Shopping In Liverpool. 
At Liverpool tho custom house ollioers de¬ 
manded our keys, opened our trunks, made 
two or three dives In our dry goods and passed 
us. It was very trying t<> my temper to stand 
calmly l>y and see that saerill;;ious “ilingllsh- 
nmn ” upset my llnevy. Itut that is oncol' tho 
penalties of foreign (ravel. Wo had two or 
three hours In Liverpool, which wo Improved 
In investigating tho city, making trifling ptir- 
ehascs hero and there, so as to Sen the shops and 
shop women. The hirsute structures tho latter 
carry on their heads were something wonderful 
to contemplate. But their politeness was ad¬ 
mirable. An American lady asked forstock- 
experienee the limit of fear. I was much eon- 
soled, however, to hear tho Captain say, in his 
quiet manner, that our escape from sudden and 
complete destruction was fearfully narrow. No 
life boat, could havo withstood such a sea, mid 
only four or live feet of water intervened be¬ 
tween Hie ship's bottom and a fearful lied of 
rocks. Tho sudden shock was produced by the 
ship sinking the wall near the harbor entrance. 
Why the Voyage was a Model. 
So I cull the voyage a “model ’* one.tw Itcom- 
prehended such a variety of experiences. Then 
we had social variations—pastors, lawyers, con¬ 
suls and business men all contributing their 
skaro of tho “fun.” Although oscnp’ng *c - 
angles, and oven tho wheat sheafs (It was har¬ 
vest tlmo) were laid in even rows on tho wagons. 
In matter of speed (tho cars making forty miles 
un hour) and railroad construction the English 
are In advanoo of us. But tho cars tho com¬ 
partments for passengers are enough to disgust 
the humblest American. They are simply a box, 
with two rows of seats or honchos facing each 
other. Aside from thoir being upholstered, 
there is not another element of comfort or con¬ 
venience. Tho engines are small In comparison 
to ours, and a long trough tilled with water runs 
at Intervals between the mils, from which tho 
engine supplies Itself with water, by means of a 
tube and without any slackening of speed. 
London Experiences. 
— _——r. Wo have been In London 
three days-only stopping for 
rest—and have “ done " some¬ 
thing incidentally, such as 
’ going through the " Tower 
and “Westminster Abbey,” 
■ wliero half the English nobil- 
It seems a 
OUR EUROPEAN LETTER 
seven days of perfect culm* with a head wind 
that retarded our progress, one or two days of 
wind and rain, and one or a magnificent sea, 
during which wo wore lashed to the deck, 
tho ship threatening every now and then 
to capsize, while, tho wav us would sweep over 
with a vengeance. I had 
seorotly been wishing for a 
storm and rough sea—for I a 
dislike tame things of any 
sort—and when the elements 
gave us warning I likewise ■ « 
rejoiced. Tho warning, how- 
over, was significant. Two J - 
balls or stars of Are (electri- 
cal light) were visible the 
night previous at each mast 
head, for the length of two 
or three minutes. The sail¬ 
ors said they meant “had,” 
and the Captain declared t hat fj 
we should have a heavy sea, 1 ; 
and that in his sea life of 
twenty years lie had but iwi<e 
seen a similar phenomenon. 
Floral Tribute at Sea for 
the Dead. 
On the third (layout, when 
tho Wyoming was nearest 
“off" Sable Island, a memo¬ 
rial service was performed, 
foil of touching sentiment. 
A few moments before 
ship sailed from 
ity are buried 
grout wrong that, Dickens 
lies In tills dreary place, or 
anybody else who loved flow¬ 
ers and sunshine and chil¬ 
dren. Thon, too, his request 
was to be burled at. Roches¬ 
ter. 
London differs from Now 
York In being cleaner and 
Older and more somber. On¬ 
ly tho first!story of dwellings 
are painted, and that com¬ 
monly a. sort of cream color. 
Of course everything is built 
of brick or stone. But there 
are flowers everywhere—tho 
windows and gardonsarofull 
of them. My first London 
purchase was a.splendid dam¬ 
ask rose set in geranium 
loaves. Tho price was one 
penny (two cents). English 
uioii have none of the hard, 
keen, eager ■overworked look 
of Americans. They smoko 
littlo in i he streets, prefer¬ 
ring to smoke in some place 
“qulotlyanddreamily." Eng¬ 
lish women are the most out¬ 
rageously dressed women in 
the street- that one inn im¬ 
agine. Their costumes are 
neither graceful, elegant or 
tasteful. They wear quanti¬ 
ties of cheap white lace, their 
feet are enormous in size, 
and thoir shoes are corre¬ 
spondingly ugly, although 
sensible in having low heels 
and broad soles. The men, 
including the boys above 
fourteen years of age, all 
wear the stove-pipe bat, but 
less of black clothing than 
Americans. The latter are 
quite notorious abroad for 
their black pantaloons. 
English Servants 
Are models of neatness nnd 
good breeding, Tho men wear 
a 1)1 ek suit, swallow-tail 
coat, and white necktie. The 
women wear drosses of light 
calico, neatly starched, and 
trim, tasteful caps on the 
head. Bessie Is thoroughly 
disgusted with 
English Cooking, 
And relieves herself daily of 
a volly of invectives. “Tho 
incuts are raw, vegetables 
unde rdonn, uot.htng seasoned, 
no salt. In the butter, coffee 
wretched stuff that no one 
but a tasteless idiot could 
drink, and tea.si rong and bit¬ 
ter enough to float an iron- 
el;'d,”- all of which is nearly 
the actual truth. TheChina, 
silver, table linen nnd attend¬ 
ance are Immaculate, but, as 
she despuragingly sighs, “I 
could do without stylo for¬ 
evermore for the Sake of an¬ 
other American dinner." Wo 
ordered a fruit dessert for 
our dinner to-day, and were 
served with two pears, two 
apples and a few plums, for 
which luxurious indulgence 
v e were charged seventy-five 
cents. Apples are Imported 
here from America, and 
peaches lie in the green gro- 
lows swathed in tissue paper. 
the fr 
New York | 
harbor, a gentleman handed = ! 
mo a box of flowers, asking 
mo to give them to the sea, 
In memory of his beautiful gpsr 
child, a little girl of four 
years of age. who In making 
the voyage a few months be- |j 
for® with her mother, had 
sickened the first day out, == 
died mi tho second and been 
buried the third InthCOOCan. 
The morning waft lovely, the j §3 
sea lay sparkling beneath the 
sun, and among the pnssen- 
gets looking no Wiisa lovely 
fair haired child Of the same 
age as the littlo Flokexci, 
whose body the sea guarded 
with such terrible power. 
Ood com fori the heart® that 
Death so bereaves, and doub¬ 
ly so when tho hungry sea 
-wall..us up tin- pitiful mm- ... 
nant left. A grave above 
which the grass grows and 
birds sing and (lowersbloom, ’'"y . ' 
yields its consolation, but the . • ‘ 
sou bears no mark a nd its aw- *'-’4^ 
fill sublimity t — 1 - i le a ' 
Not a Tow-Boat. 
We had two Sabbaths at 
sea. On the first wc had re- 
ligiousexercises, the Captain 
reading tie- Episcopal ser- MtffiBl 
vice. On the second Sunday jgpda.8; 
at Church time we.“sighted " 
a ship which ran up the ling *" 
of distress, and as wo neared 
her it was feared shn was fast 
sinking. Conversations by 
means of Hags were carried 
on between us .m order was 
given to low. 1 ! mi.on ..nr lil'o 
boats, and for a time the ex- 
eitemont was intense. But - *- 
presently information was - 
received ib.ir i ho -hip'.- hol¬ 
ing had shifted to one side, - r l 
and would wo tow her to l.i , - f . 
erpool ? Not doing that busi- 
ness the Captain answered gigg 
“No,” spoke another ship in 
her behalf, and we sailed on. 
The Last Night on Board 
We stopped at Queenstown 
to land a few passengers, and 
after reaching t hat port near- |ggpll5g|Si|aE 
ly everybody felt that our 
dangers were over. But with 
my usual perverseness, or 
held in check by some, evil 
premonition, I went to my 
berth that last night nut with 
ear for the first time in my heart, and never 
slept a wink until wc. arrived at Liverpool next 
morning at four o'clock. The ship rocked as 
never before; the sea washed over t he decks 
with a Tearful rush ; a terrific gale was blowing; 
there was constant rushing to and fro; the 
ship’s whistle blew, and suddenly the ship struck 
—what, l did not know, but fancied it was a rock 
in the Channel, and then the engine stopped. I 
could hear the water running, and, almost fren¬ 
zied with hon or, 1 expected every moment to 
hear the command to leave the ship. .My pretty 
companion, Bessie, lay sleeping as calmly as a 
child, and there was no one to speak to. At 
length the harbor lights of Liverpool gleamed 
through the port-hole wc were safe at last, and 
I slept. I expected to find my hair white when 
I arose, but as I did not I suppose I have yet to 
■» 
V ! I b 
A-ftC'rfs, 
ings, and in return was asked 11 she wanted 
“ inside, middle, or outside women’s stockings?” 
Having a curiosity to know what the last named 
might be, she signified such, and was shown 
stockings large enough to jump into, she being 
somewhat small in stature. Another lady asked 
for Canton llannol, hut the shopman declared 
there was no such goods. She finally described 
it, “yes, they hud that,” but they called it 
“ white swan's down calico." 
Railroad Impressions. 
The road from Liverpool to this city is de¬ 
lightful. The fences are hedges, the trees mag¬ 
nificent, tho bridges miracles of strength, and 
the whole country a garden. The husbandry is 
Of the most precise character, everything being 
done after a geometrical pattern. Grain and 
hay stacks are shaped and trimmed to perfect 
sickness, I found the voyage at times almost un¬ 
endurable, I would as soon think of prescrib¬ 
ing a sea voyage to a sick man, as close confine¬ 
ment in a foul cell. The mere fact that one 
cannot escape from it is most tantalizing. We 
had been provided most bountifully with sea¬ 
sick recipes, which we studiously avoided put¬ 
ting into practice. We were clad as for Winter, 
ate regularly the food we were accustomed to, 
refrained from wines and liquors, lived on deck, 
and resolved Ph dnubled-lotided wills never to 
yield to Old Neptune. And we didn't,although 
most of our sister and many of our brother pas¬ 
sengers did. One man, with tears In his eyes, 
declared that he would never, never cross the 
sea again if God would forgive him for tho 
present folly; ond one quaint little girl begged 
her papa when they returned to go by railroad. 
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