HAT 
and assaults of the weather with remarkable 
equanimity. When you are bothered to 
know what to get for a suit, you can fall 
back on black alpaca with perfect serenity. 
Collni'x, CiiITn. Etc. 
Marie Stuart frills are made mostly of or¬ 
gandy, stitched with, black, and often edged 
with narrow footing stitched on with black, 
with black through the center. In making 
these frills, remember that they are graduat¬ 
ed mourning in widtli from the hack to the 
per yard, and making up very stylishly. 
Japanese pineapple silks, (not the real,) very 
airy and with strong liber, and barred with 
white or purple, are from forty to seventy- 
five cents per yard. Another better quality 
(perhaps the real) is in black, with ribbon 
stripes, throe-fourths of an inch wide and 
two or three inches apart, with hunches of 
white field flowers, or cereals thrown on the 
stripes, are “just as stylish as they can be,” 
and cost $ 1.23 per yard. Diamond grena¬ 
dine, all wool, of strong, rather 
close mesh, is sixty-five cents per 
yard. Serge grenadine is thicker, 
but both are worn from early in 
the season until late. Linen lawns, 
with small white figures, are thir¬ 
ty-seven and a-half cents. Black 
and white broken plaids are being 
revived. Black alpacas, and a 
great variety of mixed goods are 
worn in second mourning. White 
organdy or Swiss dresses arc al¬ 
ways admissible. With black 
crape trimmings, or when worn 
over black silk dresses, they are 
especially pretty. 
Coiflnre undMario Stiinri Frill*. 
This style of dressing the hair is 
becoming to many persons, espe¬ 
cially round-faced ones. Chate¬ 
laine braids at the hack, front hair 
crimped, and braids crossing the 
top, like a coronet. The dress 
waist Is heart-shaped, or pointed 
throat, with a White Swiss frill, 
- - ' 1 
edged with Valenciennes. The 
iA j dress trimming follows the point, 
IH' ; finishing square across under the 
; bow, or making a point at the belt. 
The neck may simply be turned 
under, and worn close, if one de¬ 
sires; flowing sleeves, taken in 
with a box-plait half-way between 
the elbow and end, with a bow on 
t, the plait, making the sabot sleeve. 
Muslin undersleeve, bordered with 
frills, to match the nock. Beeillus- 
Annwer* to C,'oi*i-i*npuii<lriit«. 
vYwk Minnie, eighteen, and in mourn- 
||i» ing, wants to know wlmt to gel 
KHsM for a suit, suitable for spring, sum- 
mer, and autumn, howto make 
it, how many yards, etc. Thirteen 
yards of crape cloth, or sixteen of 
Tamisc. The latter should lie 
trimmed with Itussian plaits, with 
a deep flounce of the same on the 
bottom of the skirt . Overskirt and 
short jacket, or basque. Waist 
with pointed throat, sleeve coat, 
with top puffs, wrap with flowing sleeves, 
and turn - back collar. White organdy 
frills at the throat and waist. Jet orna¬ 
ments, if any. Thin dresses of all col¬ 
ors, are mostly made with the spencer (Gari¬ 
baldi) waist. Narrow tape, or strips of the 
goods, should be used as stays along the 
shoulder and arm seams. 
Uuiubrlc Suits. 
Do not overlook them in your summer 
purchases. They cost only from $2.75 to 
$3.75 per suit. Brunettes should look at the 
pale bulT, or salmon. The basque and tunic 
are cut in deep scallops, or Vandykes, and 
bound with bias strips of the lower skirt, 
which is usually striped or checked. 
AH, DOST THOU REMEMBER 1 
be llfbtrtoer 
aimers 
'Twaa onco, long ngo. on the dawn-lighted river. 
Our fairy canoe rode like loam down tho tide; 
White llllea afloat with the ripples did quiver. 
But fairer than they was tho girl at my side. 
Now, dost thou remember?—ah. dost thou re¬ 
member 
The blossoms I wTOathed for that forehead of 
snow ? 
Forget tho dead leaves of Life's frosty December, 
And say, do wo love as we loved long ago? 
The robin with song tho glad morning was greeting ; 
No mist rolled above, tho young sun to eclipso: 
'* 1 love thee! I love theo!" my heart kept repeating, 
Till Love throbbed Us way from my heart to my 
Bps. 
Now, dost thou remember? —ah, dost thou re¬ 
member 
Tho blushes that mantled that forehead of 
snow ? 
Forget the wild winds or our frosty December, 
And say. do we lovo as we loved long ago? 
Oh, loud trilled the robin ! oh, bright was tho river: 
The lilies did dance on Its ripples In glee! 
'Neath thy low-drooping lids where the tear-drops did 
quiver, 
A smile, like thu sunrise, flashed answer to rao. 
Now, dost thou remember ?—ah, dost tliou re- 
member 
Tho kisses that fell on that forehead of snow ? 
Forget the dark days of our frosty December, 
And say, do we love as wo loved long ago ? 
'Twns long, long ngo ! all tho sunbeams are dying: 
Our roses have lost their rod loaves in the blast; 
But still thy swuet smile to my heart Is replying, 
*' Wo lovo as we loved In thu days that are past!" 
Thou still dost remember—oh, proudly remember 
Tho veil of thu brtdo on that forehead of snow , 
'Twill erown theo whoro Life has no frosty De¬ 
cember ; 
We always shall love as we loved long ago ! 
OUR FASHION ARTICLE, 
NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
Oafe Leave*: Contribution » In I*ro*e and 
Vtr**. (Now York: Frederick S. Newell.)— 
Now that Bnv ant has crowned his long literary 
life with ft translation of the “ Iliad,” and must 
soon be gathered to his fathers, it. is fitting that 
a new pool should appear, to divide tho honors 
with Longfellow, or Lowell, or Whittier as 
Laureate, to the people. The new poet, hereto¬ 
fore all unknown, lmt now bursting in splendor 
upon us from the modest muslin of this volume 
is—give car, O Goddess of Fame 2 and re-echo 
his name throughout all the land t— James E. 
WILDS*. Iudeed we are not quite sure hut a 
division of honors is henceforth rendered out 
of the question ; perhaps the puzzling problem 
of who the greatest American poet is may now 
be deilnltely settled, in the revelation that, a 
greater than Bryant, or Longfellow, or any 
of the others, is In our midst, and that he is 
known among men and muses as James E. 
Wn.nEV. "Oak Loaves” is not, a largo book, hut 
it contains thirty-six contributions in verse, and 
one in prose—the latter being a long descriptive 
article on Central Park. Of the poems, glitter¬ 
ing with i he light, of genius throughout, a few 
quotations will convey a more correct idea than 
can Hiiy analysis of ours. Tender sentiment 
prevails in “ Mid-Day Musings," written “in the 
wood, on the banks of the Dos Moines,” and 
this quartrain is seldom equaled in rhymed de¬ 
scription : 
■ Now ami then a tiny leaflet floats toward thesunny 
shore. , . , 
While beside It floats another, and behind It. many 
room. 
And upon the gravelled bottom little pebbles bright 
are seen 
Nestling aide by side together—all are pretty, all are 
clean.” 
The touch of the master is clearly apparent in 
the last fine, particularly. Or if not there, dif¬ 
ferences of opinion will obtain, always, — then 
hero, in the opening stanza of a story of sad mis¬ 
haps, entitled “The Unlucky Booster” — poeti¬ 
cally suggestive: 
• Tom Richards had a rooster, he was both black 
a 11 
lie was born in Alabama, upon a Friday night: 
Ilia comb was large and crimson, his gdls about the 
sum c: 
tils neck was curved and handsome, and Racer was 
his name. 
Chorus:— Ho was the greatest rooster. 
But an unlucky roaster, 
The most unlucky rooster 
That ever 1 did see.” 
We would quote further, did our apace permit. 
But we have room only to express one very 
serious regret -that paper imd inkabould be put 
to so very poor use as the disseminating of Mr. 
Willey's doggerel. 
Cf/rfopo dfa of ttlbUrot , Theological and 
H rclr*la»t leal /, Heratare. (New York: Har¬ 
per & Brothers.)—Volume Ilf. of this Invaluable 
work embraces the letters E, F, G, nod is pre¬ 
pared with I lie same care, and exhibits the same 
rare scholarship and profound research, that 
characterized its predecessors. Its 1,043 pages 
comprise an astonishing amount of information 
on topics relating to religious literature, and 
me embellished by numerous engravings, which 
greatly add to the interest mid value of the text. 
I>r. McCbfNTOi k's dentil, we are assured hy the 
publishers, will In no wise delay the succeeding 
volumes, us the main body of the work was pre¬ 
pared before any portion was put In type, and a 
revision of the separate art icles is only ueedod, 
to add the result of fresh researches and discov¬ 
eries in scholarship, to carry i | on to completion. 
It is expected that three or four more volumes 
will finish Hie alphabet. The whole work will 
form the most important and compact library 
of reference in tho English language for the 
student of the Bible, In accuracy of scholar¬ 
ship, comprehensiveness of plan, and fullness of 
detail and illustration, it will surpass every work 
of tho kind heretofore published. 
On!f/ a Uhl: Or a Hh/jaMan for the .Soul. 
il'hiladelphiu: .1. B. I.ippincott. & Co.)- ft is a 
trifle strange that while tho question of Wo¬ 
man's Sphere has been more earnestly discussed 
in this country than elsewhere, a novel bearing 
upon the same should come to us from Ger¬ 
many. But such is the ease. Tho present vol¬ 
ume, a plethoric 12-mo. Of 541 pages, translated 
from the German of Wjluklmine Von Hil- 
r.KtiN by Mrs. A. L. Wisteii, is a very ingenious, 
indeed a very strong, plea against tho unsexing 
of Woman. Deeply interesting, as a story, it is 
liurdIy less so ns a keen analysis of the feminine 
nature, and an illustration nf what that nature 
most needs. Ernestine UartwiCU, the hero¬ 
ine, is a rare portraiture, unique and full of 
power. Her ambitious find abilities are pecu¬ 
liarly tlioso of the class who laugh at womanly 
love as womanish sentiment, unlit for people of 
great intellect; and how satisfying they are is 
shown with a vividness so clear as to be even 
painful. That the volume will have a wide sale 
seems certain. 
The .Inter han Tune ttooli, (Boston: Oliver 
Ditson & Co.)—Five hundred teachers and choir 
leaders co operated in the editing of this work. 
Eiie.li made up a list of the tunes and anthems 
popular in his Ideality, and which had proved 
permanently useful, and from these the most 
worthy were selected, giving, as a consequence, 
the largest collection of thoroughly good church 
music ever put before the public. Every piece 
has boon fully tested; mid while tho volume 
may Jack freshuess, in thu estimation of some, 
It. has the better recommendation of positive 
merit, together with the charm of old asso¬ 
ciation and regard. Excellent. Elementary Ex¬ 
ercises, prepared by Dr. Lowell .Mason, and a 
goodly number of glees and part songs, serve to 
complete tho work. 
HV//I tie re of the Human Hod)/, (New York: 
Charles Seri Inter & Co.)—“ Prevention is better 
than cure." This is tho truest philosophy for all 
• mankind to bold to, as regards "the house we 
BY MINTWOOD 
Petticoats. 
White underskirts and body linen in 
general, revive the sway of embroidery in 
its amplest sense. It is put on 
plain, in gathered and plaited frills. 
It is headed by and alternated 
with, horizontal, perpendicular 
and diagonal tucks. Skirts are cut 
gored, with fullness at the back. 
Skirts for trained dresses are cut, 
off below the knee and finished 
with a Spanish flounce, deep at .,jf 
the back. Moreover, everything , , m 
is fluted. Graded flat-irons, the ijttM 
smallest not more than an inch or wW| 
two wide, to iron between ruffles tKI 
and trimming, and a fluting ma- Jjtt 
chine, have become essential to 
every well organized laundry. A 3^53 
pretty finish to the bottom of a 
skirt is a four-inch flounce or frill 
laid in half-inch Russian plaits. 
They iron down so nicely and 
easily. 
The Queen Costume. 
This costume (see illustration) is 
of two shades of mohair or alpaca. .. • 
The light is a fawn, or reddish 
yellow color, and the dark a choc- v , 
olate. The flounce at the bottom V 
laid in Russian plaits (side plaits) 
is fourteen inches wide. When ^ jT 
the bias fold of the light material ( 
is placed an inch or two below the Ig % 
top, no other heading is needed. , J| 
Hem both edges on the machine • v ,J§ 
line the flounce, sew a tape along > ; 
on the under side after the plaits- 
are pressed down, to keep them 
in place. Only the lining of the l jpfli 
skirt need continue under the i mtim 
flounce. The trimming of bias 
bands and narrower plaits rising to 
a Vandyke ou each side and fin- . Hfijjj 
islicd with a bow, may be dis¬ 
pensed with if desired. The front _ .'JHHl 
of the turtle is twenty inches long, Iksjli|o| 
nine inches wide at the top, and 
t wenty-one at the bottom. There ' 
are t wo narrow side gores and two -4= 
wholo width'- gathered at the 
back. The back widths are thirty- 
two inches long, cut out like a let¬ 
ter A at the back, and looped up 
with a bow. The entire circum¬ 
ference of the bottom of the tunic is 
eighty-six inches. The Jacket is square 
front, slashed up at the sides and back, and 
with straight half-open sleeves. One colored 
suit can be made after this style, substitut¬ 
ing velvet on satin for bias bands. Silver 
gray poplins with gray satin bands or piping. 
Black alpaca with bands of the same, or 
velvet.. Grass linen in ecrue or gray, with 
the bands edged with white, black, or scar¬ 
let braid. Cambric, ebambray, grenadine, 
Ac., may be made after this also. 
Jacket Illiistrutril. 
This wrap when made of black silk can 
be worn with any dress. Jt is exceedingly 
graceful and stylish. The fronts are caught 
together simply by a bow, which may be of 
satin or gros grain, in black or color. The 
front is cut rounding, following the 
fonts for 
Mrs. Dabcome sat down to dinner with 
her head throbbing painfully and her face 
heated scarlet. She had been at work hard, 
preparing that dinner, and now trusted that 
it was a success. Tt was not for company, 
or boarders, or hired help. There was only 
Mr. Dascome and herself; and the smell, 
the heat, and the exertion had made her so 
faint, and sick that she could not oat a 
mouthful. So the dinner was for Mr. Das- 
comK. It would not take the threc-aml- 
twenty years that she had cooked for him, 
to learn tho surest way to Ills favor. We 
might tell that at a glance by the greedy, 
gluttonous way in which be fell to work, as 
if he had forgotten everything but the din¬ 
ner ; aml so lie had, or rather it had never 
occurred to him that his wife was to be re¬ 
membered, except casually, or when she 
could be of service to him. But by-and-by, 
when he had eaten quite too much, and no 
longer ventured to fill his plate, but began 
a gradual leaving off by taking mouthfuls 
from the platters alternately, Mrs. Dascome 
ventured to attempt her part. It was not 
the liam, nor the beef, nor tho pudding, but 
a piece of dry bread, and- 
" Fred will be at the depot to-morrow.” 
“ So you told me before,” plunging his 
fork into the cabbage. 
“ The roads arc not very bad, are they?” 
“What do you suppose, in the middle of 
March ?” 
Mrs. Dascome saw that even his favorite 
“boiled dinner” would not. accomplish her 
object easily, but she persevered. 
“Jack Burrell said yesterday that the 
going was not near as bad as last week, and 
you know you got through without difficulty 
then.” 
“ Humph 1 And a hard, cold ride 1 had 
of it, too.” 
“ But I don’t sec how Fred is to get 
home; it is seven miles, and he is not used 
to walking; even if he was, there’s his 
trunk.” 
“His trunk can wait; and as for him, if 
he can’t walk that distance, he’d better 
wait till he can!” and Mr. Dascome shoved 
hack from the table and sat heavily down in 
his arm chair by the stove, and was soon 
nodding and dozing, his short black pipe al¬ 
most dropping from his mouth; while Mrs. 
Dascome gathered tip the fragments of the 
dinner, wondering what good it ever did 
that she tried to please him ? If it was her, 
she might, walk the seven miles, too, for all 
-“ No, I suppose he’d be sure to have me 
home at some rate,” thought the tired 
woman, “ for he could uot wait upon him¬ 
self.” 
Her work done, she sat down to the cheer¬ 
ful recreation of patching, while Mr. Das¬ 
come slept vociferously, starting up occa¬ 
sionally to regain position, to remind his 
wife that the fire needed replenishing, to re¬ 
mark that the pudding did not agree with 
him, or to hope that it was not going to 
grow cold, on account of his lambs. This 
was the Mr. Dascome who owned the 
“ White Chief,” of some small celebrity, and 
kept tho best breeds of fine-wool sheep iu 
the country. His sheep were very valuable, 
and the wool lie raised very valuable, and 
his neighbors said that he might be a rich 
man, only lie was a bad manager—too shift¬ 
less, too lazy. And going out from this 
call on the gentleman to look at his sur¬ 
roundings, we cannot doubt it. The 
THE qUEEN costume. 
almost pointed ends meeting in front. Black 
collars are made of crape or grenadine, laid 
in folds. English crape may be renovated 
by a process of steaming. If anybody knows 
bow it is done, a great favor will be con¬ 
ferred upon crape wearers by making it 
known, as crape is expensive. Linen collars 
are largely of the small navy shape, hound 
with a good quality of black alpaca, and 
the same peering from both edges of tho 
narrow bias fold of linen stitched just above 
the binding. In washing, do not boil them. 
Veils are worn long from bonnets, shorter 
from hats. A small piece of blue, green, 
gray, or lavender grenadine, Is worn to pro¬ 
tect the face, in lieu of drawing the crape veil 
over it , as one does not cure to be smothered, 
and then the moisture from the breathing 
spoils tbe crape. Jet, hair and steel jewelry 
are worn. 
Lace Wrappings. 
Black or white Llama shawls, very 
elaborate in design, range from $20 to 
$70. Very handsome ones, good enough 
for anybody, can he purchased for $40. 
These shawls arc worn draped, and 
clasp pins of jet, are used to fasten them 
on the shoulders. Crape shawls are 
similarly draped. Llama lace jackets 
and sacques are quite cheap, really hand¬ 
some ones being marked down as low 
as $8. Llama fichus range in price from 
$13 to $20. Long, loose, sleeveless 
sacqucs are made of dotted or figured 
black net lace, belted down, and trim¬ 
med around with real lace, with a nar¬ 
row light heading. These sacques have 
open, roundish fronts, or are square and 
closed to tbe bottom. In our Northern 
States Ififc wrappings are but little used 
for o\...uuor wear, on account of the 
short season of hot weather. 
Mourning floods. Jt 
First-class grief, as a wfdows, requires 
black bombazine with deep folds of 
English crape, cuffs, collar, bonnet and | 
veil of the same. The only white ad¬ 
missible is the white coronet or “ wid¬ 
ow’s cap ” in the bonnet. After a little, 
more white is introduced; bonnet ties, 
collar, neck-tie and cuffs of white. Next 
come suits in crape cloth, trimmed with 
folds of the same. Fifty to twenty- 
five cents per yard. Horge $1 per yard. 
Tamiso from $1 to $1.25 per yard. In 
lighter goods the black and white striped 
and checked Japanese poplins, handsome as 
silk, twenty inches wide, from $1 to $1,25 
Ancient Hair Dressing. — The Pom¬ 
peiian women wore wigs and chignons made 
of the long yellow hair of the Germans, or 
A BLACK SILK JACKET. 
curve up the back to the waist. The trim¬ 
ming of this is elaborate. The edge is first 
cut up all around in short straps or slits, and 
bound with satin, Every alternate one is 
turned up and caught at the end, forming a 
loop. Under these is a frill or row of 
guipure or thread lace. See illustration. 
Wliat Alpaca to Buy, 
A handsome black silk suit costs, includ¬ 
ing the making, not less than $100. A 
handsome black alpaca costs from $20 to 
$25, including everything, from fourteen to 
eighteen yards being required. The “Buf¬ 
falo” and “ Beaver” brands of alpaca, can 
always be relied upon for beauty of fabric 
and durability. The “ Beaver” brand is of 
pure mohair, and has a body and luster like 
silk. The“ Buffalo” is part wool, but wears 
equally as well, and is somewhat less ex¬ 
pensive. Either bears tho ravages of time 
COIFFURE AND FRILLS. 
gave to their natural hair a yellowish tinge 
by means of a Gallic soap. A famous orien¬ 
tal pomade, with which they saturated their 
hair, and then sat for hours in the sun, also 
transmuted their ebony tresses iuto gold. 
