes of proper pro¬ 
portions for glass eight inches wide, which 
should be Inserted in grooves, rather than by 
tbc old method of puttying; for putty soon 
crumbles with exposure. Anybody with me¬ 
chanical gumption can make the frame; and the 
sash can be purchased at. a window factory, or 
made by a joiner. Paint the whole well with 
coarse paint- Rand says, if the portions of the 
frame touching the ground can bo charred it 
will prevent decay. 
2. The manure is thrown in a heap so as to 
present as little surface to the atmosphere as 
possible, and allowed to ferment. Let it heat. 
If it is coarse, no matter. Ordinary stable 
manure answers. 
3. Making the Bed.—Measure a space 12 by 7 
feet, do give a projection of a foot all around the 
outside the frame,) ou a spot well sheltered 
from the cold winds and open to the sun. Set 
boards on edge secured by stakes, and fill in 
first with a layer of straw, leaves, or other ma¬ 
terial, then a layer of manure, heating it down 
with the fork, but not treading it hard. Con¬ 
tinue this until you have used sufficient litter to 
make the bed. with the manure about two feet 
high. Put on the frame, cover the outside bank 
with boards laid flat, fill in with about four 
inches of tan, put on the sashes, and while the 
heat is getting up. get seeds ready, and prepare 
materials for potting. 
4. Potting Materi/tl. — Bits of charcoal for 
drainage, Ihedustof which may he sifted from 
it, and mixed with the soil for potting. Peat 
which has been exposed during the winter,sod, 
earth or loam and the bottom of an old hot-bed, 
if you have one. is good material. Equal parts 
of each, with some of the coal dust mixed in is 
good potting material for present purposes. 
0. The. heat trill be up in about a week after 
the bed is made us described above. You may 
learn something of the condition of the bed by 
trying it with a sharp stick thrust into it. 
6. Soto first, in the pots, the seeds of such 
plants as will bear turning out in the open bor¬ 
der first — or plants whose growth is slow'. 
Plunge the pots to the rim in the tan, and the 
heat from below will soon cause the seeds to 
germinate and grow. It is better, on some ac¬ 
counts, to sow the seeds in pots; because they 
are easier transplanted, and with less riak to the 
plant. 
7. Seed may be sown directly in the hot-bed. 
But in order to do this no tan should be put in 
the bed when making it; but instead, fine, rich 
loam should be sifted ou the manure to the depth 
ol eight inches. After a few days have elapsed 
to allow the rank heat and steam to pass off, 
sow the seed in this loam, in drills. 
8. The bed requires attention to prevent burn¬ 
ing the plants, to water as may be necessary, to 
give air to prevent damping off, and to close it 
before nightfall, covering it with mats during 
the cold nights. Common sense added to this 
care, with each day’s experience, will soon 
enable the reader to manage a hot-bed skillfully. 
9. Air should be given freely when the weather 
is warm and sunny; on cold, cloudy days the 
sashes should be kept closed, unless it is neces¬ 
sary to get rid of damp, which may he eflected 
by opening the frame about au iueb at the top. 
If the weather is very cold the mats should not 
be removed from the sashes. Yontilate by 
drawing the sash down from the top. If more 
air is required prop up the sides about an inch, 
which will quickly carry off the surplus heat. 
After days become warm ami sunny, and the 
sun gets high, the sashes may be removed, re¬ 
placing them at night. Finally, they may be 
removed altogether and thus render the plants 
hardy and stocky. 
10. Protection.- *\V'c have spoken of mats. 
Mats will only he needed where the bed is 
started quite early, or unseasonable weather 
occurs. A thick straw mat is generally used, 
and is as good aud convenient as anything. If 
properly taken care of it will last for years. 
We have not followed the text of the book 
we have named above, seeking to adapt this 
article to the wants of the greatest number of 
our readers. The directions given here for 
making a bot-bed for flowers, will apply where 
a bed is designed for starting early vegetables, 
except that the material used may be selected 
with less care. But it will pay to do anything 
well. 
TREES ON THE PRAIRIES. 
At the late Annual Meeting of the Illinois 
State Horticultural Society, a committee was ap¬ 
pointed to prepare and procure the publication 
of a circular to the farmers of the State setting 
forth the advantages of planting forest trees on 
the prairies. We are indt'bttxi to Jonathan 
PkRIaM, the Chairman of that Committee, for 
copies of this circular. The committee give the 
chief objects to be gained by the extensive 
planting of forest trees, thus concisely: 
1st. The Promotion of Health .—It being a well 
known fact in vegetable physiology that poison¬ 
ous gases are absorbed by the leaves of trees, 
and thus converted from health destroying iuto 
health promoting elements. 
2d. Shelter from Violent Wipds, and an abso¬ 
lute checking of their force to so great a degree 
as to preserve growing crops of cereals from 
destruction, and secure a large increase of fruit; 
also secure a more equal distribution of rain aud 
snow over the surface of the ground, 
3d. Securing a Supply of Timber for fencing, 
building, fuel, and all mechanical purposes. 
4th, Adorning our Prairies, rendering our 
homes attractive; hi short, changing these nude 
and monotonous prairies into charming and 
varied landscapes. 
EVERGREENS FOR THE I’R A IRIKS. 
We copy what the committee say on this sub¬ 
ject, with great pleasure. The planting of belts 
and groves of deciduous trees needs less encour¬ 
agement. As the country settles up. and home¬ 
steads are made, orchards will be planted, and 
sheltering groves of rapid growing trees will 
spring up. The increase of the timber, in the 
settled portions of the Prairie Slates, during the 
past ten years, is almost marvelous; but it is 
almost wholly of deciduous trees. In no country 
do evergreens thrive better. In no climate are 
they needed more. No where will so radical a 
change result from their planting. Aud if one 
hall' the money invested in willow sticks the 
past two years, had beeu invested in the plant¬ 
ing of evergreens, the result would have been 
ten fold more gratifying to purchasers, and an 
hundred fold more' so in the modification of cli¬ 
mate, and the enhanced beauty of prairie land¬ 
scapes. It is with this conviction, therefore, 
that we shall continue, as we have in the past, 
to hurrah for the evergreens, while other, and 
perhaps wiser, men throw up their hats for the 
willows. Now for the information furnished 
by this circular: 
List of Varieties. — The following varieties 
will succeed in almost all locations, and with the 
cultivation which we shall describe, will make 
an average growth of about twenty inches per 
year, viz.Norway Spruce, Red Cedar, Ameri¬ 
can Arbor Vitse, White, Scotch and Austrian 
Pines. There are several other varieties which 
are hardy and may be planted with profit, viz.: 
Balsam Fir, our Native Spruces, Yellow and 
Gray Pines, and a few others. 
How to get them ,.—All the varieties of Ever¬ 
greens are difficult of propagation from seeds, 
and can be purchased from those who make this 
their special business much more cheaply than 
the farmer can propagate them. 
How to prepare the ground. — The ground 
should be prepared by trench-plowing or sub¬ 
soiling in the autumn, or deep plowing and thor¬ 
ough harrowing in the spring. 
B7ien to plant, and how. — Early spring is 
the best time for planting all varieties of Ever¬ 
greens, though they may be removed with little 
lose at any time during the spring and Bummer 
months. If in the latter, a damp, cloudy day 
Simula be selected for the work. In removing 
Evergreens, pains should be taken to preserve 
as many of the roots as possible, without muti¬ 
lating them, or splitting them at the collar. The 
root* should be dipped in mud (previously pre¬ 
pared) us soon as taken from the ground, and 
packed with damp straw or moss about them, 
being careful to prevent their exposure to the 
sun or dry air, for if the small roots are once 
allowed to get dry, the trees cannot be relied 
upon to survive. 
In planting, pains should be taken to have a 
mellow bed for the roots, which should be 
spread out with the extremities lower than the 
collar, tilling all the interstices with tine earth. 
Press the dirt moderately upon the roots, and 
cultivate thoroughly with the plow for the first 
four years; alter which a thorough mulching of 
straw once in two years will be sufficient. 
Treated in this manner, not one tree in forty 
will die. * 
The Noruxty Spruce is doubtless one of the 
best, if not the very best, of trees for screens. 
It may be transplanted without a loss of one per 
cent., is perfectly hardy, grows rapidly, forming 
a dense pyramid or cone of evergreen foliage 
one hundred feet high, with a base, when stand¬ 
ing alone, of at least thirty feet in diameter. 
Trees of this variety, two and one half feet high, 
can be purchased at $20 per hundred. 
Trues of the Norway Spruce should be planted 
in rows, ten to fifteen feet apart, with the trees 
the same distance in the row s, placing the trees 
iu the second row opposite the spaces in the 
first. At these distances the branches will 
eventually interlock to a considerable height, 
forming an almost impenetrable aud beautiful 
wall of foliage, which will effectually check the 
fury of our most violent storms. 
The Balsam grows rapidly, and has the dark¬ 
est, richest foliage of any of the varieties named, 
retaining its color through winter, though since 
it is liable to loe it losver branches after the 
trees attain a height of about forty feet, it is not 
as desirable to plant alone as the first named 
sorts; yet it may be mixed iu with the Spruces 
and Pines with pleasing effect. 
The Pines should not be planted closer than 
sixteen feet, as they grow into broad majestic 
trees. A better plan would be to plant the 
rows twenty feet apart in the rows; and when 
grown so as to interfere, cut out each alternate 
tree, leaving the trees standing in the positions 
named. 
Red Cedar, die*—Trees of the Red Cedar and 
Arbor Vital can be procured at about ten dollars 
per hundred, and maybe planted more closely 
if desired, though it closer than ten feet they 
w ill uot attain their full size and strength as 
forest trees. 
We propose to make further extracts from this 
circular as we find space. 
gtn]tum$ aud guiswevs. 
S. N. Trader. Chicago The nursery stocks in this 
vicinity, so far as we have been able to ascertain are 
nninjured. The cold has not been extreme here at any¬ 
time this winter—not sufficiently so to destroy all ibe 
peach buds, much less injure the wood of fruit trees. 
Strawberry Baskets.— Can you, or some of your 
SUliselibers, tell where l can obtain some strawberry 
baskets, or where Uiey are maimiaetured, and oblige— 
A Rural Reader, Ann Arbor Mich. 
Let those who manufacture, advertise. 
Chicory Seed —Can you inform me where I can 
procure chicory seed? I am anxious to cultivate some 
Uie coming season.—A Subscriber. 
Probably of any of the seedsmen advertising iu our 
columns. 
Grate Vines Wanted.— Can you inform me where 
I can procure Catawba and Delaware Grape viuessuf 
Orient to plant an acre?—J. 11. Stafford. 
If our advertising columns do not give that informa¬ 
tion, we cannot furnish it. They do, or will give it, if 
you read them carefully. 
To Prevent Roses Blasting —Please tell me if 
there-D anything whUm will prevent ruses from hlast- 
lflif v We nave a variety called by some a Province, by 
others iay Damask or Cabbage rose, but. by ua -' The 
t'Id fashioned " It is a free grower, very hardy, aud 
the dower of the most delleaie blush and exquisite 
fragrance when it opens; but n e hush will be covered 
will) ends, wit It Mienuler learn- closed lightly, blast, d, 
-o ih it not one in fifty expands. What is the trouble, 
and is there a remedy ?—A. E Iv. It. 
if the bush is a healthful one, and there are no In¬ 
sects sapping its life, we think that if yon thin out the 
buds, say one halt', as soon as they begin to form, you 
will h ive a satisfactory crop of blossoms. Such results 
have followed such treatment. 
Eds. Rural:— Seeing an inquiry for a recipe 
for coloring black, I send you mine. Take four 
ounces extract of logwood, put in an iron kettle, 
over which pour ten quarts of soft water; let it 
boil. Stir often, take off the scum, wash the 
goods in soap suds, put them in the dye, let 
them boil about half an hour, take out, air well. 
Add one teaspoonful copperas, eue-third do. 
vitriol, put iu the goods, scald ahout 15 minutes, 
take out, dry, then dip in sweet milk to set the 
color, wash iu good soap suds, iron while damp, 
and you have a» handsome black as you could 
desire.— From a Subscriber’s Wife. 
Another.—O ne pound of logwood; three 
pounds of yarn; one-fourth of a pound of cop¬ 
peras put in three gallons of water; when it 
boils skim off all the scum, put in the yarn, boil 
one hour, let it cool sufficient to ring, cover the 
yarn to prevent it from drying, then boil the 
logwood in the same water; dip and air three 
times; dry before washing.—E mily Sheer. 
Eds. Rural: — Having noticed in the Feb. 
6th No. of the Rural an inquiry for coloring 
black that will not fade, mother proposes to 
send you hers, which she has used for a number 
of years, and knows to be an excellent recipe:— 
Take one pound of logwood chips, and half an 
ounce of copperas. This will color two pounds 
of cloth or yarn, silk or woolen. Put your log¬ 
wood into a sufficient quantity of soft water to 
cover your cloth, and place it on the stove to 
soak; then put your copperas into a similar 
quantity of water; stir till dissolved; then put 
in your cloth and let it simmer for an hour; 
take out and hang out to dry. When dry, rinse 
through two or three waters, and put into the 
dye. Let it boil very slowly for an hour, then 
dry and rinse, and you have a black that will 
neither crock nor fade. It must be stirred fre¬ 
quently while in both the copperas water and 
the dye, to prevent its spotting.— A Rural 
Reader, Milan, Ohio, 1864. 
-*—*- 
Cookies. — Take one large teacup sugar, one 
cup sour cream, one-half cup butter, one egg, 
and one teaspoon saleratus. Season to taste. — 
Gacie Hall, Homeland, Feb., 1864 
Remarks.— We suppose there is no flour 
needed for cookies of this sort. If so, in 
what proportion? We are satisfied that a great 
many worthless, or incomplete recipes are given 
in this Department of the Rural, and some 
that are valuable. But the editors, not being 
practical cooks, can not distinguish between the 
good aud bad. We, therefore. Invite candid 
criticism of such as are published. We would 
like such as prove worthless pointed out. 
For Coloring Scarlet. — Take one ounce 
of cochineal, two of tincture of tin, one oz. of 
cream tartar, to one pound of rags. Dip the 
vara in warm water before coloring: take the 
cochineal, pulverize it, add cream tartar, soak 
them a short time, add the tin, then the cloth, and 
scald twenty minutes.— Emily Sheer. 
Plum Pudding.— I inclose a recipe for 
making a tip-top plum pudding for tho benefit 
of “a young housekeeper:” — Half pound of 
raisins; half do. currants; half do. suet, chopped 
fine; half do. flour; 2 eggs; 1 teaspoouful grated 
ginger; same of uutmeg; 1 glass port wine; 1 
oz. preserved citron.—F rances. 
Johnny Cake. — Take one quart of sour 
milk, to which add one egg well beaten; one 
tableepoonful of melted lard; one teaspoonful of 
saleratus; a little' salt; stir in corn meal with a 
little flour, making a batter not very still". Bake 
slow, aud I think it excellent.— Ada E., Seneca 
Co., A. I", 1864. 
DOMESTIC INQUIRIES. 
To Color Dark Drab —Please inform me through 
the coinuma of the Rural how to color a dark drab; 
also a brown, and oblige—M rs. H. B. C, Fayette, .V. Y. 
Rice Pudding—W ill some of the Rural readers 
please furnish a simple recipe for making rice pudding. 
Ada E, Seneca Ca., .V. Y. 
Indian Meal Pancakes.—W ill some Rural reader 
inform me through its columns how to make good 
Indian meal pancakes, aud oblige—F rances. 
To Render Cloth in u Incombustible. — Is there 
any preparation which will render a lady's clothing 
incombustible, without injuring irt If there is it will 
be hiimuue to publish it.—J ennie R. Colchester. 
In i860, at a meeting of the Pharmaceutical Society 
in Edinburgh, an experiment was made by Dr. Ste¬ 
venson Me Adam, with a eriuoline dress, one half of 
which had been Immersed in a solution of sulphate of 
ammonia. Fire w as applied to it, and that part of it 
which had nut been steeped in the solution was at once 
enveloped in dames . but the only effect upon the other 
part was to char it. It did not bum. 
To Paver Whitewashed Walls. —Can you inform 
me if there is any way to make paper slick to walls 
that have been whitewashed, and oblige — An Old 
Subscriber.— West Sloomjielit. 
Yes. Scrape off all the whitewash before putting on 
the paper, and there will be no trouble. We know of 
no other way. 
Can Eogs be Preserved through the Summer.— 
Can eggs be preserved from the spring mouths until 
winter without spoiling, aud how?—A Subscriber, 
Salem Station , I Vis. 
[SPECIAL NOTICE.] 
The Romance Taken Out.— “My dear, the sun is 
just stooping to kiss the western wave,” said a lady to 
her husband, “ and I am reminded that I must see that 
yon have some biscuits for tea as light as the snow 
tlako and as harmless.” “Stop,” said she, “I cannot 
do it for I am out. of Chemical Saleratus, the only arti 
ele lit to be used for the pursose.” The grocery was 
doubtless far away, or the lady would have found the 
article put up in bright red papers. 
