P 
i 
Iggt^ntq 
WAIST. 
It measured twenty-two inches in circum¬ 
ference; at least I had my dresses made by 
that measure, and I was proud of it. Of 
course I diil not behove in lacing. I did not 
even wear corsets. I wore my dresses only 
just “snug” you know, I had to do that in 
order to make them lit well. But they were 
“not tight.” 
You never saw a lady’s dress that was? 
Well, I have. I saw a lady once come into a 
street car and her waist was so small that I 
honestly believe I could have spanned it. At 
all events it could not have been more than 
17 or IS inches in circumference. Her face 
was white and thin, her lips were bloodless 
and her eyes start ing out of her head. Now, 
her dress loos tight. 
Would she have acknowledged it? 
Well, no, she did not. I heard her remark 
to a friend who was apparently remonstra¬ 
ting with her, that it was “the natural size." 
But, then, who could believe it? That was a 
positive and painful deformity, but where it 
is really natural as mine was, it is graceful 
and desirable. They say the men do not ad¬ 
mire it, but I know better. Do they not tell 
about the svlph like form (what is a sylph? 1 
wonder). There was my brother who made 
tended to keep the body erect, but a tight 
dress prevents the play of these muscles, and 
they become quito uselesss; the corset takes 
their place, and works about as efficiently as 
would India rubber muscles for walking, or 
a wooden hand for writing. 
1 soon commenced letting out my dress 
waists and skirt bands. It was tedious work, 
but then I had a tangible good before me. 
More hip, more vitality I At first 1 felt 
slouchy, but I drew long breaths, and they 
were a luxury and made mo feel better. 1 
complained to Miss Tottrlow that it was a 
much easier matter to crush the ribs in than 
to get them out again to their natural posi¬ 
tion. “Why, pull them out!” said she; 
“ where are your muscles? Throw your arms 
out tills way,” and she brought her hands to 
her shoulders, then extended them in a hori¬ 
zontal line, first one and then the other. “ Do 
it gently at first, ten times every morning 
before you dress. Then extend your arms 
straight up from the shoulders and down 
again ten times, and add that to the regular 
morning exercise. After awhile whirl your 
arms around in a circle a few times; then 
gradually add force to all those as you can 
bear it. But if your dress is perfectly loose, 
all your work—your swooping, your making 
beds and kneading bread, and work in the 
garden, when you have it to do—will help.” 
“What do you call perfectly loose?” I in¬ 
quired. 
“So loose that when you draw the fullest 
not physiological knowledge enough to appre¬ 
ciate any such advice. If you will only be 
practically intelligent and healthful, and Hot¬ 
ter us still, we shall appreciate it all the 
What egotism! 
But what could I reply to 
Jessie. 
a pet of me whenever lie saw me, which was breath possible you will not hit it. 
not often, for lie lived far away; but 1 re- I laughed. X had not equaled that yet. 
member his speaking one day of some fine Come,” said I, “ you must help mo or I shall i 
lady and he said she was “ as slender as Jes- look like a fright.” 
sie.” That was only one of the things that consented. She took a basque pattern, 
mado me fond of it, made it two inches larger than my waist and 
I have got over all that now. Shall I tell then extended the bottom down into a gored 
you how it happened? Well, I was out of ! skirt. I made up a morning dress by it. It 
health that Summer—had been, in fact, for hung much more smoothly than it would 
some time—no local, but a kind Of general with the skirt sewed on. Nobody guessed 
debility, and 1 would not tako medicine for how loose it was. I have worn it hi my home 
it. I had seen a good many cases whore peo- dresses ever since, and, with some moditica- 
ple began to take modicino for chronic debit tions, occasionally for street and evening 
ity, and they never get over t,ho debility, nor dresses. At the end of one year my waist 
the taking medicine either. I knew that my measured twenty-five inches, 
habits were not right in many respects. 1 op CO urse, having once commenced the 
needed more care about sunlight, exercise, gtudyof health, I found other ways of ini 
diet, and so on, and T set myself to think over p r ,>vjug it; but I have never -forgotten the 
the matter. About that time I got a sewing importance of large lungs. If one Is “ notur- 
machine, with a small book of directions, a p y gander,” that is a misfortune to get rid 
which book was a great help tome In running 0 f m f ar ius possible. I have kept up my 
the machine. And the thought struck me training and added some other exercises, 
that, since 1 had another machine far more Quo of these is to inflate the lungs slowly and 
delicate and intricate put under my caro, it t hen beat them with the closed hand, gently 
was a great mistake to blunder on without at first, increasing as I could bear it. 1 con 
any book of directions. I got a treatiso on now , after long practice, beat my lungs with 
Physiology at once, the best. 1 could find. a p m y f 0 r C e, without any inconvenience. I 
One of the first things I lighted on was have also improved my under dress. J have 
about the lungs. There 1 found that all the a loose, sleeveless waist to which I button 
blood in the body must go to (he lungs to be my skirts. The drawers are all in one piece 
purified and vitalized by contact with the air with another waist and with sleeves, so I 
which we breathe. Our Creator in making have no band to support anything. I have, 
our bodies made the lungs just the right size, tried this now for seven years, and have 
so that they would hold only t he amount of succeeded beyond my most sanguine expeeta- 
air necessary for vitalizing the blood of the tions. Bo far as I can judge, my waist does 
body. If wo at all diminish the size of the not now taper a.t all. It measures twenty- 
lungs, then the blood is not fully purified, and nine inches! and I am proud of it, with some 
bad blood cannot fully nourish the body, reason. 
Bad blood may give rise to general debility, | wish I could tell what elasticity and vigor 
or to disease in any part of the body where j g Uc h as I never dreamed of when I 
there happens to be any weakness, and also wor ,. tight dresses. (1 acknowledge now that 
to nervous disorder*. they -were tight.) And I am ns straight as l 
Then there were pictures to show the dif- can be without bending backwards; always 
ference in shape between the full-sized lungs etralghtest when my dress is loosest. And I 
and those of women who had reduced the can work so much harder and longer, and 
size of their lungs by tight dress. I looked in walk so much further! It has paid for all the 
the glass, and I began to suspect that my trouble a thousand times over, 
dress was too tight. Of course 1 talked about My brother came back last week. It was 
these things. "Miss Chough told me that I (. en y ,. ars since he flattered my “ slender” 
might have the licit as tight as I pleased; that vanity. I had not seen him sinco. I was 
was below the lungs and would not compress ttlcn ‘ a candidate for speedy translation, 
them. So I studied that up, and found that £ . why, Jessie,” said ho, “ you look ten years 
the belt which soldiers wear diminishes their yoQn ge r than you did when I saw you last, 
respiration by one-third actual measurement; , a( 'fcavc you been doing ?’ ’ 
that we cannot compress the upper lungs “ Cultivating my waist!” said I, coolly, 
much because the ribs arc fixed; that almost '-Sensible girl! fresh and animated, and 
all the injuries of tight dress come by com- stately as a Juno!” 
pression about the belt; that we thus force •• Do you mean it! I thought you liked a 
some of the organa up against tho chest and s | et ider form.” 
dimmish its size, and others downward, and i n vFhat made you think so?” 
put things into disorder, general and par “Didn’t you say so?” (I k 
ticular, often such as only women can know, Well, who can tell what you 
and which, alas! many of them do know to ni | rC) !Uiy way?” 
then* sorrow, only they do not suspect the “Do you care?” 
cause of it. “Not much.” 
Miss WarbuiitON looked horrified when I “I thought so. You would j 
told her I did not wear corsets—almost made your vigorous health and peri 
me feel as if 1 had sinned against woman- the smallest spindle waist in C 
hood. She could not got along without them; you thought I did admire it.” 
she eoukl not hold herself up—felt so weak! “ Probably not.” 
Was sure she would grow crooked and round- “Well, now, the fact is, w< 
shouldered. I asked her what held the nun anything you may do. Andwhc 
up so straight; but she did not think the the life out of you to gain ou 
question pertinent, and said so much about liow can wo help feeling flattc 
feeling weak that 1 studied that up. Surely can we have the face to reprovi 
enough, there was a cause for it! The- muscles as your elder brother, I ought 
of the back, and all about the waist, are in-* so; but I could not help seeing 
HOW TD CURE CHILLS. 
A t.atw writer of tho Rural World gives 
what she believes to be a sure cure for chills. 
She takes about a pint of new milk and stirs 
into it a tablespoonful of ground ginger, and 
then heats the. milk as hot as it will do to 
drink without burning the patient. Tills is 
given to the patient as soon as he feels the 
symptoms of the chills coming on, and he 
goes to bed and covers up warm, and the 
milk and ginger throw tho patient into a 
perspiration which breaks the chill. After 
this, a pill of blue mass or some medicine that 
will operate upon the liver, is given, and the 
patient is cured, if one trial does not suc¬ 
ceed, two or throe will be successful. 
REMEDY FOR PltES AND COSTIVENESS 
Go to a druggists and call for “Bitter 
Apple.” It costs ten cents a piece. It should 
be broken in pieces and put: in a half pint, of 
whisky. One tea spoonful will serve as 
physic, and has cured fever and ague; but 
small doses of half a tea-spoonful each are 
best for the above complaints,—E. Manning, 
Chatcmqua, Co., A r . Y. 
Pieties and Manners. 
THINGS IN THE SHOPS. 
“Didn't 
better). 
Well, who can tell what you men do ad¬ 
mire, any way ?” 
“ Do you care?” 
“Not much.” 
“I thought so. You would not exchange | 
your vigorous health and perfect form for ] 
the smallest spindle waist in Christendom it 
you thought I did admire it.” 
" Probably not.” 
“ Well, now, the fact is, we just admire 
anything you may do. And when you squeeze 
the life out of you to gain our admiration, 
how can we help feeling flattered, and how 
i can we have the face to reprove it ! Perhaps, 
as your elder brother, 1 ought to have done 
so; but I could not help seeing that you hail 
Among the desirable things now presented, 
all in accord with the holiday season, arc fans. 
They come of every possible variety, prices (l 
ranging from §1 to $30. The expensive va- 
rieties are of round point, point applique ( 
and Chantilly laco, mounted on white satin, 
with pearl sticks or with carvedivory. They 
are very substantially mado, and are an acqui- 
aition for a lifetime. Thcro are several ca¬ 
prices in the way of black lace fans, which arc 
mounted over yellow or Crimson sat in, with I ' 
jiearl sticks colored by chemicals the color of 
tlio satin. They are very brilliant for even¬ 
ing wear; the prices are from *30 to $40. : ^ 
Leas expensive, though more beautiful fans, 
are of white satin, painted after Watteau, 
with tho coquettish beauties and gay gallant s 
of the Court holding wreaths and presenting 1 
bouquets in the midst of blooming gardens; 
these fatm are from |S30 to $30. The white 
and black fans on gilded sticks answer every 
purpose for full dress, and are very much 
reduced in price ; the handsomest can be 
bought from $5 to $10. Tho carved ivory 
and sandal wood are very delicate and pret¬ 
ty, but are not so much in use. 
One of the most popular fans is of Russia 
leather, hi si uipo like a horse-shoe, and orna¬ 
mented with delicato gold tracing; the real 
cost $0, but a very nice imitation is only •?■!. 
Beside these, there are all manner of fancy 
fans of silk, satin and shell, which answer 
every purpose, and are very modest in price. 
BELTS. 
AH kinds of outer garments and t he greater 
number of homo dresses are now worn with 
belts; consequently, wo have great varieties 
to choose from. Tho most desirable and j 
most popular is the Russia leather belt with i 
bag attached. For ladies living in the coun¬ 
try nothing could bo more useful. The bag 
suspended, at tho side has two compartments, 
one for curds, stamps, money; the other will 
hold very small packages. It is so arranged 
that it can be removed in tho house. Such 
cost $fi and *(5. Cheaper kind:; of black imi¬ 
tation of Russia leather and ol' black velvet 
may be had—though they will not wear so 
long. Belts without the bags, are of every 
description. A new style is made of leather 
in pieces, united by huge steel rings. Others 
are clasped by immense fancy buckles of 
steel or oxydized silver. Many are entirely 
of metal and gilded; very pretty ones arc of 
different colored velvets, mounted and clasp¬ 
ed by fancy buckles; these cost $1, $3 and *3. 
CHATELAINES 
The mania for umbrella-holders has been 
1 superseded by fancy chatelaines. The band 
sornest arc elaborate designs with pendant s < >f 
line gilt and enamel. They depend often a 
quarter of a yard, and cost $4, $7 and ?0. 
Many have pendants for keys, fans, scissors, 
and all the articles a lady may wish to carry. 
For those who think these too expensive there 
are heavy chains of oxydized silver and steel 
that are very stylish; besides Costing only $1 
s and $3. For convenience, putting out of 
sight fashion and ornament, we would advise 
every lady who wishes to go with hands un¬ 
incumbered, to buy one of these, if for noth¬ 
ing else than to attach her umbrella. 
SASHES. 
With the prevalence of bolts, sashes have 
lost none of their favor. They are tho imi- 
versal accompaniment of every costume. 
When of the material of tho dress or of vel¬ 
vet they are lined with silk. They are worn 
looped either at the side or down tho center 
of tho skirt, catching tho punier. There is 
a great fancy for watered ribbons, especially 
for black. A pretty pattern is blue gros grain, 
with two watered stripes. It is $3 a yard. 
Plain black gros grain, best quality, is $1.50 
a yard. For evening wear plain colored sashes 
are very popular. They, come in all the deli¬ 
cate shades now so popular in evening silks, 
the palest of blues and pinks, the flush of tho 
salmon, t he pearls and mauves, tho most deli¬ 
cate of greens ; Wit h white tarlotnn and fluffy 
muslins, the effect is very simple and charm¬ 
ing. They are brought in a wide band around 
tho waist and tied in large loops at tho side, 
and hanging in irregular ends; The widest 
ribbons for these cost $3,75, and not less than 
three yards should be used. 
Roman sashes are still in vogue, the Wat¬ 
teau tints arc the most, fashionable, though 
the brighter colors are also worn. They cost 
I $!>, $10 and $11. A caprice has brought out 
the old-fashioned eliinidribbon furnished with 
fringe, but they are not pretty. Roman 
stripes running up and down are also seen. 
There arc gros grain sashes with brocaded 
ends that are very pretty, and cost $10. Plaid 
ribbon can 1 >o bought for 00 cents, but it is not 
considered fashionable. 
CLOVES. 
By ladies in general three-button gloves 
are considered necessary. Some kinds can 
I be bought for $3.35; $3.50 is the most that is 
I charged for them. For evening wear four 
and six buttons arc worn. Tho possibility of 
having gloves cleaned Mid afterward dyed 
lessens tho extravagance of their purchase. 
Undressed kid is very popular for church and 
shopping. They cost $1.50, $1.75, and $3. 
They soil very easily; but it is quite the 
thing to wear a soiled undressed kid, when a 
soiled kid glove would be disgraceful. Dog¬ 
skin is used for winter wear, as it is so much 
thicker. The handsomest dogskin gloves, 
with gauntlets and cull's embroidered, cost 
only $3.50. They are a great protection to 
the hands and wrists, and wear very well 
indeed. 
UMBRELLAS. 
One of the most desirable things a lady can 
now have is a silk umbrella. Very nice ones, 
with handsome carved handles, can be bought 
for $5. For a trifle more ivory handles in 
I elaborate designs can bo purchased. They 
' I are light and durable, may be used for rain, 
snow, or sun, and when taken as a preven¬ 
tion, can be attaelied to the cliatelaino with 
no trouble to tho wearer. 
JACKETS. 
The prevailing fashion of costumes requires 
a warm, snug wrapping underneath tho pol¬ 
onaise or basque. Many ladies wear waists 
of quilted silk, but a French knitted garment 
is admirably adapted for this purpose. It is 
knitted very light and warm, and fits the 
figure. It costs $5 and $7. Buckskin'jackets, 
with perforations, arc used for the same 
purpose; but they are very ugly, however 
well they may ensure comfort. 
Thanks are due to A. T. Stewart & Co. 
and Messrs. Lord & Taylor for information. 
.--- 
FASHIONS IN NEW YORK CITY. 
Walking or shopping costumes were never 
so supremely elegant us now. Evening or 
party costumes are simply beautiful beyond 
description. All that is refined or beautiful 
has its culmination here. Indies coming 
from the great court circles of Europe into 
New York society find our ladies hero not 
only fully up to the standard of their style, 
but surpassing them in the richness and 
chaste beauty of their Costumes. The very 
latest fancies they saw when just embarking 
for this Country-, they saw here, improved. 
These facts point to Smith’s Illustrated 
Pattern Bazaar as a feature in the fashions 
of New York, and to which, the ladies are 
greatly indebted. A. Bcudkttk Smith, the 
publisher of that magazine, is importing all 
the richest designs and novelties that can be 
found in Europe, and that, too, fully two 
months in advance of the season. He has, 
regardless of cost, imported paper patterns 
to sell to his customers, which places the 
matter of dressing in the most approved 
style within easy reach of the thousands of 
our laily readers who are not able to pur¬ 
chase suits of <v costumers” at fabulous 
prices. For a small sum, a. lady can purchase 
a paper pattern of any imported suit, can 
select the goods, have it made, and wear it 
half out before the original slut, arrives here, 
and at about one fourth the cost. With the 
pattern Mr. Smith gives a miniature cloth 
dress, showing every feature of the pattern, 
I so that any person can make it up. 
& 
