The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
947 
The Home Dressmaker 
Prevailing Styles. —During August 
wo soo both exaggerated Summer fash¬ 
ions and hints of the coining Fall models. 
The exaggerated models show low necks 
and little or no sleeves, and many still 
have short skirts, but the newer styles 
are much longer in the skirt, and usually 
with long, full sleeves. The irregular hem 
is still in favor, and is obtained by vari¬ 
ous forms of Hying panels and draperies. 
Many dresses have pleated panels falling 
loose from the shoulder to below the hem. 
These floating draperies of thin materials 
have an airy look that is especially at¬ 
tractive during the hot clays. 
A Pretty Sports Dress. —Iu the first 
picture the figure at the left shows a 
tailored skirt of figured cretonne, with 
an ovorblouse of dropstiteh knitted silk 
fabric. The cretonne had a tan back¬ 
ground with rose and blue flowers; the 
overbloiise was of solid tan. The blouse 
had kimono sleeves, and a neck opening 
with a rolled collar. The back and sides 
were slightly bloused into a plain belt, 
which buttoned at each side of the front, 
giving room enough to slip it on over the 
head. We see overblouses of this plain 
type much used in place of sweaters; in 
fact, the overlflouse, plain or elaborate, is 
a very popular garment. Some of the 
sports type are made of pongee or van- 
on- weaves of sports silk, while we see 
crepe, chiffon and other thin silk beaded 
<>r embroidered. A rather long ovorblouse 
with a peplum. the whole handsomely 
trimmed, worn over a silk slip of the 
same color, makes a handsome costume 
at small expense. The cretonne skirt is 
ver> popular for sport or country wear, 
and we also see si-eveless dresses of cre¬ 
tonne worn over white blouses, or one- 
piece dresses having the waist of white 
or unbleached cotton, with cretonne skirt 
and trimmings. These are pretty when 
nice materials are used, hut with a poor 
quality of cotton and cretonne, one wash¬ 
ing makes them look shabby. Good qual¬ 
ity should be obtained for the cretonne 
skirt, and there are plenty of pretty pat¬ 
terns to select from . The hat shown is 
tan-colored felt, with a darker ribbon 
bow. Such hats are popular for sport 
and travel, and cost about $7.50. as a 
rule, 
A 1 *hetty Gingham. — The gingham 
dress shown at the right was lavender 
and white check. It was simply made, 
but the style was much prettier than the 
straight “chemise" dress. There was a 
panel all the way trom neck to horn in 
front and back. The side nieces of the 
waist came down over the hips, where the 
bottom was turned np to form a pocket. 
Side pieces of the skirt were gathered to 
this and finished with a bias band. Bias 
bands extended from neck to hem on each 
side of the center panel. The white linen 
collar and cull's were finished with laven¬ 
der stitching. This could he made with 
kimono sleeves if desired, as it would be 
quite easy to cut the sleeves and side 
piece from any kimono blouse pattern, in¬ 
serting the central panel in front and 
hack. This dress would be very desirable 
for it plttmo figure, as the panel front 
and back gives long lines, and the gath¬ 
ered side piece gives more width to the 
skirt. The very plain, straight, one-piece 
dresses, with no gathers or pleats, such 
its were especially in vogue last Summer, 
were always unbecoming to plump wear¬ 
er-. and we still see tnnriv with the same 
defect. The little hat displayed by this 
wearer was lavender crepe do chine, with 
a flat spray of darker lavender hackle 
feathers at one side. 
Orange Cotton Greek.— In the second 
picture, the model at the left shows a cos¬ 
tume of orange cotton crepe decorated 
with wool peasant embroidery in mid¬ 
night blue, dark red and black. The dress 
itself was the usual phiin. long-waisted 
blouse and gathered skirt. The long, 
gathered peasant sleeves were sot into 
the shoulder with regular seams, the 
round neck being gathered in. \ band of 
the colored embroidery stood up all 
around the neck and passed down the 
closing at one side. Ttussbin style con¬ 
tinuing to extend down the skirt to the 
hem. the band on waist and skirt being 
a little wider than around the neck. On 
the upper part of each sleeve was a large, 
square block of the embroidery, framed 
in a line of black, and there was a simi¬ 
lar block of the embroidery, Uke a pocket, 
on the right side of the skirt. This was 
a very charming dress, with a great deal 
of style, but it was extremely simple, 
and the materials were inexpensive. This 
peasant embroidery includes very simple 
stitches, largely satin stitch, and button¬ 
hole stitch, and, being done in wool, it 
goes very fast. Another charming dress 
of this type was pigeon gray French voile, 
embroidered iu old rose and old blue, with 
a touch of black. 
Blouse and Knickers. —The small 
girl in the center wears a little French 
dress—though perhaps an old-fashioned 
woman would complain that it is not a 
dress at all. The foundation is a short- 
sleeved waist, with attached knickers, 
closely drawn in at the knee, of black 
sateen. Over this was a perfectly straight, 
sleeveless blouse of yellow sateen cut up 
at. the side .seams like a shirt, and bound 
all around with the black sateen. A 
little opening at the front of the neck, to 
give room to slip the blouse over the head, 
was tied with a fold of the black sateen. 
The armholes had very little curve, so 
that the blouse looked perfectly flat. The 
little girl who wore this costume was 
strolling down Fifth avenue with her 
'fashionably dressed mother, looking very 
comfortable and happy. We also see such 
costumes having rhe colored foundation 
and black sateen overblouse. Certainly 
the modern child is not hampered by 
clothes in an effort to he stylish. 
Figured Crepe he Chine. —The dress 
shown ar the right was a very attractive 
printed crepe de chine, black figure on a 
white ground. The plain waist with ki¬ 
mono sleeves, and the plain skirt, were 
seamed together at the low waist line, 
with an elastic underneath to allow room 
for slipping on. The skirt was finished 
with pleated panels, one at each side in 
both front and back. The bell sleeves, 
slashed up at the back, and the wide, oval 
neck, were bound with grosgrain ribbon. 
A pleated tucker of fine white mull filled 
in the neck, and there were full under- 
sleeves of the mull, gathered into 
a narrow wrist-band. A narrow girdle 
of grosgrain ribbon passed around 
the waist. This dress had a look of 
dignity that made it very suitable for 
it matron of rather full figure. Many of 
the prevailing modes are only suited to 
slim young girls, but the high-class shops 
still carry designs suitable for older 
women. This would be equally attractive 
in a silk with black ground and white 
figure, but the white ground with black 
figure is always quite dressy. It will be 
noted that all the new dresses have skirts 
nearly, if not quite, to the ankle. TVc 
all feel very awkward in them at first. 
but this fashion has certainly returned, 
and only the more informal skirts are 
short. Oft-repeated experience shows us 
that as soon as any fashion becomes so 
exaggerated as to exercise the reformers, 
and Cause talk of repressive measures, it 
drops out of sight and becomes out of 
date. 
Notes and Novelties. —Silk matelassfi 
is a new material for dresses and wraps. 
It is like the old-fashioned material of 
years ago, but lighter in weight. One 
gown seen was of taupe mat *lass£. en¬ 
tirely without trimming, long-waisted and 
long in tiic skirt, which was draped over 
one hip. 
In the midsummer sales of readymade 
silk dresses one finds that the hem must 
he let down, unless the wearer is very 
short. \\ lo-re such a dress has neck anil 
sleeves bound with white or colored silk, 
one can let down the hem the* full length, 
and hind the edge with silk to match 
Such binding is often used, and gives a 
pretty effect. 
Tit ere is a new make of sewing silk 
made especially for band sewing. It has 
a little kink in the twist, and is said never 
to cut and twist in the eye of the needle, 
as ordinary sewing silk does. 
Printed crepe de chine and printed 
Georgette are favored in Summer dresses, 
also for the new. long blouses, and as 
linings for capes. 
Among fashionable linens we noted 
dotted grass linen of unusual beauty— 
sheer grass linen in natural tint, with 
coin dots embroidered in various colors. 
It was $2 a yard. Striped and pin- 
dotted linen, soft colors on white, was 
$1.(55 for handkerchief weave, $1.35 for 
the heavier French finish. 
"Who Is My Neighbor?” 
After reading the statement of "Reader” 
and M. B. D.'s answer and .comments, 
page 821, I was moved to give a few of 
the many court decisions on this subject. 
“Reader" is entirely iu the right in this 
matter, and the wrongs complained of 
conic under the head of nuisances. 
"A distillery, with styes, in which large 
quantities of hogs are kept, the offal from 
which renders the waters from a creek 
unwholesome, and the vapors from which 
renders a dwelling uninhabitable, is a 
nuisance.” Smith v. McConathv, 11 Misc. 
517. So it is a nuisance to throw, from 
day to day, into water used for the daily 
purposes of life, any substance that ren¬ 
ders it less pure, and excites disgust in 
those who use it. 
So the owner of land through which a 
stream passes, has no right to make such 
use of it as to send water down to the 
owner poisoned or corrupted. Mayor v. 
Chadwick. The owner of a paper mill 
on a creek was held entitled to an in¬ 
junction against the pollution of a stream 
by the operation of a mill manufacturing 
black woolen doth higher up the stream, 
such pollution constituting a nuisance. 
Weeks Thorn Paper Co. v. Glenside 
Woolen Mills, 11 s X. Y. Supp, 1027 
Xor can the right to pollute a stream 
be acquired by prescription. Ib. Any per¬ 
son who is interested in the use and en¬ 
joyment of the water of a stream running, 
is entitled to maintain an action for any 
special injury which he may sustain front 
the corruption of water by any other 
person, directly <-r indirectly, whatever 
may be the cause, the pretense or the oc¬ 
casion. Carharth v. Auburn Gas Light 
Co.. 22 Barb. 307. 312. 
This last case cited, the plaintiff was 
a carpet manufacturer, whose cloth was 
injured by substances getting into the 
river from the gas works above him. 
The defense set up that the ground was 
mieornpaet and porous and the substances 
complained of percolated through the 
ground to the river, to the injury of plain¬ 
tiff'. Held no defense. 
So the erection of a cesspool so near 
a well as to contaminate the water therein 
is actionable. Norton v. Scheie field. 
Bees so dose to the highway as to 
make it unsafe to persons nr stock hav¬ 
ing a right to use the road, would be a 
nuisance or an obstruction which the 
town superintendent could order re¬ 
moved in five days after notice. If those 
bees should cause a runaway, thereby 
injuring person or property, the owner 
would pay dearly for it. 
A few comments on this letter may 
help some, and especially in regard to 
M. B. D.'s questions. "Reader’s” board 
of health followed the law of parsimony. 
f.cx t alio nix is the most effective remedy 
next to a good beating. These things will 
stop just as soon as these aggressors are 
taught that two can play the game, and 
that “it don’t pay" I have been the 
victim of this sort of thing so loug that 
I retaliate quickly, ami if the aggressor 
doesn’t like it. he can go to tartaroo ami 
stay there. In running through the 
musty past M. B. D. might have dug 
up a code that says an eye for an eye, and 
a tooth for a tooth. When a mean man 
learns that his neighbor is not a molly¬ 
coddle. and will exact the last full meas¬ 
ure for injuries done, he will stop. 
D. P, BARRY. 
They may stop for a time, hut it's only 
an "armistice"—waiting for another 
chance. Mr, Barry evidently does not 
believe much iu the power of “a Soft an¬ 
swer." lie may be large enough to whip 
his neighbor, but suppose the neighbor 
were younger and stronger. In many of 
these cases of meanness the victim is a 
woman trying to run a farm successfully. 
The point of Che article in question was 
that neighborhood ijoarrels should always 
be a voided, if possible. We would stand 
much injustice rather than provoke a 
Quarrel. If. as is sometimes the case, the 
other party regarded this as evidence of 
fear, and continued his meanness, wv 
should conclude that his conscience and 
sense of decency were made of sole 
leather, and we should get at him through 
some more vulnerable point—his pocket 
or his hide. 
Stop, Look and Listen 
Natural Yarn Cotton Socks. Not dyed or 
bleached. Just as they come from the 
machines. Real comfort for 
tender, swolleu or blistered 
feet. Give twice the wear of 
dyed stockings. Send 20 cents 
for single pail ; 95 ten's for half 
dozen; or $1.80 per dozen. Size* 
914-1114 Prices west, of the Mis¬ 
sissippi River. $1.00 for hair 
dozen or $1.90 per dozen. State 
size of shoe. 
Natural Yarn 
Hosiery Mills 
Fleetwood Fenna U.S.A. 
COFFEE! 
You ought to drink 
only the best! 
Unripe, damaged fruit doe* not 
agree with you ; neither, does 
unripe, damaged coffee. 
*‘M\ OWN ' coffee is a wonder¬ 
ful qua.ity of whole, sound, 
large berries. It is roasted fresh. 
It will agree with yon 
DRINK ALL YOU WANT! 
Rend $3.00 (check, money order or cash! for 
10 lbs. prepaid. 
ALICE FOOTE MACDOUGALL 
73 Front Street - - New York. N. Y. 
If you don't know my coftee 1 will rend you 3-lb. 
to try for SI.00. All my coffee sold on money 
back guarantee. 
Save Fruit—Make Money 
with the l\ S. r ook Stove Drier Can 
be used on Cook or Gas Stove. Dries 
all fruits and vegetables. Thousands 
in use. Endorsed by Agii. Dept. V. s. 
Gov. 8 u 11« f n e 11 o n Gnu run teed. 
Directions free. Price J5.3U and post¬ 
age. Write for full description and 
price delivered to you. tfeni* «*ni*d. 
AMERICAN EVAPORATOR < o. 
Box J-K \Vttyoesboro, Pa. 
Rarrelq °E SLIGHTLY 1LVM ACEIi CROCKERY 
Ddllwlo Hulel l-liin&n>rp, i'Dvklnririirf, iliimiuauinure, etc. 
shipped direct from factory to consumer. Write us 
for particulars. E. SWflSEI & CO., Portland. Maine 
PATCHES for Patchwork KC 
hold package. Calicoes. Percales. Ginghams, etc other 
bargains. TEXTILE STORES. Boi 10U, TiImviII*. Conn. 
11111111111 ii 11111 111111111111111111111111111111 nti 
Is there a single book in the public 
library in your town which gives an ac¬ 
curate picture of farm life or an interest¬ 
ing story of real farm people? 
Many city people form their opinion of 
farmers and farm life from the books they 
read. Therefore, there ought, to be at 
least one good book picturing real farm 
life, with its mixture of bright and dark 
sides, iu every town or grange library. 
"Hope Farm Notes" is a well-printed 
224-page book, containing 25 interesting 
stories of farm life and country people. 
Many consider it the best bouk of country 
life which Las ever been published. 
Ask for this book at your library, and 
if it isn’t there tell them they ought to 
have it Yon will enjoy the book your¬ 
self. aud it will give those not familiar 
with farm life a better understanding of 
real country people. 
Many people are making a present of 
this book to city friends or to their town, 
grange or school library, and it is always 
considered a welcome aift. 
The price is only $1.50. postpaid. Just 
fill out the coupon below and mail with 
a check or money order. 
RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
333 West 30th St.. New York. 
Gentlemen.—Enclosed find $1.50, for which 
mail me a cloth-bound copy of Hope Farm Notes. 
Name . 
Street or R. F. D. 
Postoffice ....... 
State . 
111M M1111 ! 11111111111II111 m 111111 mill MIIIIIII 
15 DAY 
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JUST WRITE AND SAY YOU WANT TO TRY A 
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When your bicycle arrives, try it FREE for 15 DAYS. If 
then you are fully satisfied with it. send us onlv $3.00. 
then $5.00 » month for seven months. If it does not suit 
--ou. ship it back at oor expense and we will refund even 
e freight you pain oil arrival, 
d Fn 
L 
-_RoUm _______ _ _ , 
Control Dt-raotlily, mdodllW CbunnelBar Stand. 
SUES and STYLES, tor BOYS, MEN, CURLS ana WOMEN 
NATIO NAL F ARM EQUIPMENT CO., INC. 
DEPT. ffffm 98 CHAMBERS ST., NEW YORK 
Bui/r 
RIGHT 
Sofa 
RIGHT 
