knifo blade for this purpose. If the bark 
attached to the bud does not go entirely 
under the bark of the stock, it may be cut 
square across at the cross-cut in stock, and 
if pulled out afterwards it would appear 
somewhat like the one shown in figure 3. 
The blld should now be tied-in by win,ling 
the stock above and below the bud as shown 
in figure h covering the incision in the stock 
but not the point of the bud. All that is 
requisite is to hold the bud firmly against 
the w ood of the stock until a union between 
the two occurs Which will usually be within 
two weeks if at all, when the bass or yam 
should be removed, or at least loosened, in 
order to permit, n free circulation of sap. If 
it is desirable to have the buds push into 
j growth immediately pinch off the ends of 
the top shoots of the stock, but do not cut 
them back until the bud has made a growth 
of a few inches. Boon after the buds have 
pushed the entire top of the stock above the 
bud may be cut away, leaving about an inch 
above the l>ud. Remove all suckers which 
may appear on the stock below the buds, in 
The implements and materials required for 
this operation are, first, a budding knife ; 
but if one made expressly for the purpose 
cannot be obtained, almost any small blade 
of a pocket-knife will answer, provided it is 
sharp and thin. Some bass bark will be very 
handy and useful for tying-in the buds, but 
woolen yam or cotton candle wicking will 
do almost, or quite, as well. We always like 
to give the novice as much latitude in these 
matters as possible, because he is prone to 
think that budding and grafting is an art 
requiring a great deal of experience, skill 
and peculiar implements for manipulation ; 
but they are, in tact, very simple operations. 
Supposing that everything is in readiness 
we cut off one or more branches containing 
FRUITS IN VERMONT 
BUDDING ROSES 
At a recent farmers’ meeting in connec¬ 
tion with the State Board of Agriculture of 
Vermont, Mr. C. G. Pringle read a paper on 
“ Fruits for Family Use,” in which ho named 
the following, which, with the discussion 
following, we find in the Vermont Farmer : 
The Early Harvest (not hardy), Tetofsky, 
Red Astrachan, Sweet Bough (not hardy), 
Curtis Sweet (a Vermont variety), Pringle 
Sweet Siberian, Sops of Wine, Early Joe 
(very rich tlavor), Primate, lienom, Porter, 
Gravenstein, Duchess of Oldenburgh, Fam- 
euse, St. Lawrence, Burlington Pippin, Fall 
Orange, Munson Sweet, Lyman’s Pumpkin 
Sweet, Hubbardson Nonesuch (tcuder), Swaar 
(excellent but shy bearer), Yellow Bellefleur, 
King of Tompkins Co. (not hardy), Talman 
Sweet, Toadies’ Winter Sweet, Northern Spy, 
Ramsdell Sweet. Wagner, R, I. Greening, 
Golden Russet of New-York, Of pears— 
Doyenne d’Ete, Tyson, Clapp’s Favorite, 
Bartlett (not hardy), Belle Lucrative, Buf- 
fum, Flemish Beauty, Seckel, Sheldon, How¬ 
ell, Goodale, Bourre d'Anjou, Mt. Vernon, 
Josephine of Malines, Winter Nehs, East&r 
Bourne. Of plums—Lombard, Coe’s Golden 
Drop, McLaughlin, Duane’s Purple, and other 
varieties were named. Dr. Bend of Corn¬ 
wall asked if Mr. Pringle purposely omitted 
the Tinmouth apple. Mr. Pringle said no, 
but accidentally ; it is excellent, though not 
a goud shipping apple. Mr. Roberts of Ver- 
gennes said he had shipped the Tinmouth as 
lady’ readers; the. gentlemen can profit by 
it if they choose to do so. Of course florists 
and gardeners know all about it, and our 
remarks are not iufcended for them in any 
manner whatever. 
To increase the vigor of the weak-growing 
varieties of roses, or to bring the tardy¬ 
blooming sorts forward, we have only to bud 
them upon strong-growing kinds. Formerly 
this system of propagation was far more ex¬ 
tensively practiced than at present, as bud¬ 
ded roses liuve, in a great measure, become 
unpopular for garden culture mainly be¬ 
cause if the top winter-killed the plant be- | 
came worthless. Another objection to them 
was that the stocks upon which choice sorts 
were worked were very likely to throw up 
suckers from the roots, and if these were not 
removed they would soon rob the graft of 
all nut riment and it would then perish, the 
amateur who had purchased flue sorts soon 
finding that they had disappeared in some 
mysterious manner and nothing remained 
but rampant-growing varieties, with single 
or semi-double flowers. It is, therefore, 
owing in part to the ignorance of the masses 
in this country in regard to faking proper 
care of budded roses that they have almost 
gone out of cultivation. While we agree 
that the change from budded roses to those 
on t heir own roots has. upon t he whole, beeu 
a good one, still they have a place in flori¬ 
culture which cannot be very readily filled 
by any other style of plants, and we hope 
the lady readers of the Rural Nbw-Yorkkr 
will try their hand at budding roses this 
coming treason and see if we are not cor¬ 
rect in claiming for them, in particular in¬ 
stances, a great, superiority over plants 
FLORICULTURAL N0TE8 
Justicia ; but we cannot make it out from 
so small a specimen. We would also remind 
our correspondent that what are termed 
florists’ flowers, are just about the last things 
on the catalogue for any one to identify 
from dried specimens. Most of them are 
hybrids and crosses, and ho fur removed by 
cultivation from the original species that a 
botanist will not have anything to do with 
them. The innumerable names and varieties 
preclude any possibility of recognition of 
distinctive characters in f many of the fam¬ 
ilies. 
Tliri/ps on Azaleas— (P. R. T.).—Fumigate 
your plants with tobacco smoke. It is ef¬ 
fective. 
OWNING UP 
propose to w ork (ouu) me cnoice tenner ana 
feeble-growing monthly roses, consisting of 
Teas, Bourbons, and other kinds which come 
under this rather general name. 
If the varieties which it is desirable to 
multiply are growing iu the house, so much 
the better, because buds suitable for insert¬ 
ing upon the stocks in the garden can be 
obtained from them much earlier than from 
plants growing in the open ground. 
As soon as the stocks begin to throw out 
new shoots and leaves in spring they will be 
ready to bud, and the next thing to be looked 
after is buds in proper condition for use. 
Suitable buds are only to be found upon the 
young shoots of the present season’s growth ; 
usually one, two. or more may be obtained 
on the same branch from which a flower has 
been taken, only wait two or three days 
after the flower has beeu removed, in order 
that the buds shall be plump and well devel¬ 
oped . If there are no flower stems, but 
young, thrifty and barren shoots, pinch off 
the ends of one or more of these, which will 
put the buds in a proper condition in a week 
at farthest. 
The buds are to be found at the base of a 
leaf stalk, and although ever so small it may 
be removed and made to unite with the stock 
upon which it is placed in budding. 
Now we v/ill suppose the stocks have com¬ 
menced growth, and by making an incision 
through tins bark we find the latter can be 
readily separated or lifted from the wood ; if 
so, then they are in proper condition for 
budding. 
SCIENTIFIC AND U8EFUL NOTES 
PoinonouH A niline. Dy< in Candle*. —W. 1 
Ward, Cleveland, O., writes to the Scientific 
American as follows s—“ I fully agi’ee with 
you that aniline dyes should not be used in 
candies. I recently ate about three inches 
of stick candy, of a red color, and was taken 
sick with a burning pain in the stomach and 
upper intestines. I grew worse; in three 
days 1 was ndt able to walk without beiog 
faint and giddy, and had much pain all the 
time. A doctor prescribed for a case of 
aniline poisoning, and three doses of medi¬ 
cine put me out of danger. 1 am uow about 
well again.” 
For Makhno lllack Ink.— Take a clean ket¬ 
tle and put in it five quarts of rain water ; 
put it on the fire and let if come to a boil ; 
then add three ounces of the extract of log¬ 
wood ; stir it until it dissolves : then add 
one-eighth of an ounce of the bichromate of 
potash ; when it is dissolved it is fit for use. 
—Loots. 
To Keep Mice Out of a Corn Crib, a Ken¬ 
tucky farmer is said to employ a snake 
which he kept shut up in his corn crib for 
two years, and not a mouse was seen there. 
What did the snake live upon ? 
Fig. 4. 
bringing out about, the same distance above 
the bud as shown at (c) figure % the bud 
being kept from falling by pressing the 
thumb upon it. The upper edges of the bark 
iu the incision made in the stock should be 
slightly raised in order to allow the point of 
the bark upon which the bud is situated to 
enter ; then crowd it down under the bark 
and into place. The ivory handles of bud¬ 
ding knives are used for lifting the bark of 
the stock, but we have not used one of these 
for twenty years, preferring a rpund .pointed 
