throw  the  drapery  backward  without  the  assist¬ 
ance  of  ahlrra  or  tapes ;  while  the  back  portion 
and  side  back  gores  are  just  long  enough  to  sweep 
the  ground  gracefutlj'.  Xo  decoration  Is  used 
upon  tne  skirt,  though  trimming  could  have  been 
added  without  destroying  Ii^  symmetry.  The  bot¬ 
tom  Is  faced  underueatli  for  a  finish  and  the  skirt 
is  lined,  so  that  the  shape  will  be  well  supported. 
The  upper  edgtjs  of  the  back  breadth  ii.nd  side- 
back  gores  are  gathered  to  the  belt,  but  a  plait 
turning  backward  over  the  side-front  seam  Is  laid 
before  the  remainder  of  the  top  Is  attached. 
at  the  other,  it  Is  faced  underneath  with  velvet, 
while  the  outside  Is  fully  trltnmod  with  loops  of 
soft  silk  Intermingled  with  roses. 
Of  late  I.lngerie  has  assumed  a  very  prominent 
part  In  fashions  and  justly,  as  nothing  gives 
a  pretUer  finish  to  the  toilet  than  some  one  or 
other  of  these  flehns,  collarettes,  bows  or  tlca.  .\1- 
though  Inslgnlrtcant  In  themselves,  yet  they  seem 
to  be  the  “,/e  //e  soin  pas  ipiof,”  which  gives  a  dis¬ 
tinguished  and  atyll.sh  look  to  a  costume ;  the  last 
tnuoli,  here  and  there,  that  the  painter  gives  his 
picture,  not  distinguishable  by  themselves,  but 
Smyrna  lace  Is  .aho  becoming  popular  for  decorat¬ 
ing  outside  gamionfs  of  white  or  cream  color,  but 
It  Is  too  expensive  to  come  Into  very  common  use. 
Plain  lawns  and  organdies  are  trimmed  with  ruf¬ 
fles  and  pleatings  of  the  same  edged  with  Vnlen- 
clennos  laco;  but  Wio  remaining  patterns  are  all 
furnished  wiiu  rancy  woven  borders,  that  are 
either  pleated,  gathered  or  sowrU  plainly  to  llio 
lower  edges  of  the  over-garmonla  and  flouners, 
individual  fancy  directing  the  disposition  in  every 
Instance.  Many  of  the  French  prints  and  cam- 
hrlcs  ore  proMded  with  slmnar  liordorlngs^  which 
form  very  proity  contrasts,  especially  In  those 
dark-blues  now  so  prevalent.  There  Is  one  very 
noticeable  foattire  about  these  fabrics  In  strtpes 
and  plaids,  and  that  Is  the  reverse  aide  Is  frequent¬ 
ly  finished  HO  that  it  may  bo  lulUzcd  for  such  dec¬ 
orations  ns  pipings,  cordlngs,  etc. 
Unfortunately,  I  have  again  over-written  the 
space  allotted  me  and  must,  perforce,  close  this 
article  abruptly.  Frolic. 
Aloxe;  and  the  golden  waters 
Are  rippling  to  the  west. 
And  tho  chime  from  St.  Roch's  belfry 
Dies  on  tho  ocean's  breast. 
And  tho  dimpled  waves  are  rocking 
The  Ashers’  barks  to  rest. 
"  Rahetto  I  Babetto  I”  the  mother  calls, 
Far  up  above  the  strand, 
**  Bring  in  your  father's  nets,  my  child, 
And  lend  your  little  hand 
To  turn  tho  wheel ;  nor  linger  there 
8o  long  upon  the  strand." 
The  aim  is  sinking  in  the  sea 
In  crimson  robes  and  gold; 
A  chilly  breath  the  ocean  stir* 
And  roughs  her  ringlets  gold ; 
It  feels  to  her  like  a  faioweU  kiss 
From  lips  now  dead  ami  cold. 
Tho  yellow  light  is  on  the  wall, 
The  sea  wall  old  and  gray 
With  weed  and  lichen  mantled  all 
In  sober-hued  array. 
Tno  children  on  tho  pier  above 
Are  laughing  in  their  play. 
The  quaint,  old,  red-roofed  clustered  town 
Looks  downward  on  the  wave ; 
That  sea  from  which  her  wistful  eye 
Some  answer  seems  to  crave ; 
That  sea  which  took  her  love  away 
And  gave  her  back  a  grave. 
Oh,  eyes  that  once  bo  lightly  laughed  ! 
Oh,  oad.  sweet  Ups  apart  f 
Once  crushed  with  passionate  kisses  when 
He  held  her  on  hn  heart. 
That  day  she  stood  this  wall  beneath 
To  see  her  lover  start  j 
To  say  again  the  last  "  {>od  speed," 
And  waro  her  'kerchief  white. 
And  smile  In  hope— ah,  Ood,  who  raised 
Those  breakers  wild  and  white, 
And  bade  the  tempest  to  arise 
And  rage  that  livelong  night. 
And  amotn  tho  little  qiiiv'ring  bark, 
•And  tore  the  planks  in  twain, 
Deal  gently  with  tho  broken  heart 
Of  hor  who  all  in  vain 
Poured  out  her  soul  In  fervent  prayer. 
Her  love  to  soc  again. 
No,  not  In  vain.  Tim  mornlug  dawned, 
Tho  MUimhino  glitteruil  fair. 
And  liuthed  in  light  a  battcrod  corpse, 
A  gleam  of  golden  lialr- 
God  only  hoard  Iho  cry  of  tier 
Who  found  liim  lying  there.  IScotsman 
Eaa  HUNTma, 
RT  M.  P.  BRINE, 
the  hotel  chore  boy,  urging  poor,  loan,  many-rlb- 
bed  Dobbin  to  his  utmost  spend.  Tho  boy's  short, 
fat  legs  are  flying  ungr.acffully  from  each  sldo  of 
the  animal,  and  Ills  loose  Jacket  seems  uncci  tuln 
as  to  which  pnrt.1oii  of  the  ilumiiy  figure  It  was 
first  Intended  to  lit.  On  they  came,  the  horse  and 
rider,  aud  now  Mrs.  Orky  (lrop.s  her  broom,  for¬ 
gets  the  dust  upon  the  kitchen  floor  and  rushes  to 
the  gate  with  wondering  eyes. 
“Seen  anythin'  of  a  little  gal  rcound  those 
parts  7”  yells  Tim,  excitedly. 
“  Yer  ain't  crazy,  ho  yo,  Tui  Blake?"  is  her 
reply ;  “  s'posc  I  Ucv ;  no  cause  fur  you  to  scare 
honest  folks  in  this  way  a  daahln’  down  tho  road 
like  all  possessed.” 
“G’lip!  gnongt”  ts  Tim's  only  responso,  and 
Mrs.  Grey  chokes  with  the  dust  kicked  up  by  tho 
flying  Dobbin’s  loosened  shoos. 
“  Never  did  sec  the  boat  of  that  are  boy !"  mut¬ 
tons  the  farmer’s  wife,  turning  back  to  her  broom 
and  vigorously  attacking  tho  klbdion  floor  again. 
Mea  tiwbllu  Tim  Is  out  of  sight  and  a  farmer  with 
two  hungry  uttie  sons  comes  down  from  the  rnoiul- 
ow,  expccUng  every  mlnuto  to  hear  the  welcome 
toot  of  the  dlnner-honi.  And  iiuik!  ihoro  Id 
sounds  clearly  on  the  soft  air.  And  the  three 
thus  summonod  qiUcken  their  steps  to  find  tho 
wife  and  mother  awalring  them  in  the  doorway. 
“Guess  what's  happened,  mother !”  cry  Hie  two 
boys  In  a  breath.  “  Little  gal’s  lost  up  to  the  hotel. 
Awful  Umoi  every  one's  hunting  her  up,  and— 
and— oh,  luddy  I” 
Between  the  two,  who  Interrupt  each  other  dur¬ 
ing  this  nan-ative  continually.  Mi-s.  Gniiv  compre¬ 
hends  the  cause  of  'I'ln’s  strange,  mad  gallop  and 
puzzling  question. 
“  La,  now !  that  Ti-u  Blake  rid  by  here  like  ni.ad 
a  while  ago  and  I  larted  at  him  wlieu  he  asked  if 
a  gal  was  round  here.  As  If  enny  one  didn't  know 
I  never  had  a  darter— only  hoys,  more’s  the  pity !” 
“  Wall,  you  sec,  wife,”  says  the  fanner,  dipping 
his  face  in  tho  clear,  cold  water  placed  In  iho 
basin  before  him,  “you  see,  mo  and  the  boys  was 
a  turning  of  the  hay  in  the  upper  medder,  'when 
(another  duck  of  hl.s  head)  we  soe  a  crowrl  runnln’ 
up  the  road  yonder  (rub,  scrub  with  the  coarse 
towel  that  made  his  bronzed  face  shine)  .Tack,  ho 
run  over  and  asked  the  matter.  (Hero,  'I'oji,  duuip 
this  water;  give  us  a  kiss  now,  mother)  and  found 
out  that  Mis’ Sumbody  or  ruther  up  to  tlio  hotel 
—city  lady,  you  know— had  lost  her  young  'un- 
gal  Tiout  nve  year  old  or  so.  A  lot  of  hulkin’ 
thieves,  gipsies,  had  been  prowlin’  round  there, 
and  folks  said  she’d  mos’  likely  been  took  off  by 
’em.  Anyhow,  the  lady’s  In  an  awful  condition 
of  scare  and  takln’  on  to  kill.  Now  then  for  din¬ 
ner  !  come  boys.” 
Meanwhile  at  the  hotel  a  half-lrantlc  mother 
wept  and  bewailed  the  loss  of  her  baby— the  dar¬ 
ling  who  had  never  before  left  her  .side,  scarcely 
her  arms.  Kverythlng  pointed  to  the  belief  that 
the  child  had  been  stolen  by  gipsies,  for  one  of 
the  latter  had  been  scolTcd  at  and  insulted  by  the 
servants  that  morning,  and  It  was  supposed  the 
woman  had  thus  revenged  herself.  So  'ITii  Blake 
had  been  sent  In  one  direction  wlule  others  started 
;nili  ®iiiiners 
FASHION  ITEMS, 
New  York,  July  19,  18T6. 
Cambrics  having  once  more  become  popular 
for  street  wear,  It  may  not  bo  amlas  to  give  my 
readers  a  few  hints  as  to  the  best  way  to  do  them 
up.  In  the  first  place  cambrics— or,  for  that  mat¬ 
ter,  any  washable  material— should  not  ho  w-ashed 
la  very  warm  water.  Some  of  the  best  French 
cambrics  will  bear  steaming,  but  as  to  ordinary 
goods,  cake  Punch’s  advice  to  people  about  to 
marry,  “Don’t!"  Do  not  rub  soap  directly  upon 
the  fabric,  as  It  will  be  quite  as  likely  to  obllijir- 
ate  the  color  as  the  dirt.  If  two  articles  differing 
in  color  are  put  In  the  water  together,  the  one 
containing  the  stronger  dye  will  make  the  other 
coloi-s  appear  mixed  and  Indistinct.  Cambrics 
should  be  rinsed  In  two  waters  after  being  re¬ 
moved  from  the  sufls,  and  dried  quickly;  but  they 
should  not  be  hung  directly  in  the  sun,  as  many 
of  the  coloi-s  worn  thl.s  season  are  Injured  more  In 
this  way  than  by  being  wet.  Starching  should 
be  done  when  the  fabric  Is  about  half  dry,  as  it 
will  retain  its  stiffness  better  and  Iron  more  easi¬ 
ly.  By  dissolving  two  ounces  of  gum  arable  in  a 
pint  of  boiling  water  and  pouring  a  little  of  the 
preparation  into  the  starch,  any  dlfHculty  about 
Ironing  will  be  obviated. 
The  “pull-back”  has  certaluly  had  tea  share  of 
abuse,  not  unjustly,  perhaps;  but  our  modification 
of  this  foreign  idea  bears  no  resemblance  to  the 
extremes  of  the  style  acims  the  sea.  To  such 
lengths,  indeed,  has  it  been  carried,  that  the 
wearers  now  have  their  imdor-clothlng  “  molded” 
to  the  form,  and  a  fashionable  promenade  la  quite 
as  useful  as  regards  the  study  of  the  human  form 
divine,  as  the  studio  of  a  Geroite  or  a  gallery  of 
URKSS  KOR.  SSXJMIVCKR 
'me  overskirt  msy  be  used  for  a  walking-skirt 
If  the  drapery  be  omitted,  as  it  Is  cut  jast  like 
many  of  the  short  round  skirls,  with  a  front  and 
side  gore  and  a  wide  back  breadth.  The  latter  Is 
gathered  to  the  beltbut  the  gores  are  Joined  plain¬ 
ly.  A  facing  Is  sewed  to  the  back  edge  of  the  side 
gore  and  a  wide  back  breadth.  The  latter  is  gath¬ 
ered  to  the  belt  but  the  gores  are  Joined  plainly. 
A  facing  Is  sewed  to  the  back  edge  of  tho  side 
gore  underneath  about  a  quarter  of  a  yard  below 
the  belt  and  Ls  also  sewed  three  times  between 
the  edges,  so  that  four  shirrs  are  formed.  Tapes 
are  passeil  through  the  shirrs  aud,  affor  being 
drawn  a.H  closely  as  desired,  are  tied  at  tne  bottom 
of  the  facing  so  that  they  maybe  lengthened  if 
required.  Cither  tapes  are  tacked  at  the  top  and 
bottom  of  the  facing  and  tied  across  to  regulate 
the  draper!'.  No  decoration,  except  a  piping  below 
a  row  of  stitching,  is  used  to  complete  this  over¬ 
skirt,  but  that,  as  will  be  noticed,  makes  a  very 
pretty  flnish. 
The  pattern  for  the  overskirt  Is  numbered  4397, 
which  the  Hcral  will  also  furnish  on  receipt  of 
30C.,  the  price.  Cambric,  lawn,  organdie,  etc., 
can  also  be  made  iip  in  the  pattern  with  pleasing 
results. 
The  sack  is  In  one  of  those  stylish  shapes  which 
are  always  certain  to  gain  extended  favor  in  fash¬ 
ionable  circles.  It  has  deep,  square  fronts  that 
are  perfectly  loose  and  a  half-Qttlng  back  which 
is  quite  short  and  Jaunty.  A  dart  takes  the  place 
of  the.  usual  under-arm  seam,  while  the  Joining 
of  the  back  and  front  Is  located  so  far  toward  the 
back  that  It  seems  to  be  a  side-back  seam.  The 
front  closes  as  far  as  the  walst-llne  with  button¬ 
holes  and  buttons,  while  a  Byron  collar  completes 
the  neck  and  rolls  over  a  lace-edged  tie.  Tho 
sleeves  are  In  coat  shape  and  are  flnlshed  with 
pretty,  round  cuffs,  the  edges  of  which  are  deco¬ 
rated  with  piping  and  .stitching  to  correspond 
with  the  rest  of  the  garment.  The  pattern  used 
In  cutting  the  sack  is  No.  4398  (price  30c.)  and  Is 
appropriate  for  any  material,  whether  suit  good.s 
or  cloakings. 
The  chip  hat  Is  a  very  jaunty  affair,  sitting  well 
back  on  the  head  and  flaring  more  at  one  side  than  i 
ANT)  ICAJ-iJ-.  WEAR.. 
qiaip  tho  thing  wanting  to  enhance  tho  effect  of 
tho  completed  canvas.  I  have  selected  one  of  the 
prettiest,  the  “  Cardinal  C.ape,"  ivhlch  seems  to 
be,  this  season,  the  general  favorite.  Description 
Ls  almost  superfluous,  the  Illustration  so  admira¬ 
bly  explains  the  article. 
Tho  pattern.  No,  4099.  Is  furnished  In  ten  sizes 
(bust  measure  28  to  4fi  inches)  and  costs  20c.  A 
cape  for  a  lady  of  medium  .size  will  require  seven- 
eighths  of  a  yard  of  goods  27  Indies  wide,  or  they 
can  be  made  of  lace,  “  bugles,”  or  anything  light 
and  graceful  that  the  Indl  vldual  taste  of  the  wearer 
may  suggest.  Originality  In  fashion  Is  always 
desli'able,  provided  It  does  not  tread  on  the  gro 
tesque. 
In  trimmings  no  decorations  have  so  long  re¬ 
mained  popular  as  shlrrlngs  and  knlfe-pieatlngs. 
They  are  seen  almost  as  profusely  this  season  as 
they  were  In.  the  beginning  of  their  popularity, 
the  only  apparent  change  being  perhaps,  a  slight 
diminution  In  the  quamlty  of  shlrrlngs  used. 
Box -pleated  flounces  too,  are  appearing,  and 
though  they  are  hut  the  revival  of  an  old  style 
they  are  welcomed  as  it  change.  Combination 
suits  have  box-pleated  flounces  edged  with  a  band 
of  the  lighter  shade  both  at  the  top  ana  bottom, 
and  set  on  the  skirt  above  a  pleated  or  shirred 
ruffle,  or  else  one  flounce  laid  in  close  box-pleats 
and  not  more  than  three  Inches  wide.  Sometimes 
two  aide-pleated  nounce.s  are  used,  each  having  a 
band  of  the  contrasting  shade  let  In  above  the 
hem ;  or  a  flounce,  gathered  so  ob  t»  form  a  puff 
with  a  tiny  standing  ruffle  for  the  heading,  crosses 
the  back  breadths,  while  a  slde-pleatlng  com¬ 
pletes  the  remainder  of  the  skirt  trimming. 
To  rerixm  to  the  decorations  used  upon  worsted 
over-dre8se.s.  Besides  the  deep  facings  mentioned 
a  new  worsted  frltigo  appears.  It  has  a  netted 
heading  atleasttwo  Indies  wide,  to  which  worsted 
balls  are  attached  by  very  short  loops.  Two  widths 
were  shown  upon  dUTcront  suits,  In  a  decided  aa 
well  as  an  Indeflnlie  gray  or  dust  color.  It  is  a 
very  stylish  flnish  and  is  deservedly  popular. 
For  while  cambrics  and  piques,  large  quantities 
of  Hamburg  edgings  are  used,  while  for  .SwIhs 
m'lsUns  Italian  lace  Is  almost  exclusively  adopted' 
statuary.  Let  us  hope  the  good  sense  of  our  coun¬ 
trywomen  will  forbid  any  such  display  on  our 
streets. 
I  have  selected  for  Illustration  a  seasonable 
costume  that  verges  on  neither  extreme  and  one 
that  Is  very  suitable  for  summer  and  fall  wear,  it 
Is  eminently  appropriate  for  the  street,  making 
also  a  pretty  traveling  dress.  The  model  la  made 
of  de  Beige,  being  simply  trimmed  with  the  mate¬ 
rial  and  machlne-.siltchlDg.  The  skirt  corresponds 
to  a  pattern  numbered  4413  (price  35o.)  and  hangs 
gracefully  with  most  of  Its  fullness  falling  at  the 
hack.  The  gores  aro  sloped  In  such  a  way  as  to 
In  haste  along  other  routes;  but  the  day  wore  on 
and  one  by  one  the  searchers  returned  without 
news.  At  three  o’clock  the  stage  came  rumbling 
up  and  the  driver.  In  answer  to  Inquiries,  said  he 
“had  seen  a  lot  of  thievin’  vagabonds  a  good  piece 
beyond  the  toll-bridge,  butdidn’tscc  no  child  with 
them.”  Tho  mother  wept  afresh  at  rtUd  discour¬ 
aging  news.  “  Where  could  her  darling  Mary  be 
wandering  7  0 1  who  would  flud  hor  lost  baby  ?” 
Thus  she  Implored  In  piteous toura  whllo  the  .sym¬ 
pathizing  crowd  of  boarders  (aiul  hungers-on,  as 
are  always  to  bo  lound  at  a  hotel,)  tried  various 
ways  to  comfort  her,  Butflve  o’clock  caino  drear- 
