’po)r' S'i); 
pendicular rows of buttons, and braids on 
the seams, and they are more expressive of 
suppleness. It ought to be well known that 
the short, dumpy person, by having all the 
lines of the dress, whether folds, cut, stripes 
or trimming, vertical, will present a taller 
appearance than to have them crosswise. 
Flounces, ruffles, or any horizontal lines 
proper to the dress of a tall woman, look 
ridiculous when copied by a short dumpy 
one; a large plaid, or figure appropriate to a 
large lady, only makes the small one look 
more diminutive. 
The rule holds good in particulars as well 
as in general. A short, broad face, flanked 
by straight hanging curls, is more becoming 
and attractive than with the hair puffed out 
at the sides, as that treatment tends to pro- 
>f extra width, when 
and blouse (frock) of self-colored woolen 
material, embroidered with soutache (em¬ 
broidery braid.) 
Dress of coral empress cloth, for girls 
from four to six years; both skirts and 
brctdlcs are scalloped and bound with black 
velvet; belt and sash of the same material, 
also scalloped and bound. 
Another dress of blue silk, underskirt 
trimmed with three ruehcs, upperskirt and 
brddles with blue fringe, sash of Scotch 
plaid ribbon. 
Dress of blue cashmere, for girls from eight 
to ten years; underskirt trimmed with three 
rows of satin of the same color, or black cut 
on the bias; upperskirt has only two rows, 
and is looped up in the middle of thy hack 
under the sash ; I lie latter is bordered with 
satin; the body is high, the sleeves very 
short, and completed with long sleeves of 
while Swiss muslin; a deep mat dot (sailor) 
collar of Swiss muslin and lae.c is to be worn 
with this. 
Another of gray woolen material, under¬ 
skirt with flounce cut on the bias and a puff 
of contra plaiting; the latter forms also the 
trimming of the upperskirt, which is looped 
up with the sash in the middle of the hack; the 
puli'is edged on both sides with ejfllee Tom 
ttoucc; body decollete; chemisette with long 
sleeves of Swiss muslin completes the dress. 
Dress of gray silk for girls from ten to 
twelve years; both skirts trimmed with three 
pinked ruches and sash of colored ribbon. 
Evening or visiting dress for girls, from 
ten to fourteen years, is of figured Swiss 
muslin; underskirt of rose-colored linon; 
overskirt trimmed with a deep flounce; the 
body is cut square and trimmed, as well as 
Hie short sleeves, with a puli' of Swiss mus¬ 
lin, edged with lace, and lined with rosc- 
colored ribbon ; sash of the same. 
Styles of Hats. 
Hats arc fast, superseding bonnets, and are 
trimmed in so great a variety that 1 saw not 
two alike. One of the latest styles, called 
Lc, MousquduirC) is of black velvet, with 
very high crown; scarlet or orange-colored 
bows and strings, and a humming bird 
bow. The dress is open on the throat, with 
green revers ; the sleeves are trimmed in the 
same way. 
Pretty and, for the coming season, com¬ 
fortable looking suits are the following:— 
A cloth suit of dark green has a short skirt 
and Polonaise; three rows of black velvet, 
uniters 
FALL FASHIONS, 
BY MADAME II. CIIAUDON. 
duoe an impression t 
the aim should be to lessen it. For the same 
reason, the neck of a dress pointing down, 
waist the same, and stripes up and down, all 
PRACTICAL TASTE, 
In taking up this part of our subject we 
come right home to every one’s observation 
and experience. That more consideration 
should be given to genuine taste, or, in Other 
words, that which is becoming, mid less to 
prevailing style or tyrannieal fashion, must be 
admitted by the reflecting mind. If, in color, 
cut And trimming, dress is made in a style 
suited to the wearer’s size, form, complex¬ 
ion, altitude, Ac., it will always look appro¬ 
priate and pleasing; tor good taste is not so 
tiring as the whimsical dictates of fashion, 
which constantly demands changes, too olten 
offensive to good taste, expensive, and “ witli- 
out rhyme fir reason.” Ho much are people 
in the habit of copying what others do, that 
the general practice is, especially in cloth¬ 
ing, to have the dress made by the tailor, 
dressmaker 
Figure 3. 
tend to make the wearer appear taller, while 
the neck straight across, belt ditto, stripes 
Figuke 1. 
l J IiO MKNADF 
either cut on the bias, or ribbon velvet three 
inches wide and two inches apart, surround 
the skirt; they arts edged below with passe¬ 
menterie or black lace. The Polonaise 
forms a basque and a draped tunic, short, in 
front and long behind; the same trimming, 
only narrower, as on the skirt, surrounds the 
basque; thick fringe on the tunic; coat 
sleeves with reversed culls; high standing 
band around the neck ; two rows of buttons 
up the front, with double loops of thick 
cord; belt of black velvet, with largo bow 
and loops without ends. 
Dress with double skirt and high waist of 
poussiere or dust-colored serge, trimmed 
with pleated flounces of the same material; 
gros-grain sash of the same color. 
Dress of violet or brown plush, trimmed 
witli four rows of satin plaited or scalloped. 
The paletot is made lhll in the skirt, and 
serves as overskirt. Over the panicr falls a 
large bow of satin. 
Dress of heavy black silk with overskirt 
and panier, trimmed with plisses or thick 
chenille fringe, has a very dressy appearance. 
Dress of green and blue Scotch plaid with 
double, skirt and mantelet. Dress skirt with 
a broad plaited flounce; overskirt and man¬ 
telet trimmed with Grelot fringe. 
Dress of perle-ffris alpaca. Dress skirt 
trimmed with one deep flounce of same ma¬ 
terial, the overskirt and hrctolles with perlc- 
fjris fringe. Belt and sash of perlc-gris and 
gros-grain. 
Dress of elderberry or gray purple merino 
is neat and appropriate for the country. It 
is made quite plain, the overskirt with a 
simple hem -, small crinoline of the material 
of the dress is useful in damp weather. 
Beautiful styles of costume of rich taffetas, 
satin and velvet, arc prevailing in Paris. 
Black velvet dress, the waist cut a la Pom¬ 
padour, so as to show a portion of a puffed 
underwaist, is very handsome ; so is one of 
brown and white striped satin underskirt, 
with brown silk overskirt, trimmed with 
box plaited ruffle; edge of the skirt is 
trimmed with a deep ruffle, above this 
another, but narrower, with a satin piping. 
Dress of violet, velours is made very simple, 
High waist and full sleeves, trimmed with 
flounces, or scolloped and bound with violet 
satin. 
Dress of gray gros-grain, with double 
skirt; both skirts are scalloped and bound 
with satin of the same color as the dress; 
three folds of satin cut on the bias, and 
bows of the same, are used for the trim¬ 
ming. 
A dress of lucifer woolen material, with 
live silk bands cut in Vandykes. The basque 
is short, the front in revers. The trimming 
forms brctolles. 
A much admired dress is skirt of blue and 
white plaid poplin; overskirt and high waist 
of blue poplin; both skirts bound with blue 
velvet; belt and sash of the same. 
Figure 2. 
TOILETS. 
perched on the diadem. Another of dark 
green velvet, with a feather to match, sweep¬ 
ing gracefhlly over the crown, and fastened 
with a black aigrette. Bonnet of white fell, or 
plush, trimmed with blue velvet and white, 
ostrich feather, and drooping tearf, to be 
worn around the neck and, fastened on the 
shoulder, is irresistible. Pretty and useful is 
a black velvet bonnet, lace-looped, and a tea 
or moss rose on top. 
For Dinner and Evening Di'oss. 
The following are pretty. Dress of blue 
Faille, with moderate train. The tunic of 
black poult di i sole forms in front a short 
tablier (apron,) the edge of which is trimmed 
with a ruche and fringe, and looped on the 
side with a how ; the back is full and long, 
also looped with bows on each side. The 
sleeves of the tunic are quite short, in order 
to show the blue sleeve's, and are trimmed in 
the same way as the tunic , the blue sleeves 
arc only trimmed with rows of the same 
material, cut. on the bias. 
Dress of white Swiss muslin, trimmed 
with two ruclies of brown taffeta ; the tunic 
of brown silk, trimmed with fringe of the 
same color, and headed with a ruehc. Body 
cut a la Pompadour, with short puffed 
sleeves; chemisette and long puffed sleeves 
of Swiss muslin, trimmed to harmonize with 
the rest, complete the dress. 
A simple evening dress is a skirt of light 
silk, with high tunic of a thin material, and 
a handsome sash. 
A white Swiss muslin dress worn over a 
rose-colored silk; the muslin skirt has a 
flounce, and is looped up with rosettes of 
rose-colored silk or flowers ; underskirt has 
a plaited flounce; body of rose taffeta, cut 
cn ceeur ; chemisette of Swiss muslin, crossed 
in front; bouquet, at the sides; short sleeves. 
Another of white Swiss muslin is made 
with four ruffles and half a dozen narrow 
tucks ; the overskirt, together with the waist 
and sleeves, arc trimmed to match t he skirt. 
A black gauze or tulle dress, trimmed with 
black, and worn over a light colored silk, 
and looped up with bouquets of colored 
flowers, is marvelously pretty. 
A stylish dress is made up of cerise silk, 
elaborately trimmed with white lace, looped 
up en panier. 
Continues for CliUili'eu 
Scotch costume for boys not older than 
eight years is a skirt with dense broad 
nlaits. and long 1 aimed waistcoat of Scotch 
Ac., after designs furnished 
alike for everybody, regardless of their in¬ 
dividual peculiarities, so that the tall, slim 
figure and the abort broad one are expected 
to be clothed after the same model. In the 
same way, all complexions are garbed pre¬ 
cisely alike. 
s/sj . c 
'W^/x/v •r 
FiauiiE 4. 
and flounces going from side to side, cannot 
help producing the effect of width. Per¬ 
haps these ideas are not new to some readers, 
but they seem to be regarded by few if any. 
The beauty of the female face lies mainly 
in the oval form, but in the head gear of t he 
present day wo see the outline destroyed by 
fashion squaring the face unpleasantly, as in 
Figure 1. Figure 2. 
A good illustration of the absurdity of such 
a custom is furnished in the case of two 
sisters, who asked what colors to choose in 
trimming their bonnets. The reply was: 
Green for E., who was very pale, that the 
color might bring out, by contrast, the too 
Hide pink: of her skin, and for G. a cherry 
color, that its depth might overpower the too 
prominent red in her complexion. They 
agreed upon the philosophy of the advice, 
but as at that time the flaming colors Ma- 
f/enta and Solferino were “the rage” they 
were adopted. The result was, the superior 
brilliancy of the color in the case of the 
pale face, made the otherwise handsome 
young lady to look like a corpse or ghost, 
and the sister’s face, lacking in clearness, 
was made to appear less clear. 
Another illustration of an opposite result: 
A lady had for a long time been afflicted with 
eruptions over the lower portion of the face, 
producing numerous red and purple spots. 
She was advised to trim the inside of her 
bonnet with small flowers of a very deep 
purple and crimson, avoiding white. The 
effect was to completely subdue the aggra¬ 
vating spots on the face, and she was told a 
number of t imes she never had a bonnet so 
becoming to her ns t hat, one. 
Not, only is color important, but the cut 
and mode of trimming rightly claim our 
attention as well. See in the artilleryman 
how the horizontal lines across his breast 
carry the eyes right, and left, giving breadth, 
denoting solidity and power, just the re¬ 
quisites of his brunch of the profession. 
The infantryman and cavalryman’s spe¬ 
cial qualities being activity, they have per- 
Figurk 5. Fioure 0. 
Figure 5, and sloping the forehead like a 
monkey, as in Figure (3. In Figures 1 and 
2 the heads are the same in size and shape, 
but observe bow different the impression 
produced by the hanging curls, as contrasted 
with the horizontal puffs. In Figures 3 and 
4 the outlines arc precisely alike, hut the 
con trary methods of treating w it h the stripes 
make one appear like a boarding school 
miss and the other a stout country lass. 
September, ISfift. 
Note. —If the readers will with scissors 
out out of a folded paper two figures of the 
same size and shape, and with a pen or pen¬ 
cil mark on one stripes across and on the 
Other up and down, they can judge of the 
correctness of the ideas presented, as well as 
be surprised at the result. w. n. 
Neatness is essential to good manners, 
