ESTABLISHED IN 1850, 
cd for cheapness, and admit of speedy malting. 
The durability of gates depend in a great mea¬ 
sure in the solidity and size of the posts to which 
they are hung. 
strike too hard. It Is essential that you set the 
teeth the'rtgAt way . If there is no set already in 
the saw to guide you, it is enough to know that 
the points of the teeth are at the outside. 
Now to tile the saw. Get two strips of board 
two or three Inches wide and a little longer than 
the buw. Tlace the edges even and put a nail 
through the ends. Now as a guide to the tile, 
draw some pencil lines an inch or so apart across 
the edge of the clamp, In a diagonal direction. 
I have found by experience, that, for a coarse 
saw, the flic should be used at an angle of forty- 
five degrees, or what carpenteus call a “ miter,” 
to the saw. Draw your lines both ways as shown 
the best for the outside. I make the house 13 
feet wide, because a floor board will then reach 
across, without the waste and labor of piecing. 
It is 13 feet high, as a board will then reach from 
sill to plate.* In using 3 by 4 scantling for the 
sides, turn them flat ways as they are thou thick 
enough for walls. As their chief use is for lath¬ 
ing to, strips of boards three inches wide can 
take the place of most of them. Now, being 
ready to commence, everything on bund, with a 
good, live carpenter to help, I will show how it 
can be built In “less time than It takes to de¬ 
scribe it.” 
Tako two sticks 2 by 4,13 feet long, and lay one 
on each end wall forend sills; then taken 2by 7, 
22 feet long, notch the corners so that it will 
rest on the 2 by 4 and also on the Avails, and use 
it as a pattern for bIx more. Then place them 
along on the 2 by 4, about 26 inches from cen¬ 
ters, and you have the sills and floor timbers on 
in one hour’s time if you have been quick, while 
two carpenters would have been all day with 
square and chisels and augers by the old ways 
of doing work. Now lay the floor. It Is an 
innovation on orthodox carpentry but must be 
done for the sake of progress. We want the 
floor to start the studs ou, and to work on. 
Take next two 3 by 4, 13 feet long, and lay one 
over each end wall edgewise, and take two 2 by 
7, 22 feet long, and lay them ou, over the side 
sills, and nail them ; they form a frame for the 
chamber floor timbers. Cut four studs 7 feet 8 
Inches long. Nail up the two corner boards at 
each corner of the building, then raise the frame 
up and set the Btuda under tho corners. Put 
some temporary braces to keep it plumb, and 
then commence to board around, nailing it well 
as you go. 
that is needed to give it a good appearance. 
The plans will make this plain to a workman. 
There is a horizontal and vertical section. In 
MOORE’S RUgAL NEW-YORKER, 
XX ORIGINAL WEEKLY 
RURAL, LITERARY AND FAMILY NEWSPAPER 
The Management of Wood Lots. 
The “ constant readers ” of the Rural have 
received many timely bints from its columns, 
bearing on this important branch of farming. 
Yearly its importance increases. The wood lot 
diminishes in size and not mvfrequently dis¬ 
appears altogether from the farm. Thus far 
there seems generally to be adopted but little 
system in its management, and few owners of a 
wood lot have any idea of the amount of the 
yearly increase of wood in their forests. That 
every farm should have a wood lot of some size 
will admit of no question; forests are almost, 
one of the agricultural necessities of any coun¬ 
try, and being so, It is the duty of every land 
owner to Ibrulsh a share. We will give a few 
hiuts on this subject. 
'Hie wood lot should he fenced, so as to exclude 
all kiuds of stock. Next, a system of regular 
cutting should be lot reduced. It has been found 
by experiments tbatmore wood will be produced 
during the first twenty years of its growth than 
during the succeeding twenty years. Hence, 
when the production of wood alone is the object 
in view, it la more profitable to cut over the 
land once in twenty or even fifteen years than to 
let it grow a longer time. It has also been toler¬ 
ably well ascertained that the annual growth of 
wood per acre on fertile laud, ranges from a 
cord and a half to two cords, during the first 
fifteen or twenty years, and if this estimate 
be correct one can readily calculate what amount 
of wood land is needed to furnish fanners the 
requisite supply of fuel. 
Suppose a farmer bums thirty cords of wood 
each year, If well eared for and grown on fer¬ 
tile laud, fifteen acres of forest will furnish that 
amount for an indefinite time. Cut one acre 
each year. Leave nothing standing but the 
undergrowth and thrifty saplings. Alter two 
years thin out this acre, leaving only the best 
growth disposed at proper distances. In fifteen 
years tho entire wood lot will have been cut 
over and yon will have to commence on the 
first acre again. If this has Increased at the 
rate of two cords per year, it will will then fur¬ 
nish thirty cords. 
One can easily calculate the profit which may 
he derived from a wood lot thus managed. Esti¬ 
mating the wood to be worth five dollars per 
cord standing, it would amount to one hundred 
and fifty dollars per acre. This sum divided by 
fifteen, the number of years required to grow it, 
gives the profit per year. Ten dollars annual 
Interest, without any labor, is uot a bad return 
lor au average acre of land. 
CONDUCTED BY D. D. T. MOORE, 
With a CorpM of Aide Awbliinto und Contributor*. 
HENRY S. RANDALL, LL, D. f 
Editor of tho Department of Sheep Husbandry, 
VARIOUS TOPICS DISCUSSED 
Harrowing Winter Wheat in the Spring. 
We have an inquiry before ns from “A Sub¬ 
scriber,” asking for Information about the re¬ 
sults of barrowing winter wheat in the spring. 
Who among our readers has tried thin method of 
cultivation, and will report to us his conclusions 
regarding it? If done at all this work should 
be performed as soon in tho spring as the sur¬ 
face of the ground dries and cracks open. It is 
not likely, however, that all wheat fields would 
come out the better for this operation. Drilled 
wheat with its roots not at all thrown up by the 
frost, would doubtless be lu the most favorable 
condition ; but that sown broadcast, and partly 
raised by the frost, might be uprooted by the 
harrow. If grass seed bad been sown the pro¬ 
ceeding autumn, it would of course, be mostly 
destroyed by this spring cultivation; but if the 
barrowing were done early It would leave the 
ground lu excellent condition to sow grass and 
clover seed immediately after. In England they 
use cultivators so constructed that a tooth passes 
between the drilled rows of wheat, and a great 
deal is hoed by band. 
Regarding the harrowing of winter wheat in 
the_ spring, Tuaek, the groat German Agricul¬ 
tural^ writer, says: If it is only just beginning 
to vegetate in the spring, and the soil Ib tolera¬ 
bly dry, nothing will prove so beneficial us to 
pass a harrow, having Iron teeth, over it. By 
this means the crust will be broken up, which 
has been formed over the ground during tho past 
winter, and the superficial stratum of the soil 
brought into direct contuct with the atmos¬ 
phere; the coronal roots which shoot about this 
time, there find around them a soil recently im¬ 
pregnated with atmospheric matter, which tends 
greatly to favor the growth of the plants, while 
those weeds which shoot up at this season will 
all be destroyed by the action of the barrow. 
A fine day should be chosen for this operation 
which must be boldly undertaken. If after this 
the field has every appearance of being uuwly 
sown, and no green leaf, as indeed, anything but 
the bare ground is perceptible, then there is 
every reason to hope, that the operation will be 
attended with success, 
) n the sketch. The file must incline to the end of 
tho saw, Put the saw in the vise and proceed, 
holding the tile level and using it in the direction 
ol the lines. File both sides without turning the 
saw around as some mechanics do. It is possible, 
even now, for you to file entirely wrong, as It is 
possible to grind the wrong side of a scythe, 
but 1 shall make no supposition so derogatory 
to your common sense. I am confident that 
with a little practice you will save many times 
tho trouble it took to learn.” 
PLAN OP BRACKETS. 
the first A is the 3 by 4; B the weather board¬ 
ing ; S, S the sash, and C the strip that stops the 
lath and plaster represented at D. In the verti¬ 
cal section, B weather-board, A the 3 by 4 that 
forms tho head, II window stool, F window cap 
with bracket. By cutting tho weather boards 
in a circular shape, the chamber window can bo 
made as shown in iho elevation. When It is 
boarded around lay the chamber floor and put 
In the plates; a 2 by 7 piece sawed in two will 
make them both. 
In boarding up t he gables, set the gable raft¬ 
ers oven with the outsidu of the weather-boards, 
then the gable boarding will set outside the 
lower boards, making it perfectly weather-proof. 
Out the ends as shown ; it helps give it a finish. 
In regard to the roof let it project at least 18 
inches and plane Die ends of tho rafters. The 
expense of such a large board is but trifling. 
The partitions can be made of seasoned matched 
boards at a great saving of plaster, and they are 
just as good. 
Prices of labor and materials vary so much 
in different places that uo estimate of the coBt 
of the cottage will be of value, but getting the 
prices at the nearest lumber yard any one can 
ascertain the cost very nearly from the accom¬ 
panying bill of materials. With two weeks 
help from a carpenter any one should be able to 
complete the building: 
21 pieces 2 bv 7, 22 feet long. 
20 “ 2 -I. 13 feel., for rafters. 
25 *» 3 “ -I, 13 feet long. 
25 strip* 3 Inches wide. 
100 8 Inch boards for covering, 
fifi “ “ for floor. 
40 0 “ “ for roof. 
4000 Bhlugles. 
30 3 inch boards will form the partition and make 
the doors. 
A keg of 8 d nail*, 20 lbs. of shingle nails. 
With board partitions it will take to finish 
both floors, 20 bundles of lath, 2 barrels lime, 
40 bushels sand ; 250 brick will be sufficient for 
the chimney, as it starts in the chamber. 
FARM TENANT HOUSES-NO. I, 
|Wb publish below the first one of a series 
of articles on Farm Tenant Houses, written for 
the Rural by a correspondent in New York 
city, over the signature of J. Plane :] 
I send yon a plan and some directions for 
building a small cottage suitable for a farm ten¬ 
ant, thinking It might be of interest to farmers, 
also to men of small means, who possess the 
landablc desiro of having a home of their own. 
For the latter class the building directions are 
especially designed, as the savlug of a few dol¬ 
lars to a well-to-do farmer is not of much ac¬ 
count. The building ol houses that shall be 
within the mcanB of the most humble, is of great 
importance to society. A little cottage, though 
cheap and simple, is as much a home to its in¬ 
mate us the more pretending structure is to the 
man of wealth. 
GROUND PLAN. 
But you soon reach a place lor a window. 
Now you can put up a bench in the barn and 
set the carpenter to making window frames, if 
you wish ; he will saw out casings a quarter of 
an inch too wide, and then plane them down 
according to science. But there is a simpler way. 
Plane a side and edge of 2 3 by 4 sticks that are cut 
off the right length, Bet one ol them so that the 
weather-board projects one-half an inch. Just 
28 inches from It start up the other one, the 
planed edges towards each other; a sash of 8 by 
13 glass will slide between. Make a window stool 
of 2 by 7 timber, 34 inches long, and just 4 feet 0 
inches above the stool, cut across apiece of 3 by 
4 for a head. In boarding let the boards go be¬ 
low the head onc-half an inch. A cap composed 
of a piece of 2 by 7 with some brackets, is all 
How to Set and File a Saw. 
F., of Westchester county, N. Y., sends the 
Rural the following timely and practical bints 
about the setttng aud filing of saws:—'“I believe 
some instruction in the art of setting and filing 
a saw, will be of benefit to the farming commu¬ 
nity, as most of the fire-wood is now-a-days pre¬ 
pared for the stove by the saw. Fanners gene¬ 
rally live such a distance from a village that they 
will often use a saw so dull, that double the 
amount of labor is required to work it. After 
half a day’s use, a saw should be filed; much 
hard labor will be saved thereby. By the way, 
you can always tell the quality of a mechanic by 
the condition of his saw. If the torn fibers 
close upon the blade and he can only get it 
through by dint of main strength, by tugging 
enough to pull the handle off, and with ejacula¬ 
tions more emphatic than pious, don’t hire him. 
ne is dear at any price. 
With a little patience and perseverance, a man 
of any “ gumption” can soon learn to put a saw 
in order. The first thing to attend to, is to 
“set” the saw. This consists in spreading the 
teeth so as to give free ran for the blade, aud is 
as essential as filing. Some progress can be 
made with the dullest of saws if it have sufficient 
set. All that is required to set a saw is a nail 
punch and a smooth block of hard wood; they 
will do as well as any patent Bet ever invented. 
If you have not a nail punch use an old file with 
the end broken off and ground square. Lay the 
saw on the block, bolding it down with the left 
arm, stand the punch on the tooth, Inclining it 
a little from you so that it rests more on the end 
of the tooth, then a light blow with a hammer 
will bend the tooth into the block, or, in other 
words, set it. If you are fearful of missing the 
punch and hitting your thumb, you will strike 
just hard enough, otherwise you will be apt to 
Should a few torn leaves 
or blades of wheat be perceptible, it will not 
matttqr providing the plants themselves are uot 
torn up. After a lapue of eight or ten days, if 
the weather is favorable, the plants will shoot 
up afresh, and the field will then present a much 
greener and better aspect thau It did before the 
operation.” 
We believe that drilled, well rooted wheat 
plants would defy the power of the harrow to 
pull them out of the ground, or materially in¬ 
jure them, and we advise wheat growers to try 
harrowing at least on a small scale for experi¬ 
ment sake. 
Farm Gates—Again. 
We have received recently several commu¬ 
nications on the above subject, accompanied 
with original plans and drawings, for which we 
are duly grateful. But for obvious reasons — 
presenting our readers with a variety of topics 
being a promluent.one—we defer further illus¬ 
trations at present. 
One correspondent suggests that a reversal of 
the general position of the main brace would 
be an improvement, namely, let it run from the 
top of the rear post of the gate to the bottom of 
the middle or front post. This position of the 
brace lias a good effect in keeping the gate from 
Ragging. 
Another endorses our remark on farm-bars, 
viz: that they have their place on the farm, which 
he thinks is to remain in use until the farmer 
can replace them with gates. He likewise de¬ 
scribes a gate made entirely of round poles, the 
only tools needed being an ax, drawing-knife. 
ELEVATION — END VIEW. 
I do not think it possible to build a cottage 
cheaper than here laid down. The building is 
13 by 22, aud contains one room 13 by 14, (inclu¬ 
sive of walls,) a bedfroora 7 by 8, stairway and 
pantry on the ground floor. The stairs start at 
the side and land near the middle, giving two 
bed rooms and a closet in the chamber. For a 
small family the rooms arc large enough and 
there are plenty of them. It is to be covered 
with 7-8 planed and matched boards, and bat¬ 
tened. I recommend this covering for such a 
cottage, because it is cheaper, tighter, more du¬ 
rable, and, to my taste, looks better than auy 
other. The roof is what the builders call a 
square pitch—that is, it rises half the width of 
the house. It gives more room, is more dura¬ 
ble, and looks better than a roof of ordinary 
pitch. The floor timbers ran lengthwise the 
house, because having a support near the mid¬ 
dle, they are much stronger than if they run 
across the house. All the material for a house 
should be bought long enough before use to 
ensure a thorough seasoning; such a course will 
well pay the trouble. Pine is best for the weath¬ 
er boarding, but for the floors, spruce or hem¬ 
lock will do. If there is not much difference in 
t he prices, buy enough pine for all and sort out 
PORTRAIT OF AN ENGLISH CART-HORSE, 
WITH TERMS DENOTING TUB EXTERNAL FARTS OF THE HORSE, 
'W' 
1. Muzzle. 
2 . Race. 
3. Forehead. 
4. Poll. 
5. Crest. 
(>. Jowl. 
7. Gullet. 
8. Windpipe, 
9. Point of Shoulder. 
10. Breast or Bosom. 
11. Arm. 
12. Elbow'. 
13. Girth. 
34. Flank. 
15. Sheath. 
13. Stifles. 
17. Withers 
18. Back. 
19. Loins. 
20. Hip. 
21. Croup. 
22. Dock. 
23. Quarter, 
24. Thigh or Gaskin 
25. Hamstring. 
25. Joint of Hock. 
27. Ham of Hock. 
28. Common. 
29. Fetlock. 
30. Large Pastern. 
31. Small Pastern. 
132. Coronet. 
88 . Hoof. 
34. Knee. 
35. Common. 
36. Fetlock. 
37. Heel. 
88 , barge. 
39. IS mall Pastern 
40. Hoof Pastern. 
TERMS, $3.00 PER YEAR.] 
f 
“PROGRESS -AJSHD IMI J PtOVEIVIENT.” 
[SINGIjIC NO. TEN CENTS 
L 
VOL. XVII. NO. 9,] 
ROCHESTER, N, Y.-FOR THE WEEK ENDING SATURDAY, MARCH 3, 1866, 
{WHOLE NO, 841. 
