I* 
of my party —r lady and gentleman—hove 
worn garments thus made in the wildest 
storms of wind and rain, without getting 
wet. The rain hangs upon the doth in 
globules. In short, they were really water¬ 
proof. The gentleman, a fortnight ago, 
walked nine miles in a storm of rain and 
wind, such as you rarely see in the south, 
and, when he slipped oil liis overcoat, his 
uuderwear was as dry tvs when he put them 
on. Thisis, I think, a secret worth knowing; 
for cloth, if it can be made to keep out wet, 
is, in every way, better than what we know 
as most water-proofs. 
onaises and underskirts trimmed with a bias 
•flounce. 
Tlaid goods, especially in shades of blue 
and green, with possibly a cord of red, white 
or yellow, are worn by school girls. The 
waists are French or basques butt oned in the 
back. The kilfc-plaiting on the back is very 
deep, say two-thirds of the skirt, and the 
overdress is very much like a scarf looped in 
the back. 
HATS. 
The shapes of hats were never so pro¬ 
nounced. At present, felt only is worn, and 
the preference is for gray, very light in tint. 
Many of these hats require high crowns and 
broad, straight brims ; others are low, with 
rolling brims turned backward from the 
front, all around or only one side. For dress 
these lighter hats are trimmed with a scarf 
Of tulle and a long gray feather. Flowers 
are not adapted to felt, or ostrich feathers in 
fact; more suitable are scarfs of silk and 
velvet, birds and Wings. The felt hat most 
worn Is rather low-crowned, with wide, roll¬ 
ing brim turned up all around and caught 
high on the sides. This is bound with volvet, 
has a velvet band on the crown, and a bow 
on tlio side holding two feathers which hang 
loosely over the back, or a gay bird holds the 
bow. Hats turned up in front are fastened 
with a bird or a knot of roses, generally 
crimson, dark in hue. 
For ladies there are bonnets ; those are 
fashioned with comfortable crowns and a 
flaring brim which, from its effect, Is called 
a “ halo." Those bonnets are trimmed with 
a long feather which, fastened near the top, 
sweeps gracefully down to the shoulder. 
Feather bands line the inside of the “halo” 
bonnet and the flaring brims of hats. Flow¬ 
ers are used in profusion ; large bunches of 
mixed buds are placed on the sides ; bunches 
of roses, deep reds and yellows, clustered to¬ 
gether ; crushed roses, tea roses, and berries 
with russet leaves are placed wherever flow¬ 
ers can go. .Tet bandeaux, darts, buckles 
and delicate sprays are used and, still better, 
jet galloon to outline brim sand crown. Blue 
jet is worn, but not so generally as was anfcici 
pated. One piece, however, as a dart, or 
buckle, may be introduced with good effect. 
For winter, velvet bonnets will resume 
their place. They will be made with stiff 
crowns, the velvet placed over them, instead 
of with the soft crowns so long popular. 
Their trimming will be jet, ostrich feathers 
and roses. 
NOVELTIES. 
Veils are pieces of Brussels not a quarter 
of a yard deep, with beads of jet, or blue jet, 
and without, hem. The ruff has given place 
to the straight-standing collar. The neck is 
Still very high, and fluted ruffles of thin shirr 
material are worn 
TIRED NATURE’S SWEET RESTORER 
SAVING THE COFFEE GROUNDS 
A writer says “ Sleep is a positive ne¬ 
cessity. It is a period of recuperation, during 
which there is a restoration of what has 
suffered collapse, waste, or disturbance 
during the period of waking activity. The 
tired brain and aching muscles regain by 
rest strength, and power to obey the man¬ 
dates of the will. The demands of the ma¬ 
terial form for re: t. are so great as to often 
defy the action or the mind. During the 
cholera Summer of 1810, while practicing in 
the country, so constant and fatiguing wore 
my professional labors that I have often 
ridden for miles on horseback Hound asleep. 
Almost every physician in active practice 
during poriods of epidemics, when his 
strength was taxed to the utmost, has 
dropped into a sleep, as I have done many 
times while walking the streots. During the 
battle of the Nile many of the boys engaged 
in handling ammunition fell asleep, even 
while the roar of the brttle was going on 
around them. It is said in tlio rotreat to 
Corunna whole battalions of infantry slept 
while in rapid march. Even the most acute 
bodily sufferings are not always sufficient, to 
prevent sleep. The worn-out frame of tho 
victim of the Inquisition has yielded to Its 
influences in the pause of his tortures upon 
the rack, and for a moment he has forgotten 
his sufferings. The Indian burned at the 
stake, in the interval between the prelimi¬ 
nary torture and the lighting of the fire, has 
sweetly slumbered, and been only aroused 
by the flame which was to consume him 
curling around him." 
As commonly made, the infusion of coffee 
which we drink contains not more than 
twenty per cent, of the substance which 
compose the berry. Of the remaining eighty 
parts, which we throw away as “grounds” 
about thirty-four are woody matter without 
nutritive value. The rest, or forty-six parts 
out of the hundred, contain in large propor¬ 
tions nitrogenous matters, fats and mineral 
salts, demonstrably useful for tho nourish¬ 
ment of nerves, muscles and bones. In other 
words, by our mode of making coffee, we 
lose more than half its available and valua¬ 
ble constituents. Considering the tons of 
coffee imported every year, this wholesale 
wastefulness becomes a matter of considera¬ 
ble magnitude, this, of course, only on con- 
condition that the rejected matter can be 
used with pleasure and profit. That it can 
be so used is shown by the practice of the 
Turks, who make coffee as wo do ohocolate. 
The coffee, finely powdered, is drunk with 
the infusion. In this way all the stimulating 
qualities of the infusion are secured, with 
the full aroma and all the nutritious ele¬ 
ment * of the berry. It is perhaps needless 
to add that, for use in this way, the coffee 
must bo reduced to on impalpable powdet. 
To those unaccustomed to use Oriental cof¬ 
fee, the limpid infusion may seem to be 
prelerrc l. As a stimulating drink, it is un¬ 
doubtedly preferable, but tho good qualities 
of coffee are not exhausted with the infusion ; 
and as a matter of economy, it may bo worth 
while to sacrifice limpidity for nutrition. 
Besides, a s one becomes accustomed to thick 
chocolate and loams to like it more than the 
clear infusion of the cocoa bean, so, it is 
claimed, the taste for cafe, a V Orientate may 
be acquired, with a corresponding improve¬ 
ment in the beverage. 
WINTER DRESSES 
The preference for winter walking dresses 
is marked for heavy, rough goods, or rough 
goods apparently heavy. Many of those are 
woven to Imitate tho diagonal cloth and 
cheviot of which men's clothes are made, 
and while by no means burdensome, have 
that warm, comfortable look which belongs 
to winter costumes. Many of these are in 
mixed colors, especially dark brown, with 
threads of gold, and gray and black. Others 
are dark blue, and of course black is always 
fashionable. The newest and most stylish 
goods are plaid cloths in broken cheeks in 
two shades, as dark and light brown, or 
two shades almost melting into one another. 
These plaids are made up with a solid color, 
generally dark brown, or with mixed goods. 
Tho making is naturally an artistic per¬ 
formance. The underdress, which is simply 
trimmed, usually with a deep kilt-plaiting or 
a bias flounce with eight or nine shirrs. The 
overdress is made of the plaid, with a long 
apron front turned up with several rows of 
stitching ; the back lias scarf ends, looped. 
The basqe is short and round, with stitching 
on the bottom. Down the center of the 
basque in the back is a shape cut like the 
center portion of the back, but extending 
from the shoulders instead of the side seams ; 
this is stitched on with good effect. This 
piece i* to be of the solid color, as arc the 
sleeves, which fit closely to the arm. But¬ 
tons are of smoked pearl. 
Dark green goods in plaids or diagonal 
lines make up handsomely in polonaises, 
with basque backs and the overskirt shir¬ 
red on in a dozen lines. Two rows of old 
silver buttons trim the polonaise in front. 
Cashmeres ore not so popular, but are still 
worn. They are usually made up over silk 
skirts and are trimmed with silk. Seal 
brown is the fashionable shade. Black cash- 
mere polonaise jackets and overskirts, em¬ 
broidered and heavily beaded, are still fash¬ 
ionable. They should be worn over black 
silk only. 
Black silks are reasonably low, American 
silks, very much improved in quality and 
very pretty In appearance, sell at £2. Vari¬ 
ous grades of French silks range from ?1.75 
to 88. Heavy silks are not so much sought 
after, and the old-fashioned taffetas are very 
much worn. Lighter qualities of silk make 
up the prettiest with shirred flounces and 
jot trimmings. Heavy silks are mingled 
with velvet, which is often beaded. 
The same fashions a little elaborated are 
used for silks as other light materials. The 
sleeves are close, the cuirass bodice a favor¬ 
ite. The collar is standing and slightly flar¬ 
ing in front. The apron front and plaited 
back are most suitable for younger people ; 
and the tablier front, perfectly plain, with 
the exception of a bias fold, as if the dress 
was fastened down the front, trimmmed 
with jot and beaded buttons, and revert* on 
the sides, for elderly ladies. All ilresses are 
SUNLIGHT A NECESSITY 
Hun-uatiis cost nothing, and are the most 
refreshing, life giving baths that one can 
take, whether sick or well. Every house¬ 
keeper knows the necessity of giving her 
woolens the benefits of the sun, from time to 
time, especially after a long absence of the 
sun. Many will think of the injury their 
clothes are liable to, from dampness, who 
will never reflect that an occasional exposure 
of their own bodies to the sunlight is neces¬ 
sary to their own health. The sun-baths 
cost nothing, and that is a misfortune, for 
people are still deluded with the idea that 
those things only can he good or useful which 
cost, money. Let it not be forgotten that 
three of God’s most beneficent gifts to man 
three things tho most necessary to good 
health- sunlight, fresh air and water, are 
free to all ; you can have them in abundance, 
without money and without price, if you 
will. If you would enjoy good health, then 
see to it that you are supplied with pure air 
to breathe all the time ; that you bathe for 
an hour or so in the sunlight; and that you 
quench your thirst with no other fluid than 
water .—Journal of Health. 
CANNING T0MAT0E8 
Tub process of canning tomatoes on a large 
scale as practiced by a firm in Elizabeth, N. 
J., is thus described by a local paper, the 
firm noticed employing some sixty girls, and 
putting up 2,000 to 2,500 cans per day ; 
“The process of canning tomatoes may be 
briefly described as Pillowsafter being 
carefully washed, they are placed in a per¬ 
forated pan of capacity equal to the muscular 
power of one stalwart, individual, and im¬ 
mersed into one of the caldror.s of boiling 
water over the furnace. Here they are left 
for the period of about one minute, or one 
minute and a half, until the rind is scalded, 
tho pulp remaining unaffected by the hot 
water. They are then taken quickly to the 
tables, the rind as quickly peeled off, the 
water, of which the inside of a tomato is 
largely composed, being allowed to run off In 
separate vessels, and the solid pulp pressed 
into cans through the oponing about one inch 
in diameter at the top. Some idea of tho 
amount of water in a tomato may be formed 
from the statement that from 400 to 000 
gallotl* of this waste material is produced 
daily in this single establishment. As rapidly 
as possible after the cans are filled they are 
closed and soldered, and then placed in 
another pan and again immersed in boiling 
water. This part of the process is for the 
purpose of extricating every particle of air 
which may have been forced into the cans 
with the pulp ; and as soon as they swell 
they are taken from the water and perforated 
by a sharp instrument like an awl. Through 
the aperture thus formed the air escapes, 
and the opening is immediately resealed. 
The cans must then be again tested in water, 
and if they do not again swell they are air 
tight and ready for market. The whole 
process must last not more than ten minutes." 
Fans, though not so large 
as worn some time ago, are still of sufficient, 
size. They are now an important, article of 
a lady’s dress. The most beautiful are of lace 
on pearl sticks, white satin, painted la elegant 
designs, or the peacock fan with handles of 
sandal wood and tassels of scarlet and gold. 
The prettiest chatelaine fora fan is a ribbon 
of SU(table shade fastened at the belt in a bow. 
Close sleeves, scalloped on the outside seam 
and buttoning over, are very pretty. The 
upper end should also be scalloped and but¬ 
toned up on to the shoulder. Crepe lisse is 
the favorite ruffling. A new variety is double, 
iinely crimped and furnished with a plaiting 
of white silk. Fluted ruffles of Malines lace 
are worn with jabots of the same material. 
Dark, crimson neckties of soft-twilled silk 
are very fashionable. Neckties of China 
crepe are trimmed with Valenciennes and 
have Valenciennes inserting let in. Mate! 
asse, the new silk resembling quilted silk, 
now comes beaded. It will be used as the 
tablier of dresses and for outside wraps, 
for which It is especially suitable. 
Fur trimining will be as popular this win¬ 
ter as last. Silver fox, chinchilla, black mar¬ 
ten and aatrakau will bo used with grebe for 
children’s garments. 
TRAVfllflQ COSTUME. 
The traveling costume illustrated on page 
36‘J may be made either of blue serge or the 
lighter make of homespun. The trimmings 
are black Titan braid and black japanned 
buttons. The derni - fitting jacket opens 
slightly heart-shaped in front, and has an 
upright, frill of the. same lined with silk. 
The pockets on the side pieces arc lined with 
silk and trimmed with braid. Braid is laid 
on tho sleeve to simulate a deep cuff ; a gath¬ 
ered flounce with heading borders the skirt, 
over whieli a tunic is draped. The tunic is 
long in front and short at the back. 
EXHAUSTION OF THE BRAIN. 
Dr. Redcliffe, in his recent Croonian 
lectures, is reported to have discussed, at 
much length and very accurately, the subject 
of brain exhaustion, so common at the present 
day. After describing Lho leading symptoms 
such as loss of memory, depression of spirits, 
increased or lessened sleeplessness, unusual 
irritability, epileptiform condition of the 
nerves, and sometimes transitory coma, he 
argues against urging the patient to eat 
heartily, believing that such a practice tends 
to develop the disease ; lie equally opposes 
the training diet system, as generally starv¬ 
ing the nerve tissues by excluding tho hydro¬ 
carbons from food. Nor should the patients 
be urged to work more than is natural under 
the circumstances, nor to rest, from head- 
work, in many cases cerebral exhaustion 
being intensified by the brain lying fallow ; 
if there is undue sleeplessness, the head 
should lie low on the pillow, and if undue 
sleepiness, it. should be kept high. 
GARMENTS MADE WATER-PROOF 
Curing Burns. —Comte de la Tour du Pui 
publishes the following for tho benefit of the 
world at large. He says that a pretty strong 
solution of ammonia in water is an excellent 
remedy for burns in cases where the skin is 
not destroyed, and as " much trouble doth 
environ those who meddlo with hot iron,” 
our readers are peculiarly interested in such 
remedies. The count suys, that having by 
accident taken hold of a crucible which was 
Dress Bonnets are simply inverted flower 
baskets. The gypsy shape admired in Paris 
has two plumes hid back from tlio face, and 
the arched brim filled with variegated rose¬ 
buds, pale, pink, and purple, of large size. 
his hand into some iminoniacal water, and 
kept it some hours afterwards covered with 
a piece of linen soaked in the same ; the pain 
I was allayed almost immediately, ana no 
1 blisters or suppuration occurred. 
