lighter shade scalloped and bound. Thesedross- 
es should not be attempted except by compe¬ 
tent dressmakers, as Iho entire tffect Is pro¬ 
duced by a knowledge of the requisite shades. 
The One feature of the waist Is the long square 
vest, which is the favorite stylo this season. 
Vests arc universally Introduced iti one form or 
another. They may be simulated by tho trim¬ 
ming, or rmtdo of silk or velvet. The velvet 
vests are particularly elegant. Basques are 
more worn than last season. They are much 
more becoming to most, persons than the polo¬ 
naise. The latter has lost its sloping back en¬ 
tirely ; all fullness Is gathered on to I lie waist 
in large plaits, and buttons or Jet ornaments 
substituted for bows. Sleeves are in coat form, 
ending often with a rulUo at tho wrist, but 
made with a rev era when attached to a corsage 
with a vest. 
Black silk dresses are still in favor. l*’oi‘ per¬ 
sons who do not have many costumes they are 
indispensable. For evening wear they are 
lightened by vests of while muslin over a color. 
They arc extremely pretty. 
Black bows lined with a 
color and left raw at tho 
edges may lie disposed 
a bout the dress with good 
effect. 
with the lace, which Is very handsome in outer 
garments, especially tho loose-belted Polonaise 
of heavy cloths, now very much worn. In 
using this lace, It is best to buy the lace and 
purchase the dress to match it. The price of 
the lace depends on tho color. The dark blues 
are the cheapest, costing «T» cents. Rich gimps 
are still used for trimming; 1hj.y come in very 
handsome designs, but are not so popular as 
formerly. Many trimmings are made out of 
tbe dress goods; but this Is not to be recom¬ 
mended, neither on Ihe score of beauty nor 
economy. Most dress-makers charge extra for 
man can compass a fashionable and becoming 
costume. 
Tho colors which last year made a successful 
break among the prevailing blacks, arc this 
year pre-eminent. They defy description, hut 
can ue referred to the dun and dusky shades 
of November leaves now strewing thq woods, 
and to tho metallic hues of bugs and Insects. 
There arc greenish blues culled peacock shades; 
there are greenish blues and yellowish green, 
called bronze, and a light green called sage, 
which Is very lovely and popular; in addition, 
there are the plums, purples, smokes, olive 
brown, and gray shades of last year. These 
shades come In all materials. A good quality 
of satin mas be bought for 50 cents; substan¬ 
tial serges from 60 coots to $1.25; Cashmere 
from *1.36 to $2.50; French poplins for 75 cents 
and $1; Irish poplins, of very good quality, for 
$1.50; silks of every quality, from $2 and up¬ 
wards; an exquisite fabric, called Caohomire 
Sieilienno, for $5, and so on, up to embossed 
velvets and brocaded gros grains for $15. 
COSTUMES ILLUSTRATED 
iiiK Illustration wo give tuts wees, is oi a 
costume more especially designed for homo 
wear. The material may bo eashuiure drop d ct<', 
alpaca or satin. The underskirt is trimmed 
with Kilt plaiting of two shades, which isveiy 
pretty when the shades are well selected. We 
would advise, however, that they be of one 
shade, and suggest alternate Kilt plaits and bias 
ruffles, two each. The belted polonaise is the 
feature of the dress as It is of most costumes 
this season. It is cut very Loos.. In the back 
th.> width of the cloth is laid in large box plaits 
at l be waist. 11 may be draped to suit tbe taste. 
The trimming Is a Kilt plait, but bias folds: 
fringe, rutiles or taco may be used as tho taste 
,nnv dictate. The collar is a wide 
ANSWERS TO CORRE 
SPONDENTS. 
Suits for n Bride. 
Limnu H.— Brown gros 
grain seems rather old for 
a bride of twenty. Instead 
get a sage green, a bronze, 
or some of the shades now 
fash Iona bln, either of 
which will be suitable at 
any other timo. Make tho 
skirtdemUtniin; trim with 
a small, bias ruffle, or 
straight ruffle plaited 
around the bottom of tho 
skirt; above that put a 
deeper bins ruffle, with two 
standing ruffles and a quill¬ 
ing of silk for the heading. 
Make tho overdress with a 
short, apron front gathered 
high on the sides. Wo 
would not use white laco 
for trimming, unless It is 
handsome; it is not suit¬ 
able for si I li. Instead, uso 
fringe, the same shade. 
Let the back of tho over¬ 
dress lie long, full, and 
drape prettily. Make a 
basque-waist and trim with 
ruffles, ns you hud them 
becoming to your llgure. 
Catch tho alcoves below 
the elbow in a double box- 
plait, with a bow of the 
silk which will form the 
ruffle. In wearing this 
dress, afterward, select 
gloves in a lighter shade of 
the same color. 
For your traveling outfit 
a skirt of French r poplin 
would be the most suitable, 
trimmed with velvet of a 
darker shade. For a polo¬ 
naise tho Louis Quluze is 
the most suitable. This is 
buttoned half way down 
the front, has largo pock¬ 
ets, trimmed with velvet, 
and large, square pockets 
in the hack. Still more 
serviceable would be a 
redingote of eutnel's hair 
cloth, as described else¬ 
where. Let your hat be a 
felt, a darker shade than 
of your dress, trimmed 
With velvet; a feather or 
wing, as you prefer. Your 
gloves should be of tho 
same Bhade as your dress. 
Florence oi' u. —“ Young 
misses of sixteen,*' unless 
they are very precocious, 
are not expected to go to 
opera in full dress. A light 
hat, your bostcloak, a pret¬ 
ty ruffle around your neck 
and light gloves of at least 
two buttons, constitute a 
costume always suitable. 
engraving is Of light-mu 
cashmere, vaudykod ami 
bound with bine velvet. 
The over-dress is mmlc 
with rovers, and is cut out 
in the neck over u waist ot 
puffs and Valenciennes in¬ 
serting. The hut is of blue 
velvet, With a blue feather. 
Out-Door Wrnp6. 
For ordinary out* door 
wear the belted polonaise 
iB tho prevailing stylo. It 
commends itself by its 
comfort, convenience and 
general adaptability- Iho 
material most popular is 
camel’s hair cloth. It Isa 
yard and a-half wide, am 
ooitott** and $0 a yard 
Thill at $'•! la hiixod ? the 
others are pure wool, it 
wears well, Is vcrv 
andean be worn mail Win* 
ter weathers. The colors 
are gray and light browns. 
The stores have largely Im¬ 
ported these polonaises 
which are embroidered 
with wool In showy pat¬ 
terns. These cost from $50 
to $100. Much prettier, 
however, are those trim¬ 
med with Yak lace, of the 
sameshade. These may be 
made very elegant by an 
inserting of tho laoo. They 
are wadded and lined about 
tho waist and confined 
with a silk cord and tassel, 
an embroidered belt, or, 
what Is better, a Russia 
leather belt. 
These polonaises made in 
the cheapest manner of 
camel’s hair cloth, are still 
expensive; but they look 
very well In Cashmere, 
serge cloth, or what is 
known us ladles' cloth. 
These offer greater choice 
in color, and are very pret¬ 
ty. Wc have seen one fu 
dark mixed ladles’ cloth, 
double-breasted and trim¬ 
med with black, whihh was 
very stylish. 
Black Cashmere sucks 
embroidered, braided and 
trimmed with Yak laoo, 
are still very fashionable. 
The sack, with large capo 
slashed in tiro back, and 
trimmed with inserting 
and edge of luce, is exceed¬ 
ingly pretty. These may 
be made warm enough to 
be worn all Winter. For 
some cloaks are in colors, 
but they are worn ehlclly 
by young girls. Tbe most popular of them is 
dark blue ninth, hnlf tight in the back, double- 
breasted In front, trimmed with faciugof black 
silk edged with white <'ord. 
Velvet cloaksaro in all shapes, and elaborate¬ 
ly trimmed. Gimps,mixed with Jet,are in form 
once more; but lace has still the preference. 
Guipure is greatly used. Old cloaks can be 
easily made to answer every purpose by slash¬ 
ing the back, freshened by new trimming. The 
prettiest contrasts are obtained with handsome 
gros grain trimming, and a gros grain belt and 
sash. 
Pievalllng Colors, Trimmings and Styles. 
Tms season the depth of one’s purse has 
very little to do with one’s ability to be in the 
fashion. Given the information and the aver¬ 
age amount of womanly tact, and oyery wo- 
Trlmmlngs. 
The most popular trimmings are velvet and 
fringe. Every color has now Its trimming to 
match velvets; they come in every shade, and 
aro cut on the bias; they form the richest of till 
trimmings and are generally used. Fringes 
have never appeared in greater variety. A very 
hamlaome article is called crape fringe, which 
la sold from $1 to $1.75. It is something Similar 
to the crimped fringe of last year In effect, but 
is still richer. The plain silk fringes are now 
made more elegant, with elaborate headings, 
and interspersed with silk balls. For trimming 
worsted dresses, there is a very pretty article 
of worsted fringe, which Is sold at 35 and 40 
cents. A new laoc called Yak, has almost su¬ 
perseded guipure, though It is by no means so 
handsome. It is said to wear well, and is very 
stylish on heavy dresses. An Inserting comes 
do to pile your trimming on in characterless 
musses. Every costume must have its meaning. 
Flounces are universal. They aro not very deep, 
and the most unique are trimmed with a ruffle, 
or bound with velvet or sutiu and festooned. A 
very popular skirt Is made with four flounces 
on the buck and a flounced aprou In front.. 
Wide square sashes fasten the apron on the 
back. Kilt, plaits, that is side plaits, are not 
quite so much worn; they are stiff, heavy, and 
require so much material. They can besimulu- 
tod, however, by running a seam on the under 
side. A small lower flounce is invariably placed 
oil the bottom of the skirt. The flounce Im¬ 
mediately above is generally about ten inch¬ 
es in depth. Occasionally gathered flounces 
and Kilt plaits alternate. Many skirts are 
flounced with alternate shades on a skirt of Ihe 
darker, finished with a short overskirt, tho 
The color of your costume depends upon your 
general appearauco. Among the most fashion¬ 
able colors are plums, dark-blues, blue-greens, 
yellow-greens, sage-greens, olive and chestnut 
browns. If you are a blonde wo suggest plum, 
and worn with a pale-blue tie. It you are a 
brunotto, dark-blue and scarlet tic. For mate¬ 
rial Cashmere is t lie handsomest, next drop d'ete, 
serge, satin or Empress doth. The host books 
on etiquette can bo bought for $1.50 and $1.75. 
They are the Bazar Book of Etiquette and Man¬ 
ners Among men, by an English Countess. 
Either may be obtained by remitting the price 
to this office. 
Mats roit Toilet Sets.—I n making mats for 
wash-Btands and bureau, are there not two dif¬ 
ferent sets? So asks Ejuna. Yes, if she chooses. 
In malting such mats, Bizo is governed by taste 
rather than rule. 
