vBmvrs- J ® 3 - 00 *’ ER vba it. 
TBKltlb . 1 Single .No., Elgin U 
NEW YORK CITY AND ROCHESTER, N. Y. 
. Horfei^,)** Ileeliinan St., New Ynrlt 
04 t. . 5 ittillalo Si., Rochester. 
VOL XXIV. NO. 16. 
•£_ 
FOR THE WEEK ENOING SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 1871. 
WHOLE NO. 1134. 
[Entered according to Act of Congress, tn the year 1971, by II. D. T. Moork, In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.] 
lorintlfnre. 
LARGE FLOWERING PEA, 
Lnilirruo Gruniliflorua. 
The capabilities of plants for ornamental 
purposes are studied far less than their 
natural habits. For instance, we know that 
the grape vine and Wistarias are naturally 
climbing, woody plants; but carefully con¬ 
ducted experiments have shown us that by 
careful manipulation in the way of pruning 
they may be changed to stout, vigorous 
shrubs, abundantly capable of sustaining 
themselves without any support whatever. 
The same principle is applicable to other 
and more delicate plants; and the low, trail- 
j Heliotrope becomes a strong shrub and the 
giant pine tree a pigmy to lie petted in the 
conservatory. It is in these deviations from 
natural channels that we tind our greatest 
pleasure In gardening; for it is the unique 
and beautiful forms that attract attention, 
and the more they can be introduced with¬ 
out distorting natural forms and making 
them appear hideous, the better. 
Not long since our artist visited a gentle¬ 
man’s grounds near New York city, where 
there were many choice plants, all of which 
were grown in a manner that showed an 
artistic taste. Among the number that old 
favorite of the garden, the perennial large 
flowering pea was couspicious for its beauty 
simply because it had been trained in an 
elegant form, as shown in the accompanying 
illustration, copied from our artist’s sketch 
book. The plant, instead of being allowed 
to trail on the ground, was supported by a 
wire trellis made in the form of a vase, the 
stems being trained up in the center and the 
ends allowed to droop over the tipper por¬ 
tion, as shown, the large rose-colored flowers 
protruding through the spaces between the 
wires. A glance atom - illustration will give 
any one an idea of the beauty of such an 
ornament, which almost any boy or girl 
could produce by a few hours labor ; and we 
hope none will forget to try it next spring. 
-- 
WINTERING BEDDING PLANTS: 
An Amateur’a Method. 
There are many amateur horticulturists 
who annually preserve most of the bedding 
plants required for the summer decoration 
of their little gardens. To see the dioice 
and varied assortment, and the large quanti¬ 
ties of such plants which some amateurs bed 
out, the wonder is where and how, with 
their limited means, they manage to preserve | 
them so successfully throughout the winter; 
however, in the following remarks I hope I 
shall to some extent unfold the mystery: 
Several times 1 have hud the opportunity 
of witnessing the doings of an amateur who 
has very successfully preserved a large stock 
of plants throughout the past long and 
dreary winter, without any artificial heat, 
or any belter accommodalion than cold 
frames and earth pits. The south side of the 
Laurel hedge is the spot chosen for winter¬ 
ing the plauts, and for this purpose a border 
10 feet wide has been well drained with 3- 
iacli common drain pipes, all leading to a 
main drain of 4-inch pipes. Over these 
pipes are placed such rough materials as 
clinkers, stones and broken bricks, gradually 
broken finer towards the top, after which a 
coating of sifted coal ashes is put on and 
Oeaten firm enough to bear trampling upon 
"without showing it. The thickness of the 
rubbish over the pipes is not more than 9 
inches, and the materials are so arranged 
that when the border is finished off it shall 
lie about 3 inches higher than the path, which 
111113 along in front or parallel with it. 
Along this border are ranged one double¬ 
's' 11 and three single-light frames of the 
Ualla l s ' ze and depth back and front, besides 
two turf pits of the same size which have 
glazed lights over them. The frames are far 
enough apart to admit of a path to each 
frame, and room for the protecting materials 
also. 
The number of plants wintered in these 
places is from 600 to 800, consisting of the 
following sorts—viz., Verbenas Purple King, 
Robinson’s Defiance, and Pulchollu; Pelar¬ 
goniums Tom Thumb, Little David, Cyhister, 
Iudian Yellow, Bijou, Golden Chain, and 
elevates the body of the box so much above 
the soil that water can readily escape, and 
all* can circulate freely among the boxes. 
This plan, I should think, is worthy of more 
general adoption, as it must, to a great extent, 
prevent mildew and damping-off in cold 
frames. The pots are only largo enough to 
hold one plant each, and before storing one 
or two gross or straggling shoots are cut off 
each plant, and sufficient water is given to 
bedding plants. Every dead leaf or rotten 
stem brings mildew or some other enemy; 
therefore these, weeds, and any other ac¬ 
cumulation should be properly cleared away 
when the weather will allow. The object in 
having such small boxes was for the better 
prevention of mildew and other diseases, for 
if a plant or two in a box become affected 
they can he taken to better quarters, and the 
disease confined to the few plants contained 
LARGE E’Ij O W Id RING- PJW.A.—JLatliyrua Grrandiflovua 
Mrs. Pollock ; Salvia patens and splendens; settle the soil ahout the roots. in the box. Fi 
Dahlias ol sorts; and several choice Pansies, The double-light frame above spoken of is sides of the frat 
besides Lobelia spcciosa, Koniga maritima, fitted up with a sort of stage—merely a few stable litter, wl 
ami several sorts of Fuchsias. The little boards supported on bricks—coming up very times during tl 
propagating that is required is done in Au- near to the glass. This frame is partly filled which some pe 
gust and the following spring, hut among 
Pelargoniums only sufficient stock is raised 
to supply the place of old plants to be 
thrown away. 
Before taking-up time comes on, a mix¬ 
ture of common garden soil and sand is pre¬ 
pared, and it is kept dry ; this is the soil used 
for both potting and storing. The Dahlias, 
Salvias, and some Pelargoniums, such as 
Tom Thumb, are laid in the soil in the turf 
pits, while all other plants are stowed away 
in either small pots or boxes. The latter are 
of various sizes, none of them more than 18 
inches long by G wide, and very many are 
no more than 6 inches by 4. They are made 
of rough but straight pieces of board, and 
the bottom part of the end boards is fully an 
inch below the bottom of eacdi box, which 
with such difficult kinds to keep as Mrs. 
Pollock, while sufficient room is left for the 
better treatment of any plant that may re¬ 
quire it during the winter. 
Having now given a general description 
of the preparation for and the storing of the 
plants, 1 will endeavour to describe their 
after-treatment. For some days after the 
plants are put in the frames they are kept a 
little close, just to encourage root action, but 
not so closely ns to cause the plants to grow 
afterwards ; and throughout, the winter every 
opportunity is taken advantage of to give 
them both light and air. Very little if any 
water Is given them, and it is surprising how 
long some of the Pelargoniums will live with¬ 
out it, but cleanliness is most important to 
ensure success in this mode of wintering 
in the box. For protection against frost, the 
sides of the frames are banked up with rough 
stable litter, which is renewed two or three 
times during the winter. Decayed manure, 
which some people use, was found to cause 
dampness in the frames. The tops are pro¬ 
tected by mats, hop-pocketiug, sacking, &c., 
and if the weather is severe a covering of 
dried grass is put on the top.— Thos. Rec¬ 
ord in Cottage Gardener. 
-- - ■ 
TREATMENT 0E WINDOW PLANTS. 
I find so many ladies have attempted to 
bloom plants in rooms in winter and failed, 
that if you will permit me I will give a few 
hints to those interested. First, then, the 
greatest cause of failure is trying to grow 
them in too warm a room; next keeping 
them in too large pots and overfeeding them. 
Ladies having no green houses should only 
grow those plants most hardy—such as 
Geraniums, Rosea, Feverfew, Sweet Alya- 
sum, Mignonette and the blue Browallia, all 
beautiful, bright and constant bloomers. 
I take my Geraniums tip in September; v 
am careful to not break the roots; shako all 
the soil off, cut them down to within six 
Inches of the root, pot them in as small a 
pot as the roots will allow—say three or four 
inch pots. My soil is turf mold, sand and 
a little well decayed manure. Feverfews do 
not need cutting, except to take out the old 
flower stalk. Sweet Alysstim, if it has been 
growing all summer, must he cut back. 
Leave them outdoors as long as the weather 
will admit, then place them in a cool room. 
If you have an old table you do not care for, 
nail a four-inch board around il. to form a 
sink, and fill it with sand to set your pots 
in; it will keep the roots from drying, save 
watering them, and keep the water from 
dripping on the floor when you water them. 
If you have a south window that is just 
the thing; mine faces the east. I kept them 
in an upper hall window until I had a green¬ 
house, and T had them look splendidly all 
winter. The hall is in the center of the 
house, and of course quite protected; hut 
they had no lire. By keeping the plants I 
have named cool, hut not allowing them to 
freeze, they will do well (such has been my 
own experience), and they are easily cared 
for. Mrs. S. J. II. 
Elyria, Ohio. 
-♦♦♦- 
NEW ENGLISH ROSES. 
The Field (London) names and describes 
the following now roses introduced the past 
season. A fine, bright red flower, named 
Auguste Nan maun, is large, full, and finely 
formed, and, being a vigorous grower, has 
the qualities of a good rose. Cuiulide, very 
clear flush-white, passing to pure white, is a 
charming, delicate rose, that needs fine 
weather to show it in perfection. White 
roses are always doubly welcome; this es¬ 
pecially so. Comtessc d’Oxforci, of a bright¬ 
ly-tinted carmine-red hue, is a very large and 
full flower, of fine form, with massive dark 
petals, and a vigorous habit of growth ; the 
rich bright hue of Color is very striking. 
For a large, full rose scarcely anything can 
compete with Edward Morreu, glossy cherry 
pink, a very fine-growing and blooming vari¬ 
ety that, will be largely grown. 
Ferdinand do Leeseps, purple shaded 
with violet, is a first-class rose, large in size, 
fine in form and vigorous in growth. A 
very distinct and quite novel variety is Gen¬ 
eral do Lamartinicre, carmine rose in color, 
suffused with red on the edges of the petals, 
large in size, deep, and of fine form. Lena 
Turner, pale cerise shaded with violet, must 
he mentioned for its soft coloring, though 
not of such fine proportions and quality as 
the preceding. A magnificent rose is Louis 
Van Iloutte, the color splendid scarlet 
crimson, flower of great size and very full, 
and a vigorous grower. This and Comtesse 
d’Oxford were recently shown so finely by 
Mr. George Paul at one of the meetings of 
the Royal Horticultural Society, that they 
were awarded first-class certificates of merit. 
-- 
Ornnuicnlnt ion Tor Winter.— Winter 
li <i millets. 
Do not forget to gather the bright leaves 
—none prettier than those of the sumac—to¬ 
gether with ferns and sprays of vines, to put 
in press. After pressing, give them a coat 
of varnish and arrange in small vases for 
brackets. The arrangement of such leaves 
against a light wall or background is beau¬ 
tiful. As such bouquets require no water, 
very pretty tiny vases may be improvised 
from stiff paper, and ornamented to suit 
one’s fancy. Some kinds of bright pods 
and “ berries ” keep their rich color a long 
time and look well in bouquets. The color 
Nature puts into leaves and grasses is in¬ 
finitely preferable to any of the dyed, alum- 
dipped abominations. These colors should 
he shaded and notes made of their combi¬ 
nations for use in planting and grouping. 
