PLOWING A YOUNG ORCHARD, &c, 
A cokkhsi’on dknt at Naples, V. Y., ask? 
for the best met hod of plowing a young orchard. 
He says, “ I set 100 trees a year ago, and wish¬ 
ing to plant the field to corn, I would ask, musl 
I plow shallow, or deep enough to reach the 
roots of tbo trees?’’ 
In reply, we will tell our correspondent that, 
we fear, judging from the above inquiry, he 
planted his orchard at least a year before he was 
ready to do so. Perhaps not; perhaps the land 
was not in grass, but was deeply and thoroughly 
pulverized a year ago, when he planted his trees. 
If not, if he dug holes in his grass land and set 
his trees in them, there is little clanger he will 
injure the roots if he plows as deep as he 
chooses. But if his ground was in thorough 
tilth when he planted his orchard, he should be 
careful not to disturb the roots. The hulk of 
the ground may he plowed as deeply as he 
chooses; but about the tree he had better keep 
the plow out, and stir the soil there with a 
spading fork carefully. 
Do not think you lose anything if corn does 
not grow right up close about the tree. If the 
trees are not low-headed, it is well to protect 
their trunks from the direct rays of the sun by 
growing corn. But our caution is for such aH 
seem to begrudge the tree the ground it stands 
on, provided they can grow a hill of corn in the 
space given to it. Better sacrifice the corn than 
endanger the life and growth of the tree. II 
you cut off its roots, you check its growth pro¬ 
portionally. 
One thing more while we are on this subject. 
There is to he a great deal of tree planting this 
spring. IVe pray our readers to see that the 
ground is well prepared for the trees before they 
arrive from the nursery. And do not let them 
lie with the roots exposes! to the sun one hour, 
after they are received, before they are put in 
the ground. '\l r e have seen trees exposed to 
sun and wind for days before they were planted, 
and then heard the planters complain that the 
tree started so slowly, or that it failed to start at 
all, and charge the tree dealer with sending him 
dead trees. But the beam was in his own eye. 
Pull the beam out of your eyes, tree planters,— 
do your duty to the trees, and then you will be 
able to fix the responsibility of failure, in 
orchard culture, where it belongs. 
- — . — 
GRAPE TRELLIS,-TO HASTEN RIPENING. 
Eds. Rural New-Yorker:—I n perusing 
your paper, I have noticed various methods of 
building grape trellis and the manner of putting 
up the wires. I have a plan I use, which 1 
think is about right, since I have to use no horse 
to draw the wire tight nor vise to hold it. As it 
may be of some advantage to some of your 
many readers, 1 will give it. Take a piece of 
one-half inch round iron, four inches long, punch 
a hole, one inch from the end, large enough to 
receive the wire, then flatten outside of the hole 
to the thickness of one-eighth of air inch; bore a 
half-inch hole in the post at the end of the 
trellis, make the wire fast at the other, drive in 
the iron pin, insert the wire, anil, with a 
monkey wrench, wind up the wire as you 
would tighten the. string of a guitar. The pins 
can be furnished by any blacksmith for about 
five cents each. In cold weather they can be 
loosened easily, unwinding the wire by turning 
the plu buck. 
I have also read much about girdling vines to 
hasten ripening and increase size of fruit. 1 
have a way of my own which I think is much 
better; and 1 ask some of your readers who are 
grape growers to try it and report, if they 
think it worth while. 
When the fruit becomes about the size of 
double B shot, or about {he first of July, cut off 
the branch of the vine three joints beyond the 
outer cluster of grapes; then gently break the 
branch Inside of the first cluster, so that it will 
hold by the bark; make it Gist, and my own 
experience last season was I had Isabellas on 
branches that I broke that measured seven- 
eighths of an inch in diameter, and ripened 
two weeks abend of the others. 
I would like to know if you have ever seen 
either of the methods tried. C. L. 
Palmyra, N. Y., 1801. 
Rem arks. — We have not. It is just such 
experience and practice from practical meu and 
women, that we want for the practical depart* 
ments of the Rural. 
CLEAN UP THE YARD. 
Last year, Avhen spring opened, the writer, 
with the hired help and children to assist, went 
te work and had a thorough “slicking up” 
around the house and yard, He can’t tell you 
how pleased the good woman of the house 
looked. If you want to realize what a grateful 
and pleased look she wore, just go and do like¬ 
wise. Then, how much more pleasant, tidy 
and homo-like, things did look. Such good suc¬ 
cess at tern! »d our labors, and we felt so well 
paid for what we had done, we took a little 
more time, and made a few tidy mounds and 
beds, for flowers. Wife and daughter sowed 
the seeds, and attended mostly to their cultiva¬ 
tion. Now, what was the result? Yard pleas¬ 
ant and attractive. Looked like a litllu para¬ 
dise, with its blooming beds of l’ortulaeas. 
Marigolds, Petunias, Verbenas, Japan Pinks, 
Ten Weeks’ Stock, Balsams, Phloxes, etc. 
Wife was delighted, ehildren pleased, and we 
must confess, ourself was not a little proud of 
It when we saw the neighbors stop to ad¬ 
mire it. 
Now, my dear “ man of the house!” just clean 
up all of those old ash-barrels, boxes, chunks of 
wood, chips, old boots and shoes, bones, brush, 
rags, dead weeds, refuse and trash of every 
description, and how a little grass seed on spots 
not already seeded. Now cut out a few ueat. 
beds in the turf of the lawn and yard, and fill 
them with soil well enriched with well-rotted 
manure. Make your beds deep, mellow, and 
rich. Wife and daughters will see that they 
are handsomely adorned the coming summer 
with beautiful flowers. A few flowering 
shrubs, set in good, rich, mellow earth, will add 
to the effect. Don't tell us that you do not 
love flowers, and that they are of no account. 
Pshaw 1 Even a savage contemplates them 
with pleasure. Even he who affects contempt, 
can hut admire them in his heart, and will he 
caught eyeing them askance. Oh, husband¬ 
man, if thee wants to make thy home attract¬ 
ive, to thyself, thy wife, and thy children, make 
it neat and beautiful. A little time spent around 
thy dwelling, will work wonders in making thy 
home attractive, and attaching thy children to 
their home, where they will grow up to bless 
thee. Let not the spring depart from thee 
without giving this matter attention, I pray 
theel __ f. 
GRAPES IN LATITUDE 43, N. 
The following is a summary from a grape 
report for 1863, in the Horticulturist. It was 
made in New York, latitude 43 deg. N., em¬ 
braces the leading varieties cultivated, aud un¬ 
doubtedly the principal features may be relied 
upon. They are given in their order of ripening; 
Hartford Prolific. — Ripe, Sept. 1st.; 
quality poor; drops badly from the bunch after 
being picked a day or two: never becomes sweet 
to the center. 
Delaware.— Ripe Sept. 11th; quality first 
best. This grape can not be too highly recom¬ 
mended for its earliness, hardiness, quality and 
its freedom from loss of berry by dropping, rot 
or mildew. 
Rogers’ Hybrid.—R ipe Sept. 18th; quality 
good; a first class black grape, hardy, early 
ripening and large berries. 
Diana.— Ripe Sept. 20th; quality next to Del¬ 
aware. Tills was the healthiest variety of 
thirty-two, suffering neither from mildew, loss 
of berry, or rot. 
Allen's IIvuiud.— Ripe Sept. 20th; quality 
best; tender; no pulp; one of the best white 
grapes; mildewed on leaf. 
Rebecca.— Ripe Sept. 20th; quality best; 
mildewed lightly on leaf. 
Union Village.— Ripe Sept. 25th; quality 
good; rot lightly. 
Concord.— Ripe Sept. 25th; quality poor, 
similar to Hartford Prolific: leaf blight slightly. 
Isabella.— Ripe Sept. 28th; quality moder¬ 
ate; leaf blight badly; failed to set well; not 
worthy of cultivation where Delawares can 
be had. 
Clinton,— Ripe Sept, 28th; quality poor; not 
lit for table use; said to make good claret wine. 
To Kalon.— Ripe Sept. 28th; quality best; 
liable to rot; best of the black grapes. 
Clara.— Ripe Oct. 8th; quality good. 
Anna.— Not ripe till Nov.; dry rot; drop 
badly. 
Catawba. —Ripe Oct. 12th; quality fair; rot 
badly. 
The Isabella, Catawba, Clara, Cuyahoga, 
Union Village and Rebecca did not ripen their 
wood this year, and require to be warmly pro¬ 
tected during the winter. 
FRUIT PROSPECTS. 
Kansas,— The Evening Bulletin, of Leaven¬ 
worth, says:—From Mr. Tanner, one of the 
most extensive fruiters in this portion of the 
State, we learn that all, or nearly all, of the 
peaches were killed last February by the hard 
freezing. Many young peach trees were also 
killed. There will be an abundance of cherries, 
should there be no frost. In fact, there is a 
good prospect for an abundance of all kinds of 
fruit except peaches. 
Northern Ohio.—H. B. E., of Cleveland, 
Ohio, writes us:—Fruit prospects in Northern 
Ohio are poor this spring. The peach buds arc 
thought to be all killed, and grape buds very 
much injured. The larger or main buds appear 
to be all killed, but there may still be a fair crop 
of grapes from second or forced shoots, as the 
wood is healthy and mostly uninjured. 
The practice of laying down the vines in 
winter, as in Western New York, has never 
been practiced to any extent about Cleveland. 
Unless the vines hud been covered, laying them 
down would not have saved the buds this win¬ 
ter, as buds of both peaches aud tender cher¬ 
ries inserted in seedling stocks last fall are all 
dead now, and very close to the ground at that. 
Ten years ago the same calamity befel the 
grape buds, and proved very serious. We hope 
that this year it may not be so bad. The Heart 
cherry buds are also dead to all appearance. 
Pears and apples are all right. Strawberries 
are badly killed out. and so is the winter wheat. 
Business of *U kinds good and prosperous; and 
the disposition to whip the rebels is good. 
Lei.and Co., Mich.—M rs. J. E. F. writes, 
from a locality known as the Grand Traverse 
region, over 200 miles north-east from Chicago, 
almost directly on the 45th parallel N. latitude. 
She says:—Wo have thirty bearing peach trees; 
they are all looking fine, not even a bud in¬ 
jured as I can discover, except on one tree, and 
that tree Is the only one that has been trimmed. 
The ends of a few of the limbs are killed about 
two inches, otherwise that looks well. Our 
mode of culture is no culture at all. We planted 
the pits aud let them grow (hoeing around them 
occasionally to keep the grass away) without 
trimming. Cattle got in and ate the limbs ofl 
twice; that did not seem to injure, but rather to 
harden them. Our soil Is sandy. Snow gener¬ 
ally about two feet. Our coldest weather the 
past winter was fifteen degrees below zero— 
the second morning in January. Our country 
is new yet, but it bids fair to be one of the best 
peach growing regions east of the Rocky Moun¬ 
tains. 
POMOLOGICAL GOSSIP. 
The Adirondac Grape. — Mr. Chorlton, 
author of the Grope Growers' Guide , says:—“I 
con.-ider the Adirondac the commencement of a 
class which will ultimately become equal in 
quality to Black Hamburgh, and of similar 
flavor and texture. I saw it at two exhibitions 
last season, and am sure that we are in a fair 
way to arrive at—what I have recited many 
times—a quality in the native equal to the 
exotic. The Delaware will lead to a class re¬ 
sembling Frontignans in flavor, while in the 
Adirondac we have an approach to the full- 
flavored, and not musky taste of, Hamburgh. 
There is no hard pulp in Adirondac, and this 
defect now being overcome, there is a certainty 
of final perfection if followed up in right man¬ 
ner by generations of seedlings.” 
Grapes for Maine. —Mr. Goodale says the 
Delaware, Hartford Prolific and Northern Mus¬ 
cadine are the three best grapes for out-door 
culture in Maine. They should be protected in 
winter, for they will bear so much better for it 
the following year. The Diana, he says, is sub¬ 
ject to the dry rot. Dr. Weston says the Del¬ 
aware had proved successful at Bangor. The 
Hartford Prolific would grow anywhere and 
ripen its fruit if judiciously cared for. The 
Rebecca is not so hardy as the others. He could 
not recommend the Diana for general cultivation. 
The Frost and Grapes at ffltuwo, 111. — From 
a letter we find in the Horticulturist from Nau- 
voo, Ill., we extract the following:—“The 
Catawbas, Isabellas, Dianas, Rebeccas, and even 
the Hartford Prolific?, which I hoped could 
stand cold weat her better than almost any other 
kind, seem to be entirely dead as high above the 
ground as they were bare, and not covered with 
snow. There are several other sorts equally as 
badly hurt, and there are none of whatever 
kind that have not suffered a great deal. Those 
that seem to have suffered the least, and of 
which some grapes may, perhaps, be expected, 
are the Delaware, Concord, Clinton, and some 
of the Norton's Virginia seedling. The Logan 
and some of the To Kalon also appear to have a 
few sound buds. Each bud, as you know, con¬ 
tains from two to four eyes or buds; the center 
one, which is the best fruit-bearing, is dead, 
even in the hardiest kinds: but in the Delaware, 
Concord aud Clinton, many of the buds contain 
still two sound, living eyes or buds. Those who 
took the trouble last fall to bury their vines, 
may congratulate themselves, for their prospect 
is promising.” 
Gmpes in Centred Ioica, Latitude 42 Deg.— 
Luther Dodd reports tee order in which 
grapes ripened with him last season: — “ Hart¬ 
ford Prolific, Sept. 1st; Delaware, Sept. 10th: 
Northern Muscadine, Sept, 15th; Concord, vines 
four years old,) Sept. 3d; To Kalon, Oct. 1st; 
Diana, Oct. 10th, (sweet and good;) York Ma- 
deria, Elsingburgh and Anna, all failed to ripen 
any fruit. The Diana has grown the most 
rapidly and borne the most fruit. The Dela¬ 
ware is certainly the best, and Diana next. To 
Kalon, simply good. Hartford Prolific, N. Mus- 
cadlue and Concord, I class together, and call 
them poor.” 
The Black Barbarossa and Lady Doicne 
Grapes. — E. Freykr, of New London, Conn., 
says a vine of this variety, in one of the graper¬ 
ies in his charge, bore last season about 28 
pounds of fruit, the bunches weighing from one 
one-half to four pounds each. Many of the 
bunches remained on the vine up to January 
last, and every berry was still plump and in 
good order. Two bunches remained until the 
2d day of March, 1864; a few of the berries 
were plump; the balance good raisins. For 
late keeping he calls it one of the best, if not the 
best variety yet introduced. He says It will not 
bear close priming; that is, it will not bear a 
full crop if pruned as close as vines generally 
are on the spur system. Double spurring, as 
recommended by C'noRLTON, is the method by 
which he has found It to produce a fair crop 
every year. The editor of the Horticulturist, 
commenting on the above:—“ The Barbarossa is 
undoubtedly valuable as a late keeping grape. 
It is also a profitable grape to grow for market. 
We are Inclined to think, however, that the 
Lady Downe is quite as valuable in these re¬ 
spects, besides being a very much better grape.” 
tbit’s liturre Bear. — The April Horticul¬ 
turist contains an engraving of this fruit which 
the editor says is “ a pear as yet but little grown, 
but of decided excellence, and destined, we 
think, to become quit© popular. It is a good 
grower and bears well. It has sustained its 
goodness wherever we have seen it. Fruit , 
medium, obovate, inclining to pyriform. Skin, 
yellow, deeply covered with russet, often with 
a beautiful crimson cheek. Calyx, large, open, 
with narrow segments in a broad, very shallow 
basin. Stalk, short and stout, inserted in a 
small fleshy cavity. Flesh, buttery, juicy, 
spicy, and vinous, but a little gritty at the core. 
Quality, best. Season, September and October. 
It is an American pear, having originated in 
Ohio.’’ 
“ Canada Wine Grape. ” — A "Washington 
County N. Y. correspondent writes us he has 
about an acre of bearing vines, which have been 
in cultivation several years, with the above 
name. This grape makes an excellent wine, he 
says, is fair for table use, thrifty grower, good 
bearer, hardy, ripens early, ** turning in Au¬ 
gust." This is all the description our corre¬ 
spondent gives of this grape. We never heard 
of it before. Do our readers know it? 
Horticultural 
Oporto Grape W ike —The N. Y. State Agricultural 
Society, at its Annual Meeting, awarded to E Ware 
Stlvester, the Society’s Silver Medal for specimens of 
Oporto Wine. 
■ «■.- 
Old Pear Trees.— Pear trees are standing in De¬ 
troit, planted by the French settlers over one hundred 
and fifty years ago, and they bear profusely without 
presenting any symptoms of decay. 
Hickory asd Birch Pplixts for tying Grapes. 
—Mr. S. H. Sutton, of Naples, N. Y., says that hick 
ory and birch splints answer a very good purpose in 
tying up grape vines. They should be well soaked be¬ 
fore being used. 
Protect Your Trees. —The Ohio Farmer says that 
coal ofl has been found, by accident, to be a most 
effective means of protecting fruit trees against ravages 
of l lie curculio, by placing sawdust, saturated with oil, 
at the foot of the tree. 
-- 
Catalogues, Ac., Received. — 1. From Edgar 
Sanders, Chicago, Ill., his seventh annual catalogue 
of plants, <fcc. Mr. Sanders is a practical and accom¬ 
plished florist. 2. From A. G. Hanford & Brother, 
Columbus, Ohio, their Spring Catalogue of New 
Plants, grown and for sale at the Columbus Nursery. 
gfuqutHe.s aud gVtiiSwm. 
Round and Flat Bouquets.— Will some of the 
readers of the Rural please inform me how to matte 
round and dat bouquets such as are seen at Fairs.— 
Nellie, XewfieM- 
What will Kill Young Locust Trees?— So asks 
an Ohio correspondent. We answer borers! But if 
yon want to kill those which sprout up, treat them as 
you do any weed; cut down as quick and as often as 
they appear. 
Work on Hedging.— (N. P. J., Richland, Iowa. 
Warder*.? Hedges and Evergreens is the best work on 
hedges published. We will mail it to you on receipt of 
$ 1. Had yon read the Rural the past three years yon 
would hardly have cautioned us “not to forget the 
West.” 
Purchasing Annual Plants— (Mrs. C. F. P.) If 
yon can get annuals :n pots, well grown, cheaply, when 
it is safe to transplant, we should certainly purchase 
enough to get early blossoms. Meantime you can sow 
s ced in a warm border, and grow plants for a succession 
of late blooms. 
Roses. —(A Young Gardener.) SouvenirdeMaJmai- 
son rose Is classed with the Bourbon roses, but La 
Rerue is a remontant The former is not as hardy as 
the latter and in many localities needs protection. The 
Baltimore Belle and Queen of the Prairie are not ex¬ 
celled as climbing roses. The pink and red Boussault 
give bloom earlier in the season. 
Annuals that should not be Transplanted.— 
(Miss Jennie H , Aurora) Candytuft, Mignonette, 
Larkspurs, Convolvulus, Poppies, Sweet Peas, Lupins, 
should be sown where they are to remain. They should 
not be transplanted. They are sometimes started ;n 
pots in a hot bed and transferred to the horde? without 
hreaking the boll of earth in the pots. This is easily 
done. 
Preparing Flower. Beds. —Miss Abigail asks for 
directions in preparing flower beds. The soil should 
be stirred deep, made rich by the use of well rotted 
manure or muck, or vegetable mold, and above all, it 
must be completely pulverized—made as fine and live¬ 
ly as the best of coffee sugar. This done, seeds pos¬ 
sessing any vitality at all cannot fail to germinate and 
grow, if pat in at the right time. 
Pear Trees Dying.—W hy is it that in some locali¬ 
ties the pear tree begins to decay just as soon as it be¬ 
gins to bear fruit; commencing sometimes in the top 
limb, or decaying on one side, white tlie other naft of 
the tree looks green and thrifty.— M. A. E., Porter, 
If is. 
Evidently our correspondent refers to blight. There 
are different, canses assigned for this disease ; bnt we 
are not aware that any remedy for it has been found. 
It i3 not confined to bearing trees, however. 
Saw-Dust About Grape Vines —Can any of your 
readers tell me whether saw dust, four inches deep, or 
deep enough to prevent the growth of weeds and grass 
about a grape vine, covering a space of four or five feet, 
will exdude the heat of the snn from the roots of the 
vine enough to retard Us growth 3 It is a w ell estab¬ 
lished fact that saw dust is‘a repulsor of heat. Wheth¬ 
er it has that property by decomposition is a matter 
which prompted the above inquiry.— Wn. McKenon, 
Livingston Co.. X. 1". 
The Early Wild Flower- —.Jessie G., Oshkosh.) 
Your practice of studying and transplanting and pre¬ 
serving wild spring fiowera is commendable. There 
are many wild beauties that it Is exceedingly difficult 
to transplant successfully—the greatest difficulty arising 
from the want of suitable conditions of soil and expo¬ 
sure. Regard must be bad to their natural habits—to 
the protection afforded them by nature In their native 
homes. There are many wild llowers of rare beauty 
being lost to the country—especially prairie, and wood¬ 
land flowers —as it becomes settled and cultivated. 
Any eilort to woo these beauties to linger in our gar¬ 
dens, deserves encouragement, and will And its own 
compensation if successful. 
Phlox Drummondi Varieties.— Mrs. Alice M. W. 
asks how many varieties of Phlox Drummondi there 
are, and which are the best 3 We do not know how 
many varieties there are. Wo do know that there is a 
no more desirable annual—no one which gives a great¬ 
er variety and profusion of brilliant blossoms in the 
season. Vies in his catalogue enumerates the follow¬ 
ing varieties:— Deep Purple; Brilliant Scarlet: rosea, 
beautiful rose color; ms,-a alho-ocuLUa, beautiful rcse 
with distinct white eye; Radoicitsii, rose, striped with 
white; R. Kermesina striata, crimson, striped with 
white, new; R. Viotacea, violet, striped with white, 
new; jiore-albo, pure white; Jlore alba oeuLsta, pure 
white, with purple eye; Yariabilis, violet and lilac. 
Soap-suds for Pie Plant.— \ Mrs. J. E. F.) It may 
be well to use soap-suds about pie plant occasionally, 
but not often, we think, except in very dry weather. 
We should prefer to ponr the soap-suds on a compost 
heap, embracing decaying wood, chip manure, the 
rakinga of the lawn, the refuse from cellars, old mortar, 
leaves, leached ashes, bones from the soap kettle, etc., 
Ac. —whatever accumulates about the house which 
should be cleaned away. Get your husbahd to lay some 
troughs from your kitchen to such a heap—if you can 
get descent enough—aud let the suds, chamber lay, Ac., 
flow to it. Be sure to have muck, leaves, loam, char¬ 
coal or decaying wood enough iu the pile to absorb the 
liquids. Do not let them waste away. With sneh a 
compost added to the soil, yon can grow pie plant or 
anything else. 
kmstu (Btmmu. 
SKELETONIZING LEAVES. 
This is my method of skeletonizing leaves. 
They look well. Begin as soon as the leaves 
are full-grown; we found It the best, for the 
pulp is harder to remove when it is old. It is a 
very slow process; a little of Job’s patience is 
not amiss in the performance; but when done, 
they are truly beautiful. Select firm, perfect 
leaves of any kind, such as, eamelia, apple, 
pear, magnolia, ivy, jessamine, maple, linden, 
(the lost two have a most beautiful skeleton,) the 
ivy that creeps up walls is the easiest to do of 
any thing. 
Steep the firmer varieties in hot water a few 
minutes, then take them out and lay them in 
cold rain water for three weeks, or until the 
pulp will remove. Do not change the water at 
all; after this, remove one at a time on a glass 
or plate, with clean water in a pan; then take 
a camel’s hair peneil or very soft brush, remove 
the soft, pulpy parts of the leaf. If it will not 
remove, place them back in the water they were 
removed from. They must be free from the 
pulp; nothing but the fibers must be left. 
Many things w ill bleach without skeletonizing 
and be pretty, such as ferns and some seed ves¬ 
sels: clover leaves will also bleach. Do not let 
them remain in the solution of lime more than a 
day or two: but watch them. If they remain 
in too long, they will be eaten up. 
Jamestown burs require to lay in water two 
months or more. They are very pretty. To¬ 
mato pods do not require so long a time. The 
Jamestown burs must be full grown and rather 
old. I guess. 
Bleach, by laying them in a liquid made bY 
putting more than a tablespooDful of chloride of 
lime in a quart of rain water, shake it well after 
it has stood for some hours, then strain it several 
times to remove all the particles of lime. Then 
lay the leaves separate, watch them; as soon as 
right white, remove them to dry; as soon as 
dry, shut them from the air to keep them from 
getting yellow. "We placed them in books until 
we got ready to bunch. I hear there is a prep¬ 
aration to be got that is better than the chloride 
of lime. It comes at fifty cents a bottle, and a 
bottle holds a quart. I do not know the name, 
it is got at a drag store, I presume, 
When bunching them, take the finest wire to 
make stems for the leaves. Take beeswax and 
put turpentine in it until it is soft enough to 
make the wire stick to the leaves.— Susan 
FOGG, Salem, JV. 1”. 
Another correspondent says: —Soak the 
leaves in a weak solution of sulphuric acid, 
which eats away all the body of the leaf leaving 
only the fibers in the form of a delicate net 
work.—L. G. Yates, non du Lac, JFis. 
-- 
RICE PUDDING RECIPES. 
L. C. J. M., of Lime St, X. Y., sends us what 
she says she knows to be a good one:—Take a 
teacupful of raw rice to two quarts of milk, 
sweeten 3nd flavor to taste;—she uses nutmeg. 
Put into a slow oven; stir frequently until the 
rice begins to swell. Bake about two hours. 
Mrs. C. S., of Pa., writes:—Take two quarts 
of new milk, to which add one teacupful of 
rice, well washed; three tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
a lump of butter the size of a hickory nut and a 
little grated nutmeg. Bake one hour iu a hot 
oven. 
S. B. P., of Honeoye, ■writes:—To two quarts 
of milk add three tablespooufuls of rice; one cup 
of sugar; one teaspoonful of salt; nutmeg. Let 
it stand in the back of the stove all the morning 
in order to become thoroughly soaked. Bake 
three-quarters of an hour. It is excellent when 
cold. No sauce is required, as it makes a cream 
of itself. 
# 
Marion M. M., Brownhelm, Lorain Co., 
Ohio, writes:— “Ada E.. Seneca, X. Y., will 
find this an excellent recipe for rice pudding. 
Boil i lb. unground rice in one quart of milk 
: until soft, then stir in £ lb. of butter; take it 
from the fire, put in one pint cold milk, salt, 
and grated nutmeg. "When lukewarm, add four 
beaten eggs, with £ lb. sugar and £ lb. of raisins. 
Turn the whole into a buttered dish and bake 
f of an hour. Serve with sugar and eream, or 
butter and sugar. 
Mr?. M. S. P„ sends the following:—Two 
cups of rice, washed well in cold water, turning 
off the water several time-, aud pouring on dean. 
Put it into a kettle with two quarts of cold wa¬ 
ter; boil until perfectly tender, (stir often to pre- 
. vent sticking,) then put it into your pudding 
pan, turn in cold milk and stir it up: two eggs, 
well beaten: 1£ cups sugar: salt and nutmeg to 
your taste. This will make a four-quart panful. 
Bake two hours. This I call a plain rice pud- 
ding. 
DOMESTIC INQUIRIES. 
Lemon Pie.—W ill some reader of the Rural please 
send me a tip-top recipe for lemon pie? I’ve tried a 
number of different ones but none of them suited Tom. 
—Matte, Witliamsrille . 
Coloring Kid Gloves.—W ill some one please in¬ 
form me. through the columns of the Rural, how to 
color kid gloves dark brown, black, or any other very 
dark color? By so doing they will very much oblige— 
A Reader. 
To Color Blue Tissue Silk Bbown. —Will some of 
your readers tell me how to color blue tissue silk brown 
without injuring the silk?—E va, SmUhjieid, O. 
[special notice.] 
Get wrat you call for. —And be sure to call for 
the genuine Chemical Saleratns, made by De Land & 
Co., and put up in bright red papers. There is a bogus 
article in the market, in green papers, which should be 
avoided by those who want a good thing. 
