ri 
Vv\V' 
mm 
HE BUBAL NEW-YORKER. 
At a 
i 
ASCETIC NATURE 
Passion and scrip, and the adorned hours 
Of floral loveliness, hopes jrrowu most sweet, 
And generous patience in t he ripening heat, 
A mother's bosom, a bride's face of flowers— 
Knows Nature aught so fair ? Witness, ye Powers 
Which rule the virgin heart of this retreat 
To rarer issura, ye who render meet. 
Earth, purged and pure, for gracious heavenly dowers! 
The luminous palojatce, the pearl-gray Bky, 
The wave that gravely murmurs meek desires. 
The abashed, yet lit expectance of the whole— 
These and their beauty speak of earthly fires 
Ixing quenched, clear aims, deliberate sanctity— 
O’er the white forehead lo! the aureole. 
nrrE's GAIN. 
“ Now, having gained Life’s gain, how hold it fast ? 
The harder task! because the world is still 
The world, and duys creep slow, and wear the will, 
And Custom, gendering in the heart’s blind waste, 
Brings forth a winged mist, which with no haste 
Upcircllng the steep air, and charged with ill, 
Blots all our shining bights adorable. 
And leaves slain Faith, slain Hope, slam Love the last” 
O shallow lore of life! He w ho hath won 
Life’s gain doth hold naught fast, who could hold all, 
Holden himself of strong, immortal Powers. 
The Stars accept him; for his sake the Sun 
Has sworn in Heaven an oath memorial. 
Around his feet 6toop the obsequious Hours. 
* « » 
FASHION. 
Nkw York, May, 1STT. 
The excessive use of red and yellow has again 
brought brunettes to the front. As for the past 
ten years black hair has been completely dis¬ 
carded, It Is but Just thut there should now be 
some opportunity afforded those who wish to re¬ 
tain the original color ol the hair to bo lu the 
fashion. Were It not for tilts consideration, there 
would be but little advantage m the use of these 
colors. The red is of an orange tint, and the yel¬ 
low Is on t he carmine. These colors are very try¬ 
ing, and must he used with great care, lu order 
to avoid their liavl ng a common appearance. The 
new high colors are very conspicuous In bonnets. 
One thing to ho not ed Is that, these bonnets are 
no longer made to match suits throughout. It Is 
not now necessary that a brown costume must 
lie worn with a brown bonnet; If there Is only 
the slightest suggestion or the color of the dress 
lu a flower or feather, a bow or piping, In the 
bonnet, It Is enough, and this makes It, easy for 
one bonnet to servo for several dresses, since foiu- 
or live colors are now used in each bonnet. One 
conspicuous feature Is the revival of velvet and 
of velvet ribbons for trimming the line Tuscan 
straws and chips. This rich velvet ribbon Is satin 
on the other side, and Instead of being merely the 
black velvet so long used, It Is in the new, delicate 
colors, such as tlllcul, buttercup, old gold, olive, 
maize, Holbel,ii green, moonlight blue, pink, coral, 
mandrill, and Vesuvius. The bonnet is first faced 
or lined with velvet, and the ribbon la put around 
the crown In very plain bands, with loops below. 
Short ostrich tips, flower clusters, and Renais¬ 
sance polished gilt brooches, bees, or butterflies 
are the trimmings. Vesuvius velvet facings are 
used with old gold, maize, and other yellow tints; 
pulc-bluo velvet, linings are used with bonnets 
trimmed wit h Holbein green velvet; and these 
colors are often reserved, as the olive and Ilolbclu 
green velvets arc well associated with maize sat¬ 
ins, or with shaded yellow tulips. For the Interi¬ 
ors of bonnets there are also pulling of velvet and 
knotted hands. Satin and gros grain are shirred 
for the Inside trimmings. 
hands. Others have the outside trimmed with 
gauze ribbon In rich India colors laid over loops oi 
pale blue satin. New Devonshire bats of white 
chips are imported with the crown quite separate 
from the brim, and when being trimmed, the left 
side of the brim Is placed nearly up to t he top of 
the crown, giving a one-filth d effect, and uuder- 
The new round hats are called the Paul and 
Virginia. They are turned up on one side far 
toward the back aDd have high crowns; are or 
black or brown chip, trimmed with a band or sat in 
and of velvet around the crown; loops of aatlu 
cover the turned-up side, and short ostrich plumes 
are held by colored pearl buckles Or antique gold 
slides. Green aDd yellow tinted chips and straw 
round hats arc shown In similar shapes, trimmed 
with satin and feathers of the same color, and 
contrasting colors In flowers. 
Very fanciful mile round hats arc or navy blue 
straw, with white Egyptian gauze veils, and their 
only trimming fine long-looped bows on the crown, 
made of satin ribbon that Is cardinal on one side 
and blue on the other. Alsaclan bows are very 
much used on the picturesque Alsaclan and Wat¬ 
teau hats of Leghorn, chip, or Tuscan straw. 
TlicBe have broad brims, lined with pule blue or 
pink satin, edged with Valenciennes lace bent In 
curves on the side, and under this soft brim In 
front Is a great Alsaclan bow to match the lining; 
on the outside Is a rose wreath around the crown, 
or a great cluster of plug crushed roses, and satin 
4834 
neath the brim are roses without foliage, Old gold 
satin loops, or pale blue rosettes; a green vine 
wreath and drooping ribbons trim the crown. 
Lovely split straw lints are caught up on one side 
with leathers, some of which turn toward the 
front, and others toward the back. Another 
novelty is that of alternating gilt braid with each 
braid of black or white chip in round hats, null 
also la bonnets. 
New net. veils are In mask shape, with straw- 
colored dots and border of straw fringe. White 
net veils with dots of black, or black dotted with 
white, are much worn. The fancy for dressy veils 
remains for white tulle passed over the face, 
lapped behind the bonnet, and tied under the chin 
In a large soft. now. 
Styles develop In a day and every day; materi¬ 
als abound on every side, and are novel and 
handsome, and trimmings are what the lnsplra- 
tlonists choose to make of them. Whoever cares 
to consider the foundation of all fashion, so t'ar as 
shapes arc concerned, however, will llncl that 
unity of design Is the prominent, point; and 
whether Ills basque, polonaise, or Princesse, the 
model couiorrns to emo and the same principle. 
Possibly It may be called the oblong style which 
leads at present. Just as a few years ago, breadth 
and even rotundity were desirable effects to which 
starched skirts and skeleton hoops lent their aid. 
At the head of the oblong stylo or dress stands 
the l'rlnceaso form, with all unnecessary width 
so well excluded that the tln.-ss is chiefly admired 
for Its design, and for Its adaptation to all varie¬ 
ties of material. As there arc several models of 
the Prln< esse dress, certain fabrics are of course 
more properly adapted to oue than to another 
form. As It is necessuT, In presenting the Illus¬ 
tration, togiveit unencumbered with decorations, 
lu order to show the parts or which It is composed, 
the matter of trimming the Princesse is more 
Important than might be supposed. Garnitures 
wblcb set out. from the figure are not well adapted 
to the design, but plastrons, with silk facings, 
galloons, Ac., are excellent, as also are borderlngs 
of flue side pleating, lace, fringe Ac. 
Combinations or color and material appear In 
the long gores of Princesse dresses as well as In 
sleeves, collars, cuffs, and pockets, and irregular¬ 
ity in the use of color Is as popular as irregular 
draping. 
This month the handsome Croton costume Is 
exhibited In summer fabrics, and is so completely 
satisfactory that the stylo may ho considered as 
great a success as any other. As wblLe muslins 
of every kind—particularly those which are sheer 
and dotted, or figured -are much favored this sea¬ 
son ; the Breton model Is timely, and nothing 
could be more appropriate. The most stylish po¬ 
lonaises are plain, and almost copied from the 
Pi tnceaee dress. The modes In which the mate- 
rluLi of a costume may be employed In trimming 
the same, have become&lmost reduced to box and 
side-pleating, ror there Is scarcely a skirt garni¬ 
ture which docs not exhibit a disposition of one 
or the other, although fringes, galloons, etc., may 
be added. 
Embroidery—one or the most expensive varie¬ 
ties of trimming—is coming into favor more and 
more. Garlands or leaves and grasses are favor¬ 
ite patterns. Also Galloons are of infinite variety 
this spring; some are of silk and cashmere, others 
of silk and Batin, tho latter appearing lu mate- 
lasso patterns; and others still, arc of Jacquard 
varieties, with a mohair back and silk figures 
placed upon the surface. There are, for percale 
and cambric drosses, bands of white cambric with 
geometrical or flower designs In Turkey red, blue; 
etc. New fringes are extremely rich aud wide, 
headings arc deep or narrow, as may be preferred. 
Buttons are coming into greater prominence, 
aud sizes its large us a quarter-dollar are seen on 
costumes or wool, trimmed with galloon. Such 
extremes arc, however, used only tn drapery 
forms, and not upon the body of a garment to 
close it. Porcelain buttons have bees aud flowers 
In black upon their surfaces, and composition 
kinds are shaded, mottled, cross-burred and plant¬ 
ed in one or two colors. Crochet buttons accom¬ 
pany fringes, passementeries, ole., and are goner 
ally used in moderate sizes upon costumes. Motli- 
er-of-poarl buttons, placed in rows ot from six to 
eight, the edges lapping upon each other, trim 
tlie pockets, cuffs and rovers collarettes of Breton 
basques, in a novel and striking manner. 
The Illustrations lu t his number are a Princesse 
and Breton Jacket; the numbers will be a guide 
to those wishing the patterns. 
®I)c j$toni-®fllfr, 
THE SECRET CHAMBER. 
CHARTER 111. 
[Continued from page 280. | 
Lindores never could tell whether It was that 
himself grew faint, and that the dimness of 
swooning came into his eyes after this violence 
and strain of emotion, or It It, was Ills spell that 
worked. But there was an Instantaneous change. 
Everything -.wain around him for t,he moment, a 
giddiness aud blindness seized lilm, and ho saw 
nothing but the vague outlines of the room, 
empty as when ho entered It. But gradually his 
consciousness came hack, and he found himself 
standing on the same spot as before-, clutching 
the old sword, and gradually, as though lu a dream 
recognized tho same figure emerging out of the 
mist which—was it. solely In his own eyes7—had 
enveloped everything. But It was no longer In 
the same attitude. The bauds which had been 
stretched out to him were busy now with some of 
the strange Instruments on tho table, moving 
about, now In the action of writing, now as If 
managing the keys of a telegraph. 
lindores felt, that hts brain was all a twist and 
set wrong; but he was still a human being of his 
Century. lie thought of the telegraph with n 
keen thrill of curiosity In the midslot his reviving 
sensations. What communication was this which 
was going on before his eyes? The magician 
worked on. lie had his face turned toward his 
victim, but his hands moved with unceasing 
activity. And IJndores, as he grew accustomed 
to the position, began to weary—to feel Uko a 
neglected suitor waiting tor a n audience. To be 
wound up lo such a strain of feeling, then left to 
wait, was intolerable; impatience seized upon 
him. What circumstances can exist, however 
horrible, In wblcb a human being will not feel 
Impatience? lie made a great many efforts to 
speak be tore ho could succeed. It seemed to him 
that his body fell more fear than ho did—that Ills 
muscles were contracted, his throat parched, Ills 
tongue refusing Its office, although Ms nflnd was 
“ More like that you are a delusion. Y r ou have 
lasted but one-and-twenty years, and I—for cen¬ 
turies,” 
“How? For centuries—and why? Answer 
me—are you man or demon?” cried Lindores, 
tearing the words, as ho felt, out. of his own 
t.h root. “ A re you 11 vi ng or dead ? ” 
The magician looke 1 at, him wit h tlio same In¬ 
tense gaze as before. “ Be oil my side and you 
shall know everything, Lindores. i want one of 
my own race. Others I could have in plenty; but 
I want you. A Randolph, i Randolph! and you. 
Dead! do I seem dead! You shall have every¬ 
thing -more than dreams can give- If you will be 
on my sldo. ’’ 
Can he give what lie has not? was the thought 
that ran through tho mind of Lindores. But ho 
could not speak It. Something that choked and 
stifled Mm was In his throat. 
unaffected and undismayed. At last lie found sn 
utterance In spite oi all resistance of his flesh and 
blood, 
"Who are you?” he said hoarsely—'* You that 
live here und oppress this house?” 
The vision raised its eyes full upon him, with 
again that strange shadow of a smile, mocking 
yet not unkind. “Do you remember me,” he 
said, “ on your Journey here ?” 
“ That was—a delusion.” The young man gasp¬ 
ed for breath. 
4853 
“Can I give what I have not? 1 have every¬ 
thing—power, the one tiling worth having; and 
you shall have more than power, for you are 
young -my son ! lindores!” 
To argue was natural, and gave tho young man 
strength, "is this life,” lie said, “hero? Whatls 
all your power worth—here ? To sit for ages, and 
make a race unhappy?” 
A momentary convulsion came across the still 
face. " You scorn me,” he cried, with an appear¬ 
ance ol’ emotion, “ because you do not understand 
how I move the world. Power I "Us more than 
fancy can grasp. And you shall have It!” said 
tne wizard, with what; looked Uko a show of en¬ 
thusiasm. Ilo seemed to come nearer, to grow 
larger. He put forth Ills hand again, tills time so 
close that It seemed Impossible to escape. Aud a 
crowd of wishes seemed lo rush upon tho mind ot 
Undorss. What barm to try u this might be 
true l to try what it meant -perhaps nothing 
—delusions, vain show, and then there could be 
no harm; or perhaps more was knowledge to be 
had, which was power. Try, try. try! the air 
bussed about him. The room seemed full of voices 
urging him. Ills bodily frame rose into a tremen¬ 
dous whin or excitement, ms veins seemed to 
swell to bursting, Ills lips seemed to force a “yes,’’ 
In spite of him, quivering as they came apart. The 
hiss of the « seemed m his ears, lie changed It, 
Into the name which was a spell too, and cried, 
“Help me, God!” not knowing why. 
Then there came another pause—he felt as if ho 
had been dropped from something that had held 
him, and had fallen, and was faint. Tho excite¬ 
ment had been more than he could bear. Once 
more everything swum around him, and he did 
not know where he was. Had he escaped alto¬ 
gether ? was the first waking wonder of conscious¬ 
ness In his mind. But when lift could think and 
see ugalu, he was still In the same spot, sur¬ 
rounded by t he old curtains and t he curved panels, 
but, alone, lie felt, loo, that he was able to move, 
but the strangest dual consciousness was In lilm 
throughout all the refit, or his trial. Ills body felt 
to him as a frightened horse feels to ft traveler at 
night—a thing separate from him, more fright¬ 
ened than he la —starting aside at every step, 
seeing more than Its master. Ills limbs shook 
with fear and weakness, almost refusing to obey 
tho action of Ills will, t rembling under him with 
Jerks aside when he compelled himself to move* 
The hair stood upright, on hts head—every linger 
trembled as with palsy—Ills lips, Ills eyelids, 
quivered with nervous agitation. But his rnlnd 
was strong, stimulated to a desperate calm. He 
dragged himself round tho room, he crossed the 
very spot where the magician had been -all was 
vacant, silent, clear. Had he vanquished the 
enemy? This thought came into Ills mind with 
an Involuntary triumph. The old strain of feel¬ 
ing came back. Such effects might, bo produced, 
perhaps, only by imagination, by excitement, by 
delusion. Lindores looked up, by a sud¬ 
den attraction, ho could not. tell wlmt, 
and the blood suddenly froze In bis veins, 
Sgi Dial had been so boiling and ferment- 
Ing. Nwno one was looking at him from 
the old mirror on t he wall. A face not 
^ 4 human and life-like, like that or theic- 
habitant of this place, but ghostly u nd 
terrible, like one of the dead; and v\ lille 
he looked, a crowd of other faces came 
behind, all looking at lilm, some mournfully, some 
with a menace In their terrible eyes. The mirror 
did not change, but within Its small, dim space 
seemed to contain an Innumerable company, 
crowded above and below, all with one gaze at 
him. His lips dropped apart with a gasp of hor¬ 
ror. More and more and more ! He was standing 
close by the table when this crowd came. Then, 
all at once, there was laid upon him a cold hand. 
He turned. Close to his side brushing him, with 
ills robe, holding him fast by the arm, sat Earl 
