SEPT. 4 
MOORE’S RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
155 
,§8ii[;g ittslmndrg. 
THE OLEOMARGARINE CHEESE QUES- 
TION. 
During our recent visit to California and 
other States west of the Mississippi, the 
American Grocer has been active in its de¬ 
nunciation of Oleomargarine and its use in 
cheeBQ manufacture, and it. takes especial 
pains, it seems to us, to misrepresent our 
position upon tins question, in a former 
number of the Rural we pointed out some 
errors of statement made by the Grocer and 
its correspondents, and at the same time wo 
took occasion to say that the improvement of 
skimmed milk by the use of oleomargarine 
in cheese manufact ure was not, in our opin¬ 
ion, a fraud, and that this effort for the im¬ 
provement of our skimmed milk manufac¬ 
ture deserved something better than abuse 
and denunciation, in addition we simply 
gave the facts concerning the manufacture 
and quality of choose that could be made un¬ 
der this process, urging, as we always have in 
these columns, that it should go upon the 
market under its own distinctive name aild 
not otherwise. 
The Grocer, in reply, seemed readily to 
agree with us and to admit that there were 
no material points of difference between ns 
in the positions taken, and that all that it 
(the Grocer) wanted was that the goods be 
properly brhnded with their own name when 
put upon tho market. But the Grocer in its 
subsequent, articles and comments appears to 
have gone back to its original plan of de¬ 
nunciation, and it affirms that “ it is Mr. 
WILLARD, Prof. CaLDwkll anil other emi¬ 
nent gentlemen who use as an argument 
that such cheese are as good and should he¬ 
ns acceptable as tho full cream cheese,” &e. 
It Is curious, also, to note the misstate¬ 
ments of the Grocer’s correspondents. Tims, 
Harris Lewis of Frankfort, N. Y. (errone¬ 
ously named by the Grocer as President of 
the Western New York Dairymen’s Asso¬ 
ciation), says, in speaking of oleomargarine 
cheese and tho last annual meeting of the 
American Dairymen’s Association, as fol¬ 
lows : 
“There was also found X. A. Willard, 
who has done more for the American dairy¬ 
men than any other man, by way of gather¬ 
ing together and presenting in readable form 
what all our best dairymen have said anil 
dono for the last ten or twelve years, fie 
also went in for grease (oleomargarine) in¬ 
stead of cream.” This is a slight mistake, 
as Mr. Willard made no speeches in the 
Convention on the oleomargarine question. 
Perhaps the Grocer, which is so down on 
skimmed milk cheese as “a fraud,” maybe 
edified in learning that Mr. Lewis lias been 
accustomed to skim his night’s milk, and 
mingling it with the morning’s milk, make a 
cheese which, as he has often stated in Con¬ 
ventions, the dealers could not tell from 
“ whole-milk cheese.” 
Again, another correspondent of the Gro¬ 
cer speaks of “the oleomargarine admixture 
being supported by Professors Caldwell 
and Willard, who have always been regard¬ 
ed as instructors of the dairymen.” “They 
are,” lie says, “doubtless honest in their 
opinions; but it must be remembered that 
neither are practio d dairymen or merchants, 
and therefore their opinions are entitled to 
no more weight than tho*e of the manufac¬ 
turers of oleomargarine.” 
With all modesty we may say for the in¬ 
formation of this correspondent and the 
Grocer that Mr. Willard is, and has been, 
the owner of a dairy farm and lias been a 
practical dairymen for more than 20 years, 
and that nearly every improvement that has 
been made in dairy practice during that time 
he lias verified with bis own hands In the vat 
and has been among the first to announce 
thesame in print. We have labored earnestly 
for the advancement of the dairy interest for 
the last twenty years, and it is our honest 
conviction that the improvement of skim 
cheese manufacture by tho uso of oleomar¬ 
garine does not imperil the reputation of 
American cheese, at home or abroad, since 
cheese in the future, as in the past, will con¬ 
tinue to be bought upon its merits. 
Of course the great argument of the Grocer 
and its correspondents in this matter is that 
oleomargarine is made of refuse grease, cot¬ 
ton seed oil, horse fat and other abominations, 
thus impressing the public with the idea that 
an unhealthful and disgustingly nasty food 
is being pushed upon consumers. Now, if 
such were the facts in the manufacture of 
oleomargarine we should be opposed to its 
use, aud we have called upon the Grocer for 
proof, but it, does not give it. The oleomar¬ 
garine factories affirm that their goods are 
made from the fat of cattle slaughtered for 
food, and that every part of the process is 
conducted with scrupulous neatness. These 
factories are open to inspection, and if there 
is anything unhealthfnl or unclcau in oleo¬ 
margarine, surely the Grocer ought by this 
time to be able to give us the facts. The 
notion, too, that oleomargarine choesc is the 
cause of the present decline and low price of 
cheese of all sorts is simply nonsense, since 
the quantity made Is too insignificant to have 
any controlling influence In any of our lead¬ 
ing markets. 'The position which we take 
in this matter is that of progress. We are in 
favor of improvement in whole-milk manu¬ 
facture and in skim-milk manufacture ; and 
il a better, more palatable and more health¬ 
ful cheese can be made from skimmed milk 
by tho use of oleomargarine, then we say 
nso the oleomargarine for t hat purpose. We 
should be glad to see every branch of the 
dairy made more perfect. We have seen the 
cheese and butter interest of this country 
rise step by step from small beginnings to 
their present grand proportions, and wo be¬ 
lieve our dairy products arc to attain a still 
higher grade of excellence ; and whenever 
we are convinced that the use of oleomar¬ 
garine in skimmed milk does not improve 
the character of skim cheese, or that it is 
unhealtliful to consumers, or is an injury to 
the dairy interest of the country, we shall 
use our influence against it. li the Grocer is 
really seeking to do the good that it claims 
and not simply a temporary notoriety, lot it 
drop jts unmeaning denunciation and give 
facts. VV ho are tho dealers or consumers 
who complain of oleomargarine cheese? 
Who are the men who use horse fat aud 
soap grease in the manufacture of oleomar¬ 
garine i If there is any case where oleo¬ 
margarine cheese lias proved unhealtliful, 
let it be pointed out. *mse things, if they 
could be proven, would toll with far greater 
force on the public than in charging Prof. 
Caldwell and ourselves with damaging the 
dairy interest, simply because a scientific 
fact has been given. Wo have not advised 
the manufacture of oleomargine, and have 
no interestinitssuccess or failure. We have 
truthfully stated what may bo done with it 
in skint cheese manufacture, and those facts 
all well-informed and progressive dairymen 
will consider useful information. 
In conclusion, wo present the following 
extracts from the Meadvillc (Fa.) Republican 
on this question, Tt says : 
“ For some time past there has boon a con¬ 
troversy going on between tho American 
Grocer and tho Rural New Yorker, the 
latter sustained by tho Utica Herald, on the 
merits or demerits of oleomargarine cheese 
made by the substitution of melted oleomar¬ 
garine for the natural cream in the curds. 
While Mr. Willard regards the product as 
a great, improvement over ordinary skim 
ohe.’so, and would encourage its manufac¬ 
ture, the Grocer, whoso special mission in 
the commercial world is to encourage honest, 
square dealing, and discourage and ferret 
out frauds in false brands, short weights, 
scant measures and adulteration, for which 
greatly needed work of reformation it is 
especially endowed, possessing a keen scent 
for frauds, looking upon the use of oleomar¬ 
garine in cheese as a dangerous adulteration, 
plants it-elf squarely against, and demands 
that such cheese shall go upon the markets 
only under its true name as “oleomargarine 
cheese.” While wc deprecate any encourage¬ 
ment to tho already overdone practice of 
skimming, wo still appreciate the motive 
which prompts Mr. Willard to speak favor¬ 
ably of the oleomargarine product as a step 
toward the improvement of skim cheese. 
Wo believe no man more than lie, would re¬ 
joice to see the standard of American cheese, 
raised, and the bulk of American cheese up 
to the standard. It fafogyism to assume that 
there will never be such improvements made 
in the manufacture of skim cheese as shall 
render the product equal in quality, and 
therefore in intrinsic value to the present 
standard of full cheese. There are abundant 
indications of an active spirit of improve¬ 
ment umongcheese makers pointing towards 
this achievement, and ic is the true policy of 
progressive dairymen to encourage this 
spirit. For myself, 1 am loath to condemn 
the experiment of olmmargarine cheeso ex¬ 
cept as it may claim to be the ultimatum. 
“ I regard it merely as an experiment, a 
step towards the ideal, which may possibly 
convey a hint to some ingenious mind, and 
lead to other steps. This is the only light in 
which i believe the invention to be of prac¬ 
tical value to the dairy world. In this view 
I can heartly stand by those who defend it, 
but in the view that as it now appears it is 
desirable to extend the establishment of 
these factories and their products, I can but 
number myself among those who would re¬ 
strict it to the legitimate limits, and require 
it to go before the world only on whatever 
merit it may possess. If it can establish it 3 
claim of greater excellence than average full 
cream cheese, it will be no detriment to its 
introduction to compel it to sail under its 
own colors. But if, as wo believe, it. Jacks 
the merit claimed for it, the public will thus 
be enabled to estimate it at its true value, and 
the weight of disapproval resting upon it, 
may stimulate to further improvements till 
finally tlia highest possible* excellence shall 
be reached- I know it to be possible to so 
handle partially-skimmed milk that the pro¬ 
duct will show greater richness or “ quality ” 
or “meat,” or whatever the term used to in¬ 
dicate the appearance of present cream, than 
a large proportion of the whole milk or full 
cream cheese at present made—in other 
words, much of the cheese made of unskim¬ 
med milk is ns effectually divested of tho 
butyraceous properties by faulty handling, 
and is in fact leaner than a well manufactur¬ 
ed article of half skint cheese. This beiug 
tiie case the. buyer, though an expert, may 
not always bo able to toll whioh has aud 
which has not been sldmmed. Both arc, to 
all intents and purpose, skimmed, and he can 
easily detect leanness of quality in both. It 
is therefore not a greater crime to folio w the 
practice that converts the oil into butter 
titan that which converts it into grease.” 
■-»♦» — 
Some Points in Butter Making,— lb is 
time to skttn when the fingers can be drawn 
through the top without having the cream 
close behind it. When cream will do this it 
is about ripe enough to churn. When cream 
foams iu the churn it may be cured by 
warming. Cream should not be churned as 
soon as taken from the milk. It should bo 
stirred and allowed to ripen all alike. This 
will occur in twelve hours or as. But cream 
should not stand until wlioy is formed in 
the cream jar. 
®Iu> H^dsman. 
HOLSTEIN CATTLE. 
Less is known, and much loss said of the 
Holstein than of any other popular breed of 
cattle, but we think that public interest is 
increasing with regard to them. George E. 
Brown thus acts forth their advantages in a 
recent letter to the Western Rural: 
Two important conHidei-ations in favor of 
those cattle are, their adaptation to our 
climate and the manner in which they hare 
been fed. The climate of Holland is strik¬ 
ingly similar to our own, rigorous and 
changeable; severe storms of wind and 
rain, dense fogs, and extremes of heat and 
cold prevail. Tho temperature ranges from 
23° below to 103® above zero. The mode of 
living of the Dutch farmer is extremely 
simple and this is shared by his cattle. All 
live under one roof, and although the great¬ 
est care is taken that the cattle want for 
nothing, and they are kept scrupulously 
neat, yet they are pampered in no way. 
During the grazing season no grain is fed and 
during tho winter very little If any. One 
olJ-cuke per day (less than two quarts), is tho 
highest, and this only to cows in milk. 
This treatment shows its effect on the cattle 
when brought to this country. In every in¬ 
stance they have proved very hardy, and 
easily kept in good condition on ordinary 
feed. 
Muny impartial experiments have been 
made to test the comparative qualities of 
the Holsteins with other breeds, and the 
result has shown that the Holsteins produced 
a larger flow of milk, on a less amount of 
feed, in proportion to their weight, than any 
other breed, l should like to give a few of 
the many remarkable milk records made by 
the Holsteins in this country, as well as iu 
Holland, and other parts of Europe, but fear 
you would hardly allow me the space this 
time. Their milk is best adapted to cheese 
making, but when properly tested, has 
proved excellent for butter making. Tbe 
milk having more body, requires a longer 
time to throw up tho cream than any other 
milk. Its keeping properties are superior to 
any other, and for this reason is much sought 
after by milk dealers. 
To correct the erroneous impression in re¬ 
gard to the weight of these cattle, I will say 
that mature cows range from l,50i) to 1,700 
pounds and bulls from 1,050 to 2,750 pounds. 
Working oxen often attain, in New England, 
from 3,000 to 4,000 pounds per pair. Much 
higher weights are recorded but 1 think it 
folly to always give the outside figures or 
tell the most extravagant stories possible. I 
was much pleased with the Dutch farmers 
in this respect, in each of my visits to Hol¬ 
land. They were not given to bragging and 
telling big stories, and although exceedingly 
proud of their cattle, were perfectly candid 
in speaking of their faults. 
I am often asked, “TIow do the Holsteins 
cross with other breeds l” The absolute cer¬ 
tainty with which they transmit their char¬ 
acteristics to their offspring, when crossed 
with other improved breeds, is positive proof 
of the purity of blood. The results have 
always been good, but for our Western 
breeders, the cross with the grade Short- 
Horn has been the most satisfactory, for 
this cross does not reduce the size, and 
produces a very handsome cow, invariably a 
good milker, or a profitable feeding steer, 
in Holland I found a few breeders who have 
imported Short-Horn bulls and bred to their 
pure bred cows. The result was usually a 
very handsome steel gray in color, aud very 
line in form. 
To fully appreciate the Holsteins one needs 
to see them grazing at home, on the rich 
polders, or standing sleek and clean in their 
stables, cared for as members of the family. 
One other characteristic of these cattle, 
should not be overlooked, and that is, their 
remarkable docility, the result of centuries 
of careful, quiet treatment. 
•--- 
FEEDING COWS IN SUMMER. 
Forrest Moreland of St. Lawrence Co., 
thus discourses in the Country Gentleman 
of different methods of treating grass lands, 
as also how best to keep cows during the 
summer months : 
All meadows are light this year ; the hay 
crop will be short, and some farmers will 
have to dispose of a portion of their stock, as 
they have more than they can feed tho com¬ 
ing winter. 
“There is Mr. E. ;” says Richard, “he has 
four cows and two horses ; he will certainly 
have, to sell one cow at least.” He will sell 
one or two cows, and then he will have some 
hay and perhaps a little straw to sell. He 
thinks hay will bring a good price tills year ; 
moreover his cows are failing in milk, pas¬ 
tures are short-, water is scarce and alto¬ 
gether prospects are rather discoitraglug. 
“ That is always the way,” says Deacon 
Richard ; “ E.’s pastures are overstocked. 
I have twenty-seven milch cows and feed 
them bran once a day, generally in the 
morning, and green feed at night. In June 
I gave them clover, in July oats, and in the 
first week oT August, I began on two acres 
of splendid corn. My plan is to feed bran in 
the morning, as it is most, convenient. I 
give each cow about two quarts, aud at 
night I give a* much green feed as they will 
eut. My cows do not shrink in milk. 1 have 
three hogs that will weigh perhaps, 300 
pounds each, and five sbotes weighing about 
one hundred pounds each, and five pigs 
weighing about fifty pounds. All these get 
nothing but sour milk. Of course £ shall 
begin to feed them corn shortly. They are 
doing well enough at present, and I intend 
to keep them so. I have ten calves also in 
splendid condition. Thus a little care and 
attention bestowed on tbe cows in regard to 
proper feeding and watering, is amply re¬ 
warded in a well-stocked hog-yanl and calf 
pasture.” 
“ Your plan is unmistakably good, Deacon 
Richard,” L said; “but, it has its draw¬ 
backs ; suppose you should fall to food your 
cows some night, I fancy somebody’s oats 
would suffer.” 
“That is always the trouble with farmers,” 
said Deacon Richard ; “ now you never let 
anything happen to keep your cows from 
being milked ; but if you sleep late iu the 
morning you can’t feed your cows ; or if you 
go a visiting, or go to town, you are apt, to 
come home too late to feed the cows, and 
they are milked in a hurry and sent to the 
pasture, which is perhaps as dry and almost 
as bure as the street. To be sure my plan 
has its drawbacks—it is not quite perfect; 
but I think I can Improve on it next year. 
As for instance, I shall sow about one half an 
acre of early sweet corn, as early as possible 
and an equal amount of common yellow 
corn, to be followed by about two acres of 
Western dent corn. 1 feed my cows all that 
they will eat and find it pays. 1 do not 
think there is any necessity for cows shrink¬ 
ing in milk. As soon as the first flush of milk 
is over, and before the first frost, i cut all 
the corn that is left, and let il lie in bundles 
on the ground for a day aud then tie and set 
up, putting eight or ten bundles together, 
aud bind the whole securely, for if the crop 
has been a good one, some will remain in the 
field until long after Now Year. The cheap¬ 
est feed for cattle, in summer or winter, is 
sowed corn. ‘ Long may it wave.’ ” 
