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“PROGRESS AND IMPROVEMENT.” 
[SINGLE NO. TEN CENTS 
VOL. XVII. NO. 15.5 
ROCHESTER, N. Y.-FOR THE WEEK ENDING SATURDAY, APRIL 14, 1866. 
! WHOLE NO. 847. 
ESTABLISHED IN 1850. 
MOORE’S RURAL NEW-YORKER, 
* Ai l OBI0INAL wimr 
RURAL, LITERARY AND FAMILY NEWSPAPER. 
CONDUCTED BY D. D. T. MOORE, 
With a Corpa of Able AwblanU and Contributor*. 
HENRY 8. RANDALL, LL, D., 
Editor of the Department of Sheep Husbandry, 
HON. T. C. PETERS, 
Late Prea’t N. Y. State A*. 8oo*y. Southern Cor. Editor, 
pr Fob Teems and other particulars see last page. 
MlIOTWiMJL 
THE OAT CROP. 
Tub oat is the best grain for feeding Dorset. 
It 6trcngthcnB the muscles instead of producing 
fat. It is not heating. Hence, for working ani¬ 
mals, it is highly prized, and in BOme countries, , 
the meal, as common food, is extensively used 
by the laboring classes. It will keep well, not 
being liable, like Indian corn, to beat or become 
bitter from the rancidity of it6 oil. 
The oat crop is, likewise, valuable for soiling, 
especially for milch cows. It is fit for this pur¬ 
pose at a period of the summer when grass Is 
apt to be scant or at leant dried up. A dairy 
region is generally a good one for the oat crop, 
for it succeeds best in a cool, moist climate, and 
on somewhat heavy land. It affords a largo 
quantity of feed to the acre, and when designed 
to be used for Boiling, it should be sown at sev¬ 
eral periods, so as to have a succession of crops. 
When the crop is grown for the grain chiefly it 
Bhould invariably be cut early, before the Btraw 
is wholly ripened or the grain begins to fall from 
the head. Cut in this way and well cured the 
6traw is valuable for fodder. 
In our climate oats should be sown early; they 
can hardly be got into the ground to soon to re¬ 
ceive the benefit of the spriDg rains, and to grow 
during the cool weather which precedes mid¬ 
summer. The oat plant grows Blow previous to 
the period of shooting into head. Nutriment Is 
accumulated in the roots, whence it is sent into 
the stalk and head in the latter stages of its 
growth. y When the head begins to shoot its 
growth is extremely rapid, and if everything 
has been favorable up to thi6 period, there is lit¬ 
tle danger then of harm resulting from dry 
weather. Wet weather and ru6t are far more 
liable to injure the crop. 
Broadcast sowing, if the ground is sufficiently 
rongh to ensure good covering, Is equal to drill¬ 
ing. We believe, likewise, in rolltug. From 
three to four bushels of seed per acre are gene¬ 
rally used, aDd experience teaches that it is 
about the right quantity. It is impossible to 
say which of the several varieties is best, but It 
is generally considered profitable to change seed 
often, and it is advisable to procure it from a 
considerable distance, and from a different soil 
of land. The oat plant is a vigorous feeder, 
having a power similar to rank weeds of appro-' 
printing nutriment in the Boil. It sends its roots 
into the subsoil to a greater extent than barley, 
and it does not seem to be so favorable a crop as 
the latter, to immediately precede wheat. 
SPRING HARROWING OF WHEAT. 
Mr. William Cone of Troy, Mich., writes ns 
as follows on the above subject:—“In a late 
No. of the Rural yon request a communication 
on dragging wheat in the spring. Now, As it 
has been practised somewhat on the plains near 
me, and us I tried it on ten acres pretty thor¬ 
oughly some years since, I will state the result 
as far as I know, hoping some other correspond¬ 
ent who has had more experience will answer 
your inquiries more fully, I suppose from what 
information 1 am able to obtain, that farmers 
have had their eyes more on making clover grow 
by harrowing wheat in the spiring, than on bene¬ 
fiting their wheat, as I think it a sure prevention 
of young clover killing by drouth in the latter 
part of summer, as it w ill frequently on our dry, 
light land when not dragged; and as the farmers 
on such land depend mostly on their clover crop 
to keep them land fertile, the loss of such crop 
is a serious one. 
“ 1 had tried sowing clover with my wheat in 
the fall, sowing it with oats in the spring, sow¬ 
ing and rolling it on wheat in the sparing, and 
would lose my crop occasionally in either case. 
I then thought I would make a 6ure thing of the 
clover at any rate. I had a good growth of 
wheat on ground sandy and naturally rather 
light, dry soil. I sowed my clover seed, (about 
five quarlB to an acre,) Bowed about three pecks 
of plaster to the acre, then took a heavy, crotch- 
drag and harrowed it thoroughly one way; the 
drag tore up some of the wheat, but the result 
was much more satisfactory than I expected. 
Although a very dry season, yet I never saw a 
nicer, thicker set of clover, and the best crop of 
wheat out of thirteen crops that I have raised 
on the field in thirty-two years. I have noticed 
that farmers on the plains use a very wide 
Crotch-drag, with light and short teeth; my 
experiment was on wheat sown broadcast. I 
dou’t think it would injure drilled wheat, lor 
all the wheat I have known harrowed on the 
plains was drilled In, and I believe no one that 
has tried it is dissatisfied with the result. I 
think" I never heard of Its hurting a crop of 
wheat* but I would not go on to the field until 
the ground was well settled, I would rather 
have half less Beed sown when drugged in than 
double sown on in the usual way; I think the 
crop of clover would be thicker. I am well 
aware that a large amount of plaster sown in the 
spring might injure wheat by making it ripen 
later in season, yet it will make clover grow 
beautifully. A friend of mine who has farmed 
sandy land extensively, not only in this State 
but In Western New Y'ork, says that plaster 
sown on wheat early in the fall will make wheat 
ripen earlier—when Bown in spring, later. Is that 
so ? who can answer correctly on that point ? 
A few dayB in ripening wheat here will gave the 
crop in some seasons.” 
CLEAN THE CELLARS. 
We advise farmers and others to be particular 
and thorough in denning their cellars, sinks, &c., 
and in removing all filth end rubbish from the 
vicinity of their dwellings. We advise It as a 
cholera preventive, and, likewise, as a precau¬ 
tion against the approach of various forms of 
sickness to which we are particularly liable In 
the summer season. Do not wait until hot 
weather comes, and the foul smell of decayed 
vegetables In the cellar, render the work a ne¬ 
cessity, but purify your premises now. 
8oon as danger from freezing is over, all veg¬ 
etables keep better if removed to an upper room 
where the air Is dryer. After removing such 
from the cellar, and cleaning away the debris, it 
Is well to scrape off a little of the bottom, If it 
be of dirt, and take it away, and then scatter 
some quick litne, or other disinfectant, in vari¬ 
ous places. Don’t neglect to white-wash the 
walls and ceiling overhead. Then give the cel¬ 
lar a free airing when the weather Is warm and 
dry. Provide, also, for a free circulation of air 
throughout the entire season. We believe that 
farmers’ cellars can often justly be charged with 
producing mnch sickness, and the proper cleans¬ 
ing of them is a matter that cannot be safely 
neglected, during the coming season. Clean up 
the yards also, andj be watchful that there is no 
decaying vegetable matter in proximity to the 
dwelling. 
— —— 
AMONG THE STUMPS.-NO. III. 
IMPROVING A NEW BARM. 
Important it is, everywhere and always, to 
begin right. “A bad beginning makes a good 
ending” is one of those lies that have worked 
themselves Into circulation in spite of all sound 
principles in morals and philosophy. Half our 
brief lives are spent in mending mistakes and 
repairing the mischiefs that come from them. 
Whoever commences improvements on a new 
farm should thoughtfully consider the matter, 
take a comprehensive view of the whole thing, 
and carefully arrange and adjust all the parts, 
Some havefound out at last that when you build 
a bouse you should begin with a plan. What¬ 
ever you do, BEGIN with a. plan, and remember 
that your plan should be part and parcel of tee 
great plan. Whoever sets up an independency 
had beter abdicate before night. All our arrange¬ 
ments should be made in deference to funda¬ 
mental principles in taste, in philosophy, and in 
morals. This is no time or place for whims or 
caprice. We turn up here for a few clays, and 
the only thing that concerns us is that we do 
our duty. 
Beginning on a new farm, we are not to see 
how we can make it yield the most ready money, 
but how we can derive the most enjoyment from 
It for ourselves, our family, our friends, and the 
endless generations that shall follow. Bnildings, 
fences, orchards, roads, timber lots, &C-, &c., 
Bhould all be in their proper places, for it is a 
serious matter, and sometimes an impossibility 
to readjust them. How otter do we hear men 
6ay “ I wish I had put my house, my barns, or 
my orchard in some other place.” Fruit trees 
have a choice where they will grow, and in all 
things there is a right way, and a wrong way— 
a right place, and a wrong place. When we, as 
farmers, enlarge the circle of our thoughts, take 
more comprehensive views of human life, adopt 
more thorough systems of education, and mas¬ 
ter more general principles, we Bhall be better 
prepared to furnish abodes worthy our origin 
and our destiny. 
One of the flrst'mattcrs to be considered on a 
new farm is whereto locate the wood lob—where 
to save the timber, if there is timber, or where 
to plant it* if there Is none. A wood fire in an 
open fire-place, is a luxury worth all it costs to 
those who can afford it. At any rate the pre¬ 
servation and proper location of wood lots 
should receive far more attention than has hith¬ 
erto been bestowed. If concert of action could 
be secured among proprietors, belts of timber 
might be placed at suitable Intervals to afford 
protection from tbe wind; but lu default of that 
every farmer Bhould barricade his farm the best 
he can. A belt of timber well thickened'up 
with a young growth, forty ri ds wide, especially 
if bordered with evergreens, will make an effect¬ 
ive barrier, — adding greatly to the comfort of 
man and beast, protecting grain, grass and fruit, 
and bo adding very materially to tbe productive¬ 
ness of the farm. In many cases such a belt of 
timber would add more to the farm crops than 
if the land was all cleared up and tilled. The 
farm I am now improving will be almost entire¬ 
ly encircled with such a belt of timber. Trees 
are the grandest ornaments of earth, and should 
be saved or planted about the buildings, and not 
banished to the bye places of the farm, as 
though they were a disgrace, like burdocks and 
daisy. 
The location of the buildings is a matter to be 
profoundly studied. I wish there was a “ high¬ 
way law” to keep bouses and bams out of the road. 
Dust and noise, as the school girl Buys in her 
first composition about “ spring, is very delight¬ 
ful” — or else my beloved countrymen are anx¬ 
ious to pry into people’s business that pass the 
road; or else they wiBh to obtrude their own 
business upon the public; or else—1 do not 
know wbat. . You “build close to tbe road for 
convenience” yon say. Do you not go ont upon 
the farm twice where you travel the highway 
once? If youdon’t, I judge yon ought to. Now, 
if your house and bams were nearer the center 
of your farm you would save ti-nyel and have 
your manure where you want It. If, however, 
the highway happens to run near the center of 
your farm yon would build near the highway for 
convenience, but, that does not generally happen. 
A fine view is worth securing, but not at the 
expense of occupying a bleak, barren place — a 
valley is better than a bill-top if you can secure 
good drainage. 
Another thing to be insisted upon is tbe use 
of good materials for buildings, gates, posts, 
&e., and a discreet adaptation of all things to 
the uses they will be put ta. Do a good while 
without a thing, if necessary, but when jou do 
get It, get the right sort, If It does cost. I will 
mention One thing, however, that I advise you 
cot to delay building, (union- it U Sunday,) and 
that is a wood shed! If you bav’nt one, build 
it with rough boards, slabs or poles, if need be; 
at any rate don’t live another week without one, 
as I observe many of my neighbors are doing. 
—n. t. b. 
VARIOUS TOPICS DISCUSSED. 
Hop Culture. 
Mr, J. M. Weller of Wayne Co., N. Y., 
answers queries as follows: — “ Under the head 
of Communications in your issue of March 17th, 
I noticed inquires with regard to planting hops. 
I have had four year’s, experience in hop raising 
and think that 1 can toll how they should be 
planted. 
1st. How far apart shoqld the hills be planted ? 
Ans. Seven feet one way und eight thu other, 
without regard to cheapncth of land. 2d. I 
would not plant the corn rows near the rows of 
hops,-and would alternate the bills by leaving 
out tbe com where the hop roots are planted, 
ad. I would advise flat culture instead of hilling. 
4th. How many poles to a Jill? Two. 5th. 
ENGLISH PRIZE HEIFER, THREE TEARS AND THREE MONTHS OLD. 
ENGLISH PRIZE CATTLE. 
On this page we give portraits of two very 
fine fat animals, which have recently drawn 
prizes in England for superiority in their re¬ 
spective classes. 
The first is u heifer, which received the highest 
prize at the Smith field Club Show —an exhibi¬ 
tion which called together many of the best 
anlmala in England. She was bred by Earl 
Radnor, and is called " Octavia.” The portrait 
speaks for itself, and no further description is 
necessary. 
The other is a Scotch brindle, bred by the 
Duke of Sutherland, and exhibited and awarded 
the prize when five years and eight months old. 
This animal is descended from a race of High¬ 
land cattle which has been in the Duke's family 
two hundred years, und remarkably exemplifies 
what scientific breeding and its concomitants 
(such as care, feeding, &c,,) will do In and for 
the improvement of a naturally unpromising 
race or breed. 
Our illustrations simply show what can be 
done by careful breeding, with proper attention 
in management, feeding, etc. Of course the 
Earls and Dukes of England and Scotland can 
better afford extra attention than most Ameri¬ 
can farmers, to whom the glory of being 
ahead is not considered worth the expense,— 
yet some of our breeders find similar invest¬ 
ments profitable. 
\> 
SCOTCH HORN ED OX, FIVE TEARS AND EIGHT MONTHS OLD. 
How long should they be ? From 18 to 22 feet. 
6th. How many vines to a pole ? Two, 
I will give a little more advice than is asked 
or called lor, with regard to the roots and plant¬ 
ing. The roots or seed, Is lust years runners; 
they should he cut live or six inches long; three 
pieces to a hill; they should be cut so that the 
eyes, or buds, should be left on both ends of tbe 
roots. They should be planted about the same 
depth proper for potatoes, and should be dug 
early, before the buds on the roots start, put In 
a cellar and kept there until you are ready to 
plaut your corn. Throe bushels to the acre if 
the roots arc good, arc enough. 
Another correspondent from Wisconsin sends 
us the following on the same subjectB: —“ Plant 
seven feet apart each way. I make no hills, but 
set a 6mall stake 18 inches long to denote where 
the hill Is. I have always planted potatoes and 
think it much better than corn for hops the fiist 
seflson; plant the potatoes deep so as to avoid 
hilling as much as possible. I nee a small cul¬ 
tivator with three ahovcl teeth the first season. 
Flat culture is the best for tilts section. My 
land is sandy and we sometimes huvo drouths 
that lDjure the hops if hilled. Set only one pole 
to the hill the second season, unless it is a very 
strong hill; then I set two. Afterwards set 
two, and to the strong hills three—leaving only 
two vines to a polo. My poles are from 16 to 20 
feet long, but I think by observation, that poles 
from 12 to 16 feet are long enough. Cedar rails 
are best. 
The growing Is nothing to getting hops in 
good order for market. One-half, perhaps, of 
the hop crop does uot command over one-half 
price in market, for the want of proper drying- 
houses and machinery for packing aud proper 
care in picking. Any neglect on the part of the 
hop grower in any of these things must result 
In loss.” 
Mr. G. P. Rockwell, Madison Co., N. Y., 
writes ns on this topic, that tbe hills should be 
Seven feet apart each way, unless set diamond¬ 
ing which, he considers tbe better way. There 
should be one male hill in every seventy-live. 
Potatoes are better than corn to cultivate the 
first season, and flat culture is preferable. Never 
more than two poles should be sot to one hill, 
and cure should be taken that the vines put up 
Lave good heads, not affected by insects. We 
advise beginners in hop-cnlturo to procure the 
essays of practical hop growers, published in 
book form. 
We have several other communications on the 
subject of hop culture, from practical men. 
Straight Rail Fence. 
S. P. Mills writes us that be has built the 
kind of fence illustrated and described in the 
Rural recently, and suggests that instead of 
using a stone or block of wood to set the stake 
on, it is better to drive an iron spike into the 
post at tbe bottom to support the rails. Also, 
to raise a ridge of earth aloag the line of fence, 
which will save using one rail. 
