CORE’S BUBAL NEW-YORKER. 
DAILY BUBAL LIFE. 
FROM THE DIARY OF A GENTLEMAN NEAR NEW YORK CITY. 
A Late Spring.— March IB.—Last year 
at this time we had our early peas aud po¬ 
tatoes planted; but now the ground is cov¬ 
ered with snow and frozen nearly two feet 
deep. This unusual cold weather, at this 
season, will put everybody behindhaud with 
their spring work, and hurrying times may 
be expected whenever the warm rains aud 
sun appears. Very little garden or farm 
work can be done so long as the ground re¬ 
mains frozen, still there is always more or 
less preparation to be made, such as getting 
implements in order, making rails, stakes, 
repairing fences and working over compost 
heaps, that if done now will save just so 
much time later in the season. 
Tender and Hardy Evergreens.— 
March 26.—The past winter will long be re¬ 
membered for Its severity, especially among 
those who cultivate rare trees and shrubs. 
I have been looking about among my ever¬ 
greens, to-day, and many a one heretofore 
considered perfectly hardy is severely in¬ 
jured or dead. Among arbor-vitas I found 
a splendid five-year specimen of Ellwan- 
ger & Barky's Tom Thumb, killed, or so 
near it as not to be worth saving; Biota 
ercoldcs also dead; Golden arbor-vitas, 
Biota chlnemtt aurca, badly scorched; 
Thuja minima killed, aud several other of 
the more rure species either killed or badly 
injured. In other classes of evergreens, 
the same destruction is to be seen; 1‘icea 
nordmiulana badly scorched; Ccphalotax, 
its Fort uni , nearly all the leaves are dead; 
Podocarpus Japonica, dead; Thulopsts 
borealis, scorched on the South side; Thui- 
02 i 8 ls Dolobrata, slightly injured; Abies 
pumlla slightly injured, and American 
Hollies where fully exposed to the wind and 
sun are more or less injured. 
The new evergreen, VetChia Japonica , 
introduced last year by Parsons & Co., aud 
of which 1 was fortunate enough to obtain 
a specimen, has passed through the winter 
unprotected and uninjured. 
The past winter haviug been exceedingly 
dry as well sis Ould, aud uo snow on the 
ground to protect the roots of the plants, it 
must be taken as an exception to the general 
rule. Of course, it is somewhat discourag¬ 
ing to lose so many choice trees; but such 
experience brings its own reward, in teach¬ 
ing us to be more careful in giving protec¬ 
tion to choice plants. 1 am convinced that 
we shall have to practice close planting, and 
place choice, half-hardy species in groups 
among the very hardy native kinds, and in 
this way give protection to those that may 
occasionally require it. Of course, l am 
locking the stable after the horse is stolen, 
but others may take the hint and profit 
thereby in their planting this spring. 
Pruning Hardy Shrubs. — March 27. 
—In pruning the shrubs about my garden 
to-day, fouud myself shortening-in the long 
bi'auches of some kinds, and only thinning 
those of others. Of course 1 did not ask 
myself why these different, systems were 
adopted for different shrubs, because long 
practice and observation made me prune in 
this manner without any special thought in 
regard to the operation. But 1 can readily 
understand how the novice hi such matters 
could make great mistakes. For instance, 
if he should shorten all the leading shoots 
of his lilacs, they would not bloom, because 
the flower buds are borne only on the ends 
of branches, and the same is true with Mag¬ 
nolias and a few other shrubs aud trees. 
The Wclgclas produce their best flowers on 
shoots of one year olds and if these are 
shortened, the portion remaining will bloom 
just as freely, or even more abundantly 
than if none had been removed. Whei'e 
these shrubs are grown In large clumps the 
old canes which have bloomed for one or 
two seasons should be removed entire and 
the young shoots allowed to fill up the 
space. Deulzias , Flowering Almonds, Spi- 
rceas, and many other shrubs which pro¬ 
duce their flowers on small side or laterul 
shoots may be pruned In the same manner. 
The best time to do this pruning is just 
after they bloom iu summer, then the entire 
strength of the roots goes to produce canes 
for next season. The Althea, or Rose of 
Sharon, produces its flowers on the new 
wood, consequently the more severely the 
plants are pruned in spring the more new 
growth and flowers the following autumn. 
Lilacs may be pruned as soon as they cease 
flowering in the spring, and if it is neces¬ 
sary to shorten the bi’auches it should be 
done at this time in order to allow new ones 
to be produced with their terminal flower 
buds before the ensuing year. 
All these variations in the form of growth 
and mode of flowering seem to be a very 
simple matter to those who know them, hut 
as oue passes through the country and sees 
the neglected gardens aud orchards, or the 
fully take them up; cut off the tap root 
about eighteen inches below the surface, 
and set them in a convenient place in rows 
three or four feet apart; leave them to 
grow six to eight feet high. Then dig them 
up carefully, early in the spring, wheu the 
dirt is adhesive, leaving as much as possible 
: p -Vi 
Vo -A .' 1 * 
BUROPJJk^ WEEPING LARCH. 
results of injudicious pruning, he is com¬ 
pelled to believe that there is need of even 
the simplest instruction in regard to prun¬ 
ing shrubs aud trees. Observations iu re¬ 
gard to the habits of trees and shrubs Bhould 
be a sufficient guide to the best time and 
method of pruning. 
glrboricullural. 
WEEPING LABCH. 
We present herewith an illustration of 
the European Weeping Larch, (Larix 
Euro pee pendula.) It is sometimes called 
the Tyrolese Larch, but it is only a variety 
of the common European species, a most 
beautiful and useful tree, and well adapted 
to our climate, thriving in a great variety 
of soils. Both the weeping aud upright 
varieties of the Larch are trees suitable t o 
plant near dwellings, inasmuch as their 
leaves are deciduous aud drop off in autumn, 
allowing the warm sun of winter to enter 
the house at a time when needed; aud iu 
summer it is shut out, thereby giving a cool 
aud acceptable shade. 
The larches possess the flue beautiful 
foliage of the most desirable evergreens, and 
we know of uo more graceful tree than this 
weeping variety. On acoount of the dense 
shade of large evergreens in winter as well 
as summer, they should never be planted 
close to the dwelling house; but all deciduous 
trees may be placed in this position, and the 
Larch among them. We presume almost 
any of our nurserymen can supply cus¬ 
tomers with the Weeping Larch. 
•-- 
GBOWING NUT TBEES. 
A Subscriber asks In the Rural New- 
Yorker of March 2, page 148, how to grow 
Chestnut, Hickory and Walnut trees from 
seed. Tell him to follow the course of na¬ 
ture. I have planted Black Walnuts and 
Butternuts by the hundred. Plant in the 
fall, soon after they are gathered, wheu the 
shuck is green; never allow hard shell nuts 
to dry. My practice has been to plant 
quite thick in rows, six or eight to the foot, 
about four inches deep. At two years old, 
wheu about three feet high, I transplant to 
give them more room. The tap root of the 
Walnut is as long as the top, aud twice as 
large round. I dig a trench beside the row 
eighteen to twenty inches deep, and care- 
on the roots; move carefully to the place 
desired; have holes dug large, to receive 
the roots as they grew before; fill the hole 
with rich, mellow earth. The owner, with 
his own hands should place the dirt care¬ 
fully under and round every root; pack firm 
until all the roots are covered; then spread 
over the surface about four inches of loose, 
mellow earth. I will warrant them to grow; 
have never lost one. 
I have Black Walnut trees, raised from 
seed, about twenty years old, from ten to 
fourteen inches in diamer, a foot above the 
ground; have gathered two bushels of nuts 
(with the shucks on) from a tree. I have 
several bearing Butternuts. I now regret 
that I had not raised ton times as many. 
They make a beautiful shade tree, and iu 
time the timber will be valuable. 
I once planted in the fall a few Butter¬ 
nuts taken from the chamber dry, late iu 
the spring two only came up; in June I dug 
up oue of the nuts and cracked it; the meat 
was as sound and as good to eat as those 
kept in the chamber. I am too far North 
for Chestnuts, and my woods abound with 
the common Walnut. H. C. 
Paris, Canada. 
-- 
ARBOBICULTUBAL notes. 
Coal Ashes About Fruit Trees.—Are 
coal ashes beneficial to fruit trees? If- so. 
how shall I apply them?— Subscriber. 
Coal ashes are only beneficial to trees 
when applied as a mulch where the trees 
stand in grass. At least we have never 
found them useful in any other way, wheu 
applied alone. They keep the grass down, 
if applied iu sufficient quantity, and the 
soil loose. But they are excellent to mix 
with any kind of fermenting manure. They 
are very good deodorizers, or absorbents, 
aud can be used with the most profit in this 
manner. 
Cuttings by Mail.—Will you please in¬ 
form me how to send cuttings, such as 
grape, etc., by mail, so as to have them go 
safely, and at the regular rate of postage for 
cuttings? i don’t remember to have seen 
any directions iu the Rl ral New-Yorker 
for it.—II., Alto N. J. 
Make the cuttings of the required length, 
say from six to twelve inches, aud tie them 
iu bundles which shall not weigh over four 
pounds when packed. Roll the cuttings in 
damp moss, covering all except one end; 
then wrap in oiled paper, to prevent the 
moisture injuring other mail matter with 
which the package may come iu contact. 
Over the oil-paper put another envelope of 
thick wrapping-paper, upon which the ad¬ 
dress of the party for whom it is intended 
may be written. One end of the package 
must be left open, in order to allow the 
post-master to examine the contents, if ho 
should wish to do so. No writing of any 
kind should be enclosed in the package, ex¬ 
cept a label giving name of the cutt ings. 
Trees in the Shade of Pines—What 
kind of forest trees will grow in a grove of 
old pine trees? I have a grove of piues and 
elms, planted sixty years ago, and the under 
branches having died out, leave too much 
open space. Maple, Ash, and Chestnut 
trees live under the shade but a few years. 
Will any trees live? What is understood 
by the conifers tribe of trees?—A Reader, 
N. Y. City. 
We do not know of any forest tree that 
will succeed well under the shade of pines. 
But there are many shrubs that might be 
planted around the borders of the grove, 
and, perhaps, some species may succeed in 
among the trees. Mollies, Kalinins, and 
some of the native Rhododendrons, are 
beautiful, broad-leaved, evergreen shrubs, 
that succeed pretty well in the Shade, and 
you can scarcely do better than to try them 
in the situation described. The word coni¬ 
fer* simply means “cone-bearing.” The 
most common examples are the Pines, 
Spruces, aud Larch. 
FLORICULTUBAL NOTES. 
About Lilies.—Where can St. Bruno’s 
lilies be had ? 1 do not see them in either 
of five catalogues received this spring. Also, 
please tell me if “ Florida Lilies” (OHnUm 
Americanam l are hardy and may be left in 
the ground? I had formerly a lily growing 
about one and a-hulf or two feet high, dark 
green leaves, whorled, very bright, orange- 
colored, erect flowers, blooming in June; 
but having Lost It, I have never been ablo to 
replace it, as 1 did not know the name. Can 
any oue inform me? I have a passion for 
lilies, but they do not do well in my soil, a 
light sand, and should like advice.—F. A. A. 
We do not know why our florists neglect 
to advertise the St. Bruno’s Lily, (Anthcri- 
cum UUastruin, unless it be that they have 
none for sale. If they are so very scarce, 
some one should import a quantity and 
grow a stock of this fine old plant, llad 
you given us your address iu full, we might 
have induced some friend to send you a 
plant. The “ Florida Lily ” (Crlnvm 
Americanum) is not hardy in the open 
ground anywhere in the Middle or Northern 
States. 
The bright orange-flowered lily, to which 
you refer, is probably Lilium umbeUatum. 
Light sandy’ soils are sometimes too hot for 
lilies iu summer, causing them to rust aud 
decay’; the best preventive is to cover the 
surface of the soil about the plants yvith 
some kind of mulch and then give plenty of 
water. 
Grafting the Coleus.—It may seem to 
be entirely superflous to suggest an improve¬ 
ment upon the many’ beautiful varieties of 
Coleus now in cultivation. But it should be 
the aim and pride of every florist to make 
some change or add another shade of color 
or form to every plant under his chai’ge; 
and now that the newer Coleuses are really 
almost, or quite, perfect in both form aud 
color of loaf, he must try his skill in another 
direction and graft the various varieties 
upon one stock. Take for instance a strong 
plant of C-versclutliciti, and graft a light 
golden-leaved variety upon the first tier of 
branches; upon the next, one of a darker 
shade, and so on to the lower, which may 
be the deepest colored of all. Then reverse 
this order in color upon another plant, or 
put a different variety upon each branch. 
Maguificent specimen plants can be made in 
this way, and such novelties are always at¬ 
tractive aud highly appreciated. We throw 
out these hints hoping that at our Fairs 
next full we shall see many such specimens. 
Double Geraniums.—My success with 
Double Geraniums has been good, with but 
oue exception, and that was with the Mad 
Rost: Charmea ux. It is strong growing and 
hardy; the trusses are produced freely and 
well above the foliage. There are many 
pips in a truss—often 50 to GO; but the great 
difficulty is that they’ do not open out full; 
they always have the appearance of being 
wilted. I have tried almost every way to 
induce it to bloom; I ha ve pruned close and 
vice nemi ; also in warm situation and cold, 
and used all kiuds, of manure but without 
effect in regard to blooming. Has any of 
the Rural readers bad such failures.— m. a. 
Conoclinium. — H. R., Fairfield, N. Y., 
asks the name of a plant which he inclosed. 
It is probably’ CcmocUniwm cwlestiniun; 
but we would not like to decide positively 
from so poor a specimen. 
M4 
