t38 ADVENTURE IN NEW ZEALAND, Chap. V. 
wind. Along these sandy beaches, this is a great hin- 
drance in walking; — the sand drives sharply against 
eyes, nose, and mouth, and stings the face. I have 
often known natives refuse to travel along the coast 
against a hau kino, or " foul wind." 
In the morning, we forded the river, which is quite 
shallow opposite the pa at low water during the 
summer. 
Arriving about noon at Manaioatu, we found a large 
party of Ngatiraukawa assembled in the pa at the 
mouth. Among them was a chief of high rank, by 
name Taratoa, the head of a branch of the tribe called 
Ngati Parewawa ; and whose daughter was married 
to TVatanui^ eldest son. I had often heard of him, but 
had never met him before. 
He had also heard of me, it appeared ; for after two 
or three lads, whom I recognised among the crowd as 
having been engaged at Kapiti during the whaling- 
season, had whispered to him, he motioned me to a 
seat by his side on a large log outside the pa, and 
addressed me with the usual greetings, telling me who 
he was, and that he was well inclined towards me. I 
answered him, that I was in a hurry to go on, and did 
not like making new friendships on short acquaint- 
ance. I asked him briefly, how much utu he wanted 
for putting us across the river in a canoe ; as a White 
man, who had lately established a ferry a mile higher 
up on the opposite side, was said to be up the river on 
a trading excursion. " Uiu .'" said Taratoa, with well- 
feigned indignation ; " I do not ask utu from a great 
" name like Tiraweke ; one great chief should never 
" beg utu from another. Launch a canoe !" shouted 
he to some of his assistants. " Put my White man and 
** his people across the river !" And as the canoe was 
small, he told me and the Yankee to get in, and the 
