The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
699 
vantage than the nurseryman can. So I 
want (<> start with a short single stem 
ami make the head as I want it. As for 
the mot, you must have good judgment 
in shaping it. With these trees with 
roots much larger than the stem. T cut 
them off at from 4 to 5 in. out. Thus 
the tree will go into a hole about as wide 
ns an ordinary spade. n. w. c. 
(To be continued.) 
Quick-growing Vine for Screen 
Would you suggest a quick-growing 
vine to form a screen around my bee¬ 
hives? E.)«. 
Long Island. 
If a permanent perennial is desired, 
kurissu, Dutchman’s pipe, matrimony vine, 
Hall’s Japan honeysuckle or Clematis 
panieulnta would be hardy, free-growing 
and attractive. The three first named 
are coarser In growth than the honey¬ 
suckle and Clematis, but suitable for 
such a screen, and the pretty purple 
flowers of the kudzn would attract the 
bees. The Dutchman’s pipe makes a 
close mass of handsome light green 
leaves, the flowers being inconspicuous. 
Matrimony vine is very free in growth, 
and late in the season it shows a profu¬ 
sion of scarlet fruit. The Clematis often 
dies down to the root in Winter, hut is a 
rapid grower, producing a profusion of 
fragrant white (lowers in August and 
September. Hall’s honeysuckle is vigor¬ 
ous. hardy and free blooming. 
If an annual vine is required for Sum¬ 
mer use, the Scarlet Runner bean would 
be desirable for such a location as it 
grows vigorously, bears a profusion of 
excellent pods, and the brilliant scarlet 
flowers arc very a!tractive. 
Phlox and Chrysanthemum Troubles 
1. My white hardy Phlox that grows f! 
ft. each season has a white mold on the 
under side of the leaves, starting at the 
bottom. The leaves die. What, is it. and 
what must I do? Will sulphur injure 
the foliage of hardy plants? 2. Some 
of my Chrysanthemums have a blight 
that defoliates them. Can you tell me 
what to do lo remedy that? j. H. j. 
ltoxborough. Pa. 
1. Tile trouble with the Phlox is no 
doubt powdery mildew, which is often 
very troublesome. Dust with dry sul¬ 
phur, blowing with a powder gun against 
the under side of the leaves when wet 
with dew or rain, or spray with liver of 
sulphur, one ounce in two gallons of 
wafer. 
2. There are several diseases affecting 
Chrysanthemum foliage. It is quite pos¬ 
sible that your trouble is the fungus 
called black spot, which if unchecked will 
destroy the foliage. It is controlled by 
spraying with Bordeaux mixture, to 
which soap (preferably a bard white 
soap) is added, to make it stick. Pre¬ 
pared Bordeaux may be purchased in 
small quantities, with directions for dilu¬ 
tion. There is a blight also attacking 
Chrysanthemums which causes the loss 
of leaves; this is also treated with Bor¬ 
deaux mixture. It will be wise to give 
several sprayings during the season, be¬ 
ginning before the trouble has declared 
itself. Also, clear up all dead leaves and 
other remnants, burning them. Do not 
let dead leaves resulting from disease 
lie around in the garden; they should 
always be burned. Clear everything up 
in the Fall. Many garden troubles are 
avoided by persistent neatness. 
Painting Wounds on Fruit Trees 
1. Can you give me a good formula 
containing ingredients that are easy to 
obtain, for painting wounds in fruit trees 
after pruning: something that is not in¬ 
jurious to live wood? Also, what, is good 
to paint the trunks of trees white; some¬ 
thing that will not easily wash off and 
will be more or less permanent? White¬ 
wash would not be suited for this work, 
would it? On the other hand is the un¬ 
pleasant work of making it. 2. Can a 
lawn be seeded in the Fall? Our lawn 
seems to be played out in some spots; a 
peculiar sort of weed has run it out, so 
in order to get a new start on these spots 
it would need to be spaded up. Can this 
be done, also seeded iu the Fall? Would 
it be a good plan to go over the lawn 
with a spike-tooth harrow, then sow the 
seed, following up with a hand roller 
after the seed had been sown, and then 
cover tin' ground with horse manure? 
Berrien Springs, Mich. p. M. 
1. We use a combination of white lead 
and linseed oil on all cuts over 3 in. in 
diameter. This is applied as soon as the 
wound dries. Lampblack is added to 
make the spots less conspicuous. Where 
very large limbs are removed, annual 
painting may tie accessary. Whitewash 
on tree trunks was supposed to aid in 
destroying the peach tree borer, but this 
theory has been disproven. Such paint¬ 
ing is for appearance, and whitewash is 
generally Used. 
2. We often seed lawns in this section 
in late Summer and early Fall, sowing 
r.vo with the grass seed as a nurse crop. 
The rye dies over Winter and the lawn 
makes a fine appearance the following 
Spring. t. it. t. 
Com ECTORS of malapropiana might add 
to their holdings the story of the colored 
porter who was asked if lie bad voted at 
the club meeting. “Ycssah," he replied. 
“Ah wasn't at do meet in' mahself. but All 
voted by peroxide.”—Boston Transcript. 
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dusting potatoes 
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Dosch Copper Lime Arsenic Dust 
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When, on the leaf, this Dust 
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poisoned Bordeaux mixture re¬ 
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place on the plant, while with 
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BLIGHTS. The Copper in Dosch 
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The Dosch Chemical Company builds a 
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The Research Department of this com¬ 
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m 
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Write for “Dusting and Spraying the Potato” by George Sanders, and 
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Lighting Plants, 
In writing, give items in which you are interested. 
AGEN S WANTED for our Lincoln Automobile Bsttcrlos and 
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Established l»07 
THE FOUNDATION 
OF GOOD CROPS 
"As ye sow”—Solvay Pulverized Limestone— “so shall 
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Keep posted on lime and its u* 
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THE SOLVAY PROCESS CO. 
SOI Milton Ave. Syracuse, N. Y. 
?£ulVERI2e5T 
LIMESTONE 
sssHai 
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Farm Ditchers and Graders 1 
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■« 334 Owensooro, Ky. J 
111 1111 M 11111111111 IIII 1111 II 111 II 1111111111111 | f M 
Henley’s Twentieth Century 
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This 800-page 
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PAINTS, GLUES, CEMENTS, TANNING, 
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Valuable for reference. Price postpaid $4 
For Sale by RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 WEST 30Lh STREET. NEW YORK CITY 
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