122 ADVENTURE IN NEW ZEALAND. Chap. IV. 
sandy slope of the mountain in variouG forms ; and 
the rocks themselves seem painted with various colours, 
as though stained by some bituminous exhalation. A 
short mile explained the latter appearance. A strong 
sulphureous smell struck my nostrils for some hundred 
yards before arriving at the JVangaihu ; which stream 
bubbles over the opposite side of a stone, from the 
same source as the Ti^aikato, and joins the sea nine 
miles on the south of TVanganui. It is about three 
yards wide and a foot deep. As I crossed it I tasted 
the water, which some Maories had told me was wai 
tai, or " sea water," and others wai kawa, or " bitter 
water." The latter were right ; for it tasted exactly 
like a strong dilution of ink. I had to walk about 
six miles more before I got to any fresh water to 
wash out the nauseous taste. This was a tributary 
of the Tf^angaihu, called TV^ai ihea noa ; on whose 
banks we encamped ; having caught a stray pig from 
a drove belonging to me, which Pakau had driven 
along a few days before. We buried what we could 
not eat, that it might be preserved fresh for the party 
of the invalid, when they should follow. 
Our encampment was not more than a mile from 
the lower line of snow on Ruapehu ; and I longed to 
ascend, as I thought I could perceive a very easy way ; 
but I finally determined to respect the superstition of 
my hospitable friend at Taupo. 
Long before daylight, the natives were as usual 
astir, blowing up the fire to warm themselves and 
roast a few potatoes. When I awoke, a fairy sight 
awaited me. In the midst of the darkness in which 
all below was plunged, the snowy mass above was 
already illuminated by the rising sun. Each peak 
and irregularity of the mountain was tinged with the 
most delicate pink hue. And some minut«s after- 
