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edges  of  the  froat,  are  flolshed  with  piping ;  and 
the  coat-sleere  la  completed  with  a  cuff  whose 
upper  edge  is  faced  and  taclied  down  under 
butlnna,  to  match  the  pocKefs. 
Two  shades  of  blue,  brown  or  gray,  combine 
pretUly  in  gaments  of  this  style,  and  the  ma¬ 
terials  may  contrast  or  barmonlzo  in  texture. 
The  Introduction  of  the  vest,  and  the  diversity 
observed  In  the  arrangement  of  iho  back  render 
It  particularly  charming  and  picturesque.  Elab¬ 
orate  trimmings  are  not  required,  and  arc  Indeed 
out  of  place,  though  there  are  a  number  of 
simpler  kinds  from  wblch  a  selection  may  be 
made,  bruld,  velvet,  cordlnga  or  fringe*  being 
among  the  most  suitable.  In  seven  sues  tor  girls 
from  3  to  D  years  old. 
The  misses’  overskirt,  No.  4603,  Is  one  among 
the  many  pretty  ways  of  treating  sklrhs.  Draping 
has,  however,  become  a  mattor  of  Individual 
fancy,  the  stereotype  of  fashion  being  remarka- 
blo  by  Its  abseneo.  The  jnatorlal  illustrated  Is 
soft  serge,  and  tho  garment  consists  of  a  tvlde 
gore  and  a  full  back-breadth.  Tho  gore  forms 
the  front  and  sides  of  tho  skirt,  and  displays  two 
styles  of  drapery.  The  fullness  la  romovod  from 
tho  top  by  moans  of  darls,  and  throe  deep  plaits, 
overlapping  and  turning  upward,  are  clustered  In 
the  right  stde-seam  near  tho  hoMoni.  The  left 
side  Is  particularly  effective  in  appearanco,  being 
slashed  frotn  the  bottom  for  about  ton  or  twelve 
Inches,  and  then  reversL'd  as  lUustr.atQd.  A  short 
shirring  is  made  at  tho  top  of  the  opening,  and  a 
the  dally  routine  of  hla  duties  as  If  the  soul  had 
been  taken  out  of  his  work  and  left  his  life  all 
barrenness  and  desolation.  Tie  moved  restlessly 
from  place  to  place,  roamed  at  all  times  of  iho 
day  and  night  through  tho  city  and  its  suburb^ 
trying  vainly  to  eihamst  his  physical  strength  t 
gradually,  as  his  lethargy  deepened  Into  a  numb, 
seam.  The  lower  erlgo  of  the  cuff,  as  well  as  the 
seam  joining  it  to  the  sleeve.  Is  piped  with  the 
silk ;  and  the  neck  has  a  slinl'ar  finish,  Inside  of 
which  Is  sewed  a  lace  ruche.  A  wide  silk  belt, 
formed  of  narrow  upward- turning  plaits  laid 
ON  THE  DOWNS 
A  TAiHT  sea  without  wind  or  sno ; 
A  lifelike  flamcless  vapor  dun ; 
A  valley  like  an  unsealed  grave 
That  no  man  cares  to  weep  upon. 
Bare,  without  boon  to  crave 
Or  flower  to  save. 
And  on  the  lip’s  edge  of  th«  down, 
Here  where  the  bent  graes  bum#  to  brown 
In  the  dry  sea  wind,  and  the  heath 
Crawls  to  the  cliff’s  side  and  looks  down, 
I  watch,  and  hear  beneath 
The  low  tide  broathe. 
Along  the  long  lines  of  the  cliff, 
Down  the  flat  sea-line,  without  skiff 
Or  sail  or  blaok-blown  fume  for  marks. 
Through  wind-worn  heads  of  heath,  and  stiff 
Stems,  bloseomlcss  and  stark. 
With  dry  sprays  dark. 
I  send  my  ©yee  out  as  for  news 
Of  oomfort  that  all  these  refuse. 
Tidings  of  light  or  living  air 
From  windward,  where  tho  low  clouds  muse 
And  the  sea,  blind  and  bare. 
Seems  full  of  care. 
[Clwrlcs  Swinburne. 
crosswise  on  a  lining  of  crinoline,  confines  the 
garment  snugly  to  the  figure,  and  Is  itself  fastened 
with  a  handsome  buckle. 
The  child’s  sack  (No.  4366)  is  made  of  heavy 
cloth,  trimmed  with  facings  and  bands  of  silk  of 
a  dark  shade.  The  adju-stment  Is  performed  by 
shoulder  and  under-arm  seams  and  the  garment, 
though  very  long.  Is  loose  enough  to  allow  a  free 
movement  of  the  little  wearer’s  limbs.  Each  side 
of  the  front  has  a  deep  pocket,  turned  down  at 
the  top  to  form  a  Up,  frf>ru  which  an  inverted  V- 
shaped  opening  is  cut,  so  that  It  falls  in  two  points 
which  <iro  faced  with  silk.  The  sleeve  Is  in  coat- 
shape,  anti  has  a  cuff  whoso  corners  are  reversed 
at  the  outside  seam  and  raced  wiin  silk  lo  har- 
mnul/.o  with  the  pockot-lap.  The  eape-llke collar 
is  slashed  for  about  half  Its  depth  through  the 
center,  and  the  corners  of  tho  slash,  as  well  os 
the  ends  In  front,  are  rcvcinied  with  silk.  A  sack 
of  this  style  may  ho  made  pr  velvet,  plaid  llannol, 
waterproof  cloth,  heavy  cioLn,  or  any  seasonable 
fabric.  I.lnesot  machlno-siltchlug,  bands  of  silk 
or  velvet,  or  rows  of  braid,  are  npproprlat/>  trim¬ 
mings.  The  pallevn  la  in  6  sizes,  for  children  from 
1  to  6  years.  (Price  20  cents.) 
A  very  nice  sack  for  elderly  ladles  Is  illustrated 
In  No.  4.584,  The  front  is  in  uouDie-broasied  sack 
shape,  and  tho  back  is  in  the  populixr  French 
mo<le,  being  quite  narrow  ,and  having  a  curved 
seam  through  the  center.  ’The  skirl  Is  of  medium 
depth,  and  presents  a  uniform  outline  slightly 
deepening  at  Ibe  back.  Tho  upper  parts  of  tho 
front  aro  faced  and  piped  with  sllK,  and  the  left 
side  Ls  turned  back  in  a  mviw,  while  the  right 
underlaps  It  or  is  also  turned  back,  at  the 
pleasure  of  tho  wearer.  'Fho  front  Is  closed  Its 
entire  length  below  the  revers  with  buttonholes 
and  natural-wood  buttons,  a  second  line  of  but¬ 
tons  being  arranged  on  tho  overlapping  side. 
FASHION  NOTES, 
helpless  despair— It  seemed,  somehow,  to  impart 
a  certain  toughness  to  bis  otherwise  delloato 
frame.  Olson,  who  was  now  a  junior  partner  in 
tho  firm  of  Komsen,  'Van  Kirk  &  Co.,  stood  by 
him  faithfully  in  theso  days  of  sorrow.  He  was 
never  effusive  In  his  sympathy,  but  was  patiently 
torbcailhg  with  hla  friend's  whims  and  moods, 
and  humored  him  as  it  ho  had  been  a  sick  child 
Intrusted  to  his  custody.  That  Edith  might  be 
the  moving  cause  of  Olson’s  kindness  was  a 
thought  which,  strangely  enough,  had  never  oc¬ 
curred  to  Ualfdan. 
Atlast^  when  spring  came,  the  viicancy  of  his 
mind  was  suddenly  invaded  with  a  strong  desire 
to  revisit  his  native  land.  He  disclosed  his  plan 
to  Olson  who.  after  duo  deliberation  and  several 
vlaits  to  the  Van  Kirk  mansion,  decided  that  tho 
pleasure  of  seeing  old  friends  and  tho  ccenes  of 
ills  cldldhood,  might  push  tho  pn Inful  memories 
out  of  sight »  u  d  roDCw  hla  interest  In  life.  So,  ono 
morning.  While  tho  May  sun  shone  with  a. soft 
radiance  upon  tho  heaiillful  harbor,  our  Norse¬ 
man  found  himself  standing  on  tho  deck  of  a  huge 
hlack-hulled  Cunardcr,  shivering  In  spite  of  the 
warmth  and  feeling  a  chill  loneliness  creeping 
over  him  at  Iho  sight  of  the  kissing  and  affeetton- 
ate  leave-takings  which  wore  going  on  all  around 
him.  Olson  was  running  back  and  forth,  attend¬ 
ing  lo  his  baggage ;  but  ho  himself  took  no 
thought  and  folL  no  more  responsibility  than  If  he 
had  been  a  helpless  child.  Ho  half  regretted  that 
New  York,  Dec.  9,  18T6. 
The  very  sudden  and  severe  change  In  the 
weather  brings  the  question  of  winter  wraps  for¬ 
cibly  to  mind,  and  as  heretofore  I  have  given  un¬ 
divided  attention  to  the  ladles,  it  seems  only  Just 
corresponding  one  la  Inserted  at  the  left  stde- 
seam.  As  represeutod,  the  plaits  raise  the  right 
aide  quite  high  In  grocelul  folds  and  wrinkles, 
while  the  left  fails  comparatively  low,  revealing 
the  oriiamontallon  of  tho  dress  skirt  through  tho 
oponliijr.  The  hack  u  longer  than  cither  sldo, 
and  where  it  Joins  t  he  belt  is  arrangcil  lii  six  sldc- 
plalfR  turning  toward  the  center.  A  tape,  fast¬ 
ened  at  the  cculcr  of  the  belt  and  tacked  twice  to 
the  breadth  at  Intervals  far  enough  apart  to  pro¬ 
duce  a  stylish  puitmess,  drapes  the  back  prettily, 
two  other  tapes  being  tackod  at  tho  sldo-seams 
and  tied  together  to  hold  tho  fullness  In  position. 
Mourning  Coocls. 
The  mourning  goods  look  gloomily  down  upon 
UH  from  rows  of  well  tilled  shelves.  In  the 
“heavy  affiicuon"  Unpariment  Is  an  extensive 
assortment  of  such  leading  fabrics  a.s  Henrietta 
cloth,  bombazine,  Imperial  sor.gc,  cashmere,  mo- 
Jialr,  firnp  (Vntn,  crepe  cloths  and  barathea,  in 
prices  ranging  from  slxiy-livo  cents  to  $2.25  a 
yard.  Honrletta  clolbs  with  silk  warp  are  from 
to  i’i.Ts  pier  yard,  and  with  cotton  warp 
from  forty-llvn  cents  to  fl.  Camel’s  hair,  fancy 
anil  pliiln,  light  and  heavy,  from  |l  to  $T.50  a  yard. 
Tho  latter  Is  seventy-two  Inches  wide-  Fancy 
matele^se  from  sixty  five  cenw  to  fs  a  yard. 
Diagonals  and  serges,  forly-tdglit  Inches  wide, 
Horn  il.to  to  fa.  ’Pheu  tliero  Is  a  heavy  satin 
faced  iiiatfileHitfi  for  cloaks  and  sacques  at  $3.50  a 
yard.  Courtauld’a  Engll-ih  crcpcs  are  still  the 
most  famous  for  uimmlng  and  veils,  and  arc  sold 
at  Sl.iio  to  $10  per  yard.  Fromc. 
that  the  hoys  and  girls  should  bo  considered.  To 
this  end  1  have  selected  and  give  patterns  of 
cloaks,  coats,  &c-,  that  I  think  will  be  found  ap¬ 
propriate,  serviceable  and  stylish. 
The  girl's  Dolman  paletot  boars  a  resemblance 
to  many  of  tho  ladle-V  wraps.  The  model  Is  of 
cloth  with  braid  trimmings  and  buttons,  and  Is 
fitted  In  the  manner  pi'cullar  to  the  Dolman.  The 
fronts  aro  quite  long  ana  narrow,  and  for  about 
half  tbelr  length  from  tho  shoulders  connect  with 
curving  sleeve-portions,  which  are  held  a  Irtfie 
full  at  the  shoulders  and  are  sewed  to  the  hack 
for  lr,3  entire  length.  The  back  Is  considerably 
shorter  than  the  front  and^leeves,  and  has  a  ceai- 
ter-seam  that  pcrmlt-s  a  graceful  spring  below  its 
termination,  which  occurs  at  t  he  watst-llne.  Exti’a 
widths  arc  allowed  at  tho  end  of  the  seam,  that 
on  the  right  half  being  extended  over  tho  left  In 
a  diagonal  lap.  The  alcove  has  no  seam,  except 
the  one  Joining  it  to  the  body  of  tho  garment,  and 
consequently  droops  loosely  over  the  arm.  A 
belt,  fastened  at  tho  front,  draws  the  paletot 
gracefully  to  the  figure,  without  hindrance  to  an 
easy  movement  of  the  arm  or  tho  fall  of  the 
sleeve.  A  bias  band,  rounded  off  at  the  ends, 
completes  the  neck ;  and  tho  braid  trimming  Is 
arranged  on  the  front  in  diagonal  lines,  which 
meet  Hi  V-outllno  at  the  closing,  while  tbeir  ends 
are  fastened  la  short  loops.  Tlie braid  Isconilnued 
In  polnteal-collar  form  below  the  neck  at  the  back, 
and  a  single  row  followed  by  a  lino  of  buttons 
defines  the  position  of  the  shorter  rows.  Any 
cloth  adapted  to  the  season  may  be  used.  The 
pattern  (No.  4599)  la  In  T  sizes  for  girls  from  3  to  9 
years  of  age.  Price  95  cents. 
No.  4587  is  a  gored  basque  for  girls  from  8  to  15 
years,  In  8  sizes— fiS  cents.)  The  central  portions 
of  the  back  and  front  are  each  laid  In  six  plaits 
turning  Inward  aud  clustering  closely  about  the 
neck  at  their  upper  lerinlnatlon.s.  Those  In  the 
front  aid  materially  in  adjusting  the  garment 
gracefully  to  the  figure,  as  they  overlap  each 
other  considerably  at  tJie  walst-line,  below  which 
their  seams  are  left  open,  allowing  them  to  flare 
out  prettily  in  fan  outline  toward  the  bottom.  A 
while  a  hook  and  loop  are  caught  together  under 
the  collar.  The  sleeve  Is  quite  wide  at  tho  wrist, 
where  It  Is  elegantly  coinplotod  by  a  handsome 
flaring  outf  having  a  silk  lap  nalshed  with  piping 
sewed  to  the  top  and  then  reversed.  A  deep 
Byron,  or  turn-over  collar,  faced  and  piped  with 
sUk,  rolls  about  the  neck,  fonnlng  a  stylish  and 
comfortable  completion  to  thl.s  part  of  the  sack. 
The  shape  is  suitable  for  any  material  in  vogue 
for  such  garments,  and,  owing  to  its  elegant  out¬ 
line,  but  little  trimming  Is  necessary,  Beaver,  or 
rough-faced  cloths  are  very  often  made  up  In  this 
way,  as  but  few  seams  are  introduced,  a  point 
which  should  always  be  observed  In  making  up 
heavy  cloths.  The  pattern  Is  in  13  sizes.  Bust 
measure  from  28  to  46  inches. 
The  gIrLs’  coat  with  a  deep  adjustable  vest  (No. 
4,679)  is  very  pretty  made  up  of  a  combination  of 
light-colored  cashmere  and  a  silk  of  contrasting 
shade.  The  front  portions  of  the  ga  rinent  proper 
fall  over  a  deep  silk  vest,  vvhich  runs  Into  tho 
shoulder-seams  and  depends  In  two  little  diagonal 
tabs  below  tho  closing.  Sldo-backs  and  a  center- 
seam  adjust  tln3  back  nicely,  and  atrhe  walst-lino 
of  each  side-back  Is  a  forward-turning  plait 
formed  of  narrow  extra  wHilis,  allowed  for  the 
purjxise.  A  pretty  pointed  silk  lap,  holding 
three  buttons  covered  with  cashmere,  is  sewed  In 
with  the  seam  below  the  walat-llno;  and  the 
ccuUr-seam  has  a  narrow  extra  width  on  the 
skirt,  which  Ls  extended  from  the  left  half  over 
Hie  right  in  a  straight  lap.  Large  pockets, 
turned  down  in  jiOluleJ  laps  lltat  are  faced  with 
silk  and  ornamented  with  buttons,  are  llnislied 
on  the  remaining  edges  with  silk  pipings  and 
then  plaoed  over  the  hips,  adding  a  jaunty  look 
to  the  garment.  The  skirt,  and  the  overlapping 
his  own  wish  bad  prevailed  and  was  Inclined  to 
hold  his  friend  responsible  for  it;  and  still  he  had 
not  energy  enough  to  protest  now  when  the  Jour¬ 
ney  seemed  Inevitable.  Ills  heart  still  clung  to 
the  place  which  held  the  corpse  of  his  ruined  life, 
as  a  man  may  ding  to  tho  spot  which  hides  hla 
beloved  dead. 
Two  weeks  later,  Halfdan  landed  In  Norway. 
He  was  half  reluctant  to  leave  the  steamer,  and 
the  land  of  hla  birth  excited  no  emotion  in  his 
breast.  Ho  was  but  conscious  of  a  dim  regret 
that  ho  was  so  far  away  from  Edith.  At  last, 
however,  ho  betook  himself  to  a  hotel,  where  he 
spent  the  afternoon  sitting  with  half-closed  eyes 
at  a  window,  watching  listlessly  Ibo  drowsy  slow- 
pulsed  IHe  which  dribblf'd  languidly  through  the 
narrow  tboroughfnK«.  The  noisy  uproarof  Broad¬ 
way  chimed  remotely  in  his  cars,  like  the  distant 
roar  of  a  tempest-toKsed  sea,  and  what  had  once 
been  a  perpetual  annoyance  was  now  a  sweet 
memory.  How  often  with  Edith  at  his  side  had 
he  threaded  hla  way  through  the  surging  crowds 
that  pour,  on  a  fine  aflernoon.  In  an  unceasing 
current  up  and  down  the  .street  between  L'nlon 
and  MadLson  Squares,  llow  friendly,  ,md  sweet, 
and  gracious,  Edith  had  been  at  such  limes ;  how 
fresh  her  voice,  hosv  witty  and  animated  her 
chance  remarks  when  they  stopped  to  greet  a 
passing  acquaintance;  and,  above  all,  how  in- 
splrltig  tho  sight  of  her  heavenly  beauty.  Now 
that  was  all  past.  Perhaps  he  should  never  sco 
Etillli  again. 
'I'he  next  day  ho  sauntered  through  the  city, 
meeting  some  old  friends,  who  all  seemed  changed 
fConoluded  from  pafl[o282.] 
Tir. 
After  that  eventful  December  night,  America 
was  no  more  what  It  had  bocu  to  Halfdan  Bjerk. 
A  strange  torpidity  had  come  over  him;  every 
rising  day  gazed  Into  his  eyes  with  a  fierce  un- 
slmllar  result  Ls  brought  about  in  the  back,  where 
side-front,  under-arm  and  side-back  gores  com¬ 
plete  the  adjustment.  The  skirt  shows  only  va¬ 
riation  enough  lu  length  to  produce  a  symmetri¬ 
cal  ouUlne,  and  the  seams  of  the  gores  in  the  back 
and  front  are  finished  with  a  piping  of  a  darker 
shade.  The  coat-shaped  sleeve  Is  cut  high  enough 
at  the  top  to  conform  Pj  the  length  of  the  shoul¬ 
der,  and  the  wrist  Is  completed  with  a  narrow 
cuff  flaring  downward  and  having  only  an  outside 
meaning  glare.  The  noises  of  the  street  annoyed 
him  and  made  him  chllolshly  fretful,  and  tne* 
solitude  of  his  own  room  secinod  still  more  dreary 
and  depressing.  Ho  went  mechanically  through 
