104 ADVENTURE IN NEW ZEALAND. Chap. IV. 
natives from coming into the house, or importuning us 
by their too frequent questions or observations. I con- 
sidered him decidedly one of the finest specimens of a 
wild New Zealander that I had yet seen. 
My companion fell ill soon after we arrived at 
Tokanu ; so that I was detained a month here, in- 
stead of pushing on, as I had intended, to Auckland by 
way of Tf^aikaio and Manukau. I ascertained that in 
eight days I might easily have reached Auckland from 
Taupo, by that route. 
During my sojourn, I visited the different settlements 
between Motu o Apa and one called Pukawa, a few 
miles to the S. of TVareroa. Pukawa is j)leasantly 
situated in the bight of a little cove beyond the wooded 
cliffs before mentioned. About 100 natives mustered 
to receive me and my train, who had arrived in a large 
canoe, in pursuance of their invitation to a feast pre- 
pared for us. They are chiefly missionaries at this 
settlement, which is headed by a chief named Pairangi, 
or " Good Sky." At all the other settlements, a family 
or two call themselves converts, but are very heartily 
despised by the others, who are instructed by their 
head chiefs to adhere to their ancient rites and cus- 
toms. I found that many of the converts were Roman 
Catholics, having the prayer-books of that church, 
and brass crucifixes and relics round their necks. 
South of Pukawa, the wooded cliffs are broken by 
a cascade of 100 feet in height, which falls into the 
lake out of a bower of mingled foliage : this fall, and 
the settlement at its base, are called fFliihi. From 
thence to Terapa* at the extreme S.W. corner of the 
lake close to the northern base of Kakaramea, plantji- 
tions of corn, melons, pumpkins, and kumeras, cover 
the steep bank of rocks which rises from the water to 
* Coteropo of Bidwill's Map. 
