March 4, 1922 
; vl'Sfll^K Get Low Prices 
j;;;;: ; ;1||||| on Berry Boxes 
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from the largest Berry Box am* No ,n III ml/Pi 
Basket Factory inthe Country. , 
New Albany Box A Basket Co.. Box 111 New Albany.In^, 
The Simple Art of Budding 
Can you tell me why I have no success 
budding fruit trees? I can do pretty 
well at grafting, but am a complete failure 
at budding. I have all kinds of books 
from the. Government and from different 
State experiment stations on this subject, 
showing numerous illustrations in each. 
I am very successful with all kinds of 
fruit and crops, and am a very careful 
person when doing anything to have it 
just right, am rather a crank on fruit 
raising, aud yet when it comes to budding 
I just simply cannot, get one to grow. 
Why? T particularly want to bud about 
50 peach trees this season. A friend of 
mine once top-worked a cherry tree 7 ft. 
high, forgot to bring Ms knife, used his 
thumbnail instead, put seven buds in and 
six grew, but he was born and raised in 
a nursery. f. w. 
Bristol. Pa. 
As F. W. suggests, some growers do 
not seem to “get the hang” of budding. 
But the writer has found that “practice 
makes perfect.” and a clumsy start may 
be overcome by perseverance, and real 
satisfaction results. With the first sea¬ 
son’s budding we had 50 per cent alive, 
while the second and third seasons twice 
as many trees were budded, with an ever- 
increasing l’atio of living buds. There 
are many factors entering into the process 
of budding, and any one of the little ones 
may be the deciding factor as to whether 
the budding is successful or not. In the 
first place, budding is placing the living 
part, or cambium, of one plant against 
the living part of another plant with the 
intention that it should unite. We see 
results of this naturally, when trees grow 
together in the woods, the trees rubbing 
together, the bark being worn through, 
so the living parts touch and grow to¬ 
gether. 
Some fruits are harder to bud than 
others. Teaches are easiest, then apples, 
pears, cherries aud finally, the quince. 
You will notice in this list the tree with 
the most sap or most succulent bark comes 
first, and' the one with the least sap and 
driest bark is last. The ease of budding 
is proportional to the amount of sap; that 
is, the ease of "peeling.” By peeling we 
mean the ease with which the bark can 
be turned back from the wood. For a 
beginner, therefore, the peach is the 
easiest on which to practice. The buds 
seem to live through better in the same 
ratio, so one should have the best success 
budding on the peach and the least with 
the quince. 
The stock, that is. the part one buds on, 
may be purchased from nurserymen as 
seedlings or may be grown from seed of 
either wild or cultivated fruit. Scions, 
the portion of the tree used to secure the 
bud. arc used the same season they are 
grown. We cannot commence budding 
until the wood has "ripened.” You will 
see that this is different from grafting. 
If we graft this next Spring, we used 
last year’s growth of wood, but if we wait 
until June and July to bud, we use the 
new wood produced from the buds which 
live over Winter. These buds grow into 
twigs bearing buds, and these latter are 
used in the operation of bqdd'iug. 
There are two definite requirements; 
the budding cannot be started until the 
bark peels on the stock, and until the 
scion has ripened, If it were not for this 
latter requirement, we might start bud¬ 
ding a month or more earlier,-as the bark- 
peels when the sap begins flowing. Bud¬ 
ding too parly, that is, when the scion 
wood is green, always results in failure. 
How can one tell? Experience. In this 
section the wood has ripened by June 20, 
One can readily tell after a season’s trial. 
Try a few buds starting the first of .Tunc 
and budding a few every three days. On 
examination one can readily tell the ones 
that were taken too green .and a definite 
date can be set for beginning the next 
season. Scions should not be cut until 
immediately preceding the budding. The 
scions are wrapped with damp paper or 
burlap, and only removed when ready for 
use. When any scions are left over at 
night in the nurseries, they are placed 
in damp moss in a large box to keep them 
from drying out. Scion® may be kept a 
week, but as soon as the bark begins to 
shrivel it. is good policy to discard them 
and cut new ones. 
When cutting buds from the scion as 
little wood as possible should be left on 
the bud. We have always had the best 
success when ail the wood was removed, 
leaving only the bud and surrounding 
bark. After making a T cut, 2 in. above 
the ground, with seedlings and in the 
('Continued on Page 322) 
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COLUMN 3 
COLFMN 1 
column 2 
BI'SITEIj basket 
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500 Plants, 7.50 
1.000 Plants 15.00 
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CALL’S NURSERIES - Perry, Ohio 
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THE BEAUTIFUL GLADIOLUS 
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The Million Dollar STRAWBERRY 
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By exports. Ottlcial Journal. »3yr. Copy 
20 c. AMERICAN NUT JOURNAL, Rsakaitar, N. T. 
