The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
C89 
The Home Dressmaker 
The Season’s Tendencies. —The re¬ 
cent fashion show in New York presented 
among the season’s tendencies long 
sleeves; narrow tailored skirts; sweeping 
draperies; skirts above the ankle, hut not 
as short as they have been; long waist 
line; side panels or trains longer than the 
skirts; sport suits with knickerbockers 
and capes; evening dresses with sweeping 
sleeves that reached the ground when the 
arms were stretched straight out. The 
new color especially prominent at this 
exhibition was a clear yellow, known as 
gold, saffron or dent de lion, and the 
color was displayed in dresses, trimmings 
and millinery. 
A Little Girl’s Gingham. —In the 
first illustration, the child’s dress at the 
left shows a combination of red and ‘white 
A Juvenile Gingham and White Linen 
Trimmed with Pink 
check gingham with white French per¬ 
cale. The plain long waist was of the 
percale, which is smooth and glossy, and 
this was trimmed around neck, sleeves 
and lower edge with squares of the ging¬ 
ham, put on diamond-wise. The plain 
full skirt was gathered to the waist. This 
was a simple little frock, but very pretty, 
and the use of these applied diamonds as 
trimming is quite popular now in making 
up gingham. We have noted some girls’ 
dresses of check gingham where the ap¬ 
plied diamonds were put on the gingham 
itself; they being on the bias, showed 
well on the straight way of the goods. 
They were then outlined with a chain- 
stitch of black wool. A window full of 
girls’ dresses of red and white gingham 
and sateen showed many of them trimmed 
with black wool in crosstitch, chainstitch 
and Kensington stitch. Many of them 
had fuzzy black rosettes of the wool used 
as a finish to the trimming. These red 
and white materials are always pretty 
for children and young girls, and can be 
relied upon to launder well. 
Pink and White Linen. —The figure 
at the right shows a one-piece gown of 
white linen trimmed with pink linen and 
white pearl buttons. The dress is abso¬ 
lutely plain, and had bands of rose-col¬ 
ored linen extending from neck to hem 
in both front and back. Flat pearl but¬ 
tons were put along the edge close to¬ 
gether all the way down, so that half the 
button was on the pink material, giving 
the effect of a white pattern. The sleeves 
were finished in the same way. It used 
an infinite number of buttons, but there 
seems no limit to the profusion of buttons 
now used. Quite a simple serge gown 
trimmed with nickel buttons called for 
10 dozen, and some dresses have a solid 
trimming of buttons that clank like chain 
armor, and must weight down the wearer. 
The hat in this picture is a poke shape 
of white chip trimmed with black cir6 
ribbon. 
The Prevalent Cate. —In the second 
picture, the figure at the left shows a 
dress of the sport type with cape to 
match. The material of skirt and cape 
was a gray silk knit fabric, while the 
blouse was of henna Georgette. The skirt 
was plain, with slanting slit pockets. 
The short cape, which was lined with 
henna, hr-id armholes faced with silk 
braid, while the collar was a combination 
of silver and henna braid and embroid¬ 
ery. The plain blouse had a deep girdle 
of the embroidery. It will be noted that 
the skirt is quite narrow, which is char¬ 
acteristic of the new sport skirts. Capes 
of the style illustrated appear with some 
one-piece dresses, forming a suit, with 
separate skirts, and as individual wraps. 
Among dresses for Southern wear one of¬ 
ten sees a white dress trimmed with dark 
blue, with a dark blue cape. Some of 
the capes are circular, and some gathered 
t<> a round yoke. Some woolen capes are 
fringed, like the skirts. Separate capes 
are popular in tweed and homespun. The 
hat figured is a little sport, mode! in 
stitched henna silk with a bow of waxed 
ribbon. 
Rose-colored Canton Crepe. — The 
dress in the center is rose-colored Canton 
crepe, trimmed with gray crepe and 
gray and rose embroidery. It will 
be noted rlmt the skirt is cut up in 
a little square at the bottom of the front, 
where it is faced with gray crepe. The 
slanting pockets are also faced and bound 
with the gray material, and finished with 
a little patch of Chinese embroidery, in 
gray, silver and shades of rose. The 
flowing sleeves were faced and bound with 
gray, and had a hand of the gray crepe 
let in near the edge. The long oval open¬ 
ing at the front of the waist had a panel 
of gray underneath, the same material 
binding the opening-and the round neck. 
Some little motifs of embroidery in gray, 
silver and shaded rose finished "the front. 
We see many dresses of this type in the 
new fancy silks, especially in jade green, 
or in white with jade green lining and 
trimming. The hat pictured is rose corded 
silk with a brim faced with white straw 
and trimmed with a black wreath. 
A Sleeveless Coat. —At the right is 
a suit consisting of a skirt with sleeve¬ 
less box coat. The material was dark 
blue twill. The narrow skirt was gathered 
at the top, and was without trimming. 
The coat was a plain box model with a 
high military collar, and was open all 
down the front. It was bound all ’round 
with black and White silk braid, the arm¬ 
holes being left without binding. I’nder 
this was worn a blouse of crepe de chine, 
of the new saffron or dent do lion yellow, 
the fall bishop sloevs bring gathered 
into cuffs of the twill, bordered with 
black and white braid. The underblouse 
had a round neck, not very low. and 
showed a few small buttons in the front. 
Such a costume would be very pret'y and 
cool in French gray with a white under- 
blouse, and it would be an admirable 
model for ramie linen. The hat was a 
sports shape in soft black and white 
straw. We do not espen&'lv admire the 
white shoes with a saddle of dark brown 
le uVur. but this stv.e is ver*- fashionable 
just now. and they have the newest merit 
of being sensible in cut. 
Notes and Novelties. —Domino crepes 
are woven so as to show satiny Hues and 
squares in the same color, Moir£ crepes 
are among the newest silks. 
Some of the imported knitted frocks 
look just like grandmother’s knitted pet- 
tic,.at with a plain waist t> match. 
Fringed woolen sports skirts are now 
shown in heavy rug weaves, usually bril¬ 
liant plaids and stripes. Capes appear 
in great variety for sport and street, wear. 
Knickerbocker suits of tweed or jersey 
cloth are offered for girls of six to 12 
years. They consist of a slip-on coat 
dress, which is merely a long blouse not 
quite reaching the knees, and the knicker¬ 
bockers. which are finished with fitted 
tailored cuffs. The plain blouse laces at 
the throat, and has a narrow belt and 
oekets. These suits in tweed were 
17.50; in jersey cloth $13.50. Separate 
knickerbockers in gray or green tweed 
were $6.50; in brown corduroy $5.50. 
Some smart new blouses are of polka- 
dotted foulard, navy with white dots, fin¬ 
ished with cuff’s and a small round vest 
of white organdie. Tailored sport blouses 
are made of a soft new fabric introduced 
as Scotch broadcloth, especially for wear 
with tweed suits. 
Scurf sports skirts are new; a charac¬ 
teristic model is Scotch homespun bor¬ 
dered with wide bands of the same color 
in a deeper tone, fringed at the hern. 
Others are of cashmere with a narrow 
fringe at the bottom. Some expensive 
new sports skirts look strikingly like the 
old-fashioned flannel petticoats that were 
woven with a border, while the fringed 
hem suggests the use of grandmother’s 
shawl. However, such skirts are hard- 
some in color and design—also expensive. 
White huts include some of crepe-knit, 
with borders or trimmings of angora 
wool. One of this type was trimmed with 
brown wool, having a fringed ornament 
at the side, and was accompanied by a 
white muffler finished with brown stripes 
and fringe. 
pAJLBRANSEN 
vJ % Player-Piano 
They’re still talking about the 
Gulbransen and me” 
white House 
Suburban 
Model 
. • - eujijti etuuci 
*700 600 $ 495 
Go Into your dealer’s store. Play a 
Gulbransen. Make the three tests 
shown below. You'll realize the pleas¬ 
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further than that—you’ll understand 
■why the Gulbransen encourages the 
i nterest of children in good music, and 
music study. 
“Some friend9 came over the other night— 
all music critics. They were expectant—they 
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"I played Grieg's ’To Spring'. It’s rather 
difficult, you'll admit. 
•'Everyone listened attentively until I finished 
—and then what applause! 
“I—who, until a week before, had been 
denied the pleasure of playing—holding the in¬ 
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I was proud of my accomplishment — / was a 
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“And here’s a little secret: I could never have 
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Foursimple rolls—and the right player-piano— 
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Gulbransen-Dickinson Company 
Chicago, Illinois 
The Gulbransen Instruction Rolls show you 
how to play well long before you could learn 
scales by hand — but remember: only on the 
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Instruction Rolls. 
The Pedal Touch (achieved through Gul¬ 
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is, when you make the three tests shown above. 
I “New Book of Gulbransen Music” Free^ 
on Request. Check Coupon 
. r~ I Check here if you do not own any piano or 
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Write name and address in margin and mail 
b 
Write name and address in margin 
this to Gulbransen-Dickinson Co.,321 
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