KYOTO 
135 
when alive. The $ also emits a fainter odour, but to me this is as 
unpleasant as that of the £ is pleasant.” 1 
Continued rain spoiled the voyage through the Inland Sea. Its 
picturesqueness cannot be what it once was, for the junks have dis¬ 
appeared and all the fishing craft are schooner-rigged and more or 
less European (or perhaps American) in build. For did not the 
Mikado, after receiving the report of an Imperial Commission, issue 
an edict that “ On and after such a date, every fishing boat should 
. . .” ? Surely nothing less imperious could have changed the 
immemorial practice of such conservatives as fisher-folk are all the 
world over. 
We duly reached Kobe, and after an inspection by the most 
polite of Medical officers landed and took 
train to Kyoto. Two things impressed us on 
this journey: (1) the extraordinary noise made 
by the numerous passengers walking about 
the stations in wooden clogs of simple con¬ 
struction ; they are held on by straps from a 
pin which passes between the big toe and the 
next. (2) The advertisements in the fields, 
more especially near the stations. England and America seemed to 
be outdone. Some of the signs were grotesque, a few artistic, but 
all insolent in their aggressiveness. 
Ky5to, lat. 35° 3' K 
April 28th—May 4th, 1904. 
On coming out of the station we received a rude shock—every¬ 
where telegraph poles and telephone wires, electric lights and electric 
trams! And this in the old capital of Japan; truly we had come 
too late. 
However, a further acquaintance with the city reassured us some¬ 
what, for we found all the women wearing the traditional national 
costume. Most of the men also wear native garments but in their 
case the effect was too often spoiled by the addition of a European 
hat or cap. The upper garments of adults of both sexes are usually 
of quite sombre colours, and give to the crowd a monotonous appear¬ 
ance that we had not anticipated. It is true that the under kimono 
(corresponding to the European petticoat) is commonly red, or of 
1 J. H. Leech, “Butterflies of China and Japan,” p. 541, quoting H. Pryer, 
“ Rhopalocera Niphonica,” 1886, p. 4. 
Fig. 6.—Japanese Clog. 
