The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1181 
The Home Dressmaker 
Fall Impressions. —Long skirts, long 
flowing linos' and rich embroideries make 
the Fall styles stately und dignified. We 
noted, in one fashionable hairdresser's, 
special coiffures to be worn over bobbed 
hair, to disguise (be abbreviated lucks, 
which look out of harmony with the new 
gowns. The newest styles in hairdressing 
are rather classical, bands and waves that 
show off long ami luxuriant tresses. Best 
of all is a return to sanity in the cure of 
the complexion: one sees clear, healthy 
skin, rather than a coat of paint. The 
okl-fashioned torturing corset, moreover, 
is permanently ret ired, and it is no longer 
necessary for reformers to point out the 
horrors of tight lacing. 
Twill with Bra in Trimming. —In 
the first picture, the figure at the left, 
shows dark blue Poiret twill trimmed 
with black and silver braid. The straight 
narrow skirt is almost ankle length, and 
the trimming is put on so that it appears 
wrapped around, a style often carried out 
by folds or draping. The long-waisted 
blouse has long, loose sleeves, set in with 
large armholes, the sleeves and neck be¬ 
ing trimmed with the braid. This braid 
was put on with simple embroidery 
stitches, which made it look more like 
embroidery than braid. At the right 
shoulder, three rows of braid start in 
front, the ends slipping into a pockel ; the 
braid then passes over the shoulder, 
down the back to the hem, and continues 
around to the front, where it extends up 
the skirt. This trimming gives the long, 
slim lines demanded by the new modes. 
The dress \va> very simple, quite within 
the powers of tin* home dressmaker, but 
stylish and becoming. The bat shown is 
a close tricorne of black velvet bound 
with silver braid. Tricornes of varied 
styles are among favorite Fall models. 
Ilats generally are more artistic than last 
season, with picturesque sweeping lines, 
and there are few women who cannot 
find something becoming. 
A School Dress.— The girl’s dress 
shown is rust brown jersey cloth, a sim¬ 
ple slip-on style. The raglan sleeves form 
a yoke jit tint shoulder, the dress itself 
being perfectly plain and straight. There 
are no fastenings, merely an opening in 
front, bound with I he material, the turn¬ 
over collar being white linen. On raeli 
side of the frant Is a smsill straight pock¬ 
et, with four rows of black and rust fancy 
braid extending straight from the pocket 
to the hem. The belt was white patent 
leather, with a fancy buckle. Dresses of 
this style are worn by girls up to 1.2 
years, aud jersey cloth is especially suit¬ 
able for school wear. 
Satin-faced Cuepk. -In the second 
group, the dress at the left is satin-faced 
crepe in a soft, pinkish sand color. The 
plain long skirt has two flying panels ex¬ 
tending below it. these being bound with 
the material. The trimming Consists of 
bands of line Lucks of the same material, 
set in across the tucks. The sleeves were 
set in raglan fashion with three bands of 
tucking that went across the back, form¬ 
ing a yoke. There was no other trim¬ 
ming on the waist. The deep low girdle 
had three bands of tucking let in also. 
The lint worn with it was satin of the 
same color, embroidered in rose. The 
Colonial pumps worn by ibis figure show 
the present taste iu shoes. Which is mov¬ 
ing away from the Hat-heeled ankle-strap 
type to the buckles and fancy tongues, 
A New (>i,d Fashion. —The dress in 
the center has a suggestion of the Civil 
War period, except that no belle of that 
day would permit an untrammeled waist 
line which would permit deep breathing. 
This dress was a pebble crepe in warm 
mahogany brown, and the long gathered 
skirt was trimmed with row upon row of 
flat silk braid of the same color. This 
braid made the skirt stand out. and ap¬ 
pear wider than it really was. The flar¬ 
ing bell sleeves were also trimmed with 
rows of braid, and gathered into a tight 
little wristband. The waist was entirely 
plain, slightly bloused. The hat worn 
with it. was a wide mushroom shape of 
henna crepe, trimmed with a fancy feath¬ 
er of a mahogany shade. 
A Peasant Blouse. —The child at 
the right wears a little peasant dress of 
coarse unbleached linen, embroidered in 
red, blue and black cotton. It is like a 
Russian smock, cut bishop style, sleeves 
and neck slightly gathered in. The em¬ 
broidery took the form of four panels, 
front, back and over the shoulders. A 
narrow line of embroidery went around 
the neck. It was a quaint little frock, 
and we can imagine how sweet a bobbed- 
haired little girl would look in it. A good 
many of the fashionable modern clothes 
for little girls are as simple as an old- 
fashioned pinafore, and sensible bloomers 
do away with the starching and ironing 
of frills and embroideries. 
Notes and Novelties. —The newest 
collars are deep round berthas, and there 
are attractive new guimpes consisting of 
a vestee. with this deep bertha attached. 
“Cainibockers" are introduced for wear 
in place of a slip under the ntnv long slim 
Fall gowns. They consist of a camisole 
attached to ankle-length pant alette, all of 
silk jersey in dark shades. 
Brown shades of all sorts are again in 
vogue. Three of the leading French 
shades are Indian chestnut, a deep rich 
mahogany tint, mordore. a reddish cocoa 
brown, and blond, a pinkish tan. These 
are especially handsome in chiffon velvet, 
which is to be popular among rich fabrics 
this season. 
Poiret twill still remains the most 
popular woolen dross material. In silks 
there is a new crinkle satin that is used 
for coat dresses, and the various forms of 
crepe hold their favor, especially satin¬ 
faced and Canton crepe. 
While one still sees many beaded 
dresses, embroidery in silk, wool and 
metal threads is taking its place, Rus¬ 
sian and Oriental patterns and colors be¬ 
ing favored. These embroideries are often 
very elaborate. Embroidered fabrics are 
used for skirts, sometimes embroidered all 
over, sometimes in bandings. Wc noticed 
one rich dark brown woolen material, 
embroidered all over in elaborate, designs, 
which was S22.50 the yard. 
Monogram blouses of white crepe de 
chine and habutai silk have the wearer’s 
monogram embroidered on the front. 
The newest overblouse is the jacquette 
blouse, which is rather likr a loose 
Chinese jacket fastened over at one side 
of the lower edge. Very rich materials 
are used for these blouses—matelassc. 
crinkled satin or heavily embroidered 
cloth. Such a blouse worn over an ac¬ 
cordion pleated crepe or satin skirt makes 
a handsome costume. 
The early display of suits show many 
with fur tt imuuniug. The general outline 
of suits is long and slim. 
The Pastoral Parson and His Country 
Folks 
(Continued from Page 11S0) 
this time. lie had the Parson's pole— 
supposed to be lucky—but nothing doing. 
The Parson was rowing aud just think¬ 
ing thar perhaps Shelley's line was out 
in too deep water, when the event of the 
day happened. Clossie is always quick 
and terribly active; Shelley is moderate, 
but for once be really almost got excited. 
The Parson saw at once that it was some 
whale lie had hooked, and instantly 
turned for deep water to keep him out of 
the weeds. \Vo slowly bore round aud 
took him dear over to the landing place 
and the sloping, shady beach. It was, 
like (’lassie’s, a pickerel, measuring over 
20 in. long and weighing a little shy of 
1 lbs. It was a good fish, all right. We 
got over SO fish all told; four or five bass, 
not large, for it was a pickerel day and 
not a bass day. After dinner we did 
little, for though it was still cloudy aud 
rainy, there was no wind, and the water 
was dear and calm. 
Pkaciiks and Cream. —That does 
sound good, doesn’t it? We did have a 
nice time down to church last Sunday. 
< hie family brought a fine lot of peaches. 
And one woman came in a car holding a 
pitcher of cream iu her lap. The good 
sister fell to and pared and cut up those 
peaches before church. 
sign notes 
at the dining 
table ? 
I F your mealtime cup of coffee leads 
you into midnight wakefulness and 
mid-afternoon drowsiness (as so often 
happens) why not stop giving the 
promise to pay? 
It is so easy to keep out of debt by 
turning to Postum. 
Postum is a satisfying, mealtime drink, 
rich in flavor and aroma—and with no 
regretful settlements, afterward. 
Sold by 
All Qrocers 
Why not try Postum instead of coffee 
today, and pave the way to better 
health and happiness? 
Postum comes in two forms: Instant Postum (in tins) 
prepared instantly in the cup by the addition of boiling 
vater. Postum Cereal (in packages, for those who pre¬ 
fer to make the drink while the meal is being prepared) 
made by boiling fully 20 minutes. 
Postum 
—FOR HEALTH 
“ There’s a Reason 
Made by Postum Cereal Co., Inc., Battle Creek, Mich. 
99 
Pattern A-236. 
MERCERIZED TABLE DAMASK. Width. 64 laches. 
We Pay Parcel Post 85c. Per Yd. Postpaid 
Make Your Own Table Cloths 
and Save Money 
P URE white highly Mercerized Table 
Damask, durably woven of select 
yarns, in an attractive design. (See 
cut above.) 
Will wear well and laundry splendidly. 
Has a fresh and lustrous linen appearance. 
Make Them Yourself. Two and one-half 
yards (2F»> " ill make a large cloth, sized 64x90 
inches. 
We save you Zi to 41196 on your household 
needs. Match it In yourlocat market, with any 
other of greater value and if you do not con¬ 
sider it a bargain, we will cheerfully refund 
your money. 
Our business is built on satisfied customers. 
Wn want you to be oue of tbem. Let ua have your 
order India/, tor asrnany yards as you need We pay 
postage direct to you and by so doing save you the 
C-O.D. charges and additional money 
At eighty-five cents (85c ) per yard you cannot 
duplicate it anywhere. Send Express or Postal 
Morey Order. Satisfaction Guaranteed. 
UNITED DRY GOODS CO. 
701 Ftriusoo Building - Dept. S - Pitt»horgh. Pa. 
Retailer's Regular 35c Grade' 
Fresh From Wholtult Routtr 
A delicious blend sup¬ 
plied direct to families 
at a wholesale price. 
In 51b. Lots 
Bean or 
Ground 
Sent Parcel Post Prepaid on receipt ol » our 
Check. Money Order or Cash. 
Satisfaction Guaranteed or Money Back 
GILLIES COFFEE CO. years 
AU-24 1 ) Washington Street, New York City 
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Syracuse, N. Y. 
