LUCKNOW—BENARES 
67 
since our minds were filled with deeper thoughts. I stood bare¬ 
headed in the little cemetery beside the plain slab of stone that bears 
the majestic inscription, dictated by the hero himself: 
HERE LIES 
HENRY LAWRENCE 
WHO TRIED TO DO HIS DUTY 
* « * * * 
When the mutiny broke out, our obliging guide, then a boy of 
eighteen, was in the great Martiniere school. He sang in the choir 
of the Residency Church, and one Sunday afternoon as they were 
practising the Magnificat some one burst in crying out that martial 
law had been proclaimed, and that they were to get back to their 
school with all haste. What did they do, think you ? They finished 
the Magnificat! ... You may imagine the quiet pride with which 
the now elderly man, who as a big boy had carried a musket 
throughout the defence, told us that he still sang in that choir. 
Benares, lat. 25° N., alt. 270 ft. 
November 28th-Becember 2nd, 1903. 
The sacred city of the Hindus, as a city, was a great disappoint¬ 
ment : the temples are all small, mostly mean, and those that are 
not filthy are at any rate dirty. But the view of the Ghats from the 
Ganges is the most interesting in India. The buildings of the Ghats 
themselves, modern as they are, rival some of the works of ancient 
Egypt, while the groups of the bathers in the holy river form a 
constantly moving picture. Many of the worshippers at their 
morning prayers seemed truly devout, yet as a whole they did not 
impress one as Moslems do. 
Benares proved more remarkable for the number and variety of its 
pilgrims than for its Butterflies. In the hotel gardens, where Jackals 
howled loudly by night, a few battered specimens of Papilio demoleus 
were seen by day, and the males of both species of Hypolimnas were 
fairly common. Of H. bolina I took a fine female, while of misippus 
I also sent home a female marked “ common.” It is, however, certain 
that at the time I did not know this insect to be a Hypolimnas, since 
I only learned from the Calcutta Museum Collection that the female 
of misippus was brown. There is therefore little doubt that it passed 
for a variety of Danaida chrysippus which it mimics in such a 
surprising manner, and which certainly was common enough in the 
