<74 
BUBAL NEW-YORKER SUPPLEMENT. 
SEPT.<§ 
LAXTON’S PROLIFIC. 
Juno 25. First picking. Prolific—i. e., it is 
correctly named which, as to peas, is worthy of 
note. It is not sweet or specially desirable. 
WAITE’S C11UUTAO08. 
May 25. First to bloom. June 2. Twenty 
inches high. First picking same as Carter’s 
First Crop. Peas largo, flattening one another, 
four or five to a thick pod. June 19, prolific, 
very well filled. June 23, pods hard—seeds 
not good, thick-Blduned and tough. June 25. 
Still a few. 
’KENTISH INVICTA. 
May 29. In bloom. Juno 14, first picking. 
Two feet. Narrow, flat pods averaging four 
peas. Uniform size, woll filled—bluish-green 
color. The flavor is no bettor than that of the 
whiter varieties. June 25, all gone. 
MCLilAN'H LITTLE OEM. 
June 2. One foot in bloom. Juno 17, first 
picking. Angular, pointed pods, not uniform in 
sizo. Strong viuos. Juno 19, fifteen inches 
high. Very large peas (seeds), three or four to a 
pod. June 23. Peas of a light bright-green 
color, refreshing and appetizing to look upon. 
Soft, tender, deoidedly sweet and delicious. June 
25. Some still. For an oarly pea, of such a 
higkt that it does not absolutely require brush¬ 
ing ; for excellence in quality und fruitfulness, 
there is not one in the twenty-seven varieties 
about whioli wo are writing, that surpasses this. 
OAETEU'S EXTRA EARLY PREMIUM OEM. 
June 2. One foot in bloom—heavy stems. Pods 
flattish, rather short, well-tilled with very large 
peas. Irregular in sizo of pods, peas and ma¬ 
turing. Though the stems are thick they seem 
to bo weak, so that, though but fifteen inches high 
they require support. Juno 19, fair picking. 
Peas are hard, averaging four and a half to a 
pod, notably deficient in flavor. 
molean’s blue peter. 
Juno 2. In bloom, fifteen inches.?;June 18, 
prolific, first picking. Large, broad, airy pods— 
pens of a dull green, hard, tasteless. 
MCLEAN’S ADVANCER. 
June 2. Fifteen inches in bloom. July 1st, 
two feet, medium sized pod, well filled—first 
pioking. Prolific, fair quality. 
NAPOLEON. 
June 2. Two feet, in bloom. Vines bloom all 
over, though not remarkably prolific. July 15. 
Vines less than three feet. Were not separately 
tried as to flavor. 
PEABODY. 
June 2. Ten inches, in bloom. This is quite 
prolific, of the late Tom Thumb order. Poor 
flavor—of no special account. 
EUGENIE. 
June 2. Fifteen inches, in bloom Heavy 
stems, large flowerB. Juuo 26, first picking— 
fruitful, very. Pods not well filled. It may bo 
said of these peas that they melt in the mouth. 
Largo, light green, obloug, extremely tender. 
As good as any other up to this time. 
bishop's long podded dwarf. 
June 10. In bloom, fifteen inches high, varia¬ 
ble. Peas as if mixed, some being wide, fiat- 
tish—others narrow and thick. Peas sweet and 
quite tender. July 2, first pioking. 
CHAMPION OP ENGLAND. 
Juno 2. Two fuel high. June 12, blooming. 
J uno 27, first picking. Prolific, though the vines 
do not bear in every part, as do such varieties as 
Eugenio, Napoleon, Dan O’ltourke and others. 
Peas (seeds) largo, oblong, pale green color. 
Pods woll filled. July 20. A few are still green 
from later flowers, but the pods are not filled 
and the peas are small and of many sizes. We 
fear to spoak disparagingly of this old variety 
that is generally held in such high esteem. In 
fruitfulnosB and flavor, however, there are seve¬ 
ral of tho later peas which we prefer. About 
four feet high. 
laxton’s superlative. 
Juno 2 Twenty inches. June 27, first picking. 
Pods superlatively puffy and large—peas irreg¬ 
ular, comparatively small, dark green. July 20. 
Vines still in bloom. 
Labor write marrowfat. 
Very large loaves. July 16, good pioking. 
Very late. Pods largo, well filled, large seeds— 
not sweet. Five feet, not prolific. 
DWARF SUGAR. 
June 2. First bloom, ten inches. July 4, first 
picking, vines three feet—tender pods. 
NEW WRINKLED SUGAR. 
July 16. Good picking. Very distinct—leaves 
but one-third the size of others. Small seeds, 
but many in a pod—often nine. July 17, good 
picking. Not sweet but mealy. Tender pods. 
TALL SUGAR. 
Heavy stems, five feet. Extremely tender pods 
which are curled and shapeless. Tho peas fill 
but half the pods, the other half is flat. The 
pod fits the seed so that it resembles a loment 
more than a legume. Hard to shell. Tbe pods 
are Baid to be edible—we did not try them. Nei¬ 
ther very sweet nor tender. These sugar peas, 
if cooked somewhat dry and left to burn a little, 
have quite the flavor of mushrooms. Good pick¬ 
ing, July 2. Still picking from this variety, 
July 20. 
BLAOK ETED MARROWFAT. 
Juno 30. First picking. Medium size pods, 
well filled. Not Bhowy. July 4, best picking. Not 
sweet or particularly tender—bright green. Vines 
about four feet. 
MCLEAN’S BEST OF ALL. 
The seeds of this were not good and but few 
germinated. July 20—Immense peas, Bix or 
seven in shortish pods. The seeds pressed into 
obloug shapes. 
DWARF BLUE IMPERIAL. 
June 12. In bloom, two feet high. July 2, 
few in pod ; large, tender, mealy. 
BRITISH QUEEN. 
June 2. Fifteen inches. July 16, about the 
tallest viuos, large picking. Very large seeds. 
Itathor thick-skinned, much wrinkled; tender, 
sweet j very prolific. Pods broad, medium 
leugth, but full as a tick. July 20, still green 
for pioking. J nicy, even when half ripe. Five 
feet, vigorous. 
CARTER’S SURPRISE. 
Seed did not geriniunte. 
CONCLUSIONS. 
Philadelphia was fairly the earliest of tho 
twenty-seven varieties. If, therefore, we were 
to cultivate peas for market and make earlinoss 
a specialty, we should select it in preference to 
Any of the others. If two or three days mode 
little difference in the market price, we should 
select Early Dan O'Rourke in preference to 
Philadelphia. If a good early market variety 
were desired, without special reference to the 
earliest, Lixtoa’s Alpha would be our choice. 
If for home use, quality were & first considera¬ 
tion and earliness a second, we should cultivate 
McLean’s Little Gem. Botweon this aud Phila¬ 
delphia, it will bo seen there is juBt seven days' 
difference. If space wore limited and we desired 
the earliest pea that oould be raised with the 
least trouble, Tom Thumb would bo our selection. 
For au intermediate variety, Eugenie proved in 
all important characteristics, the most desirable. 
Bishop’s Long Podded D varf for a dwarf variety 
is very good. For the latest, we should choose 
British Queen. 
REMARKS. 
There is a good deal of difference in opinion as 
to whether it pays to brush pea vines which at¬ 
tain only a medium bight. Brush, if properly 
stuok, prevents the vines from matting togeth¬ 
er—from trailiug iu tho dust or mud, as may 
bo—from being spattered with mud by heavy 
rains. It secures a tidy, well-kept appearance to 
the rows, aud renders it far less tedious to pick 
them. The vines also will be more prolific and 
they will boar longer than when entangled upon 
tho ground aud unavoidably trodden upon. Even 
Tom Thumb varieties are thus improved bv 
having upright supports. It is true, however, 
that brushing involves a considerable outlay of 
labor and time, so that whore largo areas are 
planted, the expediency of brushing must be 
determined by the cultivator’s taste and means. 
Speaking for ourselves, as regards limited gar¬ 
den culture, we greatly prefer the double-row 
system of planting, and to brush between the 
rows most effectually. Most persons plant peas 
a week or so apart for succession. But it will be 
seen that by planting tbe early, intermediate and 
late varieties at the same time, we may be sup¬ 
plied without interruption, for six weeks, with 
peas iu larger quantity from the 6ame number 
of vines, aud of a better quality tbm by later 
sowings, which are generally harmed by exces¬ 
sive heat or drought. 
We would not wish to be considered as attach¬ 
ing undue value to such experiments as the 
above. Their results do but serve to emphasize 
what is already generally kuowu, though still 
valuable to the few who are in search of such 
information aud know not exactly where to find 
it. AU real progress in hortioultnre, as in every 
other art or science, is gained only by patient 
industry and careful observation. It ocoasioo- 
aUy happens, however, that the brightest light 
gleams out from experiments that iu the begin¬ 
ning promised the least. 
SPRING BULBS. 
Year alter year for many years, we have given 
instructions as to the culture of Hyacinths, Tu¬ 
lips, Crocuses, Crown Imperials, etc., aud now 
is the time to repeat those instructions, so that 
our readers who purpose establishing beds or 
borders of those delights of tho spring garden, 
may be guided accordingly if they choose. 
But, kind friends, we think we can serve you 
better than by devoting two columns to this 
thrice-told tale. Oar columns are fiUed with 
other, and to the majority of our readers, more 
interesting matter. Lot us please both—the 
majority by omitting the details of spring bulb 
culture, aud the minority by referring them to 
the Fall catalogues of our seedsmen advertised 
in our columns and iu those of all horticultural 
periodicals at tins season of the year. These 
catalogues with more explicit details than we 
should give, can bo had for the asking, and will 
supply every item of information needed. 
Let us, however, urge those who can just as 
well as not afford it, to make a selection of Hy¬ 
acinths and Tulips at least—if not of both, then 
of Tulips which, if we could have but one kind, 
we prefer. They do not degenerate from season 
to season, as does the Hyacinth, and their beauty 
is far less formal and more varied. 
It seems to us, indeed, that a needless myBtery 
is thrown about spring bulb culture, the prepar¬ 
ation of the ground, distance apart and so forth. 
Upon second thought, permit us to change our 
mind. Wo will give instructions: 
First—Send to a good seedsman for a proper 
selection of bulbs. 
Second—Lot the soil be moderately rich and 
loose to the depth of at least one foot. 
Third—Plant the bulbs six inches deep. 
Fourth—Cover them up. 
Fifth—"The thing is done.” 
- 
WINTERING PLANTS. 
BY WILLIAM FALCONER, BOTANIC GARDENS, 
CAMBRIDGE. 
It is not when hunger presses the farmer that 
he sows his corn for bread, no more should it 
be when frost appears that we should consider 
where and how we are to winter our tender 
plants. Therefore is it that I believe this head¬ 
ing to be a timely one, and in having a plaoe for 
everything and everything iu its place—fore¬ 
warned and forearmed—when frost oomes we are 
not likely to be caught a-napping. 
As I cannot in one chapter modify my subjoot 
to suit all olaeoos, 1 will endeavor to confine these 
remarks to the interests of farmers and amateurs 
generally, who have no greenhouses, but never¬ 
theless desire, have, love and enjoy, beautiful 
gardens. 
Just now everything is a-glow, growing ram¬ 
pantly aud blooming profusely; but we cannot 
long expect suoh uusoathed luxuriance, conse¬ 
quently, whore young stock is more desirable 
than old, as in the case of Pelargoniums, Helio¬ 
tropes, Lantanas, Coleuses, Achyranthuses, Alter- 
nautheras, and the like, it is advisable to secure 
at once a fresh stock from enttings, aud got 
thorn woll-rootod and sturdy before oold wea¬ 
ther sets iu. 
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 
Take a fresh, stubby and healthy shoot of a 
Pelargonium, Ageratum or Heliotrope, and with 
a sharp knife cat it in two, under but near to the 
third to fifth Joint, and also cut off two to four 
of the lower leaves, and the cutting is complete. 
Get cleanly washed pots, and fill them one-third 
with potsherds or small brickbats, over which 
place a layer of moss, rough, decayed leaves, or 
almost any other porous substauce that will 
prevent the earth mixing with the drainage aud 
readily admit the percolation of the water. Then 
till to within half au inch of the brim with sandy 
soil for tho oommuutr plants, and pure sand for 
the finer, and water through a fine water-pot 
rose, so as to firmly settle the earth before in¬ 
serting tho cuttings. Into these pots of earth 
dibble the onttings— from 10 to 20, in a 6-inch pot, 
but iu tho event of unusually strong ones, fewer 
will bo hotter—aud plooo them in a somewhat 
shady uook for a time, taking care to oover them 
overhead from heavy rains and drip. When 
satisfied that the cuttings are rooted, they may 
be gradually aud ultimately fully exposed. 
Many people strike cuttings in the open bor¬ 
der and lift them and pot them to store in win¬ 
ter; but 1 could never see the philosophy or 
economy of such practice. All plants intended 
to be grown in pots during winter will survive 
doubly well if pot-bound—that is, with their 
pots crammed full of roots—than newly potted, 
and in the case of tLoso to lie wintered in dwell¬ 
ing-houses or cellars, this rule is much more 
forcible. Soma ladies have an insatiable desire 
to root onttings in bottles of water, aud it may 
be nice enough amusement, but really it is bad 
practice. 1'ota full of cuttings had better bo 
wintered in the dwelling house, aud juBt given 
enough water to keop the plants from shrivel¬ 
ing, say, between November aud early February, 
when the supply may be gradually increased. 
Some time in February or March, the cuttings 
may be potted singly into small pots or two or 
three into larger ones, or they may be planted 
two to three inches apart in shallow boxes, and 
thus kept till " bedding-out” time. 
The following common plants, as cuttings, 
can be wintered successfully in a kitchen, sitting- 
room, or parlor: Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, 
Ageratum, Salvias, Stevia6, Abutilons, Guapha- 
liums, variegated Solano ms, Coleuses, Alternan- 
theras (often diflioult), Achyranthuses, double- 
flowering Petunias, Lemon-Boonted Verbena 
( Lippia ), Fuchsias, Lautanas, etc. A tempera¬ 
ture above tho freezing point is necessary, and 
in the event of expected hard frost by night, it is 
best to remove the plants from the windows to 
a oorner of the room and spread a dry cloth over 
them. 
PROPAGATION BY SEEDS. 
Verbenas, Vincas, Petunias, Golden Feather, 
Feverfew, Gaura Lindheimeri, Nierembergia 
gracilis, and some other plants that come so well 
and easily by seeds, should be propagated in this 
way, as it saves a deal of trouble and care. Sown 
In pots or pans of light sandy soil in early 
spring, and the pots placed iu a hot-bed, or in 
the absence of that just treated as is done in 
raising Tomato or early Celery plants in the 
house, they will be seasonable auxiliaries in the 
summer flower garden. 
WINTERING PLANTS IN THE HOUSE. 
In addition to tho nurslings for next summer’s 
flower garden, our windows are often full enough 
of "house” plants, as Calla Lilies, Artillery 
Plants, Oxalisos, Bouvardias, Pinks, English 
Violets, Begonias, Camellias, Azaleas, Wax 
Plant (Ilova carnosa), Mother of Thousands 
(Saxifrage sarinentoBa), Peperoraias, some old- 
stotnmed Pelargoniums, a few bulbous plants, 
Ferns, and a drapery of Mignonette Vine or 
" Sinilax.” All those that are blooming or grow¬ 
ing freely should got moderately free libations, 
Oven at Christmas, but Begonias, Peperomias, 
and other tbick-loaved plants had better bo kept 
on the dry side. Actively growing plants too, 
should be nearer the light than tho more dor¬ 
mant subjects, aud in the case of Camellias, 
Azaleas, Orange trees, Myrtles, Dapbnos and 
other evergreen sliruba, they should never know 
drought, far less be kept sodden. Gladioluses, 
Tuberoses, Tigridfas, and some other bulbs, had 
better be cared for iu a drawer or cupboard in 
the house than in the usual place —tlio collar. 
WINTERING PLANTS IN THE CELLAR. 
Nearly all fanners and amateurs, in tbe North¬ 
ern States at any rate, have cellars, and a good 
cellar is a valuable adjunct, to a oomely garden. 
Main points are dryness aud if possible, airiness. 
In a good cellar we can keep onr Century plants, 
Oleanders and Cactuses, from Novoinber till 
May; and there too. our Cannas, Caladiums (the 
groon-leaved section), Dahlias, Crape Myrtles 
and Fuchsias. Should frost be likely to pene¬ 
trate, we can cover up with dry hay or straw, 
just as wo would iu tho caBe of potatoes or ap¬ 
ples. Straw spread over the leaves of the Cen¬ 
tury Plants won't hurt them a bit. Hollies, 
English Yews, Camellias and other somewhat 
tender evergreens, if established in pots, can 
too, be safely wintered in a dry, airy cellar, even 
with no straw covering over their branohes, but 
their roots had better be protected by placing 
the pots somewhat closely together and packing 
marsh hay or straw, or leaves between them, or 
even plunging the pots over the brim in dry 
sand, sawdust, or earth. If these plants be uot 
in pots, but instead lifted from the garden with 
a good ball of earth about their roots, they can 
bo successfully wintered in the cellar, by plant¬ 
ing them rather closely in a sand or earth bed, 
and mulching with dry hay. 
WINTERING PLANTS IN A CGLD PIT. 
A cold pit as wintor-quarters is better than a 
collar for some plants, but a cramped-up little 
place is worse than useless. The length, breadth 
and depth of the pit should be guided by the 
the kinds, sizo and number of the plants to be 
wintered in it, but 1 would advise 3 to 6 feet 
deep, 4 to 6 feet wide—length of sash and in 
length, from one to any number of sashes. 
I can do no better than describe a cold pit we 
have here, and which is necessarily large, but 
any amateur can modify the dimensions to suit 
circumstances: Well, our pit is 51 feet (17 three- 
feet wide sashes) long, 6 feet wide (sashes 6 feet 
in length), 6 feet deep at front aud 6 foot 8 inch¬ 
es at back: boxed up inside with rough boards, 
thoroughly underdrained, so that no water can 
collect or remain in it; rises some 12 inches 
above ground, and this rise is banked round 
with coal ashes to keep out frost; and within is 
12 inches in depth of good light soil, in which to 
heel in the plants that are herein wintered. 
Last winter the covering was ordiuary single 
sashes, over which in frosty weather, we put 
wooden abutters made of % inch thick yellow 
pine; but if we had had them to spare, we would 
have used straw mats between the sashes and 
shutters. 
With very few exceptions we merely lift the 
plants from the garden towards tho middle or 
end of November, just before there is danger of 
the ground being frost-bound, and heel them in 
closely in the soil of this pit, laying obliquely or 
nearly on their sides, such kiuds as are too tall 
to remain erect. Plauts of all sizes from the 
foot-high Aspidistras to the eleven-feet Blue Gum 
trees, are stored iu here together, but of course 
we try and keep tho smaller ones by themselvcB, 
aud thus prevent them from damping or being 
bleached. We endeavor to store on a dry day 
and pack the soil firmly about the roots, and 
from storing time till putting-out time, we don’t 
