594 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
AUG. 20 
Jfar Msrara. 
CON DUCTED BY MISS RAY CLARK. 
OUR COLLEGE GIRLS. 
I FA8SKU theui on the thoroughfare, 
Our hundred college ffirhs; 
A wary line of faces fair. 
And Summer robes, and nhbons rare. 
And speohint? lipp, and eyes and hair, 
In treeses, hands and curls. 
And later, ns through porch and aisle 
I saw the brisrbt procession file. 
It lightened, like a living stmle, 
The shadows that unfurls 
The reaches of cathedral rooms. 
T blessed them fort.hnir roey blooms 
*Of cheeli and lip: for noddlnar plumes 
And fans that made their breezy swirls; 
For breaetknot flowers and soft perfumes; 
For brightness in » world of glooms; 
Our bonnle collcg-etrirls! 
Intent they watolied the speaker’s face, 
Onr quiet college sdrlfl; 
And us the irreat thouirhts slew apace 
And bloomed In words, ’twaa good to trace 
The impress of their royal grace 
On youthful brows. The pearls 
Of wisdom sought aud found for them 
Were wasted not. Each ebluing gem 
Was gathered to the diadem 
The spirit wears; and whirls 
Of eloquence that clustered round 
The central stalk of thought profound 
Were grasped of all. But quick rebound 
Cornea when the college father hurls 
The name for which each prize is found. 
How cheer the small hands, round on round ! 
Our generous college girls 
But other gifts the searcher finds 
In these, our college girls: 
Eyes that are set to read the lines 
Of life in hieroglyph, the signs 
Of coming change, the world divines 
But dimly in its whirls. 
Hands that are skilled to turn the keys 
That lock the world's best mysteries; 
Brave, earnest hands, outthrnst to seize 
The rugged husk that curls 
About each corn of truth; that hold 
The hook of snow aud pen of gold 
For nineteenth-century thought, untold 
Upon the passing year that, furls 
Its scroll to-day; true-voiced, true-souled ; 
Their names are on our hea vts enrolled; 
Our noble college girls ! 
-*-*_♦- 
TIGHT LACING, 
This la a subject which bears much comment 
and should be heeded by allwomcD. In consid¬ 
eration of the Importance of this question we 
make the following extract from the Lancet: “A 
verdict was lately returned by a Coroner’s jury 
which la quite as applicable to not a few cases 
of premature death which do not happen to be 
made the subject of medico-legal Inquiry- It Is 
difficult to speak with moderation of the folly of 
tight lacing in view of such facts aa these, espe¬ 
cially as no attention seems ever to be paid to the 
warnings repeated ad nauseam against Irrational 
and unhealthy modes of dress. Physiology does 
not enter into the sphere of the 41 fashions." the 
follies of which are productive of more suffering 
and ill-health than people are willing to concede. 
In spite ol satire on one side and admonition on 
the other, there seems to be but little diminu¬ 
tion in the degree to which these vagaries are 
carried, as may be proved by any one who walks 
abroad during the hight of a London season. Why 
is It that in this matter of "tight lacing” there 
should be such tenacity, for there Is hardly any 
subject that has been so unmercifully and yet so 
necessarily criticised as this 7 There are only two 
possible reasons for its maintenance—the ouc that 
It is indispensable to the present form of female 
attire, and the other that It Is believed to lend 
grace to the wearer. Neither of these contentions 
can seriously he maintained In the face of the 
known evils which follow the practice, hut they 
are at present Ideas so firmly rooted In the female 
mind that their dlslodgmeot is not easily effected. 
Now and then. Indeed, there seems to be an 
attempt to introduce a more rational style of 
dress, but such attempts are rarely successful, 
owing In a great measure to the disposition to 
ridicule new departures which do not harmonize 
with the "mode.” The medical profession has 
never ceased to express Its opinion upon the evils 
of tlght-laolng, being well aware of the derange¬ 
ments for which the practice Is responsible. To 
be effectual, however, suob remonstrances must 
be given not only to those who follow the practice, 
but to those who either tacitly or openly encourage 
it. We are treading, we know, on delicate ground, 
but tt Is time there should be platD Bpeaklng, even 
at the risk of giving offence, for It must be con¬ 
fessed—and It is no disparagement to the fair sex 
to admit it—that so long as men persist In regard¬ 
ing an unnatural deformity as a beautiful object, 
so long will many women do their utmost to 
become "beautiful," no matter how painful the 
ordeal to which they will have to submit. 
A well-known writer upon female dreSa not very 
long fclDce admitted that It was the object of wo¬ 
men so to dress as to render tbemselvea attractive 
to the opposite sex, thereby lollowing out a law 
which obtains throughout animal creation, and of 
which there is no denying the trutb. But the 
same author Bpoke out boldly against the practice 
of tight-lacing, showing that In her opinion, at 
any rate, the practice was not essential lor the 
purpose above stated. In all seriousness, It la a 
pitiful thing that In these dava, when all our 
vouth can obtain antnsight Into the principles of 
physiology. ihere should still prevail a practice 
so tin physiological aa that, of wb'cb we speak. It 
stard-i to reason that long-continued, firm com¬ 
pression of the lower ribs cannot be indulged in 
with impunity. The dorsal, thoracic, and abdom¬ 
inal muscles are rendered feeble from enforced In¬ 
activity, respiration la impeded, circulation la ow¬ 
ned on under greater strain, and the viscera are 
displaced to a remarkable degree. Id the case 
whlcn forma the text of these remarks, not 
only was the liver deeply Indented and displaced 
but the stomach was constructed Into two por¬ 
tions, and both of these effects have orten been 
observed before. The affections attributed to 
tight- laclDg are many and various-some perhaps 
without sufficient ground; but mo9t certainly re¬ 
spiratory, circulatory and digestive derangements 
not to mention difficulties and danger In parturi¬ 
tion, are directly traceable to tlght-laclng. Such 
derangements lead the way to other and graver 
changes; they may cause many ailments which 
render life a misery, or eventually lead to the pre¬ 
mature extinction of life—not perhaps directly, 
but by rendering the organism unable to cope with 
disease, however arising. Once more, then, wo 
urge the female members of the community to 
abandon this fatal practice; Its utilitarian pur¬ 
pose could no doubt be supplied by means at once 
more simple and leas Injurious j and Its mstnetlc 
function exlBts only la the ttHCfc (nation, belDg 
grounded on the false and pervertednotlon that the 
natural contour of the body Is ungraceful, whilst 
the deformed, contracted " waist ” is considered 
beautiful In proportion as Its constriction Is ex¬ 
treme. 
FA8HI0NS 
Soi,id colors are moat fashionable in hosiery. 
White will be rasblonable again. 
“ Dawn " Is a new shade of pale gold. 
Sateens are extensively used this season, which 
la not surprising when such tempting and charm¬ 
ing patterns arc offered. 
Yellow, red and olive green guipure lace has 
appeared. 
Brick-red and olive-green shades prevail among 
the chintz-figured foulards. 
Stylish evening wraps are eastern in texture, 
color and design. 
Pink and red barred zephyr ginghams are made 
up with many pleatlngs edged with black thread 
lace. 
A great deal of " rip-rap" trimming, 1. e., lace 
made of serpentine braid, is used on ginghams 
and linen lawns. 
Bracelets made of old silver medals, linked to¬ 
gether with silver beads, are the fancy or the 
moment. 
The Lucia cape Is one of t^e daintiest of fash¬ 
ionable little mantelets, it unites the coach¬ 
man's cape and a small capuchin hood, and 18 
composed or a variety or material for demi-salson, 
and for long .Summer days. 
Surah petticoats of pale blue, pink, or corn color 
are worn under th In, white evening dresses. The 
underwaist of the white bodice is also of the col¬ 
ored surah, and is cut low in the neck, and with 
short sleeves 
Shoes are now made with low, broad heels, 
placed where heels belong, and not under the cen. 
ter of the foot, which show for all they are. Wo¬ 
men with large pedal extremities are opposed to 
this change, naturally enough. 
Gal hers run riot this season, and we now find 
every article more or less ornamented with them ; 
rir Instance, the new walking dress Is gathered on 
each shoulder, while the latest novelty In night¬ 
dresses is to gather the yoke and cuff Every¬ 
thing In Hubbard form is the leading style, and 
the Hubbard polonaise, Corsage-.Basque, walst- 
bodlee, and pinafore polonaise, ure all the rage 
lor soft fabrics, although we still find that useful 
garment—the polonaise, still worn, also the prin¬ 
cess dress with scarf drapery. 
For ordinary traveling use, when the eolor of 
tbe dress Is not matched, black hats are the favor¬ 
ite selection for old and young. Whatever they 
require In jauntlncss, to be properly becoming to 
a school-girl, they gain from the gipsy shapes 
and fantastic brims of the present modes. 
Among rich fabrics Imported for polonaises Is 
black China crape, embroidered all over In 
black In Oriental designs or pagodas, birds, but¬ 
terflies and the favorite flowers of the East- 
chrysanthemums, peonies, etc. 
White associated with gold, 13 the fancy of the 
moment both In bonnets and In costumes. 
Large linen collars worn with yachting Bulta 
have a wide hem, and Just above, a broad blue or 
red stripe. On Imported collars the color la 
stamped; on designs made here, a colored band 
is inserted at half toe width of the collar. 
The advancing seasou has shown that the pre¬ 
dicted change to large hata Is gradually taking 
place. Each new Importation contains larger 
and more elaborate shapes than the last. 
One or the novelties in belt decoration is the 
fancy lor large bows worn directly in front or a 
little to one side of the belt. They are very 
stylish, and will be much worn during the Sum¬ 
mer. 
Watered sllkB or moires have reappeared, and 
are employed for combination toilettes. Varieties 
which come In delicate colors have large watered 
stripes occurring between stripes of satin. 
Ribbons with mixed colorings—called harlequin 
ribbons—are extensively used now, and the block 
or eheoker-board kinds are equally admired. TOIL 
ottes made of brocaded and plain fabrics combined 
are decorated with knots of brocaded ribbon or 
brocaded silk, doubled. 
Flower and fruit bonnets are composed of 
wire shapes over which tulle or net Is puffed, and 
concealed by a flat wreath either of fruit or of 
flowers, the leaves being laid flat upon ihe crown 
an tbu > conceal! ng the foundation. AH such hats 
are or the capote form. 
Initial pins are among the newest fancies ap¬ 
proved by fashionable young ladles. The first 
name of the young lady la written In silver, each 
letter belDg clearly cut and separate from all the 
others ; the imitation or a running handwriting is 
exceedingly good, and the flourish at the end of 
the name Is turned back and under, forming the 
pin. The device 1s novel and effective, and before 
long one will be able to discover the name of any 
fair damsel one may chance to meet by Blmply 
glancmg at the pin which holds in place the silken 
tie or Is half hidden in the folds of the creamy lace 
scarf. 
Mrs. Elizabeth Peabody, the sister of Mrs. 
Hawthorne, Is In falling health. 
Mrs. Cowdrn Clarke has nearly ready a new 
and revised edition of her concordance to Shakes¬ 
peare’s works. 
Mrs. Garfiri.d has received a gift of beautiful 
glassware from some American manufacturers 
wbo were so unselfish and considerate that they 
sent the ware through another Arm, and would 
not allow their names to be mentioned. 
-- 
NOTE, 
in Issue or July 36, Mary E. Burroughs men- 
tlmed the price of flannel suiting of Blngle width 
at 60 cents; this Is correct, of course, as applying 
to the quality to which she refers but for the ben¬ 
efit of those who are obliged to he extremely eco¬ 
nomical it. may be weu to Btate that an interior, 
yet very good quality In double width can be pur¬ 
chased for 50 cents. 
The Solid SoutU, to a woman, are for Hop Bit¬ 
ters, using them as their only family medicine.— 
A Civ. 
fotrusiir (gtotrorng. 
CONDUCTED BY EMILY MAPLE. 
SODA FOR HEAD ACHE. 
In the Rural of June 25th W. M.. says: “To 
use soda for headache will be making a remark¬ 
able leap toward confirmed dyspepsia." It has 
been In the past a hygienic hobby that soda was 
Injurious to health, even in biscuit, but 1 hold 
that other Ingredients did the mischief and soda 
got the blame, ir you take Into your stomach 
an over-dose of opiates or any other detrimental 
substance, will you not take something to neu¬ 
tralize it 7 Assuredly, yes. Bo, also for exces¬ 
sive acidity of the stomach soda la au antidote, 
neutralizing the acidity, and so likewise tbe acidi¬ 
ty neutralizes tne soda. I have practiced carrying 
a vial of soda In my pocket ror several years for 
the purpose o’ neutralizing the stings of Insects, 
but find its use internally of inestimable value. 
One-eighth of a teaspoonful nan he taken at Inter¬ 
vals of an hour with remarkably good effect In 
most cases of headache, pains In the stomach, at¬ 
tacks of bowel complaint, nausea, etc., etc. I was 
ror a number or years afflicted with that dread 
dyspepsia referred to, and spent dollars tor med¬ 
icines and even had beer, wine aud tobacco pre¬ 
scribed, and I half starved myBelr on hygienic 
diet.. My stomach would not retain food and had 
apparently an indigestible brick In It, which 
would turn over and about, changing Its position. 
1 was working hard at. manuallabor when able, 
but never did 1 rind In stain, and permanent relief 
until I took common baking soda, ami by Its use 
I am entirely cured, and now am not the least 
particular about my diet. I have noticed lime- 
water and milk recommended through the Rural 
for dyspepsia. Are not lime and BOda both alka¬ 
lies and of the same kind 7 I have for years used 
soda myself; given it to my children even when 
infants; recommended It to my neighbors and 
frlendB, and have yet to see the first Injurious ef¬ 
fects from its use. In my judgment the ab¬ 
stinence from the use of soda as a family medl- 
cine Is fast going the same road that the absti¬ 
nence from the use of cold water In cases of fever 
went a number of years ago. J. m. m. 
- * « » — ■ 
DRESS vs. DRAPERY. 
A writer in the London Sanitary Record says 
that one radical mistake we make with regard to 
modern dress la to look upon it as an affair of 
drapery. Let us keep drapery for bed and window 
curtains; to cover statues or lay flgnres; but for 
the dress of women in the crowded, bustling life 
of the nineteenth century, It is totally out of 
place. We want to be clothed, not draped. The 
Idea of beauty, therefore, derived from flowing 
drapery (and this seems to bo the chief one of the 
bo called msthetlc school) Is of no use to us, as not 
applicable to modern dally life. 
Modern dress must learn to gain what beauty It 
can without the aid of superfluous drapery ; from 
the beauty of the form It covers, from Its graceful 
movements, and by discarding tho false and hid¬ 
eous outline which lashion would give It. We 
must also put outside, at least ror the present, 
the Idea that art can Improve nature; for this we 
muBt wait until we have obtained a more correct 
knowledge of the " nature ” we have to improve. 
If not, tho result will be what it always has been, 
the deforming and caricaturing of the figure 
rather than Its Improvement. We are even now 
threatened with the re-lntroductlon of a specimen 
of this false taste. Crinolines are to he worn 
again, for the double purpose of " Improving na¬ 
ture ” by setting a hump on the middle of a 
woman’s back, and of making her carry about a 
frame over which to hang "drapery.” 
DOMESTIC RECIPES. 
Spiced Gingerbread — Excellent. 
One cup of butter, one cup of brown sugar free 
from lumps, one cup of mcltisses, four eggs, 
one cup of sour milk, two teaspoonfuls of 
soda, four cups of sifted flour, a little 
salt, a leaspoontul each of ground cloves and 
cinnamon, a teaspoonful of ginger and a table- 
spoonful of grated orange peel. Mix the salt and 
soda with the flour, Beat the yelks of the eggs, 
then the whites, and then both together. Mix the 
molasses, sour milk and spice together, and cream 
the butter and Bugar. Now drop the butter and 
sugar Into the flour, add the eggs, stir a little, add 
the milk and molasses and stir quickly until a 
smooth mass. Bake In shallow pans In a well- 
heated oven. M rs. K. L. 
Cheese Mixture lor Sandwiches. 
A quarter of a pound of good English cheese, 
grated, the yelks of three hard-boiled eggs, a 
tablespoonful of melted butter, pepper and salt. 
Rub the yelks to a paste with the butter and sea¬ 
soning and work In the cheese. Cut thin slices of 
bread, butter, spread the mixture on evenly, cut 
and place one on the other. 
Rice Meringue Pudding. 
One generous quart of rich, new milk, a small 
cup of raw rice, a cup of sugar, four beaten eggs 
and two spoonfuls of butter, soak the rice In a 
cupful or the milk for two hours, turn Into a farina 
kettle with the rest of the milk and simmer till 
tender. Rub the butter and sugar together, beat 
the eggs light, and mix all with the rice until the 
mixture Is very light. Put all Into a buttered 
baklDg dish and bake 45 minutes in a moderate 
oven. When done, draw to the door of the oven 
and cover with a meringue made of the whites of 
three eggs, a spoonful of powdered sugar and the 
juice or half a lemon. Close the oven and bake 
until delicately browned. Eaten hot or cold. 
Mrs. J. Me. 
Apple Layer Cake. 
Two cups of fine white sugar, one-half cup of 
butter, one-balf cup of corn-starch, one-half cup 
of sweet milk, the whites of six eggs, three cups 
of flour and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
Cream the butter and sugar, add the milk, stir, 
then the corn-starch, and last the whites, beaten 
Btlff, and the flour (with baking powder sifted with 
It). Bake in Jelly-cake tins. 
Filling. 
Beat together one egg, one cup or sugar, and 
grated rind and Juice of one lemon. Into this 
mixture grate three ripe, tart apples. Put at once 
—to preserve color—Into a farina kettle or tin pall 
set within a kettle of boiling water, and stir untU 
It bolls. Let cool before spreading between the 
cakes. 
Lemon Simp*. 
A pound of powdered sugar, a quarter of a 
pound of butter, three beaten eggs, juice of two 
lemons and the grated peel of one, a teaspooeful 
of baking powder and flour enough to mix. Roll 
thin, cut inio rounds and bake Id a quick oven. 
Lemon Extract. 
The yellow rind—noi the white—of eight lemons, 
a quart of white wblsky or brandy. Cut the rind 
Into bits, put Into wide-mouthed bottles aud cover 
with the spirits. Cork and shake frequently for 
two or three weeks. It wlU then be ready for use, 
and will be found superior to most of the lemon 
extract told at the shops. Mary b. 
A Nice Lunch Dish. 
The remains of cold baked or boiled chicken cut 
Into dice; ihe bones and skin put Into a sauce¬ 
pan with a ralnoed onlou and water enough to 
cover. Boll an hour or longer, strain, skim off 
the fat and return to the pan. Thicken with a 
tablespoonful of flour rubbed Bmooth In a half 
cup of cream, season with pepper, salt and minced 
parsley. After It. thickens, put In the chicken and 
take from the Are. Butter a deep dish, strew 
thickly with fine bread crumbs, pour In the chick¬ 
en, cover with line bread crumb3 and break fresh 
eggs carefully over the top. Put a bit of butter 
on each, pepper and salt and bake In a quick oven 
until the whites set. Economy. 
-- 
KEYSTONE WASHER. 
Mrs. V. A. In the Rural of May 14, P. 327, 
Inquires for experience In the use of Keystone 
Washers. 1 used one of the first made of this ma¬ 
chine for seven years ; It Is now worn out and I 
have bought a new one. I find the new one Is 
quite an improvement on the old ; but there is no 
change In the work or principle. To be brief, 1 
would say that the washer Is as good as recom¬ 
mended ; does good work with a great saving of 
water, soap, time, strength and patience, whlcn 
are Items of importance In domestic economy. It 
Is not necessary to have your hands in the water, 
In which case suds can be used aa hot as desired. 
Mrs. G. W. F. 
•-♦ ♦ ♦-- 
QUESTIONS ANSWERED. 
Chocolate Mixture. 
Housekeeper asks how to prepare chocolate to 
put between layer cake. 
Ans.—W hites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth, 
a cup of powdered sugar, a quarter of a pound of 
grated or BCraped chocolate, mixed smooth In a 
tablespoonful of sweet cream, a teaspoonful of 
vanilla. Btlr the sugar Into the whipped whites, 
then the chocolate, btlr all together hard for two 
or three mlnutea before adding the flavoring. The 
cake should be cold before spreading. Reserve a 
little of the mixture ror the top and stir more 
powdered sugar Into it to form a hard Icing. 
Or, to a cup of thin, sweet cream add a cup of 
powdered sugar, a quarter of a pound or grated 
ehooolato and simmer until It thickens. You 
must be very watchful lest. It bum. Take from 
the fire and whip in the beaten yelk of one egg. 
When somewhat cool, flavor with vanilla and 
spread while warm between tho cakes. Do not 
frost the top but strew thickly with powdered 
sugar. 
. -- 
“ My mother drove the paralysis and neuralgia 
all out of her system with Hop Bitters.”—Ed. op- 
wego Sun.— Adv, 
