out of tho railway station Without paying four 
times as much for getting my baggage on the 
train as I had to 
Mon to Paris, 
Consider myself rich 
ready blowing, but l rushed 
until i came to the 
found a stupid young Gorman girl 
she lived In Munich, which 
Munich at all 
rived at the A 
and everythin* 
tom house. In 
trunk. Then a i 
“now” in It,? nr 
from Vienna!" e 
it, having sense enough to know that nobody 
but a fool and Ida money would bo 
k parted by any Viennese purchase. 
% Although everybody's baggage was 
Hl\ taken out of tho cars and against 
J his will and wishes, everybody had 
^ =4j . t0 f |ii v «■ porter for putting his bag- 
gago back. Did you ever before hoar 
' f't such audacity? People on this 
(g slt lo of the water a re constantly doing 
-j what yon don’t wish done, and then 
obliging you to pay for it. It was Sat- 
zg urdny night when I reached 
Munchen, 
=1811 a,,rl « 3 *t'» contrary to tho principles 
g of my bringing up to travel on the 
Sabbath, I remained there until Mon- 
day. Did you ever, when alone or 
not alone, in a strange city, hire a 
j Jfuido to show you about, and take 
you to all tho places of Interest? A 
r - 'Uiide always professes to speak your 
language, no matter If it bo ChiflOso, 
and to know awry thing about (ho 
~ town. 1 have known several peoplo 
who have Invested in guides and In¬ 
dulged all next day in profanity, and 
once upon a time I took a sixih tn- 
l crest in one, and judging from what 
the sixth part of a guide proved to 
bo, i concluded that an undivided 
one would be mom than r could en¬ 
dure. >So upon Sunday morning, 
when I started out, or tho lioi.nl to 
. lako a walk abroad and view tho 
town, a guide came up and offered 
y Ida services, and I sal ,1 “ Thank you,” 
in a way that led him to believe I had 
lived In Munich all my life, 
I don t enjoy sight-aoeing alone; 
but to sight scrj under the misguid- 
_ anco of a guide Is simply torture. So 
f bogan to do Munich on my own re¬ 
sponsibility, and at the end of four 
hours r had been in the Cathedral, 
yy ; lhe King's Palace, tho University, 
1,10 Public Gardens, I hrough tho Ex- 
--^2 ~-- 7 hlbltion of Paintings t»y Munich ar- 
tlsts, where l had to part with my 
umbrella entirely against my will, 
mil 10,1 th «n to get it back 1 had to pay 
• • . I,alf Ms value, and three times 
= through the Koval Gallery of Paint- 
inga, a superb collection of pictures, 
— *o say nothingof having been from 
utes’ walk, another man took my trunk down 
from the omnibus, and another one curried It 
to the weighing room, and several others looked 
at it, and oaoh and all demanded a fee, which 
one must pay or make a great ado. Finally, the 
man whom I was to pay or not to pay, as I liked, 
came up for ids share »t the spoils. I wdh about 
it the end of my Austrian money and my Amer¬ 
ican temper, hut, offered the man fifteen kreut- 
aers. He turned away In a rage, and Baid lie 
must have I told him he could take fif¬ 
teen or none. Then he went, off to some Cath¬ 
olic priests and told them I was French, and 
that I refused to pay him. Then the priests 
came up and tried to prevail upon me to satisfy 
pay for Its entire transporta- 
why I might thank my stars and 
The ear whistle was al- 
'dong tho train 
dames seules," when I 
who told me 
n Munich ieh’t 
, luii. .Munchen. Finally we Br¬ 
and everybody 
utIntothoCus- 
j recognize my 
I had any tiling 
y no, I’ve come 
OUR EUROPEAN LETTER, 
CONTINENTAL TRAVELING AS A "LONE WOMAN 
I never shall forget the first railway journey 
I made alone. My fat tier purchased my ticket, 
checked my baggage,saw ine seated in the cars, 
counseled monot toopen my mouth in reply to 
any man who might address me a remark, and 
as the train blew its warning whistle, bade me 
good-hy, and stood on the platform of the sta¬ 
tion until the train passed from view-. Under 
8 ueh circumstances It would take a 
smart Idiot to get in the wrong train .. 
with her baggage chocked for Jericho / 
when she wanted to go to Jeru- - : 
salcm. /fe 
Itut traveling In ISuropo is alto¬ 
gether different. If you had forty Jf^ 
fathers they could not bo of much V 
use to you. From the beginning to 
tho end of “getting off” you are 
hurried and worried. Tho ticket 
office is only opened a few minutes ; - - 
before the train le 
ibvob. Afteryou 
have secured your ticket you must 
have your baggage weighed, and “ tho 
man " gives you a ticket bearing tho 
amount of its weight and tho sum 
you must pay for its transportation. 
Then you must go Into a waiting- 
room for tlie first, second or third 
class passengers, as you may happen 
to be. When the train Is about, ready 
to move, the door of the flrst-oiafs 
waiting-room Is unlnckod and its In¬ 
mates rush to secure seats In the 
flrst-olasa carriages. Then I tie door 
of the second-class waiting-room is 
opened and l he inmates of that rush, 
etc., and then the third undergoes 
the same treatment, and then tho 
fourth, as on some of the German 
lines there are even fourth-class car¬ 
riages, which are simply pens open 
at tho top and without seats. Your 
friends, Jf you happen to have any, 
are not allowed to accompany you to 
tho cars to see you seated and to say 
good-by at the very last, moment, no 
matter If you happon to he the very 
forlornest of a forlorn female and 
have it bag mid a box and a shawl- 
strap and an umbrella to carry. 
Have I ever told you what a 
“dames seule«”is? On all Conti¬ 
nental railways there are usually one 
or two carriages placarded on tho 
outside With “ damns seules." or its 
tnreo months in Austria, and have 
now- got out of Austria unharmed to 
any serious extent, and all that, too, 
with very little aid from any man— 
and what I did have was a trial to 
my Christian patience I fed that I 
could brave the dangers of a balloon 
passage across Behring’s Straits.” 
When I left Baden— from where I 
last wrote — my good hcmxmeixterin 
■ l one Became, in the course of an hour 
I j or two, very curious In regard to the 
destination of the Viennese, but, as 
tiie latter spoke no French and the 
former no German, they borrowed 
me to do their talking, and, as there 
was no U nit to the Frenchwoman’s 
officiousness and none, seemingly, to 
| the good nature of the Viennese, 1 thought I - 
fore I was restored to quiet meditations in my 
mother langmi.c that I was nobody and noth¬ 
ing and could never again talk straight III tried. 
The last 1 saw oi the Frenchwoman and her 
protege, to whom she could not speak an Intel¬ 
ligible word, was tit Strasbourg, a.i they went 
directly to Paris, while I lingered to take a look 
at the Khinc ami make tho acquaintance of a 
city famed for Its cathedral aiul goosc-Iivor 
pies, und as tho place in which Guttknwcfio 
conducted his first experiments in printing. 
Strasbourg is neither French nor German, but 
about " half-and-half.” One man speaks French 
and not a word of German, and the next one 
you meet speak* German and no French. But 
It was a great consolation to have at length 
JOHN, A HALIFAX INDIAN - SKI 
looked at you and said “ good morning ” ex¬ 
pects a fee from you, you are more than ever in 
the dark as to the moaning of "service.” But 
i nirt.uomanclft. I told ’em I wouldn't. Then the 
man went off and brought a policeman, who 
proved to be the politest man I ever saw tn 
Vienna—which Isn’t much of a compliment- 
amt ho told me that fifty lertutzers was the reg¬ 
ular tax, that I would have to pay it or be taken 
to Jail and stay there the rest of my natural 
life, and after that spend the first half of my 
spiritual existence In Purgatory, and that I 
must decide tremendously quick or lose the 
train. 
Justice, righteousness, condemnation, and 
everything else noble and ignoble sank Into 
insignificance In comparison with losing the 
train and getting out of Austria. Tho policeman 
arrived where there was at least a French elo 
meat. Mary A. E. Wager. 
Paris. France, Sept., 1873. 
